wich is the better street/strip turbo?

Green rocks the casbah!

The green is a lot more HP/$, but I think that the SR50 spools a little earlier. If you are truely looking for a "drag" turbo, then these are probably both a little too small for an all-out "drag" setup on a 2.5l

I would imagine that the green would make about 25HP more than a SR50 on equal setups, but nobody has any data to prove this. True compressor/turbine maps are very hard to come by for both of these turbos.


SR50 is ball bearing
SR50 has a true Garrett GT30 wheel from what most people conclude
SR50 has a small custom exhaust side in the 17.5 size, and not much has been reported on the larger 20size. The 20 should make more HP (around 425whp with the 17.5 around 400whp to my guesstimate)
SR50 has a Garrett compressor side
SR50 is $1900
SR50 made 375whp on a STI (100oct) but with emanage (I would expect a bit more with Utec or stand alone) this was on a dyno dynamics I think (non dyno jet at least)

Green has a true Garrett compressor side
Green has a mitsu based hot side
Not sure what wheel is on the green (maybe a true Garrett wheel)
Green has made 450WHP on built 2.0l Subarus (race gas, dynojet)
Green is journal bearing
Green is $1300??(estimate)

Both are fairly good turbos, I have a SR50 and I would have probaly got a green if they were available at the time I bought my SR50. Green is just so much cheaper and just as good, if not better. Green has been proven, but the SR50 has never had "great" tuning on a car that was in "great" condition (ie boost leaks, piggy back EMS, stock IC, low boost). I expect someone to break 400whp (crosses fingers) with an SR50 sooner or later, but we will see if it can produce some HP at higher boost.

Both turbos come alive at 20+ psi so expect to have FMIC and race gas/water injection to get there.


Hopefully Garett (Worldone) will get his setup dynoed soon. He has a green with excellent tuning and I don't see any reason why he shouldn't be 400+whp

If Phil can get around to tuning my car soon, Garett's car and mine could be a good comparison.

From a spoolability stand point the SR50 will defineately be more of a streetable/transitional turbo. But while it's capable of making nice power on the top, it simply will not compare to the green. Having seen/tuned both on a 2.5 it really boils down to streetability.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Just wondering why you left out the AVO turbos?

Jorge
Have you tuned a AVO 450 yet.

Does anyone know a guess-timate SR50 HP #?

depends on how hard you plan on pushing. At 18 PSI at redline it's theoretically a 48lb/min turbo on a 2.5. at 6700 RPM

That's a hell of a lot of air...

Wombat: nope, no AVO's yet bud.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

can you run the green w/ stock STi internals safely as a daily driver?


chris

What's your definition of safe? ;)

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

not popping teh bastard :p

chris

IMO, no...

Even if you don't detonate the motor, the torque spikes you'll get everytime you come on boost will eventually snap a rod, or something else.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

:( so i have to stick with a VF? if not what the hell am i gonna get, cause i sure as hell don't have money for new internals...


chris

AVO's, FP's, SR's, so many other things you can get. Why are you limiting yourself on a VF?

IMO a SR40 with a 20MM housing is an awesome street turbo for an STI. If you want something that will do everything very decently, there ya go. If your looking at around 350WHP max, then go that route.

If you want something capable of producing around 400WHP relatively simply go with the 50, if you can find the 50 in a 20MM housing, even better. If not it'll work fine.

The idea is simple, control the torque line, not run something that HAS to run that hard, that fast or surge.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Jorge..

I am going to conceed right off the bat, that you are more qualified to comment than I am, but now that this is out of the way, I think that the green is very streetable on a 2.5L USDM STi motor, and having ran the thing for no less than 6 months now I am pretty convinced that its safe for the motor when properly tuned as well. Now, you may be entirely right about the rods, drivelines, and other misc pieces, because 6 months is not really long enough to make any reasonable longevity claims.

More than anything else I would like people to understand that the green is rocking by 3500 RPM and pulling insanely hard at 3700 RPM. Full boost is more than certainly achieved by 3700 rpms in fourth or firth gear. I am talking 22lbs here, not 16 or 17 psi.

Granted the thing is not online the moment that you hit the accellerator, but with some other good supporting mods that help you out on the NA side of things, you can get up and going pretty damn quickly. I don't find myself complaining at all about the streetability of this turbo. Even when I was on stock fuel and running stock boost levels I thought that it was a vast improvement over the triangular shape of the stock torque curve. It completely changes the anti-climatic feeling that 5-7k has on a factory STI.

