G'Day People,
I have 15 Yrs Experience with the Subaru Brand over here.
I am recently 'Off the Tools' but have a fairly comprehensive knowledge base on Models from 1979 to 2003, (Aus Delivered/Jap Spec Only).
Happy to share and learn.

Cheers!

Sixpack Subaru.

ok
is there a difference between the ~90-94 legacy GT (ej20) and the same period Legacy RS Cam profile

any thoughts about making HLA quiter

how about the part number for the turn signals in a ver 1-4 bumper
or the side vents in a 1-3 hood

As far as i am aware, there is no difference between the profiles you mentioned, you do mean the EJ20TT when talking GT? RS's 'I think' had a larger lift,(but don't quote me!!)
I am assuming you have a later model EJ20T with Lifter/Lash Adj noise?
Two fixes for this, (IF it is lifters and not an oil pressure problem caused by loose oil pump backing plate screws), the tooling used for the oil galleries was worn and most 93-on EJ20's with HLA had this fault. The fix is to open up the oil galleries in the Cyl Head,(consult your repairer). As far as part numbers go, I'm a Tech, not a parts interpreter! The factory fix over here before the cause of the fault was found was to fit WRX Cyl Heads, but I am a big fan of the early units, they seem to be more reliable once the HLA noise is rectified.

Also, you should try some 'Pro-Ma' Lifter quiet...........

As far as part numbers go, I'm a Tech, not a parts interpreter!

Haha, I get that all time.

I just tell them "Ask me, I have all the part numbers, prices and names memorized as well as weight, color, compound materials used, and construction processes."

They'll get the picture.

-paK +2

Haha, I get that all time.

I just tell them "Ask me, I have all the part numbers, prices and names memorized as well as weight, color, compound materials used, and construction processes."

They'll get the picture.

-paK +2
HA!

You heard Pakin, ask him! He knows it all!! :rolleyes: LOL

Part numbers? Nart Pumbers? Purt Nambers? What was that again..... :D :disco:

Sixpack Subaru,
It seems that your knowledge may be a little aussie specific. What I believe Jaxx was asking about was the JDM Legacy 2.0GT (single turbo) and the AUS spec Liberty RS. Since we don't have RHD cars, we have very little interest in the EJ20TT's since the exhaust won't clear our steering racks. Also, we usually specifiy EJ20G, EJ20K, EJ205, EJ207 when talking about the different engines. The EJ20T designation is not only not an actual Subaru designation, but also extremely vague when trying to discuss specific differences between different year and spec engines...

As for parts#'s, I think he may have assumed that there was a good chance that a Tech has access to FSM's for the cars in question. If you aren't really looking to be helpful maybe you should make a blanket offer to help people...

I would like to know what i can do about a tranny that likes to shift into "power mode" (the little green light on the bottom of the dash next to the manual light) all by itself when ever it wants to except when the cruise is turned on and set.

1992 Subaru Legacy 4wd 2.2 ltr turbo touring wagon

Sixpack Subaru,
It seems that your knowledge may be a little aussie specific. What I believe Jaxx was asking about was the JDM Legacy 2.0GT (single turbo) and the AUS spec Liberty RS. Since we don't have RHD cars, we have very little interest in the EJ20TT's since the exhaust won't clear our steering racks. Also, we usually specifiy EJ20G, EJ20K, EJ205, EJ207 when talking about the different engines. The EJ20T designation is not only not an actual Subaru designation, but also extremely vague when trying to discuss specific differences between different year and spec engines...

As for parts#'s, I think he may have assumed that there was a good chance that a Tech has access to FSM's for the cars in question. If you aren't really looking to be helpful maybe you should make a blanket offer to help people...

I dont quite get your last statement there but anyway.
As I stated in the beginning I AM AN AUSSIE SUBARU MASTER TECH.
Your reference to exhausts and steering rack clearance is completely unfounded as Twin Turbo's run two Dump Pipe's, (Regardless of which side your steering Column/Brake Master/Booster is on). Anyway, you obviously have a problem with me for some reason. Why can't we all just get along?
If the person I was replying/quoting has/had a problem, why didn't I hear from them. Unless I am Answering/Quoting you, leave me to it!

Cheers!!

Sixpack Subaru

Sixpack Subaru...I usually don't post in this forum(and will likely get crap for doing so..), as I have a WRX and that is covered in the 2.0l forum, but I saw "Aussie Subaru Master-Tech, Any Questions?" and clicked.....

I think you will find that some people, on this board, really appreciate ANY kind of help that they can/will get....and some people who don't get exactly what they think they need will get pissy and think that because they have been here for a long time they can dictate policy....don't let it get to ya.

Thanks for whatever it may be that you can offer, here.

Cheers ;)

Uncle

Thanks Uncle,
I thought so....funny how some people need to behave in certain situations......cheers for the good vibes!!! :)
I think I WILL stick around for a while, but BTQ, is the any 'GOOD' Forum's that may need some 'Model-Specific'Info? :confused:
I thought that people may be able to benefit from my many years of assembly/diagnostic/development/testing/fabrication etc.....
but it doesn't really seem that way.....
Any ideas??
I could 'Talk Shop' 'till my fingers fall off!! :D
Thanks again!

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

I would like to know what i can do about a tranny that likes to shift into "power mode" (the little green light on the bottom of the dash next to the manual light) all by itself when ever it wants to except when the cruise is turned on and set.

1992 Subaru Legacy 4wd 2.2 ltr turbo touring wagon
G'Day,
when you 'Plant Your Foot', (Accelerate Hard), the auto will Automatically change the shift pattern to 'Hold the gear' for longer, this is what you are seeing, and this is also why it does not do it when Cruise is set as cruise never 'Flattens It!'. IF the light flashes, you have problems(like Check Eng Light for Auto).

Hope this helps.
Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

Your reference to exhausts and steering rack clearance is completely unfounded as Twin Turbo's run two Dump Pipe's, (Regardless of which side your steering Column/Brake Master/Booster is on).

yes and the left side dump pipe goes right through the LHD steering shaft

thanks for help on the HLA

hmm i wonder what my oil prssure is
it only seems to happen when the car has sat for more than a week and happens more in the winter.

both matt and i have EJ20Gs form legacy GT (89-93?) single turbo, simmilar to the legacy RS but with a smaller vf-10

normaly when some one around here says ej20t (kinda like saying ej20det)they are a noob and have no idea what they are talking about, just a semantics, not to be offensive

we have -no-zero-negitive-nadda- acccess to part numbers here that is why i asked
i know that there are part CDROMs but i have no idea how to get ahold of a set

yes and the left side dump pipe goes right through the LHD steering shaft

thanks for help on the HLA

hmm i wonder what my oil prssure is
it only seems to happen when the car has sat for more than a week and happens more in the winter.

both matt and i have EJ20Gs form legacy GT (89-93?) single turbo, simmilar to the legacy RS but with a smaller vf-10

normaly when some one around here says ej20t (kinda like saying ej20det)they are a noob and have no idea what they are talking about, just a semantics, not to be offensive

we have -no-zero-negitive-nadda- acccess to part numbers here that is why i asked
i know that there are part CDROMs but i have no idea how to get ahold of a set
Yes, 15 years turning spanners and doing diag work makes me a 'NOOB'. :D
Yes, working on and with the ASRT makes me a 'NOOB'. :D
We have a limited range of EJ's over here, I'm tipping, (Guessing), that we only got the 'Real Ones', (read:Jap Spec), as you guys have crap fuel and no coolers till what year AD???? :D
Like you said, 'Semantics'........

Cheers!!!!

As far as oil pressure goes, if it only happens when ICE COLD change your oil NOOB!LOL
If not, are you using a GENUINE OIL FILTER as alot of non-gen options don't have the Anti Drain back valve fitted, (the reason we declined so many Factory warranty claims on highway pursuit WRX's!!!)

Cheers!!!


THE NOOB!

And about part numbers....I have three Parts Books Here, (international by the way), and like you said, ZIP, ZERO, NADA, whatever......

No Chance you friendly little bugger!!! :devil:

intersting .. about the oil filter ...ill give her a shot .. blech i hate chaning oil

i don't think i have ever used a factory oil filter in any of my 5 subarus ..it would be illegal for subaru to void a warrenty for that reason here (land of the lawyers)

man you guys need to get off of this guys balls
hes here to help

intersting .. about the oil filter ...ill give her a shot .. blech i hate chaning oil

i don't think i have ever used a factory oil filter in any of my 5 subarus ..it would be illegal for subaru to void a warrenty for that reason here (land of the lawyers)
I hear ya!!
"Land of the Lawyers", is right!! We recently had a change in 'Public-Liability' Laws to avoid massive Punitive payouts etc.....
Anyway, 'Down Here'. Subaru stipulate that 'Any Registered Mechanical Repair Buisness Employing a Qualified Mechanic...', '...as long as Subaru Genuine Parts are used expressly...'
I only mentioned it because I have had numerous cases in the past where this has been the case, (H/Way Pursuit being the most famous/expensive).
Give it a go with the genuine filter, and IF you are able/competent, remove the oil pump and check the Backing Plate screws,(if the filter and oil change doesnt help)! :D
Hope this helps!

Cheers :)

Sixpack Subaru

man you guys need to get off of this guys balls
hes here to help

Thank You VERY MUCH, Mr 2.5RS, (or can I call you 'Whitey'?=Term of Endearment over here).

Perhaps, as you say, I am here to Help, you may be able to help me?
Build dates are still inside Driver's Door?,(Passenger here).
If so, can someone please enlighten me on what the 'Letter' after the 'Engine Family Number-EA-EJ-EG, represent?,(EJ20G for Example).

If I could clarify this, I may be able to provide more accurate info.
Also, can somebody post a Chassis/Vin number on here?,(Leave out the last six digits to avoid breach of privacy), as this may also help.

I do have access to International series Parts reference material, but I would need to now if it is relevant/applicable.

Thanks a heap White 2.5RS! :D

BTW, is the RS 2.5 there N/A or T/Charged?

