Actually pretty quick. If I change to synthetic oil (around 10K), I know I can't change back to regular. However, is it bad to switch brands of synth oil? I'm taking a trip down to AL, and will be there around 10K, so was thinking of giving their service dept. some business, as they gave me a pretty sweet deal on the car, but I live in MD so don't get it serviced down there. Normally I go to Valvoline Instant Oil Change (I live in the city in an apt. building, so it's just too much of a pain to change my own oil...plus they top everything off and crap like that)...anyway...I don't know if they will have Valvoline Synthetic at the dealership, but I will probably be putting that in at 13500 or so.

So to stop from blabbering...Will it be a problem if I have one synthetic oil put in and then change to something different?

Thanks for putting up w/ my ignorance. :)

changing Synthetic brands shouldn't be a problem, just don't mix non synthetic/synthetic and don't mix different types of viscosities. That should keep you safe....check Cobbs tech articles on synthetic lubes.

-Terry

Actually it isn't even a problem to mix synthetic with non-synthetic.
In the past I've used synthetic for awhile and then switched back to non-synthetic with no problems whatsoever. In fact I've done it with more than one vehicle. I don't know where that myth came from.

Harrydog is right. Synthetic motor oil (at least Mobil 1) is fully compatable with conventional motor oil. I would be more concerned with mixing two different viscosities (bad) than mixing dino and synthetic oil.

Punk

I agree. There is also no problem going back and forth between synthetic and conventional...

Yes, no problem with switching back and forth. If you mix, just assume the properties of the inferior oil.

You can BUY mixed synthetic and coventional oil from any car store...it's called "Synthetic Blend". To echo what others have said, there is no problem in switching between conventional and synthetic.

Thank you.

The problem people may have referred to when switching between synthetic and conventional oil has to do with how long you've run one or the other from what I understand. If you've used conventional for a good part of the engine's life, you are sure to have some gunk built up on the inside of the engine, particularly around the seals. When switching to synthetic at that point, the additives will actually "clean" the inside of the engine and begin to remove those additives. That can lead to leaky seals once the gunk has been removed.

Again, this is what I've read/heard not experienced. This also deals with more of a longevity issue rather than switching between dino and synth on a regular basis.

Chuck b

That is true, but only if you've been lax in changing your oil on a regular basis. A properly maintained engine will have no issues with switching to, or from, synthetic. I switched my 4runner over at 92k miles w/ no leaks.

I went synthetic at 9k. I first went with Valvoline based on previous experiences, but I found that Valvoline gave off a funky odor. I then switched to Mobil 1 and have been with it since. It's a great choice and I don't think you can go wrong with either. Your nose will appreciate the Mobil 1 though.

cminch,

I with you on the Mobil 1 but, I never heard about the funky odor that the valvoline gives off.

Dave

awhile back someone else confirmed that they got the same thing with valvoline. It's not that bad and it was mostly after driving higher in the powerband. But anytime you get a funky smell, it makes you think twice. I switched and don't have a single complaint.

-craig

Any one have any thoughts on using additives with synthetic. I was looking at using Power Up. I know the plant supervior. Here are his thoughts


Mobil 1 is of course about the best oil on the
market. It is a PAO (polyalphaolefin) based product. Our additive is totally compatible with it, especially now since our recent change to highly Hydro-treated basestocks. The problem that occurs with synthetic oils is that the base oil itself doesn't break down but the additive package that the manufacturer blends into it does. This means that the add-pack ends up being depleted before the oil has reached its recommended change-out time.
What we recommend is that the oil is drained, filtered, re-additized and then put back into the engine (new filter) at the regular intervals. I don't know about Mobil 1 but I do know that Amzoil recommends multiple filter changes per oil change. With changing the filter you keep the particulate (i.e.. dirt, wear metals, etc.) out but if the oil's add-pack is toast it isn't doing everything it should, especially with regard to lubricity.

> > Application rates are exactly the same for Synthetics as
> > conventional oils.
> >

Amsoil doesn't recommend additives.

Roger

Unless they are designed to work with a specific product, additives are, in general, a bad idea. Every motor oil is formulated to have specific properties. Those properties are, in large part, derived from the combination of additives the manufacturer uses.

If you add a third-party additive, you may defeat some of the properties for which you bought the base stock. If you add additives, or even mix two different brands of oil, always assume your oil will exhibit the properties of the more inferior lubricant.

On top of that, addatives are mostly just snake-oil.

Why not just buy the Valvoline oil before going on your trip and just have the dealer put that in?

I bought a $25,200 car from them for $23,780. I thought I would give their service dept. a little business.

Our dealer charges $50 for oil changes! There's no waaay I'm going to get robbed for that much!! We have a friend who is a mechanic. I get the oil & filter and he just does it. Nice arrangement. I'll be taking him some goodies soon.

ok... I was also thinking about changing to synthetic oil (~13k)... looks like Mobil 1 is the best choice (but which grade?)... what about the oil filters? should I use standard one or is there anything better?

Laki

Besides I just got the oil changed about 100 miles ago, I don't think I'm going to drive much more than 500 or so in the next 2 weeks. With the drive down there I'll still be way short of needing an oil change. I could probably make it back too, and still be short.

Whatever; I got my answer; it really doesn't matter what I do short of mixing Valvoline 5W30 conventional with Mobil 1 20W50 and adding a little "snake oil" (whatever the hell that is) and monkey piss :eek:. So I'll just play it by ear.

Thanks for all of the great responses.

:)