Disclaimer: I do not have experience with the SR50 on an STI.

However some of the guys in the socal area did, and when my STI with green made 351 whp @ XS Engineering on stock engine management, 91 oct, and stock fueling they were more than tickled. They have been tuning STIs with the unichip, APS injectors and SR50s and not seeing much more exciting results. Lets just say, after a test drive they were floored.

Next time the car is in socal we will be refining tune and trying out a new turbo. I will see if I can get some green numbers before we do this.

W1

W1,
Is your Green internally gated or externally gated?
J

I think all Subaru greens are internally gated. I don't think they (mitsu) ever made a Subaru flanged turbine housing that was externally gated.

Like I said earlier, When Phil tunes my car, W1 and myself can compare results. I have no doubt that the green will beat the SR50 in peak HP. It's the "by how much" and "what happens below that" where people are unsure.

SR50 made 399 AWHP on my friends STI @ 22 psi. I'll sell you the turbo , make an offer.

btw, it's the 17.5 housing. I'm parting out his car for him :) Here is the link to everything I have available :D

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=544494

Originally posted by wgknestrick
I think all Subaru greens are internally gated. I don't think they (mitsu) ever made a Subaru flanged turbine housing that was externally gated.

Mitsu sure does not make the external wastegate, but Forced Performance sure does. Unfortunate part is that you have to get it custom welded on to your up-pipe.

Mitsu sure does not make the external wastegate, but Forced Performance sure does. Unfortunate part is that you have to get it custom welded on to your up-pipe

Are you certain about this?????

For the mitsu flanged turbos they make an externally gated model, no doubt.

For the Subaru model I think they buy old hot sides from the old JDM wrx/sti when they used to have Mitsu turbos (all internally gated). This is why I could not get a green at the time and I didn't have much confidence that there would be anymore greens made. FP has (I think) to find a way to buy/find old hotsides that are not being produced anymore. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

That would mean that you cannot buy a Subaru FP Green that is externally gated unless they weld the internal wastegate shut (which doesn't count)

Worldone: Noted :cool:

In the end, what it boils down to is buy what you need. If you only need X, don't buy x+5. There's something to be said about a long lost concept called "mechanical sympathy", and if you get a grin on your face and your boys shrivel up like frightened turtles on a SR40, there's no need for something larger. Your car, ultimately, will thank you.

Don't get me wrong.... When I tuned an 8CM green it impressed, but to really make the green happy, you need to run around 24-25 PSI. That's where you take advantage of your investment, and where those crowns are going to compress on the top compression ring and eventually break.

So... mechanical sympathy being considered. Why not buy a turbo that can get you where you want, without having to run insane pressure ratios?

I dunno, that's my opinion though. In the end. Neither myself, or the fine folks at world one are right or wrong. It's a matter of taking all opinions, then figuring out what's right for YOU.

Personally.. I want to run around 330-370WHP on my 2.5 with the least amount of effort possible, while minimizing lag at all costs (I run a 4EAT).

For me, an SR50 with a 17.5MM housing will complement all the aspiration maximizing mods I've done (head work, cams, header, exhaust, intake work, etc.)

Cheers!
Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

For me, an SR50 with a 17.5MM housing will complement all the aspiration maximizing mods I've done (head work, cams, header, exhaust, intake work, etc.)

Jorge:

I guess you are aware that with those mods and that turbo you can get a bit more power than what you "would like" right?
:rolleyes: ;)

Ahhh, but the keyword was "with the least amount of effort possible"

I'm going to be able to do that at 14-15 PSI on the SR50. The SR50 is still in it's efficiency at those lower PR's. A green by comparison is so inefficient down low it's actually HURTING you.

So again, it's a matter of matching to what you want to do.

Plot out a 2.5 on a compressor map sometime ;), it's very enlightening.

My ideal boost curve to keep me above 70% efficiency is going to be 18PSI till 6k 16PSI at 6500, 14PSI at 7000, and 12 PSI at 7500. That will A: not max the MAF I'm running, while B: keeping me at the most efficient points of this turbo... which ultimately results in the least amount of mechanical stress for everything, while producing the figures I want.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/APS%20SR50%20Raw%20Compressor%20Map.gif <-- that's the SR50's raw compressor map that was plotted out.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/18psi.JPG <- 18PSI on that setup

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/16psi.JPG <-- 16 PSI

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/12psi.JPG <--- 12 PSI

Just to give some examples of the research done. Shooting for around 35-36 lb/min

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Jorge:

yes, I have already... Don't forget I had to do my homework as well for my 2.65L! ;) :disco: (I am using an FP3065 though)

How's she holding up BTW?