Thanks Again :)

Sixpack Subaru

na, subaru released the 2.5 turbod on the forester and sti which most people seem to like :)
i put the ej257/sti shortblock into my rs and am in the process of getting it to function properly

Hey Again!
Yakima? Where?
Anyway, I heard a rumour, (from the Head of Training and Tech advice in Aust),shortly after FHI,(Fuji Heavy Industries), had the Model Launch for the STi over there that they had quoted certain power figures and taken deposits/downpayments, shortly after this, they did some testing for the nedia with a 'Media Tuned ECU'and realised these figures were impossible to achieve on the highest grade fuel available there!!
Apparently the first 6 months orders were 're-manufactured' at the north american plant, and fitted with 2.5 cases to allow for the subsequent 'de-tuning' required to achieve the previously quoted figures they had already accepted payment for, (regardless of cost!, as mentioned before, 'the land of lawyers' would not take kindly to being lied to/misinformed!). Can anyone confirm/deny this?

Sixpack Subaru

- i have a tiny tiny hole in my axle boot and white grease got all under my car, and now theres no more in there. How long acn i expect to drive untill it fails or breaks? Is it safe to drive like this?

- i have a MY03 JDM ver8 spec C engine into my 99 RS. When i hit full boost/stock boost 15psi, it feels slow at stutters.vrmm stutter vrmmm stutter, like fuel cut almost? Or pulling timing?

i ran a hose from turbo to wastegate, and now im getting 7psi, its FAST. No stutter or hesistation at all.

mods

walboro 255lph fuel pump
perrin intake
fujitsubo catback
gfb bov

ive already changed fuel filter and spark plugs and still does it.


- the plugs from my engine were PFR7G, 1 step colder platinum. I used a spark plug gapper gauge and it shows it to be at like .038. Why? Everywhere i read says to gap to .028 or .030. Why?

thanks

yakima washington, most northwestern state in the USA
i wouldnt doubt that happened the highest pump gas in my town is 92 that i can find

- i have a tiny tiny hole in my axle boot and white grease got all under my car, and now theres no more in there. How long acn i expect to drive untill it fails or breaks? Is it safe to drive like this?

- i have a MY03 JDM ver8 spec C engine into my 99 RS. When i hit full boost/stock boost 15psi, it feels slow at stutters.vrmm stutter vrmmm stutter, like fuel cut almost? Or pulling timing?

i ran a hose from turbo to wastegate, and now im getting 7psi, its FAST. No stutter or hesistation at all.

mods

walboro 255lph fuel pump
perrin intake
fujitsubo catback
gfb bov

ive already changed fuel filter and spark plugs and still does it.


- the plugs from my engine were PFR7G, 1 step colder platinum. I used a spark plug gapper gauge and it shows it to be at like .038. Why? Everywhere i read says to gap to .028 or .030. Why?

thanks
RUN NOTHING BUT NGK, NGK or alternatively NGK!! :lol:
Bosch are CR#P, easy way to tell?? VW AND PORSCHE are literally 'around the corner' from Robert Bosch Ind in Germany, (Stuttgart), and THEY IMPORT NGK plugs for OEM fitment!!--the defence rests your honour...

As far as the VROOM, stutter, VROOM, stutter goes, I would say that the vacuum/boost lines to your W/Gate Actuator Diaphragm are routed incorrectly, the 'PILL/Restrictor/Orifice 'should' be closest to the Actuator, not the Solenoid.
REMEMBER, the Boost control solenoid/turbo duty-solenoid is just the same as a (Bad Bad Bad), Bleed off type Boost controller, that is ECU controlled in either ON OR OFF, (digital), that is the reason for the aforementioned Pill/orifice/restrictor. IF this restrictor is fitted on the solenoid side of the wastegate acyuator/diaphragm, SURGING, (VROOM, stutter etc), WILL occur.
I have had many, many vehicles presented after collision repair/eng transplant where the so called Technicians have spent DAYS trying to diag the fault, only to find they created it themselves!! :banana:

Anyway, that what it SOUNDS like........
Check it out and let me know. Should be a 'hard lump' in the Vac/boost line after the 'T' Piece in the direction of thge Turbo actuator. It normally simply requires the 'Flipping Over' of the 'Vac/Boost' line if it is incorrect.

Is it just me or do you guys suffer from a lack of dealer support over there???
Anyway, hope this helps.

BTW, may sound like a NOOB but what's with this JDM?? and spec 'C' all about????


Sixpack Subaru

http://myweb.cableone.net/subiekid/vin.jpg

As far as the whole in the CV boot, (assuming it is the inner as it has covered the under-side of your vehicle), it is a 'Shudder-Free-Tripod Joint as opposed to the earlier model 'DOJ or Double Offset Joint'), we had a campaign over here as the OEM grease was found to liquify at higher temps, (nearest Dump pipe-whatever side it is on :LOL:
As far as giving you a Miles/Time frame for boot replacement, Can't be done, more CV shaft RPM, (Higher Veh Speeds), will make the grease 'Leave' quicker, and as such, your question has no true answer, JUST GET A NEW ONE ON IT ASAP!!

CHeers!!

Sixpack Subaru

....also the gap, .038", on those plugs is WAY too big and the boost blows out the spark....gap 'em down to .028" and see what happens...;)

- the plugs from my engine were PFR7G, 1 step colder platinum. I used a spark plug gapper gauge and it shows it to be at like .038. Why? Everywhere i read says to gap to .028 or .030. Why?

thanks[/QUOTE]

The factory S/Plug gap over here is .8mm, (28thou).
1.1mm for N/A, .8mm for T/Charged.
Any bigger and you MAY encounter problems, although a lower Octane fuel would require more to be added? and a as a result, the spark would find the 'Jump' easier as it uses the Extra fuel molecules as a conductor of sorts...

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru

RUN NOTHING BUT NGK, NGK or alternatively NGK!! :lol:
Bosch are CR#P, easy way to tell?? VW AND PORSCHE are literally 'around the corner' from Robert Bosch Ind in Germany, (Stuttgart), and THEY IMPORT NGK plugs for OEM fitment!!--the defence rests your honour...

As far as the VROOM, stutter, VROOM, stutter goes, I would say that the vacuum/boost lines to your W/Gate Actuator Diaphragm are routed incorrectly, the 'PILL/Restrictor/Orifice 'should' be closest to the Actuator, not the Solenoid.
REMEMBER, the Boost control solenoid/turbo duty-solenoid is just the same as a (Bad Bad Bad), Bleed off type Boost controller, that is ECU controlled in either ON OR OFF, (digital), that is the reason for the aforementioned Pill/orifice/restrictor. IF this restrictor is fitted on the solenoid side of the wastegate acyuator/diaphragm, SURGING, (VROOM, stutter etc), WILL occur.
I have had many, many vehicles presented after collision repair/eng transplant where the so called Technicians have spent DAYS trying to diag the fault, only to find they created it themselves!! :banana:

Anyway, that what it SOUNDS like........
Check it out and let me know. Should be a 'hard lump' in the Vac/boost line after the 'T' Piece in the direction of thge Turbo actuator. It normally simply requires the 'Flipping Over' of the 'Vac/Boost' line if it is incorrect.

Is it just me or do you guys suffer from a lack of dealer support over there???
Anyway, hope this helps.

BTW, may sound like a NOOB but what's with this JDM?? and spec 'C' all about????


Sixpack Subaru

nope all the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly for the turbo and wastegate solenoid.

right now i have a hallman mbc on there that is in-car adjustable so i can play around and find out where it stutters. I followed the MBC's arrows for which hose goes to wastegate and which goes to turbo and so both are hooked up right.

it seems like im hitting a boost cut or fuel cut. The engine revs but it feels as if something is tugging on the car from behind when it goes into the stuttering, then it stops and feels normal, then i feel it surge back again.

7psi its fine
10psi it starts to do it a little bit
15+psi its really slow and holds boost fine, just doesnt want to go.

what are ways to make sure im getting enough fuel to where it needs to go?

....also the gap, .038", on those plugs is WAY too big and the boost blows out the spark....gap 'em down to .028" and see what happens...;)

done

car acts the same.

i dont understand why the stock jdm sti plugs would be gapped to .038
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/dcclement85/gap.jpg

Do ALL STi's run idividual Coil Packs over there??
I DO, and SWEAR by it! If they do, and Larger Injectors also, (AS I am assuming they run more Boost?), then that would explain the Increased gap. Also look at Static Compression. More PSi=More Volts Req'd.
Anyway, If there are no accompanying Noises associated with this 'surging', I wouldn't say it was running out of fuel, if it was, it would Ping/Detonate it's guts out!!

Other than that, if you are running some kind of A/Market Management, do a Fuel Gas analasys at the RPM/Load/Temp it is failing, this should give you an indication of what is going on.
ALSO, I have seen AFM/AMM's F#$%-Up only at certain flow rates......
Although 'MOST' of these present fault at idle too!!

Hope this helps,

Sixpack Subaru

done

car acts the same.

i dont understand why the stock jdm sti plugs would be gapped to .038
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/dcclement85/gap.jpg

THAT is the wrong gap tool to be using.....the best ones are the wire type or even a feeler gauge if used properly....and very likely the plugs were improperly gapped by whoever installed them last....

If this problem JUST surfaced and no changes were made, then I'd have to say fuel....buy a gallon of toluene and pour it in the tank and see if that fixes it....if so...then fuel...if not look for a coil pack wire loose/broken plug....ground wire(s) bad/broken....

Uncle scotty you are incorrect in recommending Toluene, it is the number one cause of injector failure over here, (cheap fuel stations use low octane fuel and 'Tweak' it for higher pump prices). I have done literally DOZENS of vehicles that have a 'Gummy Black Buildup' in the Injector Filters, if you get this fault, cut open the fuel filter as the 'loose rubber from the fuel lines' won't come out when tipped upside down or shaken. Trouble with Toluene is people like yourself who think anything that ups the octane is OK. Also, once this stuff has eaten away at your rubber lines it displaces parts of the interior fuel line and being gooey and 'melted' they stick to the interior of ALL the fuel lines, Rail and Reg' included. The only fix I have found, is to change filter every service for 1-2 years, (after removing and steaming fuel tank first).
You aint the guy who said slipping the clutch would fix the shudder are ya?!?

