I heard that a 50-75 shot would be pretty safe to run in a stock STi...with no modifications...Is this true...or is my friend crazy?

Its like anything else, if it is done correctly and installed properly it wwon;t do any more harm then running mroe boost.

I would also like some more feedback on this. I too was thinking of putting a 50-75 shot on. Anyone running nitrous currently?

sounds like fun,
just not with my sti... ;)

and go wet..... dry + fuel cut = BOOM!!!

yeah id never touch nitrous...though water injection could be fun...:devil:

I fried two pistons in my old 1.8T spraying....will never do it again, but i have to say it was FUN while it lasted

what is the diff between wet and dry? i know its a dumb question but is the wet like water and dry just like a fog?

dry i sspraying NOS into your intake I believe... while wet is mixing it w/ your fuel so fule cut = NO2 cut = no boom...

also, I head that the USDM STi pistons are hyper-somting cast, and those supposedly handle stress better than forged, but will shatter with the freqs caused by NO2... o.O personally, I think NO2 is useless...

no3 is alot of hp for cheap, that is the alure....
and it's fun as hell to push the red button and feel your teeth dry out from the gforces...

having seen what it does when things go wrong, i dont think i will ever use it in a car i care about....

probably be safer with the N-tercooler kit. Does anyone have any experience with this. I'm curious to know what sort of whp difference it makes.

aznatama - I'm assuming you meant hyper-eutectic - that style of cooling/heat treating keeps the pistons strong, as does forging.

Not sure if my input is worth two cents, but I've never touched the juice, and have heard plenty of stories of the "engines gone raw" sort - due to nitrous

Originally posted by obsidianSTI
probably be safer with the N-tercooler kit. Does anyone have any experience with this. I'm curious to know what sort of whp difference it makes.

the ntercooler just foggs the intercooler to lower the intake charge... there is no actual combustion of nitrous.

it would be fun looking with a fmic, but i'd use co2 not no3 ($$)

yeah co2 is a heck of a lot cheaper. I'm curious to know what sort of whp increase to expect. The kit alone is around 400 so I wasn't sure if it would be worth it.

guy on ebay custom makes co2 kits for <$300 including 5# bottle, and wot switch...

i have no idea about gain.....
it has a certain mad max apeal to it though....

Detonate once on NO2 and kiss your pistons good bye. When using Hyperutectic pistons and nitrous the sound frequencies of a nitrous detonation will shatter the pistons.

I had a dumb question about NOS as well. If running a large turbo and boost doesn't come on until late into your RPMs (as in over 4500), would it make sense to run NOS before the turbo spools up? Would that be anything at all like a twin turbo setup?

offset

A 50 shot is not going to hurt a thing. I put 10-12 bottles through my EJ205 WRX engine without issue. I later sprayed that with a 70 shot at 23-24 psi and got into the 11's. What you need to understand is that octane is going to be the limiting factor with nitrous. Just as octane is the limiting factor with boost. If you have your setup tuned to the max for pump fuel and then spray a 50shot you are asking for trouble. If you have some room in your state of tune the 50shot will work well. I sprayed my Spec C motor many times at 50shot and even sprayed it at 2.0 bar of boost on the dyno.. I was using 100 octane unleaded on those pulls. No issues..

If the kit is installed correctly and setup correctly I think alot of you would have great luck with Nitrous. I love it.. A 50 shot is going to knock a solid .5 to 1 full second off your ET and probably add a good 5mph to your trap...

As for using nitrous to spool a big turbo... This can be done and is done by lots of people. If you use a Utec you can program/wire the utec to control the solenoids. Or you can use a Boost switch so the nitrous is cut off at XX boost pressure. I dont fully trust australian electronics so I always use a WOT switch and a master switch on my nitrous setup.

C

I don't think anyone properly answred the "dry" vs. "wet" question, so I'll just clarify...

