Do most of you guys buy that pipe because of its price of because of it beign chromed. I can get a DP for cheap, let's say 40 bucks cheaper, without the chroming. Same or better fitment, same or better quality, would you guys do it?

The Helix is not chromed. It is polished. The color of it will change as soon as you start to heat cycle it (turns dark blue/purple).

mines gold haha
fitment is great unless your mating it up to the stock catback

the cast belmouth and the pre attached wideband bung are what attracts me to the helix...

supra, what oem fitment poor?

Oh alright, I guess I will go with this one then. Cast bell mouth and it also does have a wideband bung. So does the Helix one just look like any other downpipe as soon as it starts heating up?

So does the Helix one just look like any other downpipe as soon as it starts heating up?

yes.

oh ok then I'm getting an awesome deal! Thanks guys!

helix is also ported on the inside i think, to smooth out the casting, fits great, came with an electric CEL fix, i opted for the mechanical one though

the cast belmouth and the pre attached wideband bung are what attracts me to the helix...

supra, what oem fitment poor?

what now?
well I had an exhaust leak with the helix DP mated to the stock STi catback
because of the flanges not being the same

what now?
well I had an exhaust leak with the helix DP mated to the stock STi catback
because of the flanges not being the same

How did you fix the leak?

Thanks

well the leak was a very small one that wasn't that noticable. I eventually fixed it by purchasing an aftermarket catback :)

i just read my question and confused myself...

perhaps i require medication...

my question was about the helix fitment to the oem catback.

looks like you answered it.
thanks! :)

helix is also ported on the inside i think, to smooth out the casting, fits great, came with an electric CEL fix, i opted for the mechanical one though
And also, by ported on the inside, you just mean it's smooth all the way correct? (This is a true 3" BTW, are Helixs' 3" off by any?)

Can you explain the mech. and electrical CEL fix, and why you went with the mechanical? Because the Godspeed downpipes, how did they not require a CEL fix? Becuase of that bung? Sorry for all the questions.

A mechanical cell fix is an extention that goes into the O2 bung. It in essence places the sensor further out of the exhaust streem so the readings will be a little lower. The electrical fix is nothing more than a wire with a resistor spliced in the middle of it. On mine, you had to cut the blue wire going to the O2 sensor and splice it in line. Then tape it all back up. This slows down the electrical current if I am correct which basically gives the same effect as the mechanical version. If I were to do it again I would go with the mechanical fix as you do not have to cut any wires. It simply screws in and then you screw in the sensor. Done!

The Helix down pipe has a flat flange at the end of it where the stock pipe (end of the cat) has a doughnut gasket. By mating this to the stock flange on you cat back you no longer have a flex point in the system. I have heard that many guys fix this area for the short term by running two gaskets. Take a look in the vener announcements section as Daddys (Madd dadd???) is coming out with a new 3" mid pipe that has a flex joint built into it that also has a flat flange. This will allow it to bolt up properly with a single gasket, have a flex point, tapers to 2.5" at the axle flange so that you could still run you nice axle back (2.5") that you might already have. Pricing is to be around $220 for the mid pipe. Or you could go with the STromung that actually has the same stock type design for about $150 from boxer4racing. Personally, I am going for the flex joint version! Hope that helped some!

Are you sure this is the same with STIs?

Anyways, for WRXs, I'm understanding that it is a 2.5" cat-back. But you guys want a 3, you for a true three inch, you would need that 3" DP, and 3" mid pipe, with a flex joint as well, then to taper off to a 2.5" axle back, correct? And also, that flex joint is need because of vertical bends right? To make it fit with axle back?

And also, why would an aftermarket cat back fix that leak with the Helx DP??? The stock DP doesnt hav ethe same flange? I'm wondering what would be the ideal stupo, and please lmk if you are talking about a WRX/STi.

i went with the mechanical CEL fix so that i didn't have to splice in a resistor into the O2 wiring,

helix is a 3", takes place of the stock DP and the 3rd cat (last cat), bolts up to the catback

I'm speaking in terms of STi
the stock sti catback doesn't have the same flange style as the Helix DP but it will work...I'm just saying on personal experience that I had a slight leak

Oh I I understand, but is it worth paying that much to fix a tiny leak when it doesn't gain you anything? I'm glad I can go with this one that is cheaper. Sweet, thank you very much for your help.

are you talking about paying that much extra for the catback?
well I was going to eventually buy a catback no matter what
FYI borla catback sounds awesome w/ the stock look :)