Well my goal is 180+ WHP and 14.0 or so in the 1/4, please tell me if you think this is possible. I am willing to use 93+ gas if need be. I started out with a completely stock phase one Acadia Green 4EAT 2.5 RS. I would like to take it to the dyno, but there isn't one close, and it cost to much. I have a 5MT tranny, and all other parts needed for a trans swap. The new trans has 22k on it. I will be installing a lightened flywheel when I install the tranny. The trans already had an exedy clutch when I pulled it, so I'll be using that.

Here is what I want to do other than mentioned above:
Lightened Pully Set, but not underdriven
Injen CAI for 98 RS
Phase 2 SOHC block to up CR
TWE Stage 1 DOHC cams or Cobb "spicy" cams
TWE or Cobb Headers w/o cats and cat-back exhaust


What else do I need to do to meet my goal? What EM do you guys recommend. I really want to up my redline to at least 7k, but thus far don't know if that will me very cost effective.

More fuel.
Walboro fuel pimp. SR20DET injectors.

Then I will need some after market form of EM or an SAFC. If I do the injectors I should go with a different fuel delivery system also right? The RS fuel rails can leave a cylinder or two on the lean side I hear. I know right now my car is running SUPER rich because the plugs were full of carbon.

You can do the fuel rail mod(plenty of threads on this subject) and you might want to consider running something like an emanage. I'm not sure how many people have run 98's with an emanage, so do a search on that(mostly heard about 99-01's).

I have seen the fuel rail mod, so I know about that.

Keep your injectors, use an SAFC to dial in the fuel, which will be plenty useful for what you have listed. I'm still working on a cheap way to up the revlimit, but may resort to the Unichip. Which will replace the SAFC anyway. With what you have listed, you should be deep into the 14's depending on your elevation. PM MattMonson about his similar buildup.

This is a pretty good setup, as I'm running the same thing without the cams.

Jay Storm

Jay, I've been talking with Matt in his Dyno thread. What power/1/4 are you laying down? Could you please list your mods if you have a dyno, or link me to them. Thanks.

I saw your posts in the other thread after I replied here....sorry about that!
No dynotime yet......but its coming soon. Buildup consists of simple low cost parts.
PhaseII bottom end
shaved, P&P'd DOHC heads
thin .027" Cometic gaskets
stock 98RS cams pushing USDM STi valvesprings/retainers
portmatched EJ20G manifold(blocked off EGR)
1.8TB
1.8ECU
SAFC slightly enriched
parrallel fueled w/1.8 injectors running 38psi @ idle.
MRT header w/halfcat and 2.25 straightpipe exhaust.
Fidanza flywheel, JCS pulley (remember them?)

The motor is needing some valve clearance work still. Finding shims is a pain, and tearing it down to measure is something that I've been putting off. They're a bit tight from the valvejob so my idle sucks. Other than that, it seems to pull comparable to our 98RS DSP car that is definately making good power. The revlimit of my ECU comes quick in all gears.....17" wheels make me whiz by traffic before I realize just how quick I'm moving......

Jay Storm

You have the Fidanaza 9.5lb flywheel? Do you have any trouble with it? Any cels? That is what I wanted to get, but I was worried it might be too light. Please tell me how you like it, and dislike it. Any problems with 1/4 mile launches or loosing inertia going up-hill?

We have had no CELs due to the flywheel. We used to get CELs when we took the cats off, but once we learned to set the AFC correctly, we can run trouble free, cat free......
You have the Fidanaza 9.5lb flywheel? Do you have any trouble with it? Any cels? That is what I wanted to get, but I was worried it might be too light. Please tell me how you like it, and dislike it. Any problems with 1/4 mile launches or loosing inertia going up-hill?
The flywheel is awesome. With the DSP car I cut 1.8sec 60ft times on 225-50-15 tires and 2.0sec on 245-45-16s. Cold hoosiers light up for a moment but our new Kumhos just grip even when cold. Shifting is easier when heel-toe downshifting and upshifting just seems to hit right in the sweetspot quicker. Spend an afternoon to relearn the personality of the flywheel (instead of jumping online and whining about stalling and CELs like many others have) and you'll be very happy with the Fidanza. The only downside to it is when I try to creep through paddock..... I have to either pump&slip the clutch or ride the brake slightly or it'll lobe over on the cams and start bucking. In my swapped L, the bad idle is made worse by the valve clearances, hi-compression and low idle speed of the 1.8ECU. I do have misfire CELs on the L....but it's primarily from the valves and poor idle. When it's cold, my idle stays around 900-1100rpm, then drops to 750 when it warms up, but it doesn't like it there and starts to roam from 600-800 like it's got giant cams....but it's the valves.


Jay Storm

Great, well I'll be going with that then. Do you think that your 60 times would be better if you had more initial intertia due to a heavier flywheel?

Great, well I'll be going with that then. Do you think that your 60 times would be better if you had more initial intertia due to a heavier flywheel?On the DSP car, we don't make enough power to get too much further below 1.8sec. Mind you...there's plenty of inertia at my launch points..... :devil: I've cut my quickest short times with the Fidanza in place....with the stock flywheel, I never got below 1.95sec. but honestly never really went for all out numbers either. I was only practicing for ProSolo, so the alignment was not at all set for dragstrip performance.....


Jay Storm