"dry" = nitrous added with no additional fuel, except for perhaps an attempt at more fuel through the injector system. Lots of problems here, and IMHO not the way to go if any sort of engine longevity is desired.

"wet" = nitrous properly mixed with fuel is atomized into various intake locations. Most wet setups will have two lines feeding each injection point, one blue for the nitrous and one red for the additional fuel. The two streams are mixed and sprayed into the intake tract. Usually some form of upgraded pumping system is required to provide the nitrous' fuel injectors with pressure. This setup, properly tuned, can make resonably reliable horsepower.

Originally posted by aznatama
dry i sspraying NOS into your intake I believe... while wet is mixing it w/ your fuel so fule cut = NO2 cut = no boom...

also, I head that the USDM STi pistons are hyper-somting cast, and those supposedly handle stress better than forged, but will shatter with the freqs caused by NO2... o.O personally, I think NO2 is useless...


The whats caused by nitrous??

Originally posted by JSork25
aznatama - I'm assuming you meant hyper-eutectic - that style of cooling/heat treating keeps the pistons strong, as does forging.

Not sure if my input is worth two cents, but I've never touched the juice, and have heard plenty of stories of the "engines gone raw" sort - due to nitrous


Also just FYI hyper eutectic pistons are a convetionally cast piston with a super high silica content to lessen thermal expansion and to harden up the matrix that the metal sets up inside the mold. The Hyper part of the designation means that the mixture is super saturated with silica which means that there is more in the "mixture" than the metal can dissolve. This creates very hard silica "pools" if you will inside the metal mixture that strengthens the piston. This type of casting is very good for holding power but not so hot for handling abuse/detonation since this material for the piston is very hard but very brittle.

Richard

Richard - that's all sounding pretty correct to me (for those that want the in depth answer - I didn't want to divulge into detail and confuse anyone that doesn't want to be burdened with the uglies :) - I know I for one get annoyed when I have a question and want simple explanation/answer in my own language instead of someone else using their technical jargon that they learned in school, that's just going to confuse me.

~ Josh

On EDIT : a summation of the H-E pistons (IMO) would be "great for a dragstrip/non daily-driver car, as they are very strong, but aren't going to stay that way forever (not reliable for a bajillion miles - yes.... I said a bajillion.)

Doesnt the Supra use HE pistons from the factory? I know guys with 125-175k miles and running 700hp+ no problems? Granted those 2JZGTE engines are bullet proof, but... just curious to what you think.

Great writeups btw on the nitrous.

Also... I didnt see this mentioned. For reliable, safety, and power, which brand would you use? FATF Nos:lol:, Nos, NX, Zex, etc... thanks!

Robert~

Yes they are HE pistons, you are right!

Originally posted by eightballrj
Yes they are HE pistons, you are right!

Im right?! Give me a Cookie! :lol: ;) jk

Maybe we will have some longevity then with some hp :) So what do you guys think is the best kit as far as nitrous goes? I've heard the best was NX, but Im not sure. Never used nitrous as I was always too paranoid to use it.

Robert~

I would say only get nitrous if you can get a good tune. I would even go as far to say that I wouldnt do nitrous unless I could run a full on direct port system because of the inconsistencies that we have seen with how the manifold/heads flow. Well that might be kinda counter productive... hell I dont know cus I dont mess with nitrous. I dont need it yet. Good luck though. I would say go with NX solenoids at least.

Richard

hmmm... good point. I am getting a UTEC before anything, so I will be able to tune it. I'll just see... probably wont need it for a while anyways.

Robert~

NOS is like a hard core legal pain killer. In the hands of a pro, properly installed, tuned for and fueled for it gets dramatic results.

But.. for many people it is like the experiment where they gave the rat cocaine everytime he hit the lever. Dam rat just couldn't stop hitting the button and and ended up fried.

There are more horror stories about NOS than success stories. But in the hands of an experienced tuner, used and not abused the results are dramatic.