IowaRS
01-14-2005, 12:29 AM
I've searched and read many posts on how to make the Fog Lights stay on when you go to High Beams.
I tried the mod from scoobymods this morning that talks about cutting the Yellow/Blue wires and splicing them together.
From scoobymods.com submitted by horatio102
Special thanks to horatio102 for sending in this mod.
................................
3) The connector on the fog light switch should have 5 wires going into
it.
a) Blue/White - power with headlights only. Lights up the switch.
b) Black/White - goes to the relay to turn the lights on.
c) White/Yellow – This is the dashboard illumination wire, to make the switch green when any lights are on.
d) Yellow/Blue1 - This is YB1. It is normally a GND, but when you turn the high beams on it has electricity.
e) Yellow/Blue2 - YB2, all by itself at the bottom of the plug. It
is the GND.
After you verify this using the test light and turning the
ignition/lights, continue.
1) Cut YB1 about 2" from the switch. Wrap the end of the wire going into the harness (as opposed to the side going into the switch) with tape to keep it from shorting out.
2) Cut YB2 about the same length. Strip the ends of the 3 wires. Use a butt connector to crimp them together. It's easiest to twist the switch ends of YB1 and YB2 together, put the butt on, then connect the other end to the YB2 wire in the harness. Wrap with tape.
You now have fog lights that will not turn off when you turn the high beams on. They still won't turn on unless you have the headlights on though.
I must say, after researching, experimenting, and studying the various schematics I could find (the best being from the Mitchell Service Manual CD), that mod isn't the right way to do this. I'll explain later.
When I say "this" I mean I want the fog lights on when the headlights are on and I've turned them on with the factory switch.
This gives me control of the fog lights independent of the High or Low headlights, but still doesn't let the fogs come on unless the headlights are actually on.
Here's the way I see the leads at the fog light switch:
The pinout looking at the back of the switch is:
1 3
- 4
- 5
2 6
Keep in mind these colors may only be for the 2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Position 6 is unused.
(1) Blue/White +12 (or whatever battery voltage is) with headlights ON only. Also puts +12 to the Light in the switch that shows the fogs are on.
(3) Black/White Goes to the negative side of the coil in the relay that activates the fog light relay switch
(4) White/Yellow This is the dashboard illumination wire, to make the switch green when any lights are on. This is +12 or battery voltage when the parking lights or parking lights and headlights are on.
(2) Yellow/Blue *This is where the above quoted post is incorrect* This is actually the other side of the dashboard illumination. The way the dashboard lights dim in this car is that one side of the lights get battery voltage (Pin 4, above) and this wire varies from 0 to 12 volts. If this wire is 0 there is 12 volts of potential across the bulbs and they light up bright. If this wire is 12 then there is hardly any potential across the bulbs and they are dim. I discovered this when I tapped into the lights to install my boost, EGT, and FPR gauges.
(5) Yellow/Blue *Above quoted post is also incorrect on this one*
This is a switched GND. This wire actually T's into both low beam headlights GND side and the HI-LO switch stalk on the steering column. When the switch is in the LOW BEAM position this is GND. When the switch is in the HIGH BEAM position this wire is actually OPEN. I believe the voltage that is seen when this wire is OPEN is actually that induced by the low beam filament by the energy going through the high beam filament.
The key here is that the quoted post instructs you to disconnect wire 5 (Yel/Blue) and connect it to wire 2 (Yel/Blue). Unfortunately this only works when the dash lights are bright, because at that time wire 2 is near ground potential. (I was messing with my dimmer switch and heard the relay "chattering" because it wasn't grounded well enough).
To do this right you don't want to mess with either of the wires that go to the illumination light. Those wires are 2 (Yel/Blue) and 4 (White/Yel).
All you have to do to make the Fogs independent of the HI/LO, but still only come on when the headlights are on is to:
-Cut wire 5 (Yel/Blue) near the switch, but leave enough wire to connect to another wire.
-Insulate the wire that isn't connected to the switch anymore with tape.
-Connect wire 5, that's still attached to the switch, to a permanent ground somewhere (wire 6 (BLK) on the cruise control switch appears to be grounded to the strut tower,splicing into that should do it).
-Test to see that it's working as desired.
DONE!!!!
