I just got my kit last night and will be installing it this weekend. I am going to take many many pictures just like the TEC-II install I did a few weeks back.

I took some preliminary pics of the kit last night... still have to shoot the Intercooler, pre-welded oilpan from Minnam, and the fasteners bag. But you can see what I shot already.

<a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1125321&a=8476574">http://www.photopoint.com/images/pplogo3.gif</a>

I am going to try to document the entire install for the MY99. The only documented install to date is SteveS's MY98 install. So this should be good, plus you will be able to see the improvements that Minnam has made since the 98 kits.

Any questions about the install please direct here.

Good thing it's a long weekend! http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

For those that want to know... If all goes according to plan, I will be installing the kit at a local garage in Fort Lauderdale. I will be borrowing the lift and perhaps a set of hands, but I am doing the install myself.

Wish me luck!

Later
-Nick

[This message has been edited by NickCat (edited August 31, 2000).]

Good luck on the install and thanks for the great pics. This is the first time I've actually been able to see the kit. Keep us updated on how things go. If I was somehow able to find $5k and get the kit, I'd be doing my own install too.

Mike

wow... good picts you should have done Minnams web site...

does anybody have any info on what minnam's site is? i thought they were bought by AMR or something...

does anybody sell the minnam kits?

I'm now officially offering a Minnam/TEC-II combo. See my newly updated site for more info.

-shiv www.vishnuperformance.com (http://www.vishnuperformance.com)

Nick to make your life easy when installing the oil pan loosen the lower engine mount bolts and jack the engine up. This will make it easy to get to the four 10 mil nuts.
have fun it took me 2 hours until I realized that I should have jacked the engine up.

Thanks for the tip scoobie... fortunatly I just changed the engine mounts last weekend... so I kinda had that in mind... but thank you... but now other people know too! http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif That's why I am doing this thread.

I also just updated the pictures... check em out... (added the IC, Oil-Pan, and rest of the fittings shots)

<a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1125321&a=8476574">
http://www.photopoint.com/images/pplogo3.gif</a>

-Nick

Nice stuff!

I sure am glad mine came with all of this stuff from Subaru!

as i had said befor great photos, but they need a referance for size. Is that intercooler 4 feet wide or 18"?
anyway great work

-jared

DLC:
Huh? but you live in the states... are you trying to say you have a factory turbo impreza?

Jaxx:
I'll try to get measurements on the stuff and put it in the description. Good tip... just didn't have anything I wanted to see in all the pictures handy.

UPDATE: Just posted the scanned instructions on the site. Click PhotoPoint link above to see pics.

-Nick

Nick,

I have swapped oil pans twice - big fun.

You do need to jack the engine up as high as possible for easier access. I would recommend unbolting the AC line that rund directly behind the throttle body on the firewall (it's a small bolt) - this will give you the ability to get te engine a couple of inches higher and make it that much easier.

The manual says about 100 times not to use a screwdriver to pry the oil pan off becasue you will damage the block. Try to use a 1" scraper to break the bead on the pan (I used a razor knife to cut through the bead as much as I could) and wedge it int here to pry the pan off. Eventually you will use a screwdriver http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/wink.gif Also I used a scotchbright pad to clean off the block which worked very well - it still takes some time, but you need to clean it properly to get a good seal. Also, the torque spec on the oil pan bolts is like 15 ft.lbs, so don't overtighten them or they will strip. I used Subaru bond, but any RTV sealeant should work. Have fun. The first time it took me about 3 hours, but the second time it took about 1 hour.

DLC has a legacy turbo..

Yep!

Closed deck, better valves, larger cooling passages, wider oil passages.

Too bad the intake sucks hard, literally.

That news isn't good... I really did figured that the oilpan would be the worst part of the install...

Where can I get that sealant for the oilpan? Any auto shop? 'Subaru Bond' just Surbau's version of the same generic sealant?

-Nick

Nick,

It's not that hard, but it probably will be the hardest part of the installation. The "Subaru Bond" stuff is grey ad thinner than RTV. I don't know the equavalent, the manual dosn't list one. I would either call a local dealer or go to an autoparts store and ask what they would recommend for an oil pan. Worst case you will have some leaks and have to redo it.

Well the place I am doing it at is actually a import performance shop local in town. I am borrowing the lift. I know the guys pretty well, so I am sure they will have almost all the stuff I would need there. I wasn't going to wing the installation completely on my own... I'm not that crazy. The owner will be there to help a little I'm sure.

-Nick

You're using a lift - THAT'S CHEATING http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/biggrin.gif

Good luck.

DLC, better valves? You mean smaller is better? Check out www.cobbtuning.com (http://www.cobbtuning.com) if you haven't read the cylinder head tests.

