**REPLY #17 HAS THE WIRING ANSWERS. WITH SOME TRIAL AND ERROR AND SOME HELP FROM COYOTE, THE WIRING IS DONE AND THE APEXI AUTO TIMER WORKS **WITHOUT** A HARNESS** :banana:

Everyone has talked about how easy a turbo timer is to install and I imagine it is as long as you have the harness. Unfortunately for me, I recieved a gift without the harness (for my Apexi Auto timer). I have checked every forum that popped up on Yahoo! when searching for WRX turbo timer install.

For those of you who have their timers working (preferably the Apexi Auto Timer owners but anything may help), what I need to know is which wires do the IG1 AND IG2 get tapped into with the harness. When these wires are connected, one goes into the accessory (12vDC switched) and the other supplies power to keep the motor running.

I found the blue connectors which the TT harness is supposed to go into and there the wires are colored as follows all are black with a stripe: grey stripe 12v constant, yellow stripe, blue stripe, and solid black with NO Stripe (just some gray print).

If it is as easy as everyone says it is to get this thing working with the harness, it should only be a bit more difficult without the harness AS LONG AS WE KNOW WHICH WIRES TO TAP INTO WITH SPECIFICATION ON STRIPE COLORS.

So please, my request goes out to those of you whom do use a harness with your timer. Post a picture showing the complete harness connected and state which wires (stripe colors) get tapped into the car's harness.

I think this should stop all questions with regard to TT wiring. Now working with aftermarket alarms will be a different story. That may be my next hurdle.

Thanks to all.

***PLEASE STAY ON THE SUBJECT and do not add any unnecessary comments to avoid excess thread length or any confusion as a mistake can be costly.***

Don't know if this is right, but if it is, you owe me one (tokl me about a half hour to find this in the subaru wiring book).

That connector under the dash is labeled as "B72" and is blue.

Wire No. 1 = White = Battery
Wire No. 2 = Yellow = ACC
Wire No. 3 = Green = IG
Wire No. 4 = White/Black = ST

This is the lower side of the connector that goes back into the engine bar, I can't seem to find the colors of the wires that get routed up to the ignition in the steering column.

Thanks Coyote. I'll take my dash apart tomorrow and see if I can get something done.

When I get this done I will post what wires to splice into to get the wiring 100% right.

Again, I appreciate the help.

why don't you just order the harness? it's not expensive and it makes the install a lot easier.

if you posted this a few days earlier, i could've gotten you a picture since i just did my install. if you still need a picture, i can possible get you one since i need to get the keyless entry to work when the timer is on.

yes please do get those pics and wire stripe colors.

It is a long story but my wife vowed NEVER to buy any car things for me, so if I have to buy something or modify what she already bought me it will, well, you know............like I said it's a long story.

PLEASE just make my life easier and get those pics for me SAMOWRX or ANYBODY!

Yeah, it's like that.

Probably doesn't help but I got my harness for my apexi tt for around $12 shipped... Can't remember the website online but it litteraly took 2 minutes to unplug and plug the harness in. Hardest part was me tapping the wires to the damn ecu... they use WAY to much electrical tape! <---- that part took a little more time, about an hour or so...


-Nigel

Come on people, I know many of you have your TT installed with a harness.

Post a reply with information that we need to SPLICE the unit in.

Here is another direct question for you: what wire (color stripe?) do I tap into in order to keep the motor running?

On my Apexi TT I found the wire which supplies the 12v (that I take away when I take out my key) to keep the motor running for the preset time, I simply need to know where that one goes. :confused:

Thanks.

Coyote, on wire #4, what is ST?

This comes from the instructions for my Blitz TT so the colors may not be exact to your Turbo Timer.

Wire No. 1 = White = Battery---->TT Red Wire (12V constant)
Wire No. 2 = Yellow = ACC---->TT Blue Wire (accessory)
Wire No. 3 = Green = IG---->TT Green Wire (12V ignition)
Wire No. 4 = White/Black = ST

The black wire on the TT needs to be grounded (there may be 2 black wires, ground them both).

The purple wire is for the handbreak ground. I just grounded this to the same as the grounds for the TT. All it does is override the TT and shut the engine off if the handbreak is released.

Coyote, on wire #4, what is ST?

Sorry didn't see your above post while I was writing my above response.

ST=starter

thanks again coyote. I believe the wiring instructions will work since my red is the 12vDC constant and the blue and green wires from the TT are IG1 AND IG2. I believe one of them goes to the switched 12v and the other which supplies power upon countdown goes to whatever wire will keep the engine alive once I take the key out.

Only problem is when I connected it to the 12v ignition wire, once the engine was running, when I pressed in the clutch to put the car in gear, the starter kicked on *GRIND*.

This is why I had to rethink what I was doing. I couldn't figure out where the wiring went. I'll use your info to retry what I am trying to do here.

Again,

Thanks Coyote.