Standard disclaimer, you do this at your own risk in every way.
ENJOY!!
I tried the mod from scoobymods this morning that talks about cutting the Yellow/Blue wires and splicing them together.
From scoobymods.com submitted by horatio102
Special thanks to horatio102 for sending in this mod.
................................
3) The connector on the fog light switch should have 5 wires going into
it.
a) Blue/White - power with headlights only. Lights up the switch.
b) Black/White - goes to the relay to turn the lights on.
c) White/Yellow – This is the dashboard illumination wire, to make the switch green when any lights are on.
d) Yellow/Blue1 - This is YB1. It is normally a GND, but when you turn the high beams on it has electricity.
e) Yellow/Blue2 - YB2, all by itself at the bottom of the plug. It
is the GND.
After you verify this using the test light and turning the
ignition/lights, continue.
1) Cut YB1 about 2" from the switch. Wrap the end of the wire going into the harness (as opposed to the side going into the switch) with tape to keep it from shorting out.
2) Cut YB2 about the same length. Strip the ends of the 3 wires. Use a butt connector to crimp them together. It's easiest to twist the switch ends of YB1 and YB2 together, put the butt on, then connect the other end to the YB2 wire in the harness. Wrap with tape.
You now have fog lights that will not turn off when you turn the high beams on. They still won't turn on unless you have the headlights on though.
I must say, after researching, experimenting, and studying the various schematics I could find (the best being from the Mitchell Service Manual CD), that mod isn't the right way to do this. I'll explain later.
When I say "this" I mean I want the fog lights on when the headlights are on and I've turned them on with the factory switch.
This gives me control of the fog lights independent of the High or Low headlights, but still doesn't let the fogs come on unless the headlights are actually on.
Here's the way I see the leads at the fog light switch:
The pinout looking at the back of the switch is:
1 3
- 4
- 5
2 6
Keep in mind these colors may only be for the 2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Position 6 is unused.
(1) Blue/White +12 (or whatever battery voltage is) with headlights ON only. Also puts +12 to the Light in the switch that shows the fogs are on.
(3) Black/White Goes to the negative side of the coil in the relay that activates the fog light relay switch
(4) White/Yellow This is the dashboard illumination wire, to make the switch green when any lights are on. This is +12 or battery voltage when the parking lights or parking lights and headlights are on.
(2) Yellow/Blue *This is where the above quoted post is incorrect* This is actually the other side of the dashboard illumination. The way the dashboard lights dim in this car is that one side of the lights get battery voltage (Pin 4, above) and this wire varies from 0 to 12 volts. If this wire is 0 there is 12 volts of potential across the bulbs and they light up bright. If this wire is 12 then there is hardly any potential across the bulbs and they are dim. I discovered this when I tapped into the lights to install my boost, EGT, and FPR gauges.
(5) Yellow/Blue *Above quoted post is also incorrect on this one*
This is a switched GND. This wire actually T's into both low beam headlights GND side and the HI-LO switch stalk on the steering column. When the switch is in the LOW BEAM position this is GND. When the switch is in the HIGH BEAM position this wire is actually OPEN. I believe the voltage that is seen when this wire is OPEN is actually that induced by the low beam filament by the energy going through the high beam filament.
The key here is that the quoted post instructs you to disconnect wire 5 (Yel/Blue) and connect it to wire 2 (Yel/Blue). Unfortunately this only works when the dash lights are bright, because at that time wire 2 is near ground potential. (I was messing with my dimmer switch and heard the relay "chattering" because it wasn't grounded well enough).
To do this right you don't want to mess with either of the wires that go to the illumination light. Those wires are 2 (Yel/Blue) and 4 (White/Yel).
All you have to do to make the Fogs independent of the HI/LO, but still only come on when the headlights are on is to:
-Cut wire 5 (Yel/Blue) near the switch, but leave enough wire to connect to another wire.
-Insulate the wire that isn't connected to the switch anymore with tape.
-Connect wire 5, that's still attached to the switch, to a permanent ground somewhere (wire 6 (BLK) on the cruise control switch appears to be grounded to the strut tower,splicing into that should do it).
-Test to see that it's working as desired.
DONE!!!!
Standard disclaimer, you do this at your own risk in every way.
ENJOY!!