First of all, last Friday I received the CL-61 component system I ordered for my father. they will go in his own car, a 03 acura TL. Many people were suggestion these, on this board and at several others places, so it pushed me to order a set. Feeling like a kid at Xmas, I wanted to try them as soon as I opened the box, and since i won't do the install in the acura for a while, I simply bolted them in my car. I installed only one side at first, in order to comapre to my current speakers, a set of Infinity REF605CS. I instanly understood why I should have given up that endless EQing several month ago. The difference was astonishing. The CL-61, with 20mm silk dome tweeter, sound an hundred time smoother, while having more definition and much better imaging, than the infinity. Beign surrounded by musicians, my ears are accustomed to live playing, and I feel like those cdt's are not far from flawless in reproducing the impact and tone of the recording. Let me say my dad had a large smile in his face when I let him listen to some live recordings of Stevie Ray Vaughn. The sound is so real you feel like you're in the theater. I'm convinced now, my next set of speaker with be CDT Audio

Agree, CDTs are great, particularly for their price, and ESPECIALLY compared to reference-series infinity speakers. Congratulations and I'm sorry (it's always tough when you hear something that makes you realize how much your current gear sucks!)

I like the CDT 6.5 classics I have now but I think I am going to check out the EF-61's.

I have a pair of 6CFs for my mids in the back and they are wonderful. They aren't anywhere near top of the line CDT, but they sound great and would take them over the high end well known brands.

i told you!!!!! i have never been so happy with car audi as i am with CDT. they are the best hands down and everybody should pick up a set for their car :)

Congratulations and I'm sorry (it's always tough when you hear something that makes you realize how much your current gear sucks!)

it's life, you always learn the hard way. Now i'm debating myself if I should first change my subwoofer or my speakers. I know both have to go, but even if my speakers don't sound the way I want, they won't blew. my subwoofer (Alpine sws 1041D) have reglued suspension, and is now in a ported enclosure, wich give me the loudness I want, but not the sound quality. Wired at 8 ohm, it is already on the edged of it power handling, driven by my bd1000a1. if I wire it at 2 ohm, and go in a small sealed enclosure, it will sound tighter, but for how many seconds ?

BTW, I ordered the CDTs from Genuine Canadian Audio (http://www.genuinecanadianaudio.com), wich give me a good service. i also ordered a set of knuckconcept wires, and i'm surprised by the quality. much better than similar priced stuff available locally.

it's life, you always learn the hard way. Now i'm debating myself if I should first change my subwoofer of my speakers. I know both have to go, but even if my speakers don't sound the way I want, they won't blew. my subwoofer (Alspine sws 1041D) have reglued suspension, and is now in a ported enclosure, wich give me the loudness I want, but not the sound quality. wired at 8 ohm. it is already on the edged of it power handling, driven by my bd1000a1. if I wire it at 2 ohm, and go in a small sealed enclosure, it will sound tighter, but for how many seconds ?

BTW, I ordered the CDTs from Genuine Canadian Audio (http://www.genuinecanadianaudio.com), wich give me a good service. i also ordered a set of knuckconcept wires, and i'm surprised by the quality. much better than similar priced stuff available locally.



all i can say bro is JL W6V2. it is the best sounding sub i have ever owned and the quality is second to none.

About every car audio enthusiast has once dreamed of a full JL-system. They do very good products, some of the best on the market, but you pay a lot if you insist on buying from an authorized dealer. This week-end, I helped a buddy to set-up his system. We have the same car, and the same HU. so, same source, and same sound modification from the cabin, make comparison easy. His setup consist of VR650csi in the front, and TR690i in the back, powered by a 300/4. unsatisfied from his front ouput, he got a deal on soundstream Exact serie 4" component system. those are mounted in custom fiberglass kickpod. basicly, the 6" JL woofer is used for midbass, and the soundstream component system take the relay up to the highs. For the setup, we connected the soundstream system, hi-passed, to a pair of channel, and the JL component, low-passed to another pair of channel, so we could play with the adjustement on the amp to set the crossover point. we tried anywhere from 200 to 1500hz, and my friend decided it sounded best around 750hz, with no overlap. so we'll build passive crossover at this frequency and the 300/4 rear channel with get back at driving the 6x9.