Personally if I was going to go with a larger turbo, I'd do something crazy like a GT3240 hehe. 57 trim hot 50 trim cold side. Keeps about a 2:1 BP/EP ratio, and can produce the airflow I'd want by like a bar of boost hehe. Should spool up hella fast with the twin volute setup of the GT32 hotside.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Would be nice to test a GT32R twin scroll combo with your setup.

I could still change to a GT35R or GT37R twin scroll setup. :devil: Not decided yet! However the FP3065 should spool insanely fast in my motor, and still be able to produce 500+whp.

It will definately be in the 3K - 3.5K rpms range (full boost) or who knows if sooner. (doubt it)

Originally posted by RiftsWRX

I'm going to be able to do that at 14-15 PSI on the SR50. The SR50 is still in it's efficiency at those lower PR's. A green by comparison is so inefficient down low it's actually HURTING you.


Where do you get the info that the green is inefficient at low boost - compressor map (where?) or experience?
I'm not suggesting your wrong - just trying to understand.

Duncan

There's a compressor map floating out to very limited eyes, but you can look at a T04 50 trim to get an idea of the compressor in a Green. Also, experiance. When tuning, you hit a point where everything just feels right, the motor sounds perfect, and things are not straining due to a proper volumetric harmony amongst parts.

Hope that helps,

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Interesting thread, and timely, as i was looking to build up a stock 2.5 with RA spec C heads hybrid, with a green. Looking for an ultra reliable 350Whp on a car that absolutly has to do almost 900 miles a week. I was thinking the green was overkill and could be detuned singnificanlty thus providing a very comfortable overhead for reliability. So a 50 might be a better option here?

Originally posted by RiftsWRX
Ahhh, but the keyword was "with the least amount of effort possible"

I'm going to be able to do that at 14-15 PSI on the SR50. The SR50 is still in it's efficiency at those lower PR's. A green by comparison is so inefficient down low it's actually HURTING you.

So again, it's a matter of matching to what you want to do.

Plot out a 2.5 on a compressor map sometime ;), it's very enlightening.

My ideal boost curve to keep me above 70% efficiency is going to be 18PSI till 6k 16PSI at 6500, 14PSI at 7000, and 12 PSI at 7500. That will A: not max the MAF I'm running, while B: keeping me at the most efficient points of this turbo... which ultimately results in the least amount of mechanical stress for everything, while producing the figures I want.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/APS%20SR50%20Raw%20Compressor%20Map.gif <-- that's the SR50's raw compressor map that was plotted out.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/18psi.JPG <- 18PSI on that setup

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/16psi.JPG <-- 16 PSI

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/12psi.JPG <--- 12 PSI

Just to give some examples of the research done. Shooting for around 35-36 lb/min

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Jorge-when do u think you'll get full boost on an sr50? ie at what rpm? thnx

Mine starts making boost right below 3K RPM with a FMIC. However, I am not running more than wastegate boost right now on the Vishnu stage 1 tune. But, 3K RPM on a custom tuned setup, wouldn't be an inaccurate number.

Originally posted by wgknestrick
Mine starts making boost right below 3K RPM with a FMIC. However, I am not running more than wastegate boost right now on the Vishnu stage 1 tune. But, 3K RPM on a custom tuned setup, wouldn't be an inaccurate number.

Thnx-areu talking full boost at 3000rpm.

When I talk boost, I mean wastegate boost (10psi). That is the most I willing to run until I get tuned. Look on APS's website though. Their SR50 STI makes more HP at every point on the graph against a stock STI. Plus it also makes 125 more HP at redline.;)

Originally posted by wgknestrick
When I talk boost, I mean wastegate boost (10psi). That is the most I willing to run until I get tuned. Look on APS's website though. Their SR50 STI makes more HP at every point on the graph against a stock STI. Plus it also makes 125 more HP at redline.;)

Thnx man. I'm really considering this turbo-what's it feel like at 10 psi/ How's throttle resonse- Does it spool as fast as stocker-does it feel faster than ur vf39 right now w/ sr50 at 10psi?