Cheers anyway

Sixpack Subaru

You aint the guy who said slipping the clutch would fix the shudder are ya?!?

nope that is soa (subaru of america) that said that

nope that is soa (subaru of america) that said that

You have got to be kidding??!!?!?

I can almost promise you, that is a directive not backed by FHI!!!
IF it is, it should be in writing, if so, scan a copy and post it here!!!






Sixpack Subaru

I dont quite get your last statement there but anyway.
As I stated in the beginning I AM AN AUSSIE SUBARU MASTER TECH.
Your reference to exhausts and steering rack clearance is completely unfounded as Twin Turbo's run two Dump Pipe's, (Regardless of which side your steering Column/Brake Master/Booster is on). Anyway, you obviously have a problem with me for some reason. Why can't we all just get along?
If the person I was replying/quoting has/had a problem, why didn't I hear from them. Unless I am Answering/Quoting you, leave me to it!

Cheers!!

Sixpack Subaru
Sixpack,
I am sorry if you found my response a little rude, but your first couple of posts in this thread seemed to have a bit of a chip on your shoulder and you got defensive when people asked questions you couldn't answer. Your following posts have been more than helpful and you have a sense of humour to boot.

As Jaxx mentioned we both have Japanese market EJ20G engines from Legacy 2.0GT's, that do come stock with intercoolers. These are not US market engines. While you were not speaking directly to me, you were speaking to something that I was interested in. And that is why I responded. That is how a bulliten board works. If you want private conversations, use PM. If you are gonna put it up here, expect it to be responded to. I am not gonna start hunting down your posts and picking apart your every comment. I too like to see people get along. And thankfully I recently got a parts list for the 1989-93 Non- US Legacies so won't trouble you for that info any further.

To answer your question about the whole EJ20G, EJ20K, etc thing. In addition to what Subiekid posted, part of it is generational.
But generally:
EJ-flat 4
20-displacement
G or K or 5 or 7 is called the division of fuel delivery.
An EJ20G is a 2.0l flat 4 with a DOHC head and mpfi using a turbo charger. K's and 5's and 7's are the same, but some are STi and some are not

To make it a little more clear, in the states a few of the engines we get are EJ251's, EJ254's and EJ257's. The first two are the Normally Aspirated versions, one with DOHC heads and one with SOHC heads, and the last one is the DOHC high performance (STi) turbo charged engine.

The early EJ20's were all EJ20G's. Subaru changed to the EJ20K designation in 1997 when they redesigned the engine and the intake. They later went to the EJ205 and EJ207 designations with later changes and differentiation between standard and STi versions. This is the abbreviated version with a lot of subtle changes and differences between JDM and export models left out. And, in essense you really need all 10 characters of the applied engine code to really know what you are dealing with because in the early years whether it is an EJ20G or EJ20K doesn't tell you for sure if you are dealing with a standard, export market (AUS and UK), or an STi engine. Only the last five digits of the applied engine code or having the complete applied model code from the plate on the firewall will tell you what you are looking at.

This is very important to us because we are often buying front clips or engines from importers, who often don't know themselves what they are selling. If I want to get a certain set of heads or a particular cam grind on the engine I am buying I need to know this kind of specific detail. Take a look at MGFE's thread in this forum as we try and sort out his attempt to find an RS-RA engine for use in his car in Australia. This is why we get particular about such things and the EJ20T terminology is frowned upon as vague and not very useful.

As I said you seem to be genuinely interested in helping and seeing your responses both in this thread and elsewhere on the board, you know your stuff as a wrench. I am sorry we got off on the wrong foot...

Uncle scotty you are incorrect in recommending Toluene, it is the number one cause of injector failure over here, (cheap fuel stations use low octane fuel and 'Tweak' it for higher pump prices). I have done literally DOZENS of vehicles that have a 'Gummy Black Buildup' in the Injector Filters, if you get this fault, cut open the fuel filter as the 'loose rubber from the fuel lines' won't come out when tipped upside down or shaken. Trouble with Toluene is people like yourself who think anything that ups the octane is OK. Also, once this stuff has eaten away at your rubber lines it displaces parts of the interior fuel line and being gooey and 'melted' they stick to the interior of ALL the fuel lines, Rail and Reg' included. The only fix I have found, is to change filter every service for 1-2 years, (after removing and steaming fuel tank first).
You aint the guy who said slipping the clutch would fix the shudder are ya?!?

Cheers anyway

Sixpack Subaru

I will agree that over use of toluene or xylene can be and likely is problematic, I use quite a bit of both and have not had any problms. I don't use more than ~20%(and usually 15%) and it is a reliable octane soultion.
I DO replace my fuel filter every 10k miles, anyway and I will pull an injector or two and see what there is to see.

....and I have 43k miles on my stock clutch and it only shudders a bit on cold, damp mornings ;)

Sixpack- I too appreciate the help - I'm always trying to learn more about subarus of all flavors. :)

But I have to ask - do you start of your posts "g'day" just to reinforce our stereotypes of you aussies?
;)

Sixpack- I too appreciate the help - I'm always trying to learn more about subarus of all flavors. :)

But I have to ask - do you start of your posts "g'day" just to reinforce our stereotypes of you aussies?
;)

No, that's what we say.....sorry.....either that or 'how you goin'?, but that's too much typing for me :lol:

Is that the only 'stereo-type' you have?? ;)
What about my pet croc and bowie knife??? You guy's all know how to throw a Boomerang, right? :confused: No??? :cool:
Seriously......


Cheers,

Sixpack

I will agree that over use of toluene or xylene can be and likely is problematic, I use quite a bit of both and have not had any problms. I don't use more than ~20%(and usually 15%) and it is a reliable octane soultion.
I DO replace my fuel filter every 10k miles, anyway and I will pull an injector or two and see what there is to see.

....and I have 43k miles on my stock clutch and it only shudders a bit on cold, damp mornings ;)

G'Day,
just reading over my last post there.....sorry if I was a bit harsh on ya!!
All I can say about percentages is, (as I have never used or recommended the stuff so I don't know what is deemed 'safe'), is that you mix it, (at least a little), BEFORE you pour it in, as the Fuel 'Filler Neck' includes a rubber hose section to avoid transferred resonance from the tank to the body, also to avoid a broken Fuel Neck leaking in case of impact damage. Do any of you guys have this in writing? From a dealer or Authorised Subaru Rep?? I am sure that if you do, the Factory would like to hear of it. Since I have last posted I have asked our 'GURU', (for all Aus), and he has NEVER heard of this directive, even in the 'States!! Anyway, I change my filter every 25,000kms, (not much more often than yourself at 26,000kms/10,00miles), but I only EVER purchase 'OPTIMAX', (98RON), from SHELL Service/Petrol stations. I use Roil Gold in Eng,Driveline and Fuel, and slap some SA718, (Genuine Subaru Fuel Treatment), in EVERY second tank of Fuel. I have 160,000kms, (100,000miles), running 20 Psi on std 'Cooler and injectors with 3.5" Apexi Exh,
Apexi 'Possum Bourne' Engine Mangement, (3 days on dyno), last D-Tune was 300Flywheel KW. Rebuilt Box twice, (for the Guy who owned it before me!!) Re-Kitted BOTH Diffs to LSD's.

Makes for fun in the wet!!!! :devil:

Cheers :D

Sixpack

Hey Matty!!
I hear ya, (I've read it, I mean), but as far as saying EJ20'G'? Is this listed somewhere on the Chart above? As I have been made aware that certain types of fuel delivery systems are not interchangable, especially when it comes to fitting different types of rail to certain injectors, (injectors mount at varying angles depending on model/eng/year over here and there is no real way to 'Tell' by the numbers over here). I say this as I once fitted an EJ22(? '95), to an Impreza Auto LX, (EJ16 over here), and the Inj's had a diferent mounting angle in the manifold, also, the spacing between the rail and Inj's were vastly different. Firstly I had just 'Slotted' the Engine straight in after swapping Crank Drive gears, (as EJ16 over here runs no Cam sensor!!), bolted Orig EJ16 Manifold on EJ22, and removed and plugged cam sensor on donor eng. The result was an engine that idled at first crank, but presented with a 'flatspot' from Closed to WOT.
I deduced, (from Inj opening time), that the Inj did not flow enough for the job, (this is before the Veh was driven of course). So I ended up, using the std EJ16 Inlet manifold, and spacing up mounting bolts, stuffing around with different inj seals etc, until I got it right. I then ran wiring from the FWD fuse carrier under bonnet/hood to the cabin with a toggle switch on the console for immediate 2WD selection, (even have a nice OEM light on the dash to say it's in 2WD!! THE RESULT????
A little LX wagon, that would eat ANY WRX off the line, and when you flicked it to 2WD, it would literally light up both front wheels until a long time after it selected 2nd!

It turned out to be a fun and VERY economical car to drive, but I'm getting off the subject...... Yeah.....It's all cool.


Sixpack Subaru

G'Day People,
I have 15 Yrs Experience with the Subaru Brand over here.
I am recently 'Off the Tools' but have a fairly comprehensive knowledge base on Models from 1979 to 2003, (Aus Delivered/Jap Spec Only).
Happy to share and learn.

Cheers!

Sixpack Subaru.


Hey, being from the land down under what are the spec's of an SVX down there, also what advice would you give to some one who wants to supercharge one? :cool:

He was soooo banninated!

He was soooo banninated!
Hello Supermarkus,
I am assuming you mean 'banned'? I didn't read all his post, (most of them too long), but what was he banned for?

y the hell was he banned

do a search for his name.

aHAHA i just was about to post that
haha

Ah HA! Found it!! I don't think he was provoked into saying that!!
Maybe he has Bi-Polar disorder??:LOL:
Thanks, I think!!

