ESP STi - What's allowed for weight reduction?

Been reading various threads for a while now and can't come to a good conclusion. It seems like people are lightening up STi's for ESP. I can't find the spot in the rules where it states you are allowed to do this.

Can someone shine some light on the rules for me? I am new to ESP this year.

Thanks!
Justin

I haven't autocrossed or read a rule book in a few years, but I used to run my NSX in ASP, fantasized about what I'd do to optimize it. But my memory isn't entirely crisp anymore. Here's some ideas for the STI, though:

On my STI, I lost 40-45 pounds going to a borla header and GP moto Ti TBE (downpipe is steel). Pretty sure that's SP legal. And about half of it was under the front end (header and downpipe). I weighed everything, but not sure I got all the heat shields and bolts, so those numbers are pretty solid.

If you can do brake rotors, 2-piece would save some weight. Ion Performance quotes some impressive numbers for weight savings. Might get a bit from wheels hoosiers. You can find info on the boards here.

Race shells would be worth a little (pretty sure you can do seats in SP). Stock seats are only 40lbs per side, including all the bracketry and airbags (as weighed by me on a home scale), so you could probably save 10-15lbs per side pretty easily, or more if you pay the big bucks for 7lb carbon seats.

I believe you can remove A/C for SP (can't quote a weight on that). I seem to think steering wheel replacement might be an option (worth a few pounds). Spare tire and tools obviously. And keep the level in the i/c spray tank low.

Coil-overs will shed some weight vs. the stock springs and shocks (I don't have reference, but I think it's in the range of 20+lbs for all 4 corners).

Hotchkis hollow swaybars are not heavier than stock (I didn't weigh mine), and Cobb claims theirs are lighter. Certainly either choice is lighter than other solid aftermarket swaybars of comparable stiffness.

I'll be interested to see what you come up with.

-Mike

Wheels, exhaust, seats, and AC will be the big 4. You can also find a lightweight battery. And since you have an '04 STi, lose whatever stereo and speakers you might have added.

You should be able to get seats that weigh less than 20 pounds each. Wheels should be 16 pounds or so (SSR Comps). Air conditioning system should be good for 30 or 40 pounds. With just those mods, if you can't shave 100 pounds, you just haven't tried hard enough.

I don't believe 2-piece rotors are legal if the stock units are one piece, but I'm certainly not a SP aficianado.

Andy H.

You can't change from one piece rotors to two in SP. Most of the weight reduction you will commonly see in SP comes from the same sources as ST (i.e. exhaust, battery, seats, AC removal, stereo removal, etc.). Wheels will be about a wash, as you go with lighter wheels and tires but they are much larger. You won't lose a ton of weight on coilovers. You can delete swaybars if you want to setup the car that way.

A "rules" prepared car will have some other things done that drop some weight. I'm talking about pretty hardcore stuff, like fuel cell, lightweight radiator, etc. The little things add up, but the majority of the weight savings will be in the ST legal stuff.

Joel

You can save 1 to 2 pounds per corner on wheels (SSR Competition 17x8.5's are 1 pounds less even though wider), but you will get a bunch from the tires -- SSR plus Hoosier = 35 pounds vs. BBS + RE070 = 42 lbs. That's 28 pounds total, though as you go wider it would be less. Can't go to two-piece brakes. Lightweight battery will drop 21 pounds. Drain windshield wiper fluid and most of the intercooler sprayer for maybe 10 pounds. Quarter tank of gas is worth 50 pounds off the ~3260 wet weight. 40 pounds from the spare / jack / mat. Lightweight pulley = 4 pounds. Hollow swaybars = 3-4 pounds. Alternate steering wheel without airbag would save some. Coilovers will typically weigh somewhat less -- I've heard as much as 9 pounds per corner but that depends on what you get of course. A little from the intake. A lightweight flywheel might drop 5 pounds. Removing A/C would save a bunch but with 100+ degree autocrosses here and driving the car 240 miles to events I'm leaving mine in (dying on the way to the event makes for lousy results).

I've heard from Rallitek that headers are worth about 20 pounds and the aftermarket non-Ti exhausts are basically a wash, with Ti being under 10 pounds difference. But that doesn't jive with numbers like grippgoat has. Technically for ESP you don't need a cat or muffler (assuming you pass any site sound limits and don't catch cones on fire as you pass them) which would drop some more for the hardcore guys.

