Mods:
Td05-20g
PE800cc injec.
Injen FMIC
Perrin Shortram
Utec
Walbropump
Turboback exhaust+uppipe
worx bov.



310whp and 295tq

Ill try to get the chart up, but my scanner isn't working

We had it up to 322whp, but i was gettin alot of ping. Looks like i may have to go water injection to get some better numbers...

im assuming this is on pump gas.. how much boost?

93octane- 21psi..

looks pretty good. little more than a vf34 or vf39.

when did you hit full boost

What kind of dyo was this on?

dyno at turbotrix.. not sure what they use.. i hit full boost when driving around 3500rpm

great numbers, i'm sure 310whp is a buttload of fun

those numbers seem kind of low for a 20G and all of those mods. 20G should be around 350. My 18G hits 320 on a dynojet.. odd.

-alan

That is a little low for the TTR dyno. It's a dynojet. I put down 310whp on the same dyno with an 1820 which is smaller than the 20g.

yep it is low, just what i thought.... i donno what the deal is with my car.. but he said it was gettin alot of ping and that my IC pipes were gettin really hot.. Donno what the deal is. Said i should get water injection, but at this point, all the money i spent, im just fed up. And puttin a stop to my modding.. cause its useless.

You using the ABC for boost control?

yep it is low, just what i thought.... i donno what the deal is with my car.. but he said it was gettin alot of ping and that my IC pipes were gettin really hot.. Donno what the deal is. Said i should get water injection, but at this point, all the money i spent, im just fed up. And puttin a stop to my modding.. cause its useless.
Have you stopped to think that maybe the person who tuned your car just did a bad job? It's not unheard of. And since Junior used to do all the wrx tuning at TTR, it may just be that whoever did it might not quite have it down.

If your IC pipes were getting hot, get some heat wrap and wrap those puppies up! Or even better get them jethot coated or something similar. You've put too much time and money in that car to just say "F**k it!"

310whp and 295tq

Ill try to get the chart up, but my scanner isn't working


take a digital pic, post it...is this a deadbolt 20G?

I'm betting you its the intercooler. Lots better FMICs that are more efficient and you will net more HP out of your setup.

I'm betting you its the intercooler. Lots better FMICs that are more efficient and you will net more HP out of your setup.

i bet you are correct...that a tiny fmic...I would be surprised if a large tmic would out perform the injen fmic...

Mods:
Td05-20g
PE800cc injec.
Injen FMIC
Perrin Shortram
Utec
Walbropump
Turboback exhaust+uppipe
worx bov.



310whp and 295tq

Ill try to get the chart up, but my scanner isn't working


We had it up to 322whp, but i was gettin alot of ping. Looks like i may have to go water injection to get some better numbers...
Could you fax or email the plot to me? I'm going with this turbo but using an external wg setup.
Thanks

the turbo is a deadbolt td05-20g.. with a monster port and polish.. Also, i am using a MBC to get my boost because i tried using factory boost control and it only got me 5psi. Someone said that the stock seloniod can't work with this turbo..?? Anyhow, i was thinkin about heatwraping the IC pipes, would that help.. Also im gonna buy thermotech wrap for my exhaust side of the Turbo, cause right now i dont have any heatshields on.

TD05? Should have gone TD06 20G. Better suited for your setup.

If the IC pipes are getting hot maybe the IC setup is out of its efficiency range? I don't have any heatshields on my turbo anymore and the pipes on the dr725 never get hot... 22 psi too.

when does your full boost spool up?

That is a weird turbo choice for a WRX

^^ He already said 3500 man.. but he didnt' mention in what gear. And it's not that bad of a choice for a WRX. My friend had a green that made 405 stock block on c16 and it trapped 115.

That is a weird turbo choice for a WRX

explain?

in 3rd gear guys..

i bet you are correct...that a tiny fmic...I would be surprised if a large tmic would out perform the injen fmic...

nothings wrong with the injen fmic, its small but it works. the evo's stock fmic is about the same size and people run 500+ hp.

ah well , if i decide to go with water injection ill let you guys know of the turn out. As of now.. im gonna take a break.

nothings wrong with the injen fmic, its small but it works. the evo's stock fmic is about the same size and people run 500+ hp.
"about hte same size" That"s pretty much useless hearsay. And it's not just dimensions sometimes... IC pipe size (i.e. Greddy's small pipes) and other things matter.

i beleive the piping is 2.5 and 2.75

is the tdo5 20g a direct bolt on for the wrx, i thought this turbo came off a eclipse gsx and had a different bolt pattern, im looking into upgrading the stocker so im exploring my options....ive been looking into the vf-22 and maybe just the sti vf-39 but any other options im glad to consider....

is the tdo5 20g a direct bolt on for the wrx, i thought this turbo came off a eclipse gsx and had a different bolt pattern, im looking into upgrading the stocker so im exploring my options....ive been looking into the vf-22 and maybe just the sti vf-39 but any other options im glad to consider....

this is a direct bolt-on...custom built for the wrx..

explain?