Joe

yeah i think someone else was on his name or something

yeah i think someone else was on his name or something
G'Day People, (crowd cheers:Sixpack's Back, Sixpack's back..... :D )
You are correct, my *****ty little cousin jumped on when I was halfway through a post then I went for a shower and came back to find I was unable to post anymore, I tried posting an Explanation/apology, but no good. Everythingt is sorted now, he has had his nose operated on to straighten it and his Dad, (my uncle), is making him payfor it!!, (I showed his dad a copy of what he posted at a christening the other day). I am off the hook for the fatal beating thanks to honda slayer!!!

Good to be back!! :banana:

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru :D

Hey, being from the land down under what are the spec's of an SVX down there, also what advice would you give to some one who wants to supercharge one? :cool:
G'Day Baja,
Sorry I took so long to reply, Read UP.
Anyway, I wouldn't go with a SuperCharger conversion personally as the increased Torque delivery so low in the RPM may adversely affect the Trans,(Only Auto' over here).
What I would do is do what STi have done in Jap, (S401), essentially it is Turbocharged Version of the Late model, (98 on over here), chain drive 3.0l six Single Turbo and Sixspeed box with Bilsteins and STi brakes, (Brembo).
You should have heaps of room for the Turbo as no steering shaft to bother you, or Possibly run two turbos as twin throttle body on std SVX 3.3L.
Over they are all auto, (only reason WRX ever had an auto option), all AWD,
3.3Litre, (porsche copy for Bore X Stroke), twin throttle body, sequential injection, climate control, ABS and power everything inc sunroof.
The early 3.3 engine is in IMO a much more reliable engine, it runs one belt driven cam per bank and the other is gear driven. I have often thought of building a 'nice' motor for transplant in a liberty RX or something, (would be nice to fit below tray in Brumby/Brat?,(ute), and use Supra Five/Six speed steel case 'box in RWD only, I think that would be alot of fun to drive.
Over here they are CRONIC for wiring/elec/electronic faults and they are not very well liked, but I have always had a soft spot for them. When all the other car makers were releasing 'concept cars' with the 3/4 window design, Subaru were actually selling them!!! :cool:

Hope this Helps :D

Sixpack Subaru

that helps alot. Over here they are all automatics as well, although the 4EAT that is in mine 60,000 miles new I would convert my 92 SVX into a five speed or six speed asumming I can find a strong AWD tranny/ gearbox and clutch for it. most of the performace places I found really do not cover that aspect of the car :( this is the only place in the United states that I found thatt had any real good performance parts for my car. http://store.yahoo.com/svx-motorsport-accessories/
since there website is not a professional as it should be. I really do not want to buy anything from them, plus some of the more parts that would give better performance are not well shown for. you dont know who made them or how well there built?

Yep,
there is not alot of support over here either. :mad:
There is one guy over here, get this:HE RACES THEM!! he has got two that used to, (not sure if he still does), race in Super Sedans. All I know is that he is located 'near' a place called ALBURY in New South Wales, Australia.
Other than that, that site looks a bit ****e to me. I would rather source my own parts for the 5 speed conv. Anyway, if you need any more specific info, let me know..... :D

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru

hey thank you for your help man.

hey thank you for your help man.
No Probs at all mate....
See how you go, alot of the time I was doing conversions, you get everything off and laid out in front of you, and you would be amazed what parts actually fit other models!! :devil:
Subaru, (one of their mottos is 'symetrical all wheel drive'), carry this over to alot of other components. IF you have the parts and the time, you will be able to make yourself a 'nice' manual conversion, (although I would be inclined to do the whole 'turbo thing' while I had it in pieces). :D
Check out piston sizes, I think you will find they are a 'Subaru-Generic' size.
Exhaust is easy. Engine management would probably be cheaper aftermarket. I am always amazed that I have not already been asked to do something like this in the past as I am SURE it would be the much needed 'kick in the pants' that SVX haters need, (also would make it go as fast as it look! :D ). Get back to me if you want to bounce ideas around ;)




Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

haha... second best thread...

haha... second best thread...
:confused: Say What? :confused:

No problem Sixpack, it was NorthUrsalia that un-banned you, I just asked him really nicely :)

No problem Sixpack, it was NorthUrsalia that un-banned you, I just asked him really nicely :)
MAAATE!!
Like I said, YOU ever need anything, You let me know.....
Cheers.........(Breathes in, leans back and thinks......'Gee it's good to be back...' :D

And I believe thanks are in order for you too NorthUrsalia, so Thanks. :D


I will try to dampen my enthusiasm... :banana: -Whoops!

Sixpack Subaru

haha... second best thread...
Please explain........ :confused:

Sixpack Subaru

After having re-read the post in question.....I thought that something had come about very suddenly and wondered what may have happened......I guess a new nose would be in order :lol:

I'm happy that you have straightened things out and are back to help us lost (mostly) USDM souls out ;)

...and I believe that HOK is refering to the fact that whenever something really dramatic gets posted and someone gets banned...it becomes 'best thread ever' at least until the next 'good' one comes along...:lol: :eek: ...a bit of a joke 'round here ;)

Hey Uncle Scotty, :D
Not 'new', (his old man couldn't afford that), he just got it 'rebuilt' ;)

'Help your souls out...' Talk about the blind leading the blind :lol: I have
always been astounded at how much there is to learn :eek:

As for HOK, I glad HE thinks it was good.... ;)

Sicpack Subaru

YES that's right 'Sicpack Subaru'...hic

So just to get things straight, was it you or your cousin that claimed water injection is bad and that no WRC teams would ever use it?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626538

its been too quiet... I like aussie fire... I wish I could just get one of them women ... hahaha

welcome back.

wow! quite the story. I was wondering why the h3ll you were banninated. You are a bit feisty, but not rude or insulting. ;)

So just to get things straight, was it you or your cousin that claimed water injection is bad and that no WRC teams would ever use it?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626538
No No, that was alter Ego-Di*kPac Subaru....... :lol:

The only reason I could see in my mind for using it would be to up the CR while not boosting?? :confused: :lol:

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru

its been too quiet... I like aussie fire... I wish I could just get one of them women ... hahaha

welcome back.
Yeah, I here ya, I live with one.... :devil:

And yeah, I have heard we have a fire in us that is unique.....(or is that just the women?? :lol:

Cheers, :D

Sixpack Subaru

Im not really convinced it wasnt sixpack who made those posts. I dont care though, I like him, but im just not convinced.

Im not really convinced it wasnt sixpack who made those posts. I dont care though, I like him, but im just not convinced.
You may be right, I may be crazy :huh: , (wrong), wont be the first :lol: , (or the last time :lol: ).....anything else you would like to know?



Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

[QUOTE=Matt Monson]Sixpack Subaru,
It seems that your knowledge may be a little aussie specific. What I believe Jaxx was asking about was the JDM Legacy 2.0GT (single turbo) and the AUS spec Liberty RS. Since we don't have RHD cars, we have very little interest in the EJ20TT's since the exhaust won't clear our steering racks.

No Offence Matty,
but if it was a problem, why would OUR steering Columns be on the same side as our dump pipes?? Further, why would I be able to fit a 3.5" Bell-Mouth Apexi Pipe without any mods to the same side as the 'column? :confused: And if you fitted a Twin-Turbo model Eng to a RHDrive Veh, WHY would it be any different? As I have said before, Subaru are known for configuring more than just 'the drive-line' Symmetrically..... ;)
But anyway....

Cheers man,

Sixpack Subaru

wow! quite the story. I was wondering why the h3ll you were banninated. You are a bit feisty, but not rude or insulting. ;)
Thanks for understanding Matty, :D
when it comes to cars...they're like women, (other than costing a ****load of coin, and from spending HEAPS of time trying to figure them out), we ALL get it wrong sometimes....(read:ME :banana: )

Cheers M8

Sixpack Subaru

Sixpack Subaru where are you in aussie
are you at a dealer

[QUOTE=Matt Monson]Sixpack Subaru,
It seems that your knowledge may be a little aussie specific. What I believe Jaxx was asking about was the JDM Legacy 2.0GT (single turbo) and the AUS spec Liberty RS. Since we don't have RHD cars, we have very little interest in the EJ20TT's since the exhaust won't clear our steering racks.

No Offence Matty,
but if it was a problem, why would OUR steering Columns be on the same side as our dump pipes?? Further, why would I be able to fit a 3.5" Bell-Mouth Apexi Pipe without any mods to the same side as the 'column? :confused: And if you fitted a Twin-Turbo model Eng to a RHDrive Veh, WHY would it be any different? As I have said before, Subaru are known for configuring more than just 'the drive-line' Symmetrically..... ;)
But anyway....

Cheers man,

Sixpack Subaru

Actually I misspoke. It is not our steering rack that gets in the way, it is our master cylinder... ;)

Actually I misspoke. It is not our steering rack that gets in the way, it is our master cylinder... ;)
Heyah!!LOL :lol: LOL!!

