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View Full Version : Battery Amps??
Crash477 12-19-2004, 02:00 AM I need to know the cold cranking amps of a 2002 2.5rs. I called the dealer today, and they couldnt tell me. Ofcourse the parts department was closed, and it was the salesman, but still. anyone know?
Thanks,
Steven
Mulder 12-19-2004, 07:56 AM 350, if you have an MT.
Crash477 12-19-2004, 01:57 PM yes its a 5MT. so 350 is the "cold cranking amps"?
Mulder 12-19-2004, 02:25 PM Correct. And almost any battery you get from a parts store, even the cheapest one they sell, will likely have more.
Crash477 12-20-2004, 01:18 AM thank you!
Section 8 12-20-2004, 10:45 AM If your planning on modifying the car with something that has a large amp draw or using the battery for a project, keep in mind that batteries only sustain their CCA rating for a few seconds, and you will then start to drain them quickly.
If you are just comparing CCA for a new battery purchase, then you have just found one of the worst OEM parts on any car. :lol: Manufactures always have the wimpiest batteries in their vehicles. Then they charge more for them as well.
Boost-Free Subee 12-20-2004, 10:53 AM although everyone seems to hate the regular battery, I have had mine for the entire length of time i've owned the vehicle (since 8/14/99), have a system with 80 amps of current draw, and never had a problem with it. since the factory battery can be maintained, a little distilled water in the cells every six months, and it should work for a long time. (I also live in a cold climate, where winter starting can be a little trouble.)
Caution: I recommend staying away from certain aftermarket deep cycle batteries (with funky shapes, ahem) some have a habit of self-discharging. we dropped them from our lineup a couple years back, and have had alot of luck with SVR.
Section 8 12-20-2004, 11:14 AM The battery is fine. Its hardly a reliable piece of equipment however, as it will take very little abuse. For less than a $100.00 its an excellent measure of added reliability to any car. At well below zero, the CCA becomes even less, makeing a 350 CCA battery even less able.
Mine stopped firing the car reliably the first time the dome light was left on over a weekend (it was weak) then it just gave up a few months later. A much larger batttery would not have completely drained and would have started the car, and would have charged back up and would still be in service.
Pakin 12-20-2004, 12:10 PM I had my original OEM battery from the time we first bought our MY98 Legover, lasted until last winter of 2003 where it decided not to crank in the freezing temperature. It had signs in a few days ago that I ignored :) SO thats like 6 years for that battery.
-paK +1
Crash477 12-20-2004, 01:22 PM im just trying to get mine checked out and he needed to know the CCA before he could check it.
Crash477 12-21-2004, 05:19 PM well i went and had it checked, and it was dead. The guy said the car was starting off the alternator, then charging the battery. So i bought a Duralast w/ 550 CCA, 7 yr warranty, for $49.99. Now the car starts better than it ever did!
Steven
Mulder 12-21-2004, 06:05 PM Well, the car can't start off the alternator. In order for the engine to crank the battery has to have enough juice in it to operate the starter. But glad to hear your battery issues are over.
Crash477 12-21-2004, 10:04 PM yeah thats what i was thinking. thanks.
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