Tonight I am going to install my 3 lightened pulley's on my 4EAT 98 RS. I found this thread which tells me how to get the crank pulley off. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112887&highlight=pulley+4eat

I have a few questions remaining. I need a definitive way to get the power steering, and the alternator pully off. I also would like to know what are the torque specs for all three? I am hearing 90-100 fo the crank, but someone also said 130. What about the other two?

Some tips on crank pulley install:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=710537

Didn't bother with power steering pulley or alternator pulley myself. Sorry.

big braker bar + crack the starter

least i did that for the crank on my old auto, but the other pullies i didnt mess with them i figured they werent worth it

i just did a lightened crank pully, nothing else and it made ahuge difference. i would also recomend NOT using an underdrive kit

Well I installed the Power Steering and the Crank Pulley. I see no way of doing the alternator pulley with out damageing the stock and aftermarket pulleys. To do the PS pully you wedge a wrech or screw-driver between the hole in the pully and the underside of the PS pump. It will keep the pully from turning so you can take it off. Be careful doing that I broke a hole in my timing belt cover, and slightly marred my aftermarket ps pulley when I torqued it down. To remove the crank pulley, I just held the breaker bar very tightley in my hands, disconnected all of the spark plug wires, and then cranked the car once. From the top of the car it will try to turn the breaker bar right towards the battery. It almost pulled my arm out of socket, but it worked. I am starting to think that this was a completely worthless mod on a 4EAT DOHC RS. I have seen no gains anywhere. The car doesn't accel quicker, it doesn't rev quicker, it doesn't pull harder. I have the N1 Lightweight pulley set. The crank pulley was one of the easier installs I've done, so I don't know why people make such a big deal of this install. Once you take the bolt out you just take a pry bar and wiggle it off. I am disapointed, but at least I got a good deal on them. I torqued the crank pulley to 100 ft lbs, and that was all I go without it slipping out of the sears belt wrench (like what some people use for the oil filters). The PS Pump was a different story. I couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I tighened it to ~100 ft pds, or something around there. In doing this I used the wrench the same way I took it off to keep it from turning on me. This marred the softer material on the pully, and broke a small tip of a finger size whole in the timing belt cover. No biggy. In case you were wondering if the other pulley's would come off by cranking the engine with the breaker bar on them the answer is NO. I'll be doing a 5MT swap soon, so I plan to see better gains from these mods.

Well I installed the Power Steering and the Crank Pulley. I see no way of doing the alternator pulley with out damageing the stock and aftermarket pulleys. To do the PS pully you wedge a wrech or screw-driver between the hole in the pully and the underside of the PS pump. It will keep the pully from turning so you can take it off. Be careful doing that I broke a hole in my timing belt cover, and slightly marred my aftermarket ps pulley when I torqued it down. To remove the crank pulley, I just held the breaker bar very tightley in my hands, disconnected all of the spark plug wires, and then cranked the car once. From the top of the car it will try to turn the breaker bar right towards the battery. It almost pulled my arm out of socket, but it worked. I am starting to think that this was a completely worthless mod on a 4EAT DOHC RS. I have seen no gains anywhere. The car doesn't accel quicker, it doesn't rev quicker, it doesn't pull harder. I have the N1 Lightweight pulley set. The crank pulley was one of the easier installs I've done, so I don't know why people make such a big deal of this install. Once you take the bolt out you just take a pry bar and wiggle it off. I am disapointed, but at least I got a good deal on them. I torqued the crank pulley to 100 ft lbs, and that was all I go without it slipping out of the sears belt wrench (like what some people use for the oil filters). The PS Pump was a different story. I couldn't fit the torque wrench in there so I tighened it to ~100 ft pds, or something around there. In doing this I used the wrench the same way I took it off to keep it from turning on me. This marred the softer material on the pully, and broke a small tip of a finger size whole in the timing belt cover. No biggy. In case you were wondering if the other pulley's would come off by cranking the engine with the breaker bar on them the answer is NO. I'll be doing a 5MT swap soon, so I plan to see better gains from these mods.