You mean like, if you had, the Dump pipe, the clutch and Brake master all the SAME SIDE!! :confused: LIKE WE HAVE!!! :lol:

Misspoke is right!! :D

Cheers Bud :D


Sixpack Subaru

Sixpack Subaru where are you in aussie
are you at a dealer
Sorry officer......are you in the US, are you a dealer? :lol:
I'm not at a dealer anymore but work for a company that deals directly with the Entire Australian and New Zealand Dealer Network for ALL Marques of Vehicles specialising in Subaru. (answer your question :confused: )
OK now you....... :lol:
BTW: If you look to the left when you are reading....you will see where I'm from... :lol: , I aint Hidin'... :devil:
Sixpack Subaru

Hey sixpack

i have a few q's for ya
My friend has a 90 b type Legacy rs type RA. This thing goes hard even standard. What i want to know is-

Is the Vf 8 bigger than the vf 10? I currently have a 20r exhaust housing with a vf 10 front cover and want to upgrade. The ra is on a new vf8.
Are the early legacy 89-91 blocks closed, and wqould this be a good (strong) base, or would a newer 96ish engine be the go. Im in nz and theres a good deal of parts to choose from, some jdm and som nz-new.
Also any other info tech wise on the ra types would be grouse

Thnx mate

year im at a nz dealer. so you would know john

Hey sixpack

i have a few q's for ya
My friend has a 90 b type Legacy rs type RA. This thing goes hard even standard. What i want to know is-

Is the Vf 8 bigger than the vf 10? I currently have a 20r exhaust housing with a vf 10 front cover and want to upgrade. The ra is on a new vf8.
Are the early legacy 89-91 blocks closed, and wqould this be a good (strong) base, or would a newer 96ish engine be the go. Im in nz and theres a good deal of parts to choose from, some jdm and som nz-new.
Also any other info tech wise on the ra types would be grouse

Thnx mate
Hey Bud,
Gotta tell ya straight-up, we didn't get 'em.... so I can't tell ya much... :confused: , what I do know is all 'Early EJ22's", (89-up-to6/94?), ran a closed deck setup and were deadset bulletproof!! :devil: . we NEVER got any Turbo legacy's/Liberty's, (since the demise of the RS Liberty-EJ20 Water to Air IC and only in Manual, later there were wagons added with 4EAT's as a very expensive auto option up until the middle of 94), until .......wait for it...........
LAST YEAR!!! :devil:
As far as it goes over there, from what I can gather.... :cool: , you guys have your pick of the 'good-stuff', (read: proper JAP-SPEC, ie:not even an ECU change!! :devil: ), trouble is, alot of it had a hard life as MAX 36mth vehicle in Japan. What Island are you on? (That will help me work out who you are?) :D

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

year im at a nz dealer. so you would know john
Hey Bud,
Same question, different dude from NZ, what Island are you on?
THEN, :confused: , I might 'figure out' who 'John' is! :D
Any slight 'NZ/Local only' clues??

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

[QUOTE=sixpack subaru]Hey Bud,
Gotta tell ya straight-up, we didn't get 'em.... so I can't tell ya much... :confused: , what I do know is all 'Early EJ22's", (89-up-to6/94?), ran a closed deck setup and were deadset bulletproof!! :devil: . we NEVER got any Turbo legacy's/Liberty's, (since the demise of the RS Liberty-EJ20 Water to Air IC and only in Manual, later there were wagons added with 4EAT's as a very expensive auto option up until the middle of 94), until .......wait for it...........
LAST YEAR!!! :devil:
As far as it goes over there, from what I can gather.... :cool: , you guys have your pick of the 'good-stuff', (read: proper JAP-SPEC, ie:not even an ECU change!! :devil: ), trouble is, alot of it had a hard life as MAX 36mth vehicle in Japan. What Island are you on? (That will help me work out who you are?) :D

Yeah im in the south island in CHCH. My legacy was a JDM model, i have irrefutible proof, i found a 1 yen coin under the carpet. So u said the early ej22s were strong closed deck, are the same era ej20s the same construction? I dont want to go any further with mods without rebuilding it. its done 180,000k;s so i think it may have a hernia if i go to mad with it. And lastly i can get a wrx RA close ratio box. Do i all need all WRX RA diffs? Anything else that needs to be replaced?
Thanks for ure time

nevermind

Actually I misspoke. It is not our steering rack that gets in the way, it is our master cylinder... ;)
Yeah :confused: , like I said over here EVRYTHING is on the same side.......go figure...... :lol:

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru

Sixpack... I'm wiring up a haltech to a modded engine that came from Japan. It's an EJ20G version 2 or version 3 with version 7 intake manifold and version 7 coil on plugs. I presume these coils ground to the heads via the bolt and the 2 wires would be power and trigger. Or are these just stupid coils that know nothing of dwell?

-Michael

Sixpack... I'm wiring up a haltech to a modded engine that came from Japan. It's an EJ20G version 2 or version 3 with version 7 intake manifold and version 7 coil on plugs. I presume these coils ground to the heads via the bolt and the 2 wires would be power and trigger. Or are these just stupid coils that know nothing of dwell?

-Michael
Hey Bud,
not familliar with Halltech.... :confused:
BUT, I am also not familliar with the term 'Stupid Coil Packs', as far as I am aware, they are ALL Stupid!!! :lol: (Even the ones on the 'Plug do what they're told :lol: ). Can't help you at all mate, why not try the Bloke who sold you the Eng Management??? :confused:

Sorry and Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

nevermind
Yep, not a BAD Album......... :confused:

Section8.......?

Sixpack Subaru

FYI, I've found these are stupid coils. In other words it's just a coil. Smart coils contain the ignitor/dwell circuits inside so you just give them power and a pulse every time you expect them to fire.

On to another subject. Can you tell me anything about the TD05H turbo that comes on these earlier STi engines?

-Michael

What do you think about this turbo ? Anything special about its tuning ?
Will you recommand it for a 4EAT ?

hey aussie ~~

FYI, I've found these are stupid coils. In other words it's just a coil. Smart coils contain the ignitor/dwell circuits inside so you just give them power and a pulse every time you expect them to fire.

On to another subject. Can you tell me anything about the TD05H turbo that comes on these earlier STi engines?

-Michael
A:I said I couldn't help..... :confused:
B:Can you tell me, (Before I say don't fit the Aforementioned Turbo to ANY Auto Vehicle-TOO much Lag :lol: ), EXACTLY which 'Coil Over Plug Engine Runs an Igniter in the Coil Pack???? :banana:

Not in the Mood....... :mad:

Sixpack Subaru

a) You may not have been able to help me in this issue but in the spirit of helping others when I ask a question people can't answer, then figure out the answer then I usually post the answer for others' benefit.

b) The turbo came already fitted as standard on that engine. Which COP setup have I used that has an ignitor? I did a nissan RB26 motor a few months ago that had 3 wire coils. Power, Ground and trigger. I'm not sure if they were standard COP units or upgraded before the customer got the engine or not.

Since you're familliar with the TD05H and it's vast lag, do you have any idea what it's power output is? Usually lots of lag means lots of power...

-Michael

A:I said I couldn't help..... :confused:
B:Can you tell me, (Before I say don't fit the Aforementioned Turbo to ANY Auto Vehicle-TOO much Lag :lol: ), EXACTLY which 'Coil Over Plug Engine Runs an Igniter in the Coil Pack???? :banana:

Not in the Mood....... :mad:

Sixpack Subaru

a) You may not have been able to help me in this issue but in the spirit of helping others when I ask a question people can't answer, then figure out the answer then I usually post the answer for others' benefit.

b) The turbo came already fitted as standard on that engine. Which COP setup have I used that has an ignitor? I did a nissan RB26 motor a few months ago that had 3 wire coils. Power, Ground and trigger. I'm not sure if they were standard COP units or upgraded before the customer got the engine or not.

Since you're familliar with the TD05H and it's vast lag, do you have any idea what it's power output is? Usually lots of lag means lots of power...

-Michael
Like you said, 'Nissan'.........(quick mental note......This is a Subaru Forum :banana: ) :D

Anyway, again, like you said, you "usually figure out the answer....
then post it for others benefit..." :lol:
Why don't you just read YOUR post once YOU'VE Figured it out :lol:
(no offence intended, there are WAAY too many variables to talk figures on T/Charger size alone....), but you would have figured that answer out yourself and read it in later posts.... :lol:

Cheers,

(all in fun :D )

Sixpack Subaru

hahahello sixpack
I want to retrofit the DCCD system to my early 90's legacy. do you think i could get the hardware (box, c/diff, r/diff, f/diff) and then somehow just have the split control in the cabin? (without the computer altering torque all the time? ) how else could I alter f/rear split? I dont know much about these sorts of things.... the engines gonna be a minter, i dont think the factory d/train is so good now.
oh and subaru shouldnt have hidden block bolts in the water gallery. they were rusted to fark and took ages to get out :furious:

hahahello sixpack
I want to retrofit the DCCD system to my early 90's legacy. do you think i could get the hardware (box, c/diff, r/diff, f/diff) and then somehow just have the split control in the cabin? (without the computer altering torque all the time? ) how else could I alter f/rear split? I dont know much about these sorts of things.... the engines gonna be a minter, i dont think the factory d/train is so good now.
oh and subaru shouldnt have hidden block bolts in the water gallery. they were rusted to fark and took ages to get out :furious:

Heyah,
The Jap-Spec '99 RA STi 2 Door had an Electro Magnetic Viscous Coupling with a 'reostat', (dimmer switch), on the console which was capable of sfifting torque up to 95% to either end!! :devil: Just remenber to Change your gear oil at half recommended intervals, (and I ALWAYS fitted an 'in case Magnet' in thge intermediate housing of the Trans under the Vicous Coupling to collect the metallic contaminants instead of the Electro-magnet doing it and chopping out the rear Viscous bearing).
As far as the Water jacket Bolts gop, lack of coolant is the only reason for this occurance, I have NEVER had a drama, (but all the vehicles I have cracked the case on have been correctly serviced! :D ).
DCCD means???(what I was just talking about? :lol: :confused: )

Cheers Bud,


Sixpack Subaru

Okay if you're still around I am wondering what the difference between all of the STI EJ series engines are. I want to do a swap, and I want a closed deck EJ20, but it seems they are very rare. So I am trying to find what the difference is between the EJ20k, EJ20g, EJ207, etc...

Hey sixpack subaru, I see you've been doing good work, keep it up. I have a couple of questions though. On my 89 RX (leone) I'm curious about the airbox, some people say to cut holes in it to add some power, but i know it will only add power if the airflow is being restricted. Is the stock airbox too restricting for the engine? Also, swapping the spyder type intake manifold from an XT (first generation acylone) will this change the sound of my engine + add power? Thanks for any help you can give me.
All the best-Victor

Doesn't look like 6-pack is still around, but if he reappears I will have questions too, mainly about old (80s) Sube BRATs/Brumbys. And some hare-brained conversion questions...

Doesn't look like 6-pack is still around, but if he reappears I will have questions too, mainly about old (80s) Sube BRATs/Brumbys. And some hare-brained conversion questions...


Ask away.. whatever you are thinking, its probably been done.