I'm aware of the poor head design of the 2.2 Turbo, i just wish there was something that could be done about it.

This doc i snagged from some web page gives a rundown when comparing it to the N/A 2.2:
http://www.xmission.com/~dac/turbo_info.htm

It's a hell of an engine. I know a few guys running 12-13PSI no problems, one without an intercooler http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

Ok Guys... well I have good news and I have bad news...

Good news... the car's running great.... the install took most of today, but it's running beautifully, no leaks (exhaust or oil... yet)

There were a few minor problems with the install though... the weld in the pre-welded oilpan was a little to close to the oil filter and it won't fit with a standard size filter now. So I will more than likely need to run a remote oil res to resolve that one.

Other than that the install went slow, but flawless.

Ok... now the bad news... I only ended up taking a few pics of the really wierd stuff that I should I should try to document, and a few other miselaneous shots. This was basically because I was so busy wrenching I didn't want to stop and snap a shot. Sorry...

I will post the pics I have now... and I will go back over and take shots of things I had to do and will point them out so you know when you do your install.

Few things namely, the oilpan... rao wasn't kidding... it's a pain to get out... and I had the car on a lift and the engine lifted... there are 4 bolts on the backside of the pan that are just ridiculous. I bow down to all of you that intalled this on on the floor... on your backs.

There is a bracket on the engine where the left intercoller leg has to go, just unbolt it... I tried to save it and bent part of it... but just wasn't worth it. It's just there to hold two wire bundles, but you can easily tie-wrap them to something else and save yourself the headache.

The intercooler... damn't they weren't kidding when they said this thing was large... it BARELY fits in there... but looks beautiful once in... the legs on mine were a little crooked for the mounts, so I had to bent them a little, but now it fits perfectly. Just one suggestion install the silicone hose for the throttle body, with both hose clamps slid to the bottom, before you install the IC. This will just save you time.

Bolting up the turbo itself it very simple... and all the pieces pretty much just fall into place and bolt together without any major headaches. One thing I didn't do was screw in the oil return fitting before I put the turbo up... wasn't a big deal, but would have made it much easier. Also... screwing in the steel braided retrtn line to the fitting on the turbo was a pain! it's really tight and the fitting is to large it's hard to manipulate. There are also few metal lines that run over the crossmember, make sure you run the line under those then screw it in.

On the Oil feed line... the best way to get access to that part of the block is to drop the alternator... to remove the belt, then completly unscrew the left adjustable mount seperating it from the alternator so it can swing up on the rightside hinge point. This will afford you enough clearance. If not then you will need to take out the other bolt too, but it's really unecessary, and I have huge hands you'll be find with just the left mount. Then unscrew the oil pressure switch and screw in the NPT fitting profided by Minnam. make sure you get the fitting well into the block, if not.. you won't have enough clearance to run the oil feed line under the intake manifold, it will hit the fuel lines. Once the fitting is in screw in the "T" block tighten it until you can't turn it by hand anymore... then the trick I used to get it tighter was to take a open box wrench and slip it over the top of the "T" to it's prependicular to the engine. then take a screw driver for leverage slide it through the closed end and twist. This will get you enough leverage and save your knuckles in the process. Once that's done, just screw in the oil pressure switch to the front of the "T" and attach the wire (it's really tight, you will have to lenghten it or just stretch it a little). next install the fitting on the other side, run the feed line under the instake manifold and screw it in. I have a pic of this.

Once the IC and the Turbo are bolted up... the rest of the install is cake... the fittings allow for pleanty of freedom of where things tie together. It's just a matter of install the silicon, rubber, and metal hoses together with clamps. Very simple... and easily the shortest part of the install.

Currently I am running the GReddy air filter, but I am probably going back to the stock airbox until I can find a better solution to getting cold air into the engine.

Overall... this wasn't hard... save a few priceless moments swearing at the car! The install would have gone much quicker had I had just the few tips I wrote about here... just the little things that Minnam dosen't really include in their directions. But just a small note would have saved about 2 hours of 'figurin' on my part.

Hope this helps the rest of you undertaking this install. If you want pictures of something specific please let me know. I am going to shoot the entire engine bay tomorrow and try to get some 'publicity' type shots as well as close ups of anything afore mentioned that I don't have pics of yet.

Course I also have to let you know... about 2 hours got wasted with people stopping by the shop... and haveing to strike up a conversation with me about the car. I didn't mind so much... but if I had to say how long this would take without unterruptions and knowing exactly what you're doing... 4-5 hours. That's a nice moderate pace taking care at doing things.

Well, good luck in your installs and as I take more pics or change things I will add it to this thread. I'll eventually make a mod in the mod section for it... just wanted to have more pics first. I'll get em though.