Jorge-are u going to run the stock sti maf w/ the sr50?

Originally posted by wgknestrick
Like I said earlier, When Phil tunes my car, W1 and myself can compare results. I have no doubt that the green will beat the SR50 in peak HP. It's the "by how much" and "what happens below that" where people are unsure.

When are u getting tuned and what are your mod? are u sing stock maf? thnx.

Actually... I'm using a WRX MAF... for now ;)

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

I am pretty sure that Jorge would like to get rid of the MAF any time soon. :D I know I did. ;)

It's tough to review a setup that is not tuned. My car is not tuned at all. All I have is a Vishnu stage 1 map loaded, and dialed so that it is semi-safe.

A while back, my car made 270WHP at 10psi of boost. The car was tuned terribly by someone who didn't know Xedes. This tune was discarded in favor of the Vishnu base map. The state of the tune didn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling to turn up the boost:( just yet.

Right now, there is noticable lag compared to the stock turbo on part throttle application. When you get into it (I rarely do right now) the turbo starts spooling about 2500RPM and is making 10psi of boost at 3K RPM. Will it be making 20+psi at that level? I don't possess ESP, but I would guess that it would be very close when fully tuned.

I am using the Perrin MAF right now, and may opt to use MAP loading with Phil's EMS if I can. I feel that the SR50 can definately peg the MAF at full boost.

Jorge,

I was thinking about green after Dan from Godspeed told me he has some in stock and they make a nice power. But this weekend I spoke with Phil on AutoX and he said it might be a bit laggy (he is running 2.5 in his WRX with PE1818). I would like to open my engine up at high revs (not crazy, just make more flat torque curve) but I'd hate to sacrifice low lag of a stock setup.
Do you think SR50 would be better for me? Maybe PE1818 or SR40?
Please advice because I am definately noob and I can only tell anything from dyno graphs but I did not find any comparison like this yet.

I wouldn't put any of the smaller SRs on the car. It depends on how competitive you want to be at autocross. Either would be a slight comprimise in autocross, but produce big power. You can't really use all the power that these produce in autocross.

I don't think that the smaller SR series are worth that much (poor design). If you were to get a SR50, I would try the larger 20mm housing instead of the standard 17.5mm that usually comes with it.

I want something balanced for everything. I want as fat torque as possible from low RPMs. I want it for street, autox and track. I want my engine not to fall on it's face after 5K RPM like it does now. Sp I need a turbo which does not add lag and will hold more boost to the redline. 320+ reliable whp would be good enough I think.

Rafal, this is Phil. It would be nice if more people tried the 1818 (or kingpin modified 1818 turbo) on the STI. My car is a bit strange though as I produced more power with the turbo I have than many that have run a lot more boost with bigger turbos on STIs. I don't really know what the difference is, I made 350whp@less than 17psi on GRD's dynapack. My turbo also cannot sustain boost to redline, it still makes peak power at around 6000 rpm and falls off to 14psi or so by redline. At the autocross on Sunday the peak boost I hit was 1.06 bar or ~15.5psi. On most of the runs I ran less boost, around 14.5psi. It just wasn't worth it to turn the boost up because of the wheel spin issues. Cobb ran the SR40 turbo on the conebasher car and was impressed with it, he was very unimpressed with the SR50.

A green in an STi....

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=555449

Originally posted by RiftsWRX
Ahhh, but the keyword was "with the least amount of effort possible"

I'm going to be able to do that at 14-15 PSI on the SR50. The SR50 is still in it's efficiency at those lower PR's. A green by comparison is so inefficient down low it's actually HURTING you.

So again, it's a matter of matching to what you want to do.

Plot out a 2.5 on a compressor map sometime ;), it's very enlightening.

My ideal boost curve to keep me above 70% efficiency is going to be 18PSI till 6k 16PSI at 6500, 14PSI at 7000, and 12 PSI at 7500. That will A: not max the MAF I'm running, while B: keeping me at the most efficient points of this turbo... which ultimately results in the least amount of mechanical stress for everything, while producing the figures I want.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/APS%20SR50%20Raw%20Compressor%20Map.gif <-- that's the SR50's raw compressor map that was plotted out.

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/18psi.JPG <- 18PSI on that setup

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/16psi.JPG <-- 16 PSI

http://www.freebmw.net/sherif/Automotive/12psi.JPG <--- 12 PSI

Just to give some examples of the research done. Shooting for around 35-36 lb/min

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

Just curious, but why did you chose to use the same Volumetric efficiency across the entire RPM range? It seems like with most cars the VE can change a good amount as engine speed changes.