Sixpack, do you have any experience tuning naturally aspirated Subaru engines, and if so, have you ever fabricated headers for said application? I would like to get an idea of what sort of diameter tubing, collector size, etc to aim for. i have a 2.2.

Please tell me the differences in wristpin location on the EJ20/22/25 turbo pistons.

Thanks.

i was wondering what compression ratio you would end up with if you put a 2.5 turbo crank in a 2.2 or 2.0 block with WRX heads. (US stuff) Are the 2.5 pistons sitting higher or lower compaired to a 2.2 or 2.0 pistons on the same crank/rods?

Couple of mistakes to clear up.

1. The TD05H is not a laggy turbo on an auto-equipped car. An auto is probably the best thing to use with a big turbo as you simply have to change the stall speed of the torque converter to match the turbo. Wanna go crazy and fit a turbo that only starts producing boost at 5000 rpm? Get a torque convertor with a 5000 rpm stall speed. Always on boost! A TD05H has very similar characteristics to a VF30 as far as driveability is concerned.

2. DCCD fitted to '99 STi RA varies torque split between 50/50 front/rear with the dial all the way forward to 35/65 front/rear with dial in rear-most position. Still loads of fun apparently.

I believe the rear RA diff is an R180 rather than the usual R160 in the older Legacys which use beefier drive shafts and will only mate to the matching rear hub/rake arrangement. I think you can get your standard hubs modified to accept the larger driveshafts but for a similar cost you can get the RA rear hub assembly which will give you bigger brakes as well.

Cheers,
Ben

hi,
My subaru leone(circa1985) has developed a nasty intermittent problem:
It goes like this....
starts fine runs great but as soon as I travel past three (or so) bus stops it stalls. it's always the same distance. Some times it will restart while rolling (very rare); other times it demands to sit still for approx 10 minutes before restarting; while other times it wont restart until the next day. Generally once it has restarted it will run beautifully for the rest of the day, but the next day it begins again. I've had RAA guys tell me the fuel filter is blocked but when presented to a mechanic the filter is always clean. The nearest mechanic is ....you guessed it...three busstops away, so by the time I reach there the problem is never presenting itself. So I left the car with a mechanic for three days and the problem would not occur he tried everything and then suggested a module in the distributer may be failing but there are no tests for that. I've tried keeping the tank full. I've tried letting the car idle for a while and it sometimes fails then too!! I cant afford a new car. Have you ever encountered this? What should I do?

I had a similar problem when the ignitor module in my distributor quit in my 87 wagon. If that is what the mechanic is referring to, he is correct in stating that the factory service manul (at least my 88FSM) shows no diagnostic testing for that. However, in the US, the 85 (yours) and the 87 (mine) use a different type of distributor, so I don't know how relevant that information really is. Another possibility is the coil going bad and heating up/shorting out.

Are you getting a check engine light and/or any error codes on the ECU?

Hey, I've got a front end noise from my '93 Legacy Turbo (aka Liberty) w/4EAT. Reverse was slipping and I got a replacement tranny from a junkyard. The guy at the junkyard said the transmission was rebuilt 1k miles before the car was totaled in a side impact collision. After replacing the tranny I heard a whining/humming noise similar to wheel bearings. It even switches to each side as I load/unload driving in a slalom. I figure the front diff wasn't adjusted right during the rebuild. I don't have a FSM showing how to set up or adjust the dif. Can you give me any help?

I also have other possible causes for the noise. It took me a very long time to get the transmission in and out of the car. The car did a lot of moving in and out of the garage without the front axles in place. Could this have damaged the wheel bearings?

The monkeys at the junkyard didn't punch out the roll pins to remove the axles. They pulled out the stubs with the axles and capped the holes for the axles. I thought they might have left one of the spring clips in the transmission. I drove the car several miles and drained the fluid but no metal shards came out. So I think I'm safe there. I just thought I'd mention it so you'd have a complete history of the install.

Thanks for your help.
If you need any help with Lexus cars let me know. I'm a Lexus tech. ;)

Pete

OK, here's a question for you. What is the flow rate of the grey top injectors that came OEM on the EJ20G and early wrx's ? 380cc or 440cc? There is an on going debate over this here state side. We think they're 440cc but the AUS/NZ guys have said they're in fact only 380cc. So which is it, do you know? TIA.

OK, here's a question for you. What is the flow rate of the grey top injectors that came OEM on the EJ20G and early wrx's ? 380cc or 440cc? There is an on going debate over this here state side. We think they're 440cc but the AUS/NZ guys have said they're in fact only 380cc. So which is it, do you know? TIA.


Screw that, just get the new STI yellow top injectors.

Screw that, just get the new STI yellow top injectors.


That's not the point. I know there are other option out there, it's just that a lot of greys off older EJ20G's have been coming up for sale lately and there is confusion as to what their actual flow rate is.

matt if this is about the injectors for sale over on lco thoes are 440. reason there are grey 380 is because the legacy/liberty grey top injector was 380 but the motor also carried the "g" designation. the ones for sale came off of an sti which had the 16g turbo on it as well as the signature red manifolds. thoes are 440's.

Hi all. I have a 1994 GT Legacy wagon (Twin Turbo) and have recently had a 2.5" exhaust system put on it and the cat removed. I took it out of the shop and went down the motorway and its now boosting 16 pound but it serges once it hits 16. Only mods done to it is the exhaust and mushroom air filter. Is 16 pound boost to much on the twin turbo legacys?...I dont want the turbos blowing :/. Was also wondering why there is so much increase in boost as bog standard it was only doing 10 pound.

Ive put the factory air filter back on and reset the ecu but its still serging. I can only put my foot about 2/3's down and it serges. First turbo peaks at about 12 pound but once the second turbo kicks in it hits 16 and thats when the serging happens. Anybody have any ideas on why this is happening?.

By surging do you mean the engine cuts out and then comes back strong for a few more seconds, then cuts out again and so on? If so, that is overboost induced fuel cut.

Yeah it seems to be the second turbo is running too much boost but i cant understand why as ive only had the exhaust modifyed. Is there any way to turn the boost down on the second turbo?. Also do you know how much boost it should be running?. Cheers

Hi,

I've got an 89 L series touring wagon and have had noisy lifters, i have taken off the cam boxes to get to the lifters and have taken off the belts and pullys on the front aswell. The left hand idoler is noisy when spunn and one of my friends who is a mechanic recomends that i change it while ive got the front off.

My problem: The idoler is expensive, upwards of $200 Can this be right? Its only a little bit of metal with a wheel on it!!

I have had a look but it looks like its sealed ( i was hoping that there was a bearing that i could just replace).

Any help would be apreciated,
Thanks.

Are you referring to the the tensioner pulley for the timing belt?

Those run about $50 from 1stsubaruparts.com for factory OEM replacement

Yeah, thats it. Im in Australia though so my mechanic friend thinks he can press it apart and replace the bearing so ill try that but 1stsubaruparts sounds like a good plan b.
Thanks for your help Calebz, much apreciated.

Also while im here, i have a fairly big oil leak that seems to be pooling and dripping from the crash plate cover thing (like my use of technical terms ;) ) Are there any known causes of this or any problems prone to subarus?

Thanks again,
Passenger.

So I have a ej22t closed deck block. and want to
make it into a 2.5. which crank (forged) will work?
I am gong to get aftermarket rods & pistons (forged).
Using usdm wrx head (which will be ported & polished)
1 mm oversized valves, v8 type c cams, the usual goodies
for the valve train.

any advice will me greatly appreciated.

Thank
Ben

Do you know what size injectors came on the N/A phase 2 EJ20? Thanks.

hello mate, I have a problem you may be able to help with. i have a 1996 version 3 wrx/sti with an ej20 turbo. It has an aftermarket boost controller. I keep getting a fault code that says the boost solenoid(wastegate) controller is bad. The car will rev but the rpms are limited to 4500 by some fault mode. Is this normal for it too limit at 4500rpm if the BCS is bad?
Thanks
Chad

hello mate, I have a problem you may be able to help with. i have a 1996 version 3 wrx/sti with an ej20 turbo. It has an aftermarket boost controller. I keep getting a fault code that says the boost solenoid(wastegate) controller is bad. The car will rev but the rpms are limited to 4500 by some fault mode. Is this normal for it too limit at 4500rpm if the BCS is bad?
Thanks
Chad

Dude, plug a resistor into the stock boost controller plug and you should be fine.

hello mate, I have a problem you may be able to help with. i have a 1996 version 3 wrx/sti with an ej20 turbo. It has an aftermarket boost controller. I keep getting a fault code that says the boost solenoid(wastegate) controller is bad. The car will rev but the rpms are limited to 4500 by some fault mode. Is this normal for it too limit at 4500rpm if the BCS is bad?
Thanks
Chad
What boost are you running? I've hit boost cut on my WRX and the fault code that was thrown up was "faulty boost solenoid". It wasn't really the boost solenoid, it was a nasty spike from the manual boost controller (bleed valve) that I was running.

...Ben

well stock boost i guess but when I plug in the green diagnostic plugs, the engine revs all they up? When you say the bleed valve, do you mean the stock blow off valve? ALSO, now i come to think of it, when I reset the ECU(GEMS) it will run for a few minutes when I am driving it hard(High boost) then the fault returns and the 4500 limit comes about. Any ideas?
thanks
chad

Dude, plug a resistor into the stock boost controller plug and you should be fine.

how do you do that and what resistor are we talking about?

My turn

Dear mr sixpack subaru

Do you have any experience with rear plated diffs?

I know there is a procedure of re-arranging plates to get the diff to lock up more (used on group N cars)

I know this is rally specific but worth asking.

I wont be mad if you don't know the answer ;) .

Greg

well stock boost i guess but when I plug in the green diagnostic plugs, the engine revs all they up? When you say the bleed valve, do you mean the stock blow off valve? ALSO, now i come to think of it, when I reset the ECU(GEMS) it will run for a few minutes when I am driving it hard(High boost) then the fault returns and the 4500 limit comes about. Any ideas?
thanks
chad
By bleed valve I mean a manual boost controller. Mine's a TurboXS but heaps of companies make them. These are a cheap and easy way to adjust the boost level and while they are quite effective, they can spike a bit in cold weather which can make the ECU throw up a "boost solenoid" CEL.