-Jose

Coyote, I took apart the dash and finally got to the harness. I found wires 1,2 and 3 colored as you said (solid black with a stripe, in the color you posted)

Now on Wire #4, there is no black and white, there is only Solid Black, no stripe at all.

On Wire #3, that engages the starter and the starter will only engage once the clutch is pushed in. I had it set like that and after the car was started, when I went to put it into 1st gear and pushed the clutch in, the starter kicked on and grinded the flywheel.

On that same note, after having all wires connected, when I start the car with the key and push in the clutch the starter will keep running as long as I have the clutch in even if I release the key.

APEXI SUCKS!!!!!!!! With their installation instructions that is. I left them a voicemail and never got a call back, this was early on monday.

Man with this week-long headache if I had a choice i'd have gone with the HKS Type-1.

I will try again and see if I somehow got my blue and green wires mixed up.

I can't blame it on lighting since I have a bright flourescent shop light right on the freakin' blue harness. Wires are clear as day.

Black with White stripe, wire #1 is the 12vDC constant.

I am curious what the SOLID BLACK wire is for? Green and Yellow striped are there. I'll resplice into those.

Wish me luck fellas. The Saga Continues...................I would've gladly paid (or my wife even) the extra $20 if the TT included the harness. DAMN IT.

Just noticed I made a goof with the wire numbering. Heres a pic outta the book

http://www.taumel.com/ignition.jpg

I don't recall the wire colors because I put mine in such a long time ago. Worse case, let me know, and I'll peer under the dash to see if I can see anything without ripping it all out.

Good Luck

Hey Coyote, there is no Green striped wire on the harness coming from the car.

There is only SOLID BLACK, Yellow stripe, white stripe (12v constant), and blue stripe.

This gets more and more interesting.

WHich side of the harness are you looking at. The side that feeds up to the steering column, or the other side that feeds towards the engine?

Alright Coyote. It is done. The APEXI AUTO TIMER is working. I will explain the wiring.

Red, the 12vDC Constant, gets spliced into the BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE.

Blue, the IG2 Output wire gets spliced into the BLACK WITH BLUE STRIPE.

Green, the IG1 Output wire gets spliced into the BLACK WITH NO STRIPE.
**note the GREEN wire supplies the power to keep the car running**

THE BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE DOES NOT GET USED AS THAT IS TO POWER UP THE STARTER.

I hope I finally cleared up the questions about wiring up the Apexi Auto Timer WITHOUT A FREAKIN' HARNESS.

Now, my next mission is to get my AVITAL alarm to turn on while the timer counts down so I can walk away with the car running. NOT OUT OF THE WOODS YET!!

jaciuro

-Jose

I tapped into the BLUE HARNESS which is where the optional harness is supposed to clip into. What I did was shaved off some of the wire sheath/insulation and connected the wire onto the exposed wire.

Trust me. It is much easier to remove the bottom of the Driver Side dashboard than to try and work off of the wires on the back of the ignition lock cylinder. You will see how tight those wires are and the awkward position you must be in in order to tap into those.

PM me if you have any other questions. I will do my best to answer.

Thanks to those who helped me. **ESPECIALLY COYOTE 73176**

Alright Coyote. It is done. The APEXI AUTO TIMER is working. I will explain the wiring.

Red, the 12vDC Constant, gets spliced into the BLACK WITH WHITE STRIPE.

Blue, the IG2 Output wire gets spliced into the BLACK WITH BLUE STRIPE.

Green, the IG1 Output wire gets spliced into the BLACK WITH NO STRIPE.
**note the GREEN wire supplies the power to keep the car running**

THE BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE DOES NOT GET USED AS THAT IS TO POWER UP THE STARTER.

I hope I finally cleared up the questions about wiring up the Apexi Auto Timer WITHOUT A FREAKIN' HARNESS.

Now, my next mission is to get my AVITAL alarm to turn on while the timer counts down so I can walk away with the car running. NOT OUT OF THE WOODS YET!!

jaciuro

-Jose

I just have one question. Does a 98 Legacy GT have the same colored wires? I'm going to install mine tomorrow just hopeing some one can help me out before I start working on mine tomorrow. Thanks.

I would ask you one thing: take off the bottom half of your steering column and on the side opposite of the keyway (where the wiring is soldered) check the color stripes and with a multimeter, verify when there is power.

If it is like what I have read on my '02 WRX, you should be able to wire your TT in as I did.

Be careful! I plugged and unplugged my battery a crapload of times, just to ensure i'd burn NOTHING out.

Everything on my Apex'i Auto Timer works flawlessly. I spoke to guys at BestBuy and they are researching my alarm working with a turbo timer.

Good Luck.

-Jose

with regard to what an Apex'i Auto Timer owner will see once the A/F Ratio feature is working correctly (on the not-so-accurate rear O2 sensor) I have posted what the number readings mean.

when the car is at wide-open throttle (WOT) it is in 'open loop' the computer stops bouncing from lean to rich seeking the perfect (stoichiometric - theoretical complete air/fuel burn) mix.