Worthless mod? :/

I would say that the pulleys were worthless on my car. It may help on a 5MT car, but on an auto I noticed nothing. I'll never know what the difference is when I put my 5MT tranny in unless I put the stock pully back on which I doubt I'll do. I'm going with a 9 lb flywheel, so we'll see I may have to replace it.

Rotating mass is rotating mass, whether it's on a 5MT or a 4EAT. I've installed lighweight crank pulleys on both 5MT and 4EAT cars and didn't feel a noticeable difference on either. It's not a worthless mod, but you get what you pay for. Don't expect a lightened pulley that costs $100 to make a night and day difference. It never hurts to shed a little weight though, even if you don't feel it.

Well if a pulley weighs 1.1 lbs and is a $100 and another weights 1.1 and is $200 that doesn't make it any better. Like I said I noticed no difference what so ever. The car actually seemed like it may have taken longer to rev. After I drove the car around for 30 min or so trying to feel a difference I went back and installed my Injen CAI. That made a huge difference, and only cost $50 more than the pulleys.

Rotating mass is rotating mass, whether it's on a 5MT or a 4EAT. I've installed lighweight crank pulleys on both 5MT and 4EAT cars and didn't feel a noticeable difference on either. It's not a worthless mod, but you get what you pay for. Don't expect a lightened pulley that costs $100 to make a night and day difference. It never hurts to shed a little weight though, even if you don't feel it.
Agreed.

When installed my ProECM set, I noticed a difference with my 4EAT, as did by buddy who installed the same brand on his 5MT. It wasn't a night/day difference, but we both noticed that the car pulled in and through the powerband quicker. Again, not lightening fast or anything, but there was a difference.

With the transmission in N, I noticed a big difference in how quickly the engine climbed through the revs. As well, rev matching became easier to do and quicker.

Eh, maybe I just pay too much attention to what I'm doing when I'm behind the wheel that I'm overly sensitive to changes in things. I'd like to think that is why my car is still running strong with >104K on the ticker.

AJ

Well if a pulley weighs 1.1 lbs and is a $100 and another weights 1.1 and is $200 that doesn't make it any better. Like I said I noticed no difference what so ever. The car actually seemed like it may have taken longer to rev. After I drove the car around for 30 min or so trying to feel a difference I went back and installed my Injen CAI. That made a huge difference, and only cost $50 more than the pulleys.

I'm not sure that's entirely true. How the weight is distributed in relationship the the crank would, in theory at least, make a difference.

I am saying that just because you pay twice the money for the same thing doesn't make the more expensive one any better.

Thanks to brent over on I-club I found these for the alternator pulley removal:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108973&highlight=screwdriver+alternator
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375942&highlight=screwdriver+alternator

I just did this recently on my 4EAT, well except for the alternator pulley. That removal requires removal of the alternator and a vice to hold the spindle.

The power steering pulley was a breeze. Just take it off with 17mm socket.

The crank pulley is easy too, once i grew a pair. I got a T-bar long enough to reach from the crank to the power steering fluid reservoir and wired it in place with a couple loops of wire.

Note: wire the bar to the passenger side of the reservoir, cuz the crank turns the other way!

Then...hop in, pop the ignition and let it turn over a couple of times.

You're done!

Christian.

^^^ How about you read the thread before you post. I already know all of what you said, except you can take the alternator pulley off without removing the alternator. Did you have any trouble with the crank pully causing vibrations? My car is running horribly with it.

My apologies,

I was offering another perspective. But now since you're whining about it, maybe you should take your own advice and spend some time researching the topic before asking everyone to save you and tell you how to do it.

Christian

Well I'm not whining, and I did research. Read the thread. I ask educated questions. I wasn't trying to be mean to you, but 8 or 9 people just stop by and do the same kind of post you did. It isn't helpful and it takes the topic off its actual point.