the result we got from this frontstage make me realize how good are the CDT, because even with 750$ cdn of speakers , it just not sound as good as the CL-61. the 31-band EQ is coming, and I hope it will help to integrate two different-sounding speaker set, but until that, the simple, well-rounded two-way component system is ahead.

what are you using to drive them? that's just as important, if not more so then the speakers itself

I agree, if you have a high distortion amp, the speakers don’t mean crap.

Have them in my car and love them

what are you using to drive them? that's just as important, if not more so then the speakers itself

my frontsage amplifier is a Phoenix Gold XS4600. 75w rms per channel (4) at 4 ohm. I've been told this amp can easily compare to the JL 300/4 in term of sound quality.

I try to convince people of CDT all the time, I was sold on them back when they were dirt cheap. I had a set of HD-642DTMs in the front and CL6s in the rear in my accord driven by a MC444 and it was soooo sweet. I like the diamond S600s I have in the rex, but the CDTs ate them alive, I would have transfered them into the rex, but not a whole lot of room to do kick panels, so I opted for two ways :(

JL is overrated...

But CDT is good for the price, agreed. :D

Which CDTs fit the front and the rear (02)? I couldn't find what I need on the iaperformance site.

CDt audio does make some sweet speakers and if u know where to get them u woould be amazed how cheap they go for. Just ask mr. blonde :) how u liking the cdt's mr blonde? i havent heard from ya in a while:(

Which CDTs fit the front and the rear (02)? I couldn't find what I need on the iaperformance site.


CDT CL-61s have a 2 7/8" mount depth which requires the IA large thick adapters. The HD 6" is 2 13/16" and the EF series is 2 3/4 so both of those should work aslo Personally I'd go with the CL-61a in the front and the CL5x coax in the rear, thezeb.com has a killer deal on the CL-61 with a miscolored basket(you'll never see it) for $150, or move up to the EF62 for $200 and you can get the Cl5x for $60..

CDt audio does make some sweet speakers and if u know where to get them u woould be amazed how cheap they go for. Just ask mr. blonde :) how u liking the cdt's mr blonde? i havent heard from ya in a while:(

Hi Don,

i love my CDT!!!!!!!!!! however, i am selling my car and buying a new one right now so i will have to pick up a new set sometimes this week. i will talk to you about it over on aim. and yes, i do know where to get them for a very good price. just AIM me for more info and i will be more than happy to send you to the only place to buy CDT from :)

Hi Don,

i love my CDT!!!!!!!!!! however, i am selling my car and buying a new one right now so i will have to pick up a new set sometimes this week. i will talk to you about it over on aim. and yes, i do know where to get them for a very good price. just AIM me for more info and i will be more than happy to send you to the only place to buy CDT from :)

could it be me :confused: ;)

CDT CL-61s have a 2 7/8" mount depth which requires the IA large thick adapters. The HD 6" is 2 13/16" and the EF series is 2 3/4 so both of those should work aslo Personally I'd go with the CL-61a in the front and the CL5x coax in the rear, thezeb.com has a killer deal on the CL-61 with a miscolored basket(you'll never see it) for $150, or move up to the EF62 for $200 and you can get the Cl5x for $60..

cl-61 is 2 13/16" deep, ef series is 2.5" and hd series is 2.75". The cl-61 is pointless when u guys can get ef-61's or cl-62 which are better for 150-165 shipped:)

http://www.cdtaudio.com/hd62ef.htm

This shows the EF series as having Carbon Fiber components. Is this the same one? It shows a much higher MSRP than that mentioned here ?

http://www.cdtaudio.com/hd62ef.htm

This shows the EF series as having Carbon Fiber components. Is this the same one? It shows a much higher MSRP than that mentioned here ?