I weighed my passenger seats without mounting rails at 42 pounds. Switching to dual 16 lb Sparco Evo's or similar seats should drop 50 pounds. Think about not using sliders to save a bit more. Really serious types will use a Kirkey torture bucket with no sliders for the passenger seat which would weigh under 10 pounds (so another 8 or so less than the Sparcos).

Don't neglect the driver -- if you're spending $40 per pound or more for lightening the car, that cupcake is awfully expensive :). Add back in things like strut tower braces, harness bar (~15 pounds for the Speedware / Sparco), harnesses, camera, fire extinguisher, dynamat, stereo, and loose stuff in the glove box / armrest. Like Autowrxer says, some people go to extreme lengths such as lightweight bolts (or just weighing lots of bolts and using the lightest), removing all underbody coating, smaller radiator, lightweight glass (probably not available for our car anyway).

From what I understand, a reasonably well prepped ESP STi should be approaching 3000 pounds in race trim. Some extra effort and/or money can get it under, though it probably gets really hard or creative as you get much under. 2900 might be possible but sounds awfully hardcore. I'd love to see what Tom Hoppe's monster comes in at when he's done.

You also don't mention what level of competition. Don't let this scare you away if you're just competing regionally -- the car does fine without all this work. Run a quarter tank, remove the spare + tools, and use decently light wheels for your race tires. The battery is a cheap option and takes weight off the front. Do the rest as you see fit.

Found my notebook where I wrote down how much stuff weighs:

Stock Header -- 20 lbs
Stock WRX Uppipe -- 7 lbs (from a wrx)
Stock STI Catback -- 31 lbs
Stock STI Downpipe -- 23.5 lbs

GP Moto Titanium Catback section -- 11 lbs
GP Moto Downpipe -- 14 lbs (has a resonator in it)
Borla Header -- 9.5 lbs
Perrin Uppipe -- 4 lbs
Perrin Downpipe -- 11 lbs (no resonator)
Rear Diff Protector + bolts -- 9.5 lbs

That comes out to 41 pounds for header + GP Moto Downpipe + GP Moto Ti Catback. However, I think we missed a pound or two of heat shields and bolts when we weighed the stock header.

And FYI, the GP Moto downpipe and catback use a different flange than factory, so you have to use them with one another.

And from the cheater department, you might be able to get away with JDM bumper beams. :devil:

-Mike

fwiw...my ESP STi weighed 3108 at nationals with 1/4 tank of gas. Stock seats, stock battery, radio, 4 speakers, small amp 15# enkeis with 275 hoosiers, solid cusco bars, Tein Flex coilovers, stone mountain headers, hks dp, tanabe exhaust.

Right at 3,000# is very much acheivable imo.

Chris H.

Is it legal to replace bolts with lighter ones? I guess that would only apply for bolts and other hardware that attach allowed modifications. There is probably more weight there than most would think but from cross country mountain biking those ti or al bolts add up in cost pretty fast. The problem is deciding which bolts need to be strong and how strong they need to be and its probably not worth it.

Nate

Thanks for all the awesome replies and information. I really appreciate it. Keep it coming. Excellent write ups.

I think that a lot of people are moving to ESP this year. In 2004 I bet a lot of people ran AS and this year they feel the itch to modify like I am. So ESP is the next class to have a lot of fun competing with mods.

Thanks again,

Justin (reading and absorbing ESP info like a sponge)

This is for regional use, although I think I want to try to hit up one national event.

Coilovers will typically weigh somewhat less -- I've heard as much as 9 pounds per corner but that depends on what you get of course.

unfortanelty I didn't put my JIC FLTa2 coilovers on a scale but they were significantly lighter than the stock setup. maybe 30lbs. maybe more(?). the box the JIC's came in was heavy, but I could lift it ok. after I removed the stock setup and crammed them in the empty JIC box I couldn't really lift the box anymore. http://forums.nasioc.com/ubb-files/smilies/eek.gif

I think we'll be able to get Miranda's car to 3000lbs. Anything much under that will be with AC removal and other "to the hilt" mods such as joel mentioned.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 each ;)

-Tom

I think we'll be able to get Miranda's car to 3000lbs. Anything much under that will be with AC removal and other "to the hilt" mods such as joel mentioned.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 each ;)

-Tom

Ding...WinnA

When i switched from stock to my Tein Flex, i saved 9.5 pounds per corner in the front., 10 pounds per corner in the rear.