Because he said so silly :p

is the tdo5 20g a direct bolt on for the wrx, i thought this turbo came off a eclipse gsx and had a different bolt pattern, im looking into upgrading the stocker so im exploring my options....ive been looking into the vf-22 and maybe just the sti vf-39 but any other options im glad to consider....

There is no way a 20G came stock on a GSX. That is a huge turbo for a stock car. Maybe a TD05 hotside w/ a smaller compressor wheel. I could be talking out of my a$$ here though :D

There is no way a 20G came stock on a GSX. That is a huge turbo for a stock car. Maybe a TD05 hotside w/ a smaller compressor wheel. I could be talking out of my a$$ here though :D

you correct 16G....on the mitsu

you correct 16G....on the mitsu


when did a 16G ever come stock on a GSX? Althouh that would have been quite awesome and I should pick one of those cars up right now then. I'm almost positive 1st gen was a td05-14b and 2nd gen a t-25...

when did a 16G ever come stock on a GSX? Althouh that would have been quite awesome and I should pick one of those cars up right now then. I'm almost positive 1st gen was a td05-14b and 2nd gen a t-25...

Correct. 16G on the Evo.

Frank

i have really got to get more familiar with these turbos, im used to plain out garret t3/t4 or t4's terminology, thats the world that i am used to with hondas, need to start researching the smaller turbos with all the crazy numbers and variations,tdo4/tdo5 16/20g,BIG 16G,vf22/vf39/vf37/vf34, theres so damn many variations on stock cars, getting overwhelmed here, haha....dont even want to here about those green and pink turbo codes, then ill be lost for sure.....

Interesting probs, I would say heat wrap for starters and then maybe water injection or mist ur intercooler, that should help, I use NXpress Intercooler spray to chill the charge temps, seems to work

dont even want to here about those green and pink turbo codes, then ill be lost for sure.....

FP Green & FP Red, 'Pinks' are STi injectors...haha

FP Green & FP Red, 'Pinks' are STi injectors...haha


yea i was looking at some pink injectors on ebay to upgrade to along with the turbo since my utec is on the way i might as well complete the package.......

i was thinkin today.. My worx bov, spring setting is on the 2nd softest. Could it be possible that it is leaking, causing the turbo to work hard to achieve boost levels, creating the huge amount of heat?

did you not read the paperwork that come with the turbo...?.

it says:
do not use the factory boost control solenoid to control boost

you need something like the GMC Syclone boost soleniod or Perrin EBCS or a full EBC....

huh? Im not using factory boost control.

Mods:
Td05-20g
PE800cc injec.
Injen FMIC
Perrin Shortram
Utec
Walbropump
Turboback exhaust+uppipe
worx bov.

i going off of what you have listed.... no where on there does it say you an aftermarket solenoid....

what are you running?

mbc as of now.

i was thinkin today.. My worx bov, spring setting is on the 2nd softest. Could it be possible that it is leaking, causing the turbo to work hard to achieve boost levels, creating the huge amount of heat?
That's what I was thinking. It sounds like the turbo is overspinning and is getting out of the efficiency range, thus causing hot charge and chocking the exhaust flow...Both will cause knock and limit power.

Alex...
Alex Performance

did you not read the paperwork that come with the turbo...?.

it says:


you need something like the GMC Syclone boost soleniod or Perrin EBCS or a full EBC....

Hmmm, Jorge told me an after-market BCS is not needed if there is an adjustable wastegate actuator on the turbo, which I believe our turbo has.

Super, it is not adjustable....mine arrived Tues from Deadbolt.... :banana:

compared to the Stocker...arm is not adjustable...see

http://www.wrxfanatics.com/uploads/post-36-1113959306.jpg

Super, do you need the info for the GM Syclone BCS?

well poo, that turbos been sitting in my closet for the last 9 months and the last time I looked at it I thought it had an adjustable arm :confused: . I'll have to check again when I get home. I prolly go with the perrin unit if its not too back ordered. Where can I get the GM unit? I take it that the GM BCS requires wire spliceng like the perrin unit?