those ef's all the way to the right the best ones where goin for 195 shipped but those are on backorder and price is going up:( the ef's im sayin at 165 or less come wit the none carbon fiber which all it is for is looks and has 456 xover and 20s tweets but u can get 560's wit em for 195:)

if any of u guys wanna get cdt sets cheap like hd-62's for like 300 shipped ef's at around 150ish ect email me at islandsound1@yahoo.com or AIM djdilliodon

Let me mix it up a bit- I owned a set of the CF 62's, and immediately I noticed something wasn't right. The crossover points are too low, causing the silk tweeter to work overtime, it's very obvious. Those of you who own them, take a listen. The vocals usually sound distant, and just overall weak. Most of this can be masked- IF... you mount the tweeter less than 4 inches from the woofer. Not a simple procedure on the WRX platform.

I actually did a side by side, and got cleaner, more natural sound from a set of Pioneer's "REV" 6.5 components. Pretty embarassing, but true. Currently, I have a set of Boston Pro Series in the car, and the tweeters are way too harsh, even with the jumper at -4db. I've got a set of Kicker RS6's, an awesome set of natural sounding components that can be had for under 200 bucks if you can still find them new.

I can comment on one aspect of the CDT's... strong midbass, and not nearly as power-hungry as the 250-400wrms maximum rating of the Boston Pro's.

Let me mix it up a bit- I owned a set of the CF 62's, and immediately I noticed something wasn't right. The crossover points are too low, causing the silk tweeter to work overtime, it's very obvious. Those of you who own them, take a listen. The vocals usually sound distant, and just overall weak. Most of this can be masked- IF... you mount the tweeter less than 4 inches from the woofer. Not a simple procedure on the WRX platform.

I actually did a side by side, and got cleaner, more natural sound from a set of Pioneer's "REV" 6.5 components. Pretty embarassing, but true. Currently, I have a set of Boston Pro Series in the car, and the tweeters are way too harsh, even with the jumper at -4db. I've got a set of Kicker RS6's, an awesome set of natural sounding components that can be had for under 200 bucks if you can still find them new.

I can comment on one aspect of the CDT's... strong midbass, and not nearly as power-hungry as the 250-400wrms maximum rating of the Boston Pro's.

what is a cf62's? CDT doesnt make a cf-62 :confused: also what xover did your cdt's come with and how much power did u have on them?

I was talking about the carbon fiber 6.5's, the actual number is HD62-CF with the 3/4 inch silk tweets. They were supposedly worth 400 bucks when I got them, I paid around 200 back in Oct. 03. The high retail prices advertised online are, in my opinion, a sales pitch to give the buyer an impression that they're getting a deal. I have only heard of one authorized dealer/installer in California who sells CDT, and they don't sell for nearly as high as the MSRP's listed online. CDT is for the most part, an internet based company.

As far as power, I amped them with a PG500.2 which was 125wrms/ch, an Alpine MRV-420 which was 100wrms/ch, and a USAcoustics USX2100 which was 100wrms/ch. I also tried an older Audison amp on them, never any notable improvement. And yes, the amps were fed a clean 14.2 volts, with a true 4 volt preout signal feed. Anyway, I had the original satnet-456 crossovers, which were crap. Then, CDT advertised the SatNet 560, which was an 'updated' setup supposed to cure the majority of complaints brought about by the poor quality of the 456's.

Absolutely no difference noted from one crossover to the next, other than the fact that they are heavier/bulkier which is enough to convince most people that they are "better", and the tweeter wires don't fit very tight in the oversized terminal lugs. That was pretty bad engineering, to make 12 gauge lug holes for tweeters that use 18 gauge wire. The speakers can be made to sound decent with another brand's crossover that splits at around 4500-5000, to take some of the load off of the tweet. They actually don't sound as horrible when using the Boston ProSeries 6.5 crossovers.