And yes...my 15# Enkeis were way too narrow. :)

Chris H.

I think we'll be able to get Miranda's car to 3000lbs. Anything much under that will be with AC removal and other "to the hilt" mods such as joel mentioned.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 each ;)

-Tom
Ding...WinnA
Exactly! :)

Kirkey torture bucket :lol:

I think we'll be able to get Miranda's car to 3000lbs. Anything much under that will be with AC removal and other "to the hilt" mods such as joel mentioned.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 each ;)

-Tom

Or fragile. You know what they say: light, strong, cheap - pick any two! ;)

:lol:

All I know, is that just like last year, our passenger seat will be ductaped in ;)

-Tom

Fuel cell... only if you do the full Solo 1 cage, too. You can't have one without the other.

Andy H.

You can save 1 to 2 pounds per corner on wheels (SSR Competition 17x8.5's are 1 pounds less even though wider), but you will get a bunch from the tires -- SSR plus Hoosier = 35 pounds vs. BBS + RE070 = 42 lbs.

Mundi, I have read a lot of your posts and you always provide good help/info.

If I go with the SSR comps I have a few Q's

17 X 8.5" SSR comps from tire-rack, what is the offset? They don't ever list it on tire-rack

will I need spacers or longer lugs?

What options do I have to wrap these in. They would only be for Auto-X and I will have camber plates this season to squeeze something under the fenders. So my daily tires would be on normal camber settings. I'd like to get some 245's under there.

What can I do with or without rolling my fenders?

I'd appreciate any detail on what I can do with tires and rims as well for ESP. You guys are the experts and I appreciate your help.

Once again, thanks everyone!

Justin

Or fragile. You know what they say: light, strong, cheap - pick any two! ;)

LOL I use that all the time. That was originally coined by Keith Bontrager in one of the rants on his site before Trek bought them up and farmed out his name to components that were nothing special. I figure you are a mountain biker too from your username.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 eachI fall in the former category. I use the SSR Competition 17x8.5 wheels which weigh something less than 15.5 pounds. Since I was going for low-maintenance last year these were the biggest ones at reasonable prices ($370 each) that fit the stock '04 car. Now that I'm thinking about fender flaring and 275/40-17 V710s, it'd be ideal to have wider rims, but I have to cut costs somewhere. That's not to say that I'm not pining for a set of CCW or Fikse customs...

17 X 8.5" SSR comps from tire-rack, what is the offset?The 5x100 pattern for the 2004 are ET48. This is an OK fit for tires that will fit under the stock fenders. For larger it is too close to the struts.

will I need spacers or longer lugs?Depends on the tire and might be different if you go to coilovers. Probably not.

What options do I have to wrap these in. They would only be for Auto-X and I will have camber plates this season to squeeze something under the fenders. So my daily tires would be on normal camber settings. I'd like to get some 245's under there.

What can I do with or without rolling my fenders?I can say with surety that 245/40-17 Kumho Ecsta V700's fit with these wheels and no spacers on a 2004 STi with pink springs. Interestingly, 225/45-17 Hoosier A3S04's have a "rim guard" cantilever design that required a thin 1/8" spacer to stay away from the stock struts in the back -- thin enough to not need new studs. They'd also scrape the fender just a little, but not enough to need anything done other than removing the fender trim guard. I never had any issues with the fronts on either side (strut or fender) -- it was always the backs.

This is probably an issue for another thread like the Tire Recommendation one, as it involves a bunch of things like what tire you want (which involves grip / wear / price tradeoffs and opinions), how much fender work you want to do, what wheel, and what suspension. While I ran the above tires this last year with lots of success locally, there are probably plenty of people here horrified at the thought of either one (some people hate the Ecsta V700 compound, and the 225/45 Hoosiers are woefully small for national level competition).