What I want to know, is WHY do you need a different boost control solenoid?

The non adjustability of the arm is one thing (why Jerry doesn't put one on is beyond me), but does it spike, fall short, over shoot?

Has to be a reason.

I'm yet to see/tune/drive a car with a turbo that was not mapable with the FBCS. My own GT30R was the closest, and it just took some restrictor work and arm tightening.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

My own GT30R was the closest, and it just took some restrictor work and arm tightening.

off-topic....but what do you do in the case of boost overshooting (spiking) at initial onset, dipping down low again, and then settling out (creeping up slightly). Could not tune the spike out. Using fbcs + restrictor from auto-zone....

I have an adjustable wastegate arm on the turbo :)

off-topic....but what do you do in the case of boost overshooting (spiking) at initial onset, dipping down low again, and then settling out (creeping up slightly). Could not tune the spike out. Using fbcs + restrictor from auto-zone....

I have an adjustable wastegate arm on the turbo :)

boring the restrictor to 7/32" gave me the stability I needed, then just increased the FBCS' range by arm preload.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

So your saying I won't need an after market BCS either way :confused: I just want to make the power and the tuning process is as smooth as possible when you tune me the 28th :)


What I want to know, is WHY do you need a different boost control solenoid?

The non adjustability of the arm is one thing (why Jerry doesn't put one on is beyond me), but does it spike, fall short, over shoot?

Has to be a reason.

I'm yet to see/tune/drive a car with a turbo that was not mapable with the FBCS. My own GT30R was the closest, and it just took some restrictor work and arm tightening.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

i only got 5psi when i used the factory boost control..

i only got 5psi when i used the factory boost control..

Was that with the factory restrictor in place?

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

cobb restrictor.

cobb restrictor.

Not being familiar with that restrictor, what is it's size comparison vs. the factory one? If it's larger, then yes... you'll boost less, but if you're only hitting 5 PSI, then that implies that your spring pressure is 5PSI, cause there's no reason you'd hit less then spring pressure unless you have some major issues with either the gate blowing open, or some massive leak.

So, my question stands... SOMETHING invokes a necessity for a different BCS. I sitll want to know what.

Up to this point I've been very impressed with what the 20g's can do, but this alone is a reason I'd avoid them then. Especially if I'm told to do something 'because'.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

the wastegate on Deadbolt 20G is 11lbs...

coz DR725 RULAZ

so what do you guys think.. My worx bov, when i was tuned, was on the 2nd softest spring setting. Do you think i was leaking boost which is the reason why the charged air was so hot, and i only made 310hp? Maybe a re-tune, and adjust the spring setting to a harder one.. there are 5diff settings.

its very possible....

Just kinda sucks that you need to retune becuase of that though, but that is what it seems like...

yeah, i put the spring on the next setting over, from what i got it tuned with it, and the car ran like total ****.. like idle and stuff.. WOT felt a little better.. but just didn't seem right.

make sure you are INCREASING the spring tension on the bov.

bad idle means leaky bov. leaky bov means insufficient spring tension.

What kind of tranny are you running?

everyone's complaining about the numbers, but 300+whp on a usdm 2.0 is pretty respectable, I think. I've been to many dyno sessions where 2.0's never break 300hp on pump gas...

somewhat off topic.....but I have a worx bov, and after installing a new front mount, lowest spring setting is way too loose...and second lowest (where you are running) gave me compressor surge. Did you by chance get a different spring from Worx tuning? Ive emailed and called them with no response, not too impressed with their customer service.

nice numbers :)

Mods:
Td05-20g
PE800cc injec.
Injen FMIC
Perrin Shortram
Utec
Walbropump
Turboback exhaust+uppipe
worx bov.

310whp and 295tq @ 21 psi


I wouldn't get too worked up over not hitting "better" numbers.
Those are great #s for a stock block at 21 psi, especially if your AFRs and EGTs are nice and safe. If your curves are smooth and your hitting your peaks early (3.5-4K RPMs for torque and 5-5.5K for HP) without a lot of gap between the two, that car will be huge fun to drive. Those numbers are good for a mid 12 110mph pass in the 1/4 any day of the week. That puts you in the top 1% of street cars.

Sure I've seen some 18Gs and PE1820s hit those numbers, granted they were at higher boost levels (22-24lbs) and running damn lean.

Also to get significantly bigger #s you may have to trade-up to the TD06 exhaust housing the TD05 hot-side is probably going to hold you back.

I don't know about going to a TD06, TD06-20G seems a bit big for a 2.0L engine