Just a quick question, is it worth it to start with stage1 or should i just go right to stage 2?? thanks
-ryan

Depends on your $. If you have the $ go for stage 2.

This is what i would do.

1. Uppipe(gut stock or new)
2. Wait, and see how the car feels.
3. Turbo back
4. Wait, and see how the car feels.
5. EM, Cobb stage2 or maybe you will want a different route but you would not have spend 500 on the Accessport if you changed your mind.

This is coming form a person who has a stage 2 and never did stage 1. I am also very happy with my stage 2 and will be going with a stage 2.5 or 3 if it ever comes out or maybe a Street Tuner after the bugs get worked out. Just so you know, sometimes i wish i had a Utec because the possibilities would be endless(vf22,18g,etc), but i'm no tuner. my2cents

Just a quick question, is it worth it to start with stage1 or should i just go right to stage 2?? thanks
-ryan

cost wise, it wont make a difference. The way I understand it, you can get the accessport first, run the stage 1 map and once you get your turboback installed, simply switch the mapping to the stage 2 map (which is pre-loaded onto the unit) so in terms of $$, it's the same.
Something to consider though is installing things piece by piece (ex. turbo back/ecu/up pipe/hoses/etc.) and then "wait and see how car feels" as mentioned above. Sure you can just throw everything in at once and boast about how much faster/better your car feels but if you do things piece by piece, you can learn to appreciate their functions and the benefits of each modification.

After reading this you're either thinking:
1) ya that makes sense- or
2) what the hell is wrong with this guy..
just depends on what YOU want to do ;)

You need no mods at all for the Stage 1 map.
You need a down-pipe that's catless or that has a high-flow cat for Stage 2.

1. up-pipe
2. down-pipe
3. axle-back
4. AccessPort Stage 2

2, 3 & 4 should be done at the same time IMO.

UltimateLurker, did you do it that way? i am asking because, i already have the axle-back installed, and this weekend will be installing the up-pipe, down-pipe, and ap. I will be installing the up and down-pipes then driving home, or to another destination before installing the ap, only to see the true gains of the up and down-pipe..

oh and I also own an 05 crystal gray WRX....good taste

Assuming you've made up your mind and you're going with an AccessPort, it doesn't make a difference in cost as amarpauld mentioned. You either use stage 1 for a while if that's all you can afford or you immediately go to 2 if you can pick up an adequate DP as well.

I personally ran a Cobb stg1 map for while. I then added an UP/DP and began running a stg2 map. It's all up to you...

UltimateLurker, did you do it that way? i am asking because, i already have the axle-back installed, and this weekend will be installing the up-pipe, down-pipe, and ap. I will be installing the up and down-pipes then driving home, or to another destination before installing the ap, only to see the true gains of the up and down-pipe..

oh and I also own an 05 crystal gray WRX....good taste

I haven't done anything yet, I'm collecting at this point :). From what I've read, the Scooby can have some bad reactions to doing exhaust mods without EM, save for 1 at a time (excluding the DP), so you doing an AB won't hurt a thing, I just wouldn't do a catless UP and catless DP without EM. Keep in mind tho', some people have done it with success, but better safe than sorry I always say.

Yea, i am sure it couldnt be to safe, but the trip from installing the catless up and down-pipes might be 20 miles. then the AP will be installed. I cant wait, cobb says with the stg 2 map for 93 octane, (the one i will be using) like 285awhp....i am uhh excited to say the least

...like 285awhp...

285 crank, not at the wheels. :)

if $$$ was tight,
stg 1 AP
gut u/p
mtr/tranny mts
tbe exhaust/ stg 2

you will be a happy, happy camper

:D

so 285 to the crank, how much would that be to the wheel? like 240?

so 285 to the crank, how much would that be to the wheel? like 240?

Cobb has a graph on their site... I think they got somewhere around 225 on their Mustang AWD dyno (up from ~170 stock).

There are quite a few threads around with Cobb stg2 dyno results.

Yeah, it's +54 HP and +49 Torque (at the ground), which is all that really matters anyway. Subaru left a lot of HP/TQ on the table with the WRX.

so basically does the AP just pick up the HP/TQ that subaru left on the table for us, or is it actually getting deep in what the motor/turbo should be doing?

anytime you increase hp/tq, you are going to decrease longevity/reliability. supposedly the magic # for the wrx 280hp, over that longevity takes a nosedive into the world of EJ257 and V7/8 swaps. i forget if that wheel or crank hp,,,

so basically does the AP just pick up the HP/TQ that subaru left on the table for us, or is it actually getting deep in what the motor/turbo should be doing?

In a perfect world, the motor would run without restriction, and without emissions control. If you look closely, that's all Cobb is doing, removing the restrictions and the emissions constraints. You're not taxing the motor with Cobb Stage 2, maybe the transmission, drivetrain, tires, brakes, etc, but hey, that's the cost of increased performance. The more power you have, the less you have to "beat" on your vehicle, and the Cobb Stage 2 is plenty powerful enough to allow you to drive the vehicle in a smooth way and still blow most vehicles off the road. CS2 is capable of 12.9.

nice, so UltimateLurker when are you doing this to your 05? like i said this weekend is time for me!! i cant wait.