Keep in mind this would be for STX on a WRX.

Ground Control coilovers, rear camber bolts, noltec front camber plates, Perrin Sway Bars, and Helix solid rear endlinks. With KYB AGX shocks.

or

Omni Power coilovers, rear camber bolts, Noltec front camber plates, Perrin Sway Bars, and Helix solid rear endlinks.

or

Tein basic coilovers, rear camber bolts, Noltec front camber plates, Perrin Sway Bars, and Helix solid rear endlinks

sway bars, definitely!
rear camber bolts, yes
solid endlinks, good idea.
front camber plates, do you really need them? Have you tapped out the factory camber settings already?

as for your choice of coilovers, why did you select those three options versus others?

Due to cost.. Under 800 for Struts/springs...

Well front camber plates due to the coilovers giving you camber so I need to use the camber plates to give me negative camber..

You might be able to buy more expensive stuff if you buy it used..

PM Templar... he's got a set of JIC coilovers for sale cheap... like... ridiculously cheap.

Well I have about 6-7 months left till I get it

Well, you can save yourself money to put towards better shocks by not buying the Perrin and buy the cheaper but identical Progress bars. And I'd look for used coilovers when you go to buy them you can almost always find a set of Tein's bouncing around and a set of used Flex or RA units would be much better than a set of new Basics.

So just wondering the KYB's won't fit? the 04 even with 04 springs/spring perches? So that means what are my choices for stuts?

I'm getting the perrins from a local store for a really good price... (better than most perrin vendor prices)

Well I have about 6-7 months left till I get itSo don't sweat it until then :)

Most people that I know use the Koni/ground control combo and are pretty happy. The Koni's are also fairly easy to get revalved as needed.

If you've got that much time I'd say scrimp & save for some better coilovers that will offer more adjustability. They are going to be one of the areas for significant tweaking and tuning. You haven't really said how often you autocross or at what level you compete at. You know not every National level autocrosser is rolling in money, but most are running similar suspension set-ups -- Tein RAs/JICs/Tein Basics/etc. ($1,200-$2,000 range). That should tell you something.

I wouldn't waste your money on the AGX's - Koni inserts are a far better option for autox, if you want to go the route of strust/coilover kit. The GC coilovers are OK, but most of the top STX cars this year were running pre-packaged coilovers (Tein HA/RA/Flex, JIC FLT-A2, DA coilover Koni's). If you want performance on a budget, I'd highly recommend you shop around for a good used setup - you may be able to pick up something with the optimal spring rates and camber plates, complete & ready to go. FWIW - I sold my JIC's with Noltec front camber/caster plates, Cusco rear camber plates, and a bunch of extra springs for $1,100 total. Without the fancy plates & extra springs, something similar can be had for well under $1K. Also, you could pick up used Whiteline or Cusco anti-swaybars for well under $100. They'll probably be a bit crusty, but will function perfectly well.

-Steve

p.s. And you're correct in assuming you MUST have camber adjustment both F/R. The limited stock adjustments will seriously hamper your ability to get the car set up properly.

But the car needs to be daily driver friendly still.. I'm ok with it being a bit harsh but not too harsh.. What spring rates for GC do you reccomend.. And I still need the car to be ok to go over speed bumps and driveways?

Tough call. Everyone's definition of "too harsh" is different. When I asked the autocross vs daily driver question 9 months ago, the consensus was that 8K/10K rates were optimal for a WRX in STX (I think some people might be rethinking that now though), but that those rates would be too harsh for a daily driver. Well, we went with the 8K/10K anyway; figured we'd give it a try and if it was too harsh, we could always buy different springs. In my opinion, the 8K/10K is less harsh than the OTS H&R coilovers I had for years on my daily-driver 325i. I think the 8K/10K is very streetable. (FWIW, one of the things we did slightly differently than others is helper springs - they may help with the streetability.) Anyway, my point is that it's impossible for us in cyber land to tell you what'll be "too harsh" for you. Best bet is for you to ride in people's cars and then you can determine if it's too harsh for you.

Also, I echo the opinion that if you aren't doing this for 6-7 months, don't worry about it now. The advice you get in 6-7 months may be quite different than the advice you get today. New technology, new models, discontinued models, the extra experimental time. But if $$ is a big factor, my gut feeling is that you'd be better off buying in the off-season (either this off-season or waiting an extra couple months until after Nationals next year), as people take apart their cars and sell off parts. At your price point, you can get a much nicer suspension used than you can new.

So 10k would be how many lb to compress the back springs 1in?

Why are you asking questions about parts for a car that you:

1) Don't own
2) Don't even know how to drive yet?

So 10k would be how many lb to compress the back springs 1in?

They are equivalent to 550 lb springs

So 10k would be how many lb to compress the back springs 1in?

The magic multiplier is 56.57, so:
8K ----> 452.56lb
10K ---> 565.7lb
12K ---> 678.84lb
and so on.....

FWIW - if you're really concerned about streetability, I'm not sure I'd recommend the GC setup. In every car I've ridden in, the GC's provided a harsher ride than a comparable pre-packaged coilover kit. I believe there are 2 primary reasons for this: most of GC's coilover kits use shorter springs than coilovers for the same vehicle, due to the location of the stock spring perch - resulting in less available suspension travel. Second, the damping in the coilovers I'm most familiar with (Tein & JIC) seem noticeably more compliant in street settings than AGX's, in particular. I've also not been overly impressed with the ride quality of a couple cars with GC's and Koni Sports.

On the other hand, the dual adjustable Koni threaded-body aluminum shocks on my SM2 Miata ride great. Sometimes, you get what you pay for. ;)

-Steve

1) AGX's + GC coil-overs + Noltecs = zero suspension travel in the front of your car. Since the AGX's aren't shortened and the Noltecs raise the front so much, you will have to ride at or around stock ride height.

2) AGX's are decent struts and they perform well and are reliable, especially for the cost. Hopefully I will see some of you guys at National events next year with them.

However, if I were to do it again, I would probably be on Konis.

Matt

The magic multiplier is 56.57, so:
8K ----> 452.56lb
10K ---> 565.7lb
12K ---> 678.84lb
and so on.....



Not to split hairs BUT: 25.4 mm per inch and 2.2046 lbs per kilogram
The magic multiplier is actually: 55.99 :)