<a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1125321&a=8476574">
http://www.photopoint.com/images/pplogo3.gif</a>

Happy Installing,
Nick

that's awesome Nick!!!

Damn shame I won't be able to do the same for quite a while http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/frown.gif

No need to bow Nick http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/biggrin.gif. I'm glad it went well! Almost everyone forgets to tkae pictures, it is quite an interruption to stop and who wants to handle a camera with greasy hands?

The easiest way to get thosee back 4 bolts is to use a really loooong extension and with a universal joint on the end, but you probably already fgured that out.


Enjoy the new set up!!!

[This message has been edited by rao (edited September 03, 2000).]

(bump, in case anyone missed this)

Thanks for the info. I am about a month behind you and this will help.

I may wimp out and have someboady else do the oil pan. I have replaced a few of these on my 1963 Sunbeam Alpine and frankly I am sick of laying under cars and getting oil dripped all over me.

UPDATE:

Found an Oil leak on Tuesday night when I was down on the floor of my garage checking my EGT Probe. (Think my blackbox on the AutoMeter EGT is busted)

Anyway, the leak is from the return line at the turbo. There is a 45 degree fitting that mounts to the turbo housing and it's just a little loose. So we need to tighten that and then reconnect the line. But other than that... no exhaust or oil leaks.

Also going to be dropping in some colder sparkplugs. I think I might have fouled one of the plugs a while back as I keep having a little trouble with idle. I'm also going to try an ECU reset if that dosen't correct it. It's possible that the ECU is just having trouble adjusting to the turbo, but I'll find out.

-Nick

Nick,

Do not delay swapping in colder plugs. It is cheap and easy insurance.

So in summary, the best way to get the oil pan off is....?

Thanks!

angus

UPDATE:

Installed an AMSOIL Remote Filter Unit on Saturday.

Installed NGK-r 8 plugs and the car seems to be much happier about idle, I think I had certainly fouled one of them.

Finally took care of the small oil leak I was getting from the AN fitting for the return line on the turbo.

I will put up pics of the finished kit once I get a change. Just wanted to make sure everything looks pretty before I go and take pics.

-Nick

UPDATE:

Here are the pics of the underside closeup of the turbo and exhaust part of the kit (pardon the oil, that's why it was up there in the first place)

Also the pics for the AMSOIL Remote Filter Kit installed.

<a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1125321&a=8476574">
http://www.photopoint.com/images/pplogo3.gif</a>

-Nick

Very nice pictures Nick.

What prompted you to go for a remote oil filter? Was the return line causing that much problem?

I'm sure glad mine came with all of this stuff installed, save for the intercooler...

check out my questions in the vishnu forum.

cheers,

angus

DLC:
Thanks... I went for the remote because the oil return line, for the turbo, welded into the pan was a little to close to the oil filter and the filter needed to be dented to fit it in there. So as oppose to having to 'customize' every filter I would put on the car from here on out, I went with a remote unit. It would have been either that or a really long slim unit that probably would have hung down to low. And I prefered to tuck all the stuff that could get knocked off out of harms way under the car.

-Nick

[This message has been edited by NickCat (edited September 19, 2000).]

Nick,

How's the car running performance wise? Let us now after you break it in. What is it? 500 mile break in period?

Hey Nick..

Great work.. http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

Surely they could move the return pipe connection ?

Why does it have to be so close to the filter ?

J.

Snoopy:
The break-in period is officially over... YAY
The car's performance is outstanding! It's fast, you don't feel it though because of the AWD, but it will throw you back in the seat.

Jay_UK:
They probably could have moved it just slightly, but I think the main reason it was placed there specifically was it's probably the best spot design-wise that's away from the header so the return line dosen't get too hot. If you look at the pics you can see where it's located in proportion to the header, there's not a lot of room between the header and oil filter when you're talking about a -10 AN fitting. It's huge! I don't see this as too much of a problem though, just means my oil filter is now protected from getting knocked off should I decide to take my car in the woods! http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

UPDATE:
Finally the beginning of last week I removed and tapped the IC for the Manifold Air Temp Sensor. It wasn't too hard, but pretty scary that you are drilling a hole in this super-expensive piece of metal.

I just recently began to turn up the boost a little with the TEC-II. As of last night I was up from the Wastegate set 5 psi to a TEC-II Boost Solonoid adjusted 6 psi. Because of the TEC's adjustable map the 6 psi is coming on when I set it to at 4500, and when boost pressure over 1 psi, so the extra lb of boost comes on when I want it and not when I don't. Very cool little setup if you ask me.

I will be turning up the boost slowly trying to hit 7 psi, I will wait until I can get the fuel pump upgrade to go any further for safety reasons.