I fall in the former category. I use the SSR Competition 17x8.5 wheels which weigh something less than 15.5 pounds. Since I was going for low-maintenance last year these were the biggest ones at reasonable prices ($370 each) that fit the stock '04 car. Now that I'm thinking about fender flaring and 275/40-17 V710s, it'd be ideal to have wider rims, but I have to cut costs somewhere. That's not to say that I'm not pining for a set of CCW or Fikse customs...

The 5x100 pattern for the 2004 are ET48. This is an OK fit for tires that will fit under the stock fenders. For larger it is too close to the struts.

Depends on the tire and might be different if you go to coilovers. Probably not.

I can say with surety that 245/40-17 Kumho Ecsta V700's fit with these wheels and no spacers on a 2004 STi with pink springs. Interestingly, 225/45-17 Hoosier A3S04's have a "rim guard" cantilever design that required a thin 1/8" spacer to stay away from the stock struts in the back -- thin enough to not need new studs. They'd also scrape the fender just a little, but not enough to need anything done other than removing the fender trim guard. I never had any issues with the fronts on either side (strut or fender) -- it was always the backs.

This is probably an issue for another thread like the Tire Recommendation one, as it involves a bunch of things like what tire you want (which involves grip / wear / price tradeoffs and opinions), how much fender work you want to do, what wheel, and what suspension. While I ran the above tires this last year with lots of success locally, there are probably plenty of people here horrified at the thought of either one (some people hate the Ecsta V700 compound, and the 225/45 Hoosiers are woefully small for national level competition).

Thanks for the info. I will check that other thread out. If I get myself more confused than I am I will just ask directly via PM if you don't mind. Otherwise I'll leave ya alone.

Just thought of another weight saving mod legal in ESP: lightweight starter and alternator. Getting pretty advanced there, but the cars will eventually develop that far...

unfortanelty I didn't put my JIC FLTa2 coilovers on a scale but they were significantly lighter than the stock setup. maybe 30lbs. maybe more(?). the box the JIC's came in was heavy, but I could lift it ok. after I removed the stock setup and crammed them in the empty JIC box I couldn't really lift the box anymore. http://forums.nasioc.com/ubb-files/smilies/eek.gif

I just picked up JIC coil-overs as well. I think they were 16.5lbs each? The stock struts with konis were 19 lbs each I think.

Does anyone have definative info on weight savings just by gettin coil-overs. I find it hard to believe a ~10lb loss over stock. Anyways, just looking for more info.

Justin

How much do 18x11 wheels weigh?

ESP isn't STU with R-Compounds despite what too many people seem to think.

Does anyone have definative info on weight savings just by gettin coil-overs. I find it hard to believe a ~10lb loss over stock. Anyways, just looking for more info.Here are the measurements I took on my shipping scale when I changed my 2004 STi from stock struts + "pink" springs to KW Suspension 2-way competition coilovers with 11kg main springs + tenders. This does not count top mounts / plates since those were identical.

Front stock: 17lb 0oz
Front KW: 10lb 2oz

Rear stock: 16lb 7oz
Rear KW: 11lb 14oz

That adds up to almost 14 pounds off the front and 9 off the rear, for a total of 22.9 pounds. I also got rid of more by running the stiff springs in back and no rear swaybar or mounts, which is at least another 8 (off the back though).

18x11 wheels would likely be 20-25 pounds. But we're putting the cart before the horse (which I believe you're trying to point out). Decide on your use (e.g. autocross). Determine your approximate budget and plan (Can you afford Hoosiers? Will you take a Sawz-all to your fenders?) Pick your tire compound and size. Then pick the wheel size to fit the tire and car. Then get a reasonably light wheel in that size.

Paraphrasing your comment, there are too many people trying to pick a light wheel then haphazardly picking a tire to fit it. I'm pretty sure a V710 on a 30 pound wheel will still beat up on a Federal on a 10 pound magnesium wheel.

That adds up to almost 14 pounds off the front and 9 off the rear, for a total of 22.9 pounds. I also got rid of more by running the stiff springs in back and no rear swaybar or mounts, which is at least another 8 (off the back though).
I seem to recall weighing full assemblies from tophat to housing. I have an 03 WRX suspension waiting to go on this winter. I will have to weigh it tonight. I had the koni/wrx suspension on my STi and I think it was ball park 19lbs. But I don't think I weighed front and rear. I wish I had. I think I will start weighing everything and start a page on my website with how much stuff weighs. I'll re-post tonight with the 03 suspension weight. I'd really like to get my car down to 3k because I myself am phat :lol: :rolleyes: .