If this is happening with a stock car then I'm buggered if I know what it could be. Might be time to get to a dealer or Subaru workshop.

So I have a ej22t closed deck block. and want to
make it into a 2.5. which crank (forged) will work?
I am gong to get aftermarket rods & pistons (forged).
Using usdm wrx head (which will be ported & polished)
1 mm oversized valves, v8 type c cams, the usual goodies
for the valve train.

any advice will me greatly appreciated.

Thank
Ben

hello?..
anyone there?

Ben,

You can use the 2.5L crank in your 2.2L block but you won't get 2.5L displacement as your bore is not as large as the 2.5L block. Axis do a short engine very much like this. Very nice setup.

See here:
http://www.axispowerracing.net/motor235.html

You wouldn't happen to have a spare EJ22 lying around would you? ;)

...Ben

Ok question, do you know what car the ej20t (early version from like 89-93) was in here in America? I am looking for vf10's but can't seem to find any here. I need a turbo with the same size exhaust wheel at least. Thanks.

Not sure if I should ask here here it goes.

I'm getting stuttering and backfire at least at 4k and over and at WOT. Sometimes it's just at half throtle, but it seems that happens after the WOT runs. Just wondering if there are any ideas that I can possibly look into. btw I have EJ20G with a 16G and U8 ECU, using NGK PFR7B gapped to .7mm and fuel pump is a walbro. It's basically bone stock.

Eric

Ok question, do you know what car the ej20t (early version from like 89-93) was in here in America? I am looking for vf10's but can't seem to find any here. I need a turbo with the same size exhaust wheel at least. Thanks.
Hey Bugs,

I know the VF10 came on Jap-spec auto Legacy GTs. Not sure if that's much help but if you're stuck that might help you source one from a Jap parts importer.

...Ben

Ben,
my friend also has a 91~92 legacy, he might sell the motor.
I'll check and ask for you.

thanks for the information about the rods & crank.
I already have 99.5mm pistons and getting the block
sleeved for the pistons. cryo treated & ceramic coated piston.

Ben



Ben,

You can use the 2.5L crank in your 2.2L block but you won't get 2.5L displacement as your bore is not as large as the 2.5L block. Axis do a short engine very much like this. Very nice setup.

See here:
http://www.axispowerracing.net/motor235.html

You wouldn't happen to have a spare EJ22 lying around would you? ;)

...Ben

I don`t know if you will be able to help but here goes!
I recently bought two alleged WRX RA gearboxes then came into possesion of an RA box from a jap import. so far so good. The problem i have is that all three boxes have different ID codes, how can i find out if they are genuine Ra boxes? I would also like to find out what ratios each box has. The IDcodes read 92-TY752VB3DA & EF-TY752VB3AA. The third code is unreadable. Any help would be greatly appreciated as im rather new to these Subaru cars. :confused:

Sharky55 - Here's are the results I found. It looks like only one of them is an RA gear box.

JDM Impreza WRX RA MY94 TY752VB3DA 3.454 2.333 1.750 1.354 0.972 3.416 1.000 4.111 Viscous (4kgf) Open Double-cone 2nd synchro added (all turbo Impreza)


JDM Impreza WRX MY93 TY752VB3AA 3.454 2.062 1.448 1.088 0.825 3.416 1.000 4.111 Viscous (4kgf) Open



Here's my source of info. http://rallispec.com/Transmission%20chart.htm

Ben,
my friend also has a 91~92 legacy, he might sell the motor.
I'll check and ask for you.
Thanks Ben. Keep me posted.

Thanks chewy, i was beggining to think i was gonna have to strip them all down &start counting teeth!!!!!!! :)

Ok question, do you know what car the ej20t (early version from like 89-93) was in here in America? I am looking for vf10's but can't seem to find any here. I need a turbo with the same size exhaust wheel at least. Thanks.

No EJ20 turbo cars in the US in the early 90s. Closest thing would be the 91-94 Legacy turbo. IIRS, they used a VF11.

Sharky55 - NP.

Thanks Ben. Keep me posted.

pm'ed you a link.

I too am going the 2.2L to 2.5L route, and was told that I would need to use a older phase I crank due to the 2.2L being a center thrust bearing crank? This is true right? Unless I paid to have the block machined to accept a rear thrust crank?

Thanks



Josh

got any fixes or explanations for clutch shudder?

I've heard 20 different stories here about the cause of it or how to "fix" it.
My stock clutch shuddered. My exedy cluch and Flywheel shudder.

Ironically...they dont seem to shudder in reverse backing out in the morning, only in 1st gear. :o

hello there Assuie master
i have these Ej20G heads from japan and i have no valve cover caskets what so ever. since these heads are only available by inport, there is not a market for replacement parts.so my question is where can i get the gaskets? and i am not sure what year they are.
any help if possible is greatly appreciated
thanks
andrew

If you are in the USA Andrew try rallispec. I was able to order a rebuild kit through them for an early EJ20G so I'm pretty sure they can get you the gaskets you are looking for. There web site is: http://www.rallispec.com/

noah


hello there Assuie master
i have these Ej20G heads from japan and i have no valve cover caskets what so ever. since these heads are only available by inport, there is not a market for replacement parts.so my question is where can i get the gaskets? and i am not sure what year they are.
any help if possible is greatly appreciated
thanks
andrew

Not sure if I should ask here here it goes.

I'm getting stuttering and backfire at least at 4k and over and at WOT. Sometimes it's just at half throtle, but it seems that happens after the WOT runs. Just wondering if there are any ideas that I can possibly look into. btw I have EJ20G with a 16G and U8 ECU, using NGK PFR7B gapped to .7mm and fuel pump is a walbro. It's basically bone stock.

Eric


Same thing here but my setup is a ej22t with a td04 stock n/a 1.8 ecu with piggy back.

Aussie sixpack. Firstly thanks for putting your brains on tap.

Do you know anywhere I can get spicy cams for a 2001 liberty RX in Oz?

What would be a good locally sourced brake upgrade for my car?

Any help would be great. Go the Swans! :banana:

So I got my hand on another ej22t short block.
Ben are you reading this? If you don't want it
it will be put to good use here at the shop.

Ben
aka jaxscuby

904-645-5486..east coast..usa..

So I got my hand on another ej22t short block.
Ben are you reading this? If you don't want it
it will be put to good use here at the shop.

Ben
aka jaxscuby

904-645-5486..east coast..usa..

Ok Guys!! I'm Back, I'm getting broadband in two days and must suffer this sad and slow dial-up connection till then, I have moved house, I have a new computer, job, kids have new schools...... I'm BACK. I have some light reading to do so if you'll all excuse me...


Good to be back!

Cheers

Sixpack Subaru

hey aussie ~~
Hey RONF!,
Sorry I took "a while' to reply mate, but I've been off line movin house and family and stuff... I'm still readin'.... I'll get back to ya!!

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru.

got any fixes or explanations for clutch shudder?

I've heard 20 different stories here about the cause of it or how to "fix" it.
My stock clutch shuddered. My exedy cluch and Flywheel shudder.

Ironically...they dont seem to shudder in reverse backing out in the morning, only in 1st gear. :o
Yeah!! Hello , I'm back, ( and it feels real GOOD! :banana: ).

Yeah buddy, your flywheel is dual mass and should have been covered under warranty for shudder, the new blocks/engie cases rectified this fault by fitting an alloy-steel rear engine bearing carrier for the rear main bearing. (i have covered this in great deatil somewhere). Basic facts are these: the dual mass flywheel was produced by Valeo, (in germany, (Need i say more?)). the units wewre faulty from day one as were the friction plates, (friction plates squealed on hard take-off, flywheel dampener bushes would 'squeak' at lower than idle rpm, (ie:when aircon switched or when manuals driven below std rpm threshold)). Bottom line? Get rid of the dual mass , (if of course you have one??

Failing all of the above, get your flywheel machined to whithin 0.002mm runout, clean all mating surfaces of crank to flywheel, (alot of people leave the excess loctite/threadlock in the flywheel holes and when the bolt is pushed through prior to torquing the dried substanced is pushed out of the hole and jammed between the flywheel and crankshaft, causing flywheel runout and clutch shudder as a direct result, (phew!!) that felt GOOD!)


Hope this helps,

Sixpack Subaru

I too am going the 2.2L to 2.5L route, and was told that I would need to use a older phase I crank due to the 2.2L being a center thrust bearing crank? This is true right? Unless I paid to have the block machined to accept a rear thrust crank?

Thanks



Josh
Yep, as far as I know only an VERY few 2.5's (Turbo that is) made it through without the allow/steel bearing carrier, thrust bearing being at the rear for this engine, and in the middle for every other horozontally opposed engine subaru have ever released!!, (In Australia, Ha! :D )

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

Please tell me the differences in wristpin location on the EJ20/22/25 turbo pistons.

Thanks.

i was wondering what compression ratio you would end up with if you put a 2.5 turbo crank in a 2.2 or 2.0 block with WRX heads. (US stuff) Are the 2.5 pistons sitting higher or lower compaired to a 2.2 or 2.0 pistons on the same crank/rods?
Don't know, (over here), the pistons are not interchangable so I have never compared the pin heights, sorry I can't help.

CHeers,

Sixpack Subaru

Couple of mistakes to clear up.

1. The TD05H is not a laggy turbo on an auto-equipped car. An auto is probably the best thing to use with a big turbo as you simply have to change the stall speed of the torque converter to match the turbo. Wanna go crazy and fit a turbo that only starts producing boost at 5000 rpm? Get a torque convertor with a 5000 rpm stall speed. Always on boost!
Cheers,
Ben

Hey Bud,

Always on boost until you hit second gear?(under 5000rpm??)
The TD05 IS FAIRLY LAGGY on a 2.0 litre, even with all the mods.. trust me I KNOW! I would think that if you had an auto behind it, your injector pulse times would be through the roof (based on nothing but eng rpmXload). Much more effecient with an auto to go with something....'smaller'?