Things to Do:
[list=1]
Get larger midpipe made to mate between the Minnam 2.75" Turbo Downpipe and the 2.5" Stromung Dual Tip Exhaust.
Purchase Up-rated Fuel Pump
Replace toasted EGT Gauge BlackBox (already on order)
[/list=a]
-Nick

[This message has been edited by NickCat (edited September 19, 2000).]

are you going to shoot any post install picts?

I will... I am just procrastinating because I wanted to make sure everything in the engine bay was nice and pretty before I shot them. I think everything looks cool though if not before definitly this weekend.

-Nick

Nick,

Any thoughts as to a larger exhaust. Originally I wa goin to stick with the Stromung but decided on a Greddy 80mm unit. A bit pricey but I am manic about detonation. The larger exhaust apparently provides some cushion when the "turn up the boost" bug bites http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

BTW great pictures http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smile.gif

Joe Hogan

Joe:
Sorry just saw your post now... well no real thoughts yet... considering the Apex N1, but right now I don't think I need it. I'm more worried about my stock midpipe that seriously needs to be replaced before I even consider another exhaust. But maybe eventually.

UPDATE:
Well I have officially been running 7.5 lbs of boost for a few days now and it's unreal! I actually loaded a map in from another TEC-II user (Angus) with almost the same car and it worked perfectly. The car is quick and feels great. Still just tying up loose ends, but feels strong. Just waiting now for my new fuel pump to arrive, then maybe we'll push it a little more. Probably not until the stock midpipe gets replaced with a higher flow one though.

Pics Update
And I finally took the pics of my custom gauge pod and the installed kit today. Got some nice shots today at the <a href="http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/Forum14/HTML/000098.html">South Florida Meet at Moroso</a>. Enjoy...

<a href="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1125321&a=8476574">
http://www.photopoint.com/images/pplogo3.gif</a>

-Nick

Bump... just in case anyone missed this from the weekend.

-Nick

UPDATE:

Well I installed my new fuel pump from Shiv today. Install was actually alot easier than I expected it to be. If you need instructions <a href="http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/Forum9/HTML/000169.html">check here</a>.

Car is stil at 7.5 psi until I get my EGT probe back from Autometer, aparently it went back on me so they need to replace it. Hoping to get it soon so I can finally try to get some track times.

And of course with the new fuel pump nothing is limiting me going to 10psi but my sense of well being for my car... and the fear of not knowing what my EGTs are at that level of boost.

I will let you know as soon as I get brave enough to up the boost a little more.

-Nick

Nick,

Are you going to get any 1/4 mile times or G-Tech Pro times to report how a certain psi of boost is affecting your performance? I just would like to know how your car performs at certain boost levels. Gotta love that Tec II and congrats on your install.

Thanks Kevin...

I will... the best part about the TEC-II having an electronically controlled boost is that it only takes about 10 seconds to change between maps to run an entirely different boost range. So when I finally get around to getting my lazy ass down to the track I will loak the major maps I have from 5 psi (no boost from the TEC), to 7.5, and maybe 10 if I can get a map ready. Should be interesting to see the difference though I totally agree.

-Nick

Nick,

Are you still running the Apex-i foam filter? I am assuming you are but can't tell from the updates you have given.

If you are: Get it off now, or plan on a new MAF soon. If you remove it you will probably already see a bunch of blue 'furballs' in the MAF from the cone disintegrating.

My turbo feed pipe is plumbed into the stock airbox with 3" ducting from the airbox inlet to the brake duct on the front bumper. I use stock paper filters which get changed every 3000 miles with the oil filter. No performance degradation (from a K&N or other such which I do not trust given the flimsy MAFs we have on these cars) and completely reliable MAF life. Much cheaper than replacing the MAF!

[This message has been edited by Mike Jerry (edited October 09, 2000).]

Hey Mike,
Thanks for the warning, but I have a TEC-II and my MAF is really just still in there because I needed the mount for the Apex filter.

I am intending on going back to the stock airbox, just need to get motivated enough to do it... plus the Apex really does look nice in there.

UPDATE:
I finally got the new EGT probe installed last night (and it was the probe that went bad on me). Autometer was more than helpful about the whole situation and the old one is on it's way to them for replacement, course I didn't want to take the old one out until I got a new one to replace with so I ordered one from Summit Racing... they were #1 really helpful, #2 fast for delivery, #3 open 24/7 for orders so crazy people like me who want to order an EGT probe at 2am can! I called carparts.com first, but they don't offer any faster shipping methods and the last thing I ordered from them went to Oregon before it arrived at my door in Florida.

-Nick

This might help alot of the turbo installation questions on a 2.5RS we've have lately.

-Nick