I think we'll be able to get Miranda's car to 3000lbs. Anything much under that will be with AC removal and other "to the hilt" mods such as joel mentioned.

I dunno where you guys are getting your 16lbs wheels, but if they are 16lbs, they are either way too narrow or $1000 each ;)

-Tom

SSR Comps 17x8.5 +48mm offset 15.4 pounds, $409 each. (http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?target=wheelSearchCloseUp&wheelIndex=11&sizeIndex=0&showRear=no&setIndex=2&filterSize=&filterFinish=&filterSpecial=) That's as wide of a wheel as you can get away with without major fender mods right? I guess it depends on if the driver is good enough for national level competition or how tough the competition is in ESP in their regional events. How wide are the wheels people are running in national level compeition? Tire rack doesn't even list wheels wider than 8.5" for an STi at all.

-Noob

SSR Comps 17x8.5 +48mm offset 15.4 pounds, $409 each. (http://www.tirerack.com/servlet/CallJsp?target=wheelSearchCloseUp&wheelIndex=11&sizeIndex=0&showRear=no&setIndex=2&filterSize=&filterFinish=&filterSpecial=) That's as wide of a wheel as you can get away with without major fender mods right? I guess it depends on if the driver is good enough for national level competition or how tough the competition is in ESP in their regional events. How wide are the wheels people are running in national level compeition? Tire rack doesn't even list wheels wider than 8.5" for an STi at all.

-Noob

National level ESP STI = 285 tires + 10 inch wide wheels

National level ESP STI = 285 tires + 10 inch wide wheels

Drool...

So I guess you have to do some skillful modifying of the fenders. The rear fenders on Joel Fehrman's ESP 05 STi look good in that picture but he probably did have to cut them down a bit huh. Man those fat tires look good bursting out at the sides! :P

National level ESP STI = 285 tires + 10 inch wide wheels

At least 10's....maybe more...

Bill

Drool...

So I guess you have to do some skillful modifying of the fenders. The rear fenders on Joel Fehrman's ESP 05 STi look good in that picture but he probably did have to cut them down a bit huh. Man those fat tires look good bursting out at the sides! :P

I had to cut the rear fenders up about an inch. The front fenders are rolled up about an inch as well, and the bumper is proped out with a metal rod so that the wide tire can turn inside it.

I'm running 10.5" wheels, but 10" wheels would work just as well with the 285s. Some folks are trying 315s. It remains to be seen if that tire is faster than the 285.

Joel

It's not even full blown nationals, but at the Wendover Pro last year in ESP, the other 10 drivers in ESP had 275 or larger tires. The Camaros were running 315 and 335 V710's on very large wheels. I had 17x8.5 SSR Comps with 225/45-17 Hoosiers -- required a 3mm spacer for inside clearance and still rubbed the fender a bit on the outside. My car was seriously under-tired. Since JSorter in an STX car matched my STi time, it was probably under-driven as well... :mad: :D

Looks like I'm going to get creamed again this year. I've got the flares now, still with the 17x8.5 wheels, but I'll likely run the same size Hoosiers (they were on sale!). If the stars align and wheel studs/spacers come in on time and fitments work out, I might run some treated 275/40-17 Hoosier A3S03's which would be a step in the right direction. My budget just doesn't match the class (I'm still running the stock ECU, for example). Oh good, looks like Navid signed up for Wendover again -- it's fun to see his car.

For a 2004 STi with the 5x100 pattern you'll almost certainly have to go custom (e.g. CCW, Fikse) to get bigger than 17x8.5. For the 5x114 pattern the 2005's have I think there are a lot more choices in wide wheels. As others said, for national level think 10 inch or larger with fender work to match. For regional competition it all depends on your venues and competition. 17x7.5 Rota's running second-tier tires are enough to get the car in the top 10 PAX in most local events (asphalt helps). SSR's are a reasonable upgrade.