Green, and the lag is hardly bad at all on the STi.

Originally posted by dwx
It would be nice if more people tried the 1818 (or kingpin modified 1818 turbo) on the STI.
Actually I'd love others to try so I would know before spending ca$h. ;-)
My car is a bit strange though as I produced more power with the turbo I have than many that have run a lot more boost with bigger turbos on STIs. I don't really know what the difference is, I made 350whp@less than 17psi on GRD's dynapack.
You just complicated things again. :alien:
My turbo also cannot sustain boost to redline, it still makes peak power at around 6000 rpm and falls off to 14psi or so by redline.
So what is just a little bit bigger then PE1818 to open it a little more up top but not sacrifice a lot of low end?
At the autocross on Sunday the peak boost I hit was 1.06 bar or ~15.5psi. On most of the runs I ran less boost, around 14.5psi. It just wasn't worth it to turn the boost up because of the wheel spin issues.
AutoX is not my priority. But yesterday I was loosing a lot because of gearing. I shifted to 3rd 3 times and hit rev limiter 3 times more. I do not have enough torque to stay in 3rd. I think I will move to SM anyway (but street tire) so your little help would be appreciated. :-)
Cobb ran the SR40 turbo on the conebasher car and was impressed with it, he was very unimpressed with the SR50.
But they were running a different engine. What was wrong with SR50 in their opinion?

Originally posted by totoherbs
A green in an STi....

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=555449

Nice. :-)
Looks like Green is loosing low end to VF39 but later wakes up to pull some nice numbers. Still, I am exprcting more low end after tune not less.

The Gren isn't too bad. I have an even better solution if you want no lag and want to keep that Green's top end power but sadly it is not cheap. As for bolt on turbo it is very limited due to the space you have to work with. It is just impossible to have a super efficient design and still put the turbo in the stock location since the compressor housing wants to hit everything.

GT30R can't be beat...

And I don't even have an STi.

Originally posted by god
The Gren isn't too bad. I have an even better solution if you want no lag and want to keep that Green's top end power but sadly it is not cheap. As for bolt on turbo it is very limited due to the space you have to work with. It is just impossible to have a super efficient design and still put the turbo in the stock location since the compressor housing wants to hit everything.

What's the better solution? thnx

what psi are you set on with the FP3065 and a 2.65L? Im getting a FP3052 and using it on a 2.5L and i was wondering what a good setting would be.

is the gt30r a bolt on or does it req a custom manifold???? who sells them????

Originally posted by vteckiller01
is the gt30r a bolt on or does it req a custom manifold???? who sells them????

No, yes. God is making a kit.

Street - 16/18psi Race - 24/26psi

However I am going to give a try to the GT37 twin scroll.


Originally posted by thechase
what psi are you set on with the FP3065 and a 2.65L? Im getting a FP3052 and using it on a 2.5L and i was wondering what a good setting would be.

I havent heard about the GT37. Where can i find some info on it?

Originally posted by thechase
I havent heard about the GT37. Where can i find some info on it?

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/servlet/com.turbobygarrett.servlet.TurboByGarrettCTR

Garrett catalog... Its a big freakin turbo.

can you find me another link because my computer wont let me download the catalog
:mad:

WHOA!! Thats nice....but would it work? The Garrett catalog suggests a 2.8-3.8 displacment for that turbo!:D

Originally posted by thechase
WHOA!! Thats nice....but would it work? The Garrett catalog suggests a 2.8-3.8 displacment for that turbo!:D

Work ya, overkill for anything but the biggest of built motors... most definitely.

Man wouldn't it take forever for it to come on boost though because it's so big?

on an STi 2.5L i mean...wouldn't it take forever?

Take a closer look... It is actually "smaller" than the GT35R. GT37 is a 55psi turbo, while the GT35R is a 65psi turbo. Also take a look at the map of the turbo... then have in mind the characteristics of my particular motor. :devil:


It mantains many of the characteristics of a GT30R.


Originally posted by totoherbs
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/servlet/com.turbobygarrett.servlet.TurboByGarrettCTR

Garrett catalog... Its a big freakin turbo.

How is the GT37 better then the FP3065?

Actually - There is no easy answer for this question.