Another thing I forgot to mention- those of you with these speakers should put terminal grease on the connections at the woofer, I say this because I pulled mine out 2 months after installing, and the "gold plated" connections were white with oxidation- I suspect they are brass plated.

Sorry if this seems like a CDT bash to the loyalists out there, even though it kinda sorta is.... I'd like to hear if anyone's compared them to anything better than Infinity's bottom barrel stuff. Like, to something decent like Nak, Focal, Boston, Kicker, or the unlikely Pioneer "yellows"...

i know of many who prefer the cdt hd and es line over boston pro, focal, ID,diamond ect. Just so i can school u a little on cdt:) CDT has been in the business for well over 10 years. they started out as a build house in pre 95 for clif when they where high end and also orion and others. in 95 clif went out of business and was bought out by anaba group. when that happened cdt refused to build speakers for them and started there own line cause after all they where just building it for high end brands who would just put there name on it. CDT the brand started in 95 and is still here to this day. they still make speakers for others who i can not say. for u say to say cdt is not a provin brand your are wrong.i myself have owned diamond hex, jl xr,ID just to name a few and have heard of many that switched from the brands i mentioned earlier. i would recommend u stopping by sounddomain.com and doing a search and u will see for youself the many have done these switches to cdt, and all they have is praise. CDT also stands by what they make not like other brands. CDT offers upto 5 years of warranty service and now offers a 10 year! IF u wanna talk real high end then look at brands like morel, rs audio, phass, brax ect. but for the money its damn hard to beat what cdt gives u.

[QUOTE=SubaruTech707] The speakers can be made to sound decent with another brand's crossover that splits at around 4500-5000, to take some of the load off of the tweet. They actually don't sound as horrible when using the Boston ProSeries 6.5 crossovers. QUOTE]

the cdt 456 xovers are set at 4500hz so that hole tweeter thing being to low sounds like bs to me. the only problem i have seen wit the 456 xover is if running more than 100x2rms there is a chance the tweets will cut out, but thats when u just get the 560 upgrade and its fixed. so if running 100x2rms or less 456's or if more u just go for the 560

Let me mix it up a bit- I owned a set of the CF 62's, and immediately I noticed something wasn't right. The crossover points are too low, causing the silk tweeter to work overtime, it's very obvious. Those of you who own them, take a listen. The vocals usually sound distant, and just overall weak. Most of this can be masked- IF... you mount the tweeter less than 4 inches from the woofer. Not a simple procedure on the WRX platform.


I've got the CL61's, w/ 75w rms, & the 1" silk tweets.
I'm really happy with the performance of these speakers esp. the price I got them at too.
I have the Tweets mounted in the sail panels, and have recently readjusted them to angle slightly up instead of slightly back (pointing to opposite person). The sound was really cleaned up, and imaging went up.
Playing classic rock (queen, or any voices) are crystal clear, with no shrillness. Unfortunately, I listen to everything including electronic music/ techno, and that shrillness/ high piercing sounds are a part of the music. I'm looking to install the "attentuation" speakers (3/4" titanium) tweeters so I can control that shrill when I want it.

I'm gonna next play with the polarity of the tweets (acts like a ghetto time attenuator (Thanks to Raamaat guy for this recommendation) to help with the displaced location of the tweet.

IAperformance speakers are highly recommended (I had cut 4 sets between 2 sets of components) well worth the time saved.

Take the boots off the magnets to gain an extra 1/8" on the back. The glass has a plastic grommet at the closest point of where the magnet is to the window glass down.

Buy some speakers baffles (like on crutchfield.com) and cut the backs off to protect from rain dripping from glass above

I am running the same setup as you but with a PG 500.2 pushing the CDT 6.5 classics. Tweets mounted in the sails and swapped the polarity on the tweets but I still get pretty harsh S’s and T’s at the higher volumes which is why I was thinking about checking out the next level up from CDT. Still like the speakers though…

I am running the same setup as you but with a PG 500.2 pushing the CDT 6.5 classics. Tweets mounted in the sails and swapped the polarity on the tweets but I still get pretty harsh S’s and T’s at the higher volumes which is why I was thinking about checking out the next level up from CDT. Still like the speakers though…


Ah, I think i've seen this condition on the autosound2000 forum called Sybalance (something like that). I the forum I had seen this on was regarding the Rockford fosgate separates (titanium tweeters).

