I have WB02 on my car, I know there is
life limit on the sensor. Should I put back stock o2 after the car
been tuned?
Or better leave it in,cuz EM will use it as it's better monitoring device.
How do you know sensor goes bad?

You don't need to. The ECU will function fine without it. They only last so long. So if you want to preserve it's use, removing it and replacing it with the narrow band sensor would help. If you will not be "re-tuning" for awhile I'd take it out until you need it again. I have heard that the WB sensor are fragile so I'd treat it as gently as possible.

i love having my wb in 24/7. very easy to look down and check on the state of affairs. better than a fuel pressure gauge by far.

jm2c
ken

I'd leave it in for a bit after your first initial flurry of tuning that ends with you thinking it's all dialed in, then take it out after 2 weeks or something (for the reasons bboy stated).

If you're thinking of leaving the sensor mounted in the exhaust pipe and disconnecting it from its controller, don't.

If you're using a Bosch LSU4 sensor meant for a Volkswagen, then it's designed to last a long time can be replaced for only $38.29 plus shipping from 1stVWparts.com (https://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213799&partnumber1=021906262B&Makeid1=35&catalogid=0&searchType=Part%20Number%20Search%20Results&searchAll=1).

']If you're thinking of leaving the sensor mounted in the exhaust pipe and disconnecting it from its controller, don't.

If you're using a Bosch LSU4 sensor meant for a Volkswagen, then it's designed to last a long time can be replaced for only $38.29 plus shipping from 1stVWparts.com (https://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213799&partnumber1=021906262B&Makeid1=35&catalogid=0&searchType=Part%20Number%20Search%20Results&searchAll=1).

i second that, if it is not hooked up the heater will not be burning off the contaminates.

i have mine in all the time, the sensor is cheap to replace.

I wasn't thinking of unplug, but replacing it with stock 02 instead.
Since don't really need it after tuned.
I believe my sensor is NTK ones, I don't know if it'll take LSU4s.

Since don't really need it after tuned.
that's my point.. without a wideband reading all the time, how do you know you don't need it? ;)

afrs drift around more than you think: load sites change, charge mass changes, gas formulations change, filters get dirty, pumps get tired, injectors get clogged, intakes develop leaks, etc etc.

ken

Based on that comment, that mean I have to connect to my Laptop all the time, and constantly tuning it. :rolleyes:
well, I don't have a gauge I can read all the time. Only through my laptop.
I think the your point is valid, but overstated a little.

I think the your point is valid, but overstated a little.

jlee: which one of us has been driving around with an eye on the wideband for half a year? ;)

it's a shame you can't monitor wbo2 readings on the fly. can you get a nbo2 output from your wideband controller to interface with a generic o2 sensor afr meter? that way you could get some idea of what's up while in the cockpit.

fwiw, i have a tuner pro mounted in the oem gauge pack location.

ken

if yer willing to spend the dough i saw AEM had a wideband in the size of a 2 1/16" gauge... kinda pricey...450

I have a hydra because I'm a control freak. I want to control every aspect of the way my car works, and I like to tinker with it. I would imagine a lot of standalone owners are that way... hence, why would you ever remove one of your sensors? In my mind, I don't unplug my oil pressure gauge, why would I unplug my A/F gauge?

I've had my Hyrda wideband in since Aug. I've only removed it to calibrate it, and I do that about once a month to make sure its accurate. Between those free air calibration times, I will typically run my car up to 5000rpm on a dowhill, and decel. I've got the fuel shutoff on decel, so I have pure air pumping through the engine at that point. That also lets me see if its calibration is starting to drift a bit.

I HAVE had to recalibrate it a couple of times, the numbers have changed slightly over time. I would imagine that I will probably have to get a new sensor once a year or so - only because I don't think the hydra heats the sensor as much as it should to keep it cleaned off.

Control freaks are excepted (and accepted).

I did think of another reason for maintainance insertion of the WB. The engine wears and VE changes. Touching up the tune is not a bad idea, maybe once every 10K miles.

If you want to run with the WB all the time then do it. I think they last around 1000 hours, so at 60 mph that's 60,000 miles, about the same length as a narrow band (but about 10X the price). Your mileage may vary.

I hope one day Hydra will have the ability to use Bosch wide band sensor 'cause they are so much cheaper. Then I would run one all the time.

I was thinking along the line that if I don't mod the engine it won't very too much, so I could save the sensor. NTK ones are not $35. around $125 I believe.

on for my plx wideband the bosch are 59.95+ 5 s&H and the NTK are 195.95+5 S&H

mine uses the bosch sensor and is on all the time.

your bosch sensor, that the one from summitracing? cuz thats the price I saw there and the same one you can get from volkswagen dealer for ~20 dollawrs less

the price i quoted above was direct from plx devices website.

Anyone know where to get cheap NTK ones?
Will Hydra take NTK L2H2 sensor?

'It's a shame you can't monitor wbo2 readings on the fly'. Hey ride5000....check out this link http://www.mdac.com.au/products.htm

Woa! Thats cool, especially for the price! Gotta get me one of those! :)

The GP-meter (general purpose duty cycle-digit meter) is connected to any negative switching PWM output. Requires a single 2D PWM map to be dedicated to the GP-meter. Can be software configured to show alcohol, petroleum, LPG or diesel AFR.

Easy three wire connection; just wire to ECU ground, ECU power and a PWM channel.


What do they mean by PWM?

Can it hook up to different wb02 sensors? like the cheaper ones that were talked about earlier in this thread (Bosch) from here:


If you're using a Bosch LSU4 sensor meant for a Volkswagen, then it's designed to last a long time can be replaced for only $38.29 plus shipping from 1stVWparts.com.

No this isn't a UEGO controller (what you need to interface with a UEGO such as L1H1 or LSU) just a duty cycle to digit converter. Can be programmed to show AFR based on a duty cycle outputted by the Nemesis, which has it's own internal UEGO controller.