5:1: Rich burn limit due to excess fuel. Combustion is weak or erratic

6-9:1: Extremely rich mixture. Engine will produce black smoke and low power.

10-11:1: Very rich. Some supercharged engines run in this range at full power to control detonation.

12-13:1: Rich. This slightly rich mixture produces the best power for unsupercharged engines. When you read engine dyno charts for performance engines particularly, maximum power will usually be found in this A/F range.

14-15:1: A 14.6:1 A/F ratio is considered stoichiometric, which is chemically ideal. Theoretically, there's no excess fuel or oxygen remaining after combustion. This is the A/F ratio that the ECU in an EFI equipped car is trying to maintain. Overall, this range is best for part throttle cruise.

16-17:1: This lean mixture is the best A/F ratio for economy. It can be borderline for part throttle, since this lean mixture is unstable and prone to detonation. THis ratio is worse if EGR is used.

18-19:1: Very lean ratio. It's considered the upper limit of drivelability. If the ratio is any leaner, detonation will occur, if it hasn't already!!

I didn't know, so I searched Yahoo! and got to an Edelbrock description of how the Air/Fuel Ratio effects performance. I hope this answers more questions. :banana:

-Jose

:banana:

Finally the Apexi' Auto Timer is working with my Avital Alarm. Thanks to STEVE at the Car Audio Installation Dept. at the Wichita Falls, TX Best Buy for getting my timer/alarm to work together.

I have my Auto timer on Auto mode and it will set itself to whatever time it deems necessary. I close the door arm the alarm and walk away. All as the car counts down.

Steve said all he did was remove the accessory wire from its connection to the car. The only wires connected are the Ignition, Power, O2 sensor and Ground. The ignition wire that supplies power to the accessories was simply disconnected as he said. It all works properly and i'm another satisfied customer.

I give props to Steve. Great Job.

-Jose

was wondering what location you used for the o2 sensor? ecm? pinout location would be killer. maybe a pic too. I know I am asking alot, but would be greatful for any help. thanks in advance

no problem. the pin I used should work on 2002 and 2003 year WRX's. I believe they changed the ecu's for '04.


http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wrxpin.html

this is the website I used to get the right pinout for everything I tapped into.

the Rear O2 sensor is what you will need to tap into since the front sensor uses different voltage and would be completely inaccurate with a standard A/F Ratio Gauge.

the picture in the website was accurate as far as pins to use are concerned but the picture was upside down compared to my ecu (when the plugs were in my hand) take a look, you will see what I mean.

Of course, if you do a search you will find everything you need to know on this website as I did. Some website members may give you a hard time so be sure and do that first before beginning a new thread should you have any questions.

Good luck.

hey thanks for the info, actually i have what i believe is the ecu pinout and actually have it connected to the front o2 via ecm. I believe it is the right connection as the apexi device displays the appropriate signal as indicated in the documnetation i have. Knowing that the rear o2 sensor is a better choice i will change it in the morning. i had just hoped that maybe the diagnostic plug or some other easily accessable location could of made itself known. Thanks for the advice i appreciate it all, i infact have searched very very extensively, infact with what is available on this site it seems good but a bit uhh.... unorginazed to say the least. a Tutorial section (were there are no comments) would be killer, that way searches would be more effective. so those that suggest for a hard time, pass a smile to them and maybe even the tutorial suggestion could be kicked around.

anyways thanks so much take care

no problem man. I try to help when I can because I know how it is to need something (information) and not be able to get a job or install done because you just aren't certain.

On that Auto Timer, you will see the - - - displayed for a while, even after the connections are correct. Once the car has been at normal operating temperature FOR A WHILE the reading will kick in. After the reading kicks in, if you stop at a light for too long it will go back to the - - - display.

The nice thing is that you will be able to use the timer in Auto mode. Your next hurdle may be is getting the alarm and the countdown to work together!!!!!!!!! Good luck with that one!!!!!!!!!

hey again thanks, actually the alarm seems to be functioning properly. due in part from the turbo timer thread i found here. though as in this "hobby" as is too common, the instructions didnt really explain what was needed, fortunatly i have a background with electronics in a dc applications. i feel sorry for many people that are just "told" what to do with very very little explaination as to what its doing and how it works. actually i see far to many threads where something is discussed and glory posters post things like "i did it it works" or "i cut this wire and did that" which is a poor way to perform upgrades to just about anything.

anyways, the timer functions like you mention, but i was under the impression that it would be nearly random, or almost unreadable because it would be bouncing around to sparatic for someone to read, all that ive been able to see is something like 10.0 and --- nothing inbetween those values. In addition there seems to be no wires for the rear o2 sensor as the pinout locations are empty. also, wouldnt it be more accurate to put it on the front o2 sensor anyways? since it would "read" pre cat and so forth. but again thanks for all the input much appreciated. take care
thanks