I get this too from time to time, i've gotta just squeeze the time in to play with the attenuator kit and drop the db.
I was able to route the tweet wire modding a coax union w/ an extra nut to mount the tweet, and still be able to rotate it (rotating it up seemed to help with the S's and T's [don't know why, possible moving cancellation waves moving left n right?]).

I heard a set of these, they did sound good. But I love my MB Quarts.

I've got the HD 62z's that I'm working on installing in my legacy. Still decieding on whether to use my JL 300/2 or Buy a US Amps 600x...Can anyone help me deciede?

Ah, I think i've seen this condition on the autosound2000 forum called Sybalance (something like that). I the forum I had seen this on was regarding the Rockford fosgate separates (titanium tweeters).

I get this too from time to time, i've gotta just squeeze the time in to play with the attenuator kit and drop the db.
I was able to route the tweet wire modding a coax union w/ an extra nut to mount the tweet, and still be able to rotate it (rotating it up seemed to help with the S's and T's [don't know why, possible moving cancellation waves moving left n right?]).

Any links for this?

Any links for this?

..or cymbalance (like cymbal crash sound).
..I'll try, it's been like a year and a half ago since i've been to that site.

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=001436

..or cymbalance (like cymbal crash sound).
..I'll try, it's been like a year and a half ago since i've been to that site.

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=001436

haha... I thought that post looked familiar... I posted in it about 3 years ago.

I'm an authorized CDT dealer as well and a VERY avid car audio enthusiast and although I'm biased... I do carry other companies but when it comes to component sets, CDT is one of the best values (at my prices :) ) and overall sounding speakers... it's not just me who thinks this either... most car audio forums now have CDT "love" posts all over them... look at this one and it's on Nasioc. ;)

If you're interested in purchasing anything from CDT please PM me or e-mail me at ross_aikin@hotmail.com
I carry almost everything in stock including the now "no longer available" HD subs and a bunch of the new "limited and very rare" ES subs that were just released... also I strongly doubt my prices can be beat. :)
If anyone knows CDT and what sounds best in a WRX... it's me. :)

hey RossWRX, how are the CDT titaniums tweeters? I ordered my CL-61s with siks, i like how they sound, but when mesured the overal response, i found that the response was dropping quicly after 10Khz, even with the the tweeter aimed on-axis with my rta mic. the silk dome will be perfect for my father, who is a blues/jazz lover, but I feel like I might try the titanium tweeter for my own speakers.

..or cymbalance (like cymbal crash sound).

Sibilance.

Root: Sibilant

Having, containing, or producing the sound of or a sound resembling that of the s or sh in sash. (Taken from the Merriam-Webster OnLine Dictionary.)

Sibilance.

Root: Sibilant

Having, containing, or producing the sound of or a sound resembling that of the s or sh in sash. (Taken from the Merriam-Webster OnLine Dictionary.)

With the frequency I see you posting in this forum (very little) and the word you appropriately corrected, I am going to guess you play the drums??

offset

hey RossWRX, how are the CDT titaniums tweeters? I ordered my CL-61s with siks, i like how they sound, but when mesured the overal response, i found that the response was dropping quicly after 10Khz, even with the the tweeter aimed on-axis with my rta mic. the silk dome will be perfect for my father, who is a blues/jazz lover, but I feel like I might try the titanium tweeter for my own speakers.