I seem to recall weighing full assemblies from tophat to housing. I have an 03 WRX suspension waiting to go on this winter. I will have to weigh it tonight. I had the koni/wrx suspension on my STi and I think it was ball park 19lbs. But I don't think I weighed front and rear. I wish I had. I think I will start weighing everything and start a page on my website with how much stuff weighs. I'll re-post tonight with the 03 suspension weight. I'd really like to get my car down to 3k because I myself am phat :lol: :rolleyes: .
I say cut the roof off

I had to cut the rear fenders up about an inch. The front fenders are rolled up about an inch as well, and the bumper is proped out with a metal rod so that the wide tire can turn inside it.

I'm running 10.5" wheels, but 10" wheels would work just as well with the 285s. Some folks are trying 315s. It remains to be seen if that tire is faster than the 285.

Joel
I would be interested to hear if the 300+ widths will be an advantage. See if they can build heat or not.

I would be interested to hear if the 300+ widths will be an advantage. See if they can build heat or not.
Trust me, building heat is NOT the issue. Moving the wheel outside enough to clear the chassis while having the wheel turned is. I think that the car will be *too* wide. But it would really take some real world 285/30/18 vs 315/35/17 testing *on course* to find out. Only testing I've personally done is test fitting with the car static. I think the 275/40/17 on a 10 or 11" wheel would also be a great choice. It will strech out well and also give good gearing. Might not need 3rd at ProSolos :)

-Tom

Yeah, heat won't be an issue with the new compounds. It's a matter of whether the loss in steering feel, increased ride height, and longer gearing will be offset by the wider contact patch and increased track (advantage in sweepers and disadvantage in offsets/slaloms).

With my 275/40-17 at Nationals...i was cooling them between runs, and i was only a single driver, and it wasn't paticularly hot.

FWIW

Chris H.

I say cut the roof off

You would. But that's only because you are a big tall ogre :D

Trust me, building heat is NOT the issue. Moving the wheel outside enough to clear the chassis while having the wheel turned is. I think that the car will be *too* wide. But it would really take some real world 285/30/18 vs 315/35/17 testing *on course* to find out. Only testing I've personally done is test fitting with the car static. I think the 275/40/17 on a 10 or 11" wheel would also be a great choice. It will strech out well and also give good gearing. Might not need 3rd at ProSolos :)

-Tom

You think there will be problems that a sawzall cant take car of?

You would. But that's only because you are a big tall ogre :D
jealous???? yeah, you are jealous

Stock STi shocks weigh around 80+ lbs. My Tein Flexes are easily half that weight if not more. That is a good chunk of weight lost.

A/C is always an option.

Wheels, but for price is a minimum, but for you a 17x8 or 8.5 would be nice for more surface, but then again bigger tire ='s more weight. Enkei RPF1s @ 17x8 weighs 15.5lbs.

Hope you already removed everything from your trunk that's some weight with the spare tire, jack etc.

our stock headers are heavy they are like 4-5 pieces. I took out a elbow section to tap for an EGT probe $ it felt like it weighed about 5lbs alone.

exhaust is heavy.

remove back seats, prob like a lb or 2.

light radiator stock one has to be heavy they usually are.

Oh and in my case lose about 50-60lbs...I'm big boned...ok I'm fat

I would need to loose weight too. I can't take out the back seat in ESP. Do the Enkei's fit the STi Brembos. If so what offset.

J

I would assume they have one that fits over the Brembo.

I think I might go to Toledo w/Randy P. from Steel Cities. I don't care how I do but everyone tells me its a real eye opener to go to a National event.

So.....the hunt for a rim begins ;)

It looks like Joel and "stompy" the STi will be there so I plan on definately talking to those STi people.

J

If you want Justin the next time you're at an event we are at you can test fit one of our 17x8 RPF-1s, we didn't even bring them to the Evo schools last week. I very much doubt that you'll have a problem with caliper clearance, the same wheels clear Jason's StopTechs and Hoppe's Wilwoods without a problem, but there is always a chance so it's nice to test fit before buying anything.

If you want Justin the next time you're at an event we are at you can test fit one of our 17x8 RPF-1s, we didn't even bring them to the Evo schools last week. I very much doubt that you'll have a problem with caliper clearance, the same wheels clear Jason's StopTechs and Hoppe's Wilwoods without a problem, but there is always a chance so it's nice to test fit before buying anything.

Cool Phil, it was great meeting you guys!! All the Suby people at the EVO school were cool.