CHeers,

Sixpack Subaru

Hey, I've got a front end noise from my '93 Legacy Turbo (aka Liberty) w/4EAT. Reverse was slipping and I got a replacement tranny from a junkyard. The guy at the junkyard said the transmission was rebuilt 1k miles before the car was totaled in a side impact collision. After replacing the tranny I heard a whining/humming noise similar to wheel bearings. It even switches to each side as I load/unload driving in a slalom. I figure the front diff wasn't adjusted right during the rebuild. I don't have a FSM showing how to set up or adjust the dif. Can you give me any help?

I also have other possible causes for the noise. It took me a very long time to get the transmission in and out of the car. The car did a lot of moving in and out of the garage without the front axles in place. Could this have damaged the wheel bearings?

The monkeys at the junkyard didn't punch out the roll pins to remove the axles. They pulled out the stubs with the axles and capped the holes for the axles. I thought they might have left one of the spring clips in the transmission. I drove the car several miles and drained the fluid but no metal shards came out. So I think I'm safe there. I just thought I'd mention it so you'd have a complete history of the install.

Thanks for your help.
If you need any help with Lexus cars let me know. I'm a Lexus tech. ;)

Pete
Yeah, what you said about wheel bearings, diffs will make noise when you accel and decel, not so much with left to right, (unless your going slow and looking for axle/spider gear noise). Looks like youve shagged the wheel bearings. The only thing holding the Hubflange into the wheel bearing centre race is the CV shaft outer stub axle. WHen you remove this the vehicles load is free to act on the pressed interference fitted flabge and as you roll the car it levers the flange out of the bearing, (a friend of mine did this on a Ford Capri, (Small FWD Turbo Converible, badged 'Mercury?' over there)), ended up seizing the bearings and nearly killing the driver!!!


If you jack it up at the front and rattle up the CV nuts and they actually move the is a problem, you may even need hubflanges now, who knows?!

Hope this helps,

CHeers,

Sixpack Subaru

hi,
My subaru leone(circa1985) has developed a nasty intermittent problem:
It goes like this....
starts fine runs great but as soon as I travel past three (or so) bus stops it stalls. it's always the same distance. Some times it will restart while rolling (very rare); other times it demands to sit still for approx 10 minutes before restarting; while other times it wont restart until the next day. Generally once it has restarted it will run beautifully for the rest of the day, but the next day it begins again. I've had RAA guys tell me the fuel filter is blocked but when presented to a mechanic the filter is always clean. The nearest mechanic is ....you guessed it...three busstops away, so by the time I reach there the problem is never presenting itself. So I left the car with a mechanic for three days and the problem would not occur he tried everything and then suggested a module in the distributer may be failing but there are no tests for that. I've tried keeping the tank full. I've tried letting the car idle for a while and it sometimes fails then too!! I cant afford a new car. Have you ever encountered this? What should I do?

Like he said...!! :D

Go with a new Coil first as this is less expensive...

I can only assume the car is fuel injected?? if not, maybe three bus stops is equivalant to one standard carby bowl of fuel, in whick case I would check out the needle and seat, (of course I would make sure that there was now fuel filter locatedf uynder the vehicle, slightly fore of the rear axle, and the the mechanic was not inspecting the 'fuel seperator' located under bonnet, (easily indentifiable as there are two 8mmID hoses at 45 Deg at the bottom and a 6mmID hose straight out the top!). Failing this, I would need more specific vehicle information.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

I failed to notice that you were in Melbourne, I was just there last week. I tried to drop by STi at Docklands on sunday but they were closed. Is that normal? I didn't see any signs that stated hours of operation.

Hey sixpack! I have a question regarding a 87 GL10 with a EA82T.

A while ago it quit making spark. I changed out the dizzy, coil, and ignition amplifier only to achieve nothing. Today I checked the codes on the ecm and it shower code 11 (no referance pulse from the crank angle sensor). I proceded to follow the steps to find my problem in the FSM's. It said I needed a harness. I pulled the entire chassis harness out today and checked every wire with a multimeter. It is ok for the most part.

Here is what I have.

12 volts going to ECM, Dizzy, and coil. (plug 7 on ECM)
ground has continuity across harness, but not to chassis(possible problem(plug 20))
4 volts on plug 8
and the other 4th wire it said I didnt have to check, but I did anyhow and have continuity.

So what I am thinking is the plug going to the dizzy(crank angle sensor) has a bad connector. I am planning to wire in my own connectors there, and also make a new ground for terminal 20 on the ecm (black wire with a red stripe). That should provide a good connection and a positve ground for everything on that circut.

thanks for any insight. I am stumpped.

I failed to notice that you were in Melbourne, I was just there last week. I tried to drop by STi at Docklands on sunday but they were closed. Is that normal? I didn't see any signs that stated hours of operation.
Hey Bud!
No-One works Sundays down here!!
Sti there is fairly Shiny, not alot of real 'content' though. Some nice rally cars, (the WRC is my favorite, followed by the 22b! :devil: )

Cheers,

Sixpack Subaru

Hey Bud!
No-One works Sundays down here!!
...


Tell that to the construction workers next to the Hotel Lindrum down on Flinders St in the CBD! I was stunned to see tradesmen working on weekends like that.

Hey sixpack! I have a question regarding a 87 GL10 with a EA82T.

A while ago it quit making spark. I changed out the dizzy, coil, and ignition amplifier only to achieve nothing. Today I checked the codes on the ecm and it shower code 11 (no referance pulse from the crank angle sensor). I proceded to follow the steps to find my problem in the FSM's. It said I needed a harness. I pulled the entire chassis harness out today and checked every wire with a multimeter. It is ok for the most part.

Here is what I have.

12 volts going to ECM, Dizzy, and coil. (plug 7 on ECM)
ground has continuity across harness, but not to chassis(possible problem(plug 20))
4 volts on plug 8
and the other 4th wire it said I didnt have to check, but I did anyhow and have continuity.

So what I am thinking is the plug going to the dizzy(crank angle sensor) has a bad connector. I am planning to wire in my own connectors there, and also make a new ground for terminal 20 on the ecm (black wire with a red stripe). That should provide a good connection and a positve ground for everything on that circut.

thanks for any insight. I am stumpped.

Sounds like fun! 'Wiring in' your own stuff is good, go straight from ECU, or where you KNOW for sure your getting the voltages etc you need, then bridge in downstream of your suspected failure point and see how you go. I gotta be honest though, I would pull the Dizzy out, get your trigger wire sorted for the ECU, (input that ECU relies on for spark/fuel/timing), then spin the dizzy by hand and see what happens on the out put side of the ECU, (output that dizzy/injectors rely on to fire). If there is a drama in the ECU, it would be the first one I have seen fail in that way for no aparrent reason. Over here we have a mob called Injectronics and a place called PetroJect that will actually 'Rent' you an ECU, (like a loaner to swap+test!), good service, anybody like that over there?

Hope this helps,
CHeers,

Sixpack Subaru

Hey Bud,

Always on boost until you hit second gear?(under 5000rpm??)
The TD05 IS FAIRLY LAGGY on a 2.0 litre, even with all the mods.. trust me I KNOW! I would think that if you had an auto behind it, your injector pulse times would be through the roof (based on nothing but eng rpmXload). Much more effecient with an auto to go with something....'smaller'?


CHeers,

Sixpack Subaru
I get the feeling that your interpretation of "laggy" is very different to mine. A 2.0 engine with properly set-up TD05 will be on boost by 3,500rpm. This is very close to what Subaru engineers deemed acceptable with the 2L STis we have been getting here since 2002. In fact, a stock Oz-spec 2L STi is not showing much boost at all before 4000rpm. I have made some tweaks to my 02 STi and it can now show full boost by 3,200rpm. While there are times this seems laggy it is a performance car and I find this quite easy to live with day-to-day.

I stand by what I said about autos running large turbos. All you need to do is match the stall speed of the torque converter to the boost threshold of the turbo you choose to run. I think I might be repeating myself but if you have a turbo that comes onto boost at, say, 5000rpm and you have a torque converter with 5000rpm stall speed, then the turbo will always be on boost under full throttle. Your "always on boost until you hit second gear" comment worries me. It doesn't matter what gear you are in-the torque convertor will only start transmitting load to the driveline after the engine is spinning above the stall speed. A 5000rpm stall torque converter will never cause the engine to drop below 5000rpm regardless of if it has just changed into 2nd, 3rd or whatever.

Maybe you meant to say that with the stock torque convertor stall speed you should stick to smaller turbos?

...Ben

Hey sixpack!

I have a EJ20G Version 2 STi motor in my car and was wondering a few things....I know you're in AUS but I figured the engines might be similar. So....In every gear if I put the pedal to the floor the car will rev to about 4500-5000rpm and then the car shutters. If I ease into the pedal I can rev to about 7000 but if at anytime I push the pedal down hard it shutters or "cuts out". Any idea what this could be?

Thanks!

I get the feeling that your interpretation of "laggy" is very different to mine. A 2.0 engine with properly set-up TD05 will be on boost by 3,500rpm. This is very close to what Subaru engineers deemed acceptable with the 2L STis we have been getting here since 2002. In fact, a stock Oz-spec 2L STi is not showing much boost at all before 4000rpm. I have made some tweaks to my 02 STi and it can now show full boost by 3,200rpm. While there are times this seems laggy it is a performance car and I find this quite easy to live with day-to-day.

I stand by what I said about autos running large turbos. All you need to do is match the stall speed of the torque converter to the boost threshold of the turbo you choose to run. I think I might be repeating myself but if you have a turbo that comes onto boost at, say, 5000rpm and you have a torque converter with 5000rpm stall speed, then the turbo will always be on boost under full throttle. Your "always on boost until you hit second gear" comment worries me. It doesn't matter what gear you are in-the torque convertor will only start transmitting load to the driveline after the engine is spinning above the stall speed. A 5000rpm stall torque converter will