Let's say for example we use GPMoto's R&D car. Their STI with the GT32R kit... Imagine having this turbo in there... There will of course be more lag in the 2.5 BUT in a fully built/tricked out 2.65L motor this turbo could (I hope) spool equally fast and will have a LOT more power/top-end.

Originally posted by thechase
How is the GT37 better then the FP3065?

Honestly... I don't think it is in any way better than the FP3065. There are other reasons why I am trying out the GT37 route. However, keep in mind the FP3065 was designed for DSM 2.0L race cars. DSMs have higher compression than Subarus, and it is easier to make power in those motors than in a Subaru engine.

Hmmm...I would have thought that you would have been content with the BADASS FP3065

With a motor/project like I have right now... I definately would like to try out a few turbos before making my final descision. I will let you guys know what it yields.

Only a few members know ccomplete details about my project.

Originally posted by thechase
Hmmm...I would have thought that you would have been content with the BADASS FP3065

SO you're saying the GT37 might gain more power then the FP 3065?

Would you have to get custom piping if you got the Garrett? Or would it be ok with an aftermarket uppipe, downpipe, etc.?

Originally posted by Julio
Actually - There is no easy answer or this question.

Let's say for example we use GPMoto's R&D car. Their STI with the GT32R kit... Imagine having this turbo in there... There will of course be more lag in the 2.5 BUT in a fully built/tricked out 2.65L motor this turbo could (I hope) spool equally fast and will have a LOT more power/top-end.

Ya, may see the same spool... get some good heads and nicer cams. The jun 264s or 256s or 272s if you dont care about idle.

Originally posted by thechase
Would you have to get custom piping if you got the Garrett? Or would it be ok with an aftermarket uppipe, downpipe, etc.?

Custom. Thies turbos are big dogs for built blocks, not the ej257 stock block.

Well there goes my interest in the GT37:huh:

Ordered my green today :p

thechase:

GPMoto is working on bolt-on kits of these turbos. Im NOT saying these will make more power than an FP3065, BUT they will definately behave different in my motor. That's what I want to see. In other words.. Im trying to get an even point... "The best of the two worlds" I know it is VERY difficult... but Im willing to try.

To put it simple... Im trying to get a turbo that will maximize my powerband.


totoherbs:

Yes, my heads are V8 SpecC fully tricked out as well. ;)

Carguy: Enjoy! :cool:

Can i get a web address for that GP moto so i can check it out?

Originally posted by thechase
Can i get a web address for that GP moto so i can check it out?
ehhh... See this thread about that. There is also a link to thier gt32 kit in it. The gt32 in the kit they are working on would be a better turbo for the ej257... over 24-25psi and things may not last too long.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=547962&highlight=gt32

Julio, I still think the 3065 would have been a better choice for you. Twin scroll is pretty useless for your purposes and I even have an extra prototype I could have sponsored you with.

uh...is that 3065 prototype still up for grabs?:D

Only for Julio. I have more production units ready next week.

Originally posted by vteckiller01
is the gt30r a bolt on or does it req a custom manifold???? who sells them????


My GT30R is bolt on - but mine is an all-Garrett hybrid, if such a thing could exist:

AVO turbine housing from a blown turbo
GT30R CHRA
Garrett compressor housing

Works great...

Originally posted by big_adventure
My GT30R is bolt on - but mine is an all-Garrett hybrid, if such a thing could exist:

AVO turbine housing from a blown turbo
GT30R CHRA
Garrett compressor housing

Works great...

Source?

Clark Turner (AZScoobie) for the exhaust housing and the idea. Turbochargers.com for the porting, cartridge, compressor housing and build. The comp housing is a T3/04 comp housing.

Pics are here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=538348

-Sean

Dan:

As we spoke earlier, I REALLY wanted to keep the FP3065, however I gave my word to the guy I promised to sell it to, so I did. I am testing the GT37, but DEFINATELY want to try the FP3065. The GT37 stwin scroll is given... so no choice on this.

As you are aware, I have spent countless hours/weeks/months doing research for my project (that you know extremely well) and I still beleive the FP3065 is the perfect choice for my project.

I will give you a call later to finish details on the FP3065 and the Hydra.

Dan/Totoherbs/AZScoobie/Sponaugle/Ron/Quirt thank you all for making this project happen. ;)



Originally posted by god
Julio, I still think the 3065 would have been a better choice for you. Twin scroll is pretty useless for your purposes and I even have an extra prototype I could have sponsored you with.