I'd go for a test fit anytime. I think I need new rims before Toledo though so I don't know when we'd be able to meet up.

PS - where can I get the stud and hardened lug that you had. I'd like to buy a couple. Also I bought a harness from soloracer.com because of you, so thanks!!

J

Both the 45mm and 35mm offset Enkeis fit the 04 STi. I have 35mm, giving plenty of clearance on the rear struts with 275 tires. Obviously...wider wheels would be nice, but I had these already. No rubbing, and I'm even a touch lower than in these pics.

http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats1.JPG
http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats3.JPG
http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats5.JPG

Chris H.

Also I bought a harness from soloracer.com because of you, so thanks!!

J
could have given you one.

I picked up studs at the dealer and had a hardened nut to pull them in with laying around. If you bring one with you to Autozone or somewhere you should be able to match the stud with something in their box for cheaper than at a dealer.

I've heard but cannot verify that Nissan trucks use studs that are the same knurl and thread pitch but are grade 8 and 10-15mm longer than the studs on a Subaru, might be worth looking into as a moderately priced alternate stud set.

Justin, are you looking for longer studs? or just stronger?

I picked up studs at the dealer and had a hardened nut to pull them in with laying around. If you bring one with you to Autozone or somewhere you should be able to match the stud with something in their box for cheaper than at a dealer.

I've heard but cannot verify that Nissan trucks use studs that are the same knurl and thread pitch but are grade 8 and 10-15mm longer than the studs on a Subaru, might be worth looking into as a moderately priced alternate stud set.

I got studs at advance auto but they are black and look lower quality than OEM.

Dilligaf - Same studs as OEM or stronger. Also, which harness did you have? I wanted to go with Schroth as they are OEM options on BMWs and carry the FMS codes that make them street legal although I plan on using the Suby seatbelts for daily driving. Also philC gave such a good reccomendation on the website that I wanted to return the favor to him.

I am looking into the enkei's I want to see what prices are like.

not sure what they are. Maybe Sparco's, but I don't think they are. 5 points. The came out of one of the race cars, cause they expired. When you put belts in a car for AutoX, they don't expire.

Both the 45mm and 35mm offset Enkeis fit the 04 STi. I have 35mm, giving plenty of clearance on the rear struts with 275 tires. Obviously...wider wheels would be nice, but I had these already. No rubbing, and I'm even a touch lower than in these pics.

http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats1.JPG
http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats3.JPG
http://www.subrew.com/tmp/nats5.JPG

Chris H.

It looks like the +35's are hard for me to find. Car to send me to the right place? Also, today (-3 camber) while autocrossing I am chewing up the front fender liners with the stock BBS's. So....I am thinking the +35 will work real well. I have 255/40 victoracers on the way. Anyone forsee any problems?

I barely wore through a little hole in my fender liners, with about -3.5 degrees front camber and the wheel/tire package shown above. My ride height was a tad too high at nats, cause I only had one practice event on this setup before nats. And, I knew topeka is very bumpy. I never rubbed, and have since lowered the car back down about 3/4-inch, with zero rubbing on typical New England pavement events.

I got my 35mm offset Enkeis from Gruppe-S. Only available in silver btw, with the 35mm offset. I don't recall it being a big deal to locate them. Your victos will be narrower and shorter than my Hoosiers, so you shouldn't have any issues. I'll be fitting some 255/40-17 Pirelli Corsas on my 17x8 Torques this week. I'll probably need a thin spacer in the back, we'll see.

Good luck.

Chris H.

not sure, but you may need spacers.

not sure, but you may need spacers.

Not sure, maybe.




Thanks for the gruppe-s link. I forgot they sold rims as I have bought stuff from Max and gruppe-s before.

J

WorldOne has good deal on Enkei RPF1's:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=767636

17x8 15.5lbs = more meat too!!!!!

Matt

If I get SSR comps 17*8.5 from tirerack.com what do I need to do? I was afraid of the whole bankruptcy think but I read Tanabe picked them up.

I am running 255/40 Victoracers.
Spacers/Fender rolling?

Straight up I don't need instructions just a yep or nope!

Thanks,
Justin

won't know till you try?

won't know till you try?

you, just you, suck. ;)