Barticus
05-22-2004, 04:17 PM
When turboing a NA subaru should the head still be tightened to stock specifications or should it be tightened more for the added psi?
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View Full Version : head bolt tightness Barticus 05-22-2004, 04:17 PM When turboing a NA subaru should the head still be tightened to stock specifications or should it be tightened more for the added psi? subiekid 05-26-2004, 02:36 AM i dont have an answer to your question, but i would try posting in the conversoins forum, more people visit it, this info might even be in there. GravelRX 06-19-2004, 12:50 AM 87 Ea82T goes to 47lb. in steps. If your using a block from a non-turbo car and the compression will be higher I would have the block and heads checked for a baseline. Then maybe go to 50lb. in steps. Good Luck as I'm shooting from the hip with this advice. Looking for a bit more bottom end are you? Regards, Jay sixpack subaru 07-03-2004, 01:17 AM Originally posted by GravelRX 87 Ea82T goes to 47lb. in steps. If your using a block from a non-turbo car and the compression will be higher I would have the block and heads checked for a baseline. Then maybe go to 50lb. in steps. Good Luck as I'm shooting from the hip with this advice. Looking for a bit more bottom end are you? Regards, Jay Hey YA! The 'Block', or Crank-Case as it is known, does not affect compression, bores and rods are identical. Pistons are what sets the Comp. Cheers!;) sixpack subaru 07-03-2004, 01:32 AM If you turn the boost up over 9Psi without an intercooler you WILL PULL HEAD BOLTS!!! It happened to me at 11Psi, but I have seen happen with less boost. The best thing you can do for an EA82, (if you are convinced an Eng Conversion isn't your thing), is to replace the factory Dump Pipe with a custom unit. I used the original DP flange plate and cut it away so as it was just slightly larger than turbo outlet housing, (make sure the gasket doesn't interfere with Gas flow). This alone gave me 1 PSI more boost (8psi!!:lol: ) without any other mods!!! EVEN THE REST OF THE EXHAUST WAS STOCK AT THAT POINT!! I was also annoyed with the inherrant 'Lag' associated with older 'heavier' Turbo's and the 'Spool up time' required as a result of heavy rotating components. To over-come this 'Gear Change Lag' (You can actually hear the Wastegate on gearchanges!), I fitted a dual stage BOV that gave me about 1000rpm at gearchange. Eng management was next, Ait intake, Intercooler-(Old commercial Aircon Evaporator Core Tigged and resin filled), relocation of 'compact type spare wheel(Turbo Only) and battery, (to facilitate 12 litre Intercooler water spray) to boot. 85 mm Throttle Body, 'Bored' Injector Nozzles and Two Days on the Dyno. 1st Run this Car pulled 12.8sec400m Time!!:devil: I used to have great fun showing up WRX's, BMW's, Porsches etc. I had previously fitted a Vortex 'Push Button 4WD' Manual in place of the OEM Auto. This was the only part of the vehicle I did not rebuild as it came from low milage Jap import. This was also the item that failed, (REVERSING IN A CARPARK!:mad: ) causing the Crownwheel to 'Stick it's head out and have a look'. The result was 3.2 Litres of GearOil on the Road, and some Crownwheel/Pinion Pieces here and there. I have since sold it to a 'Younger Version of Me' and Moved up to a WRX....another story perhaps.......... Sorry to keep on dribbling, I just love the little Buggers..... Cheers:D WJM 07-04-2004, 09:56 PM I am running 60 ft-lbs of TQ on my factory heads and engine. Its an experiement with a new sealing compound to be used with Non-OE turbo headgaskets.....which those fail, while the OE ones from SUBARU do not. So far, 6k miles of hard foot to floor WOT fun and no failures. Got the engine REALLY HOT and no blown HG either. |