CDT tweets in general are more "laid back" than most... so dont be afraid that the metal domes are going to be too harsh.
The response shouldn't drop that fast however... it could be due to the acoustics of your car or even your mic... at that high a frequency so many little things can affect output... just changing the way the tweeter faces can change 6db easily.
However the best setup in my opinion is to run silk main tweeters and then metal dome Image enhancement tweets... for example TW-25s as mains and then TW-19T's as Image Enhancement (even better with the M519T kit).
If this isn't in your budget though... it's personal preference... if you would like a bit more brightness than your dads tweets, try metal... CDT does a very good job with them, however some may still find them a little too harsh for them and have "listening fatigue" sooner... everyones ear is different and each is better for different people... that's why they make both.

With the frequency I see you posting in this forum (very little) and the word you appropriately corrected, I am going to guess you play the drums??

offset

More of a lurker than a poster. Drums? No. Audio enthusiast? Yes. I've been watching this thread because I'm slowly assembling a low-buck, high-quality system for my '03, and the "underdog" nature of the CDTs really appeals to me.

Having said that... Game on!

Didnt read everything, But I've had a set of ES (eurosport) 620's in my car for 2 years now.. I LOVE the sound, these are the only speakers i could ever get to image nearly close to decent in the stock locations. I did drill out the little pinholes in the tweeter grill, but i had that with my MB Q series also. these speakers rock, produce excellent midbass, crystal clear highs, took a while to go back to silk domes, but I wouldnt think of buying anything else.. oh and i have CDT MS 100 in the trunk. lil bugger is also extremely clean. all powered by 2 alpine older style v12's way overpowering them both, but they hardly ever give me lip :)

I sat out for a while on this but having owned a set I thought I would chime in....

I have to agree with whoever posted about the crossover. I had Madisound remake the crossover for me as I went to a three way setup and the difference was dramatic. The tweeters absolutely came to life and the mids opened up quite a bit.

I don't know if it is a phasing issue between the different crossover slopes or what but changing the crossover points and making sure a z filter was present on every driver seemed to help. I also changed the slopes to a consistant 24db per octave.

I bought Alpine SPX this time around and they are very nice...but the drivers are just huge. I am thinking about getting another set of CDT or something with a smaller tweeter so it fits in the A pillar better.

..or cymbalance (like cymbal crash sound).
..I'll try, it's been like a year and a half ago since i've been to that site.

http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=001436

Sweet! Thanks for the link.

CDT crossover's have a crossover point in the 4500-5000 Hz range, while most other brands are in the 2500-3500 range. I can notice this high crossover point on my CDT's cause not very much comes from the tweeters. In addition the CDT tweets do tend to be mellow. If the tweeter output does seem enough, you should try adding an image enhancement kit. This makes a nice difference, especially if your component tweeters are mounted low.

I just installed the CL-61 speakers in my WRX and like them a lot, but they replace the stock "upgraded" speakers so it doesn't take much to be a great improvement. One question about the extra tweeter sets. How have people run the wires back into the car? I tried to snake better speaker wires through the rubber wire boot on the driver side door with no success (even took it apart at the middle). How did you pass wires through (it is pretty snug with the extra wires on the driver side)?

Dale

I've been running CL-61's up front and the 5x's in the rear for about 3 years. I drive them with an A/D/S PH30.2 amplifier. Runs about 75 Watts RMS to each channel. I've been thinking about ditching my rear fill when I relocate my sub, and bridging the front channels, bumping the front stage power to about 250 Watts(probably closer to 220 realistically). I tried it a few times and it sounded great, but I've yet to do any serious sound deadening in the doors, so the rattle was overpowering. I know this is way more power than they are supposed to have, but my amp is pretty clean and I rarely approach significant volume levels, so I think it'll be fine in my circumstances.

RossWRX,

Tried to send you a PM, but your inbox is full.

RossWRX,

Tried to send you a PM, but your inbox is full.

As did I

RossWRX,

Tried to send you a PM, but your inbox is full.

Sorry about that Tronner erased a bunch... you should be fine now.


As did I

Replied to your PM. :)

what kind of CDT's would u recommend for a lot of bass music? i listen to rap/rnb/tracne/alternative