One of PDXTuning's main goals is to post information that is beneficial to the community. In a passing conversation last year we spoke with TurboXS about some products that would benefit the community, a knock light is one of the ones we discussed. Recently as part of their DTEC fuel computer they released a knock light. PDXTuning immediately asked for the KnockLite as a stand alone product so we can help people in the community with other forms of EM understand the state of their tune.

http://www.turboxs.com/uploaded_images/342.jpg

The two most common forms of engine management for the Subaru's right now are reflashes and piggybacks. I will hold this discussion to the UTEC and to reflashes. Since PDXTuning tunes AP Protuner, EcuTek, and UTECs commonly it is easy for us to give detailed information about how they all work. Since the AP and EcuTek both rely on the stock ECU to run the car this discussion will treat them as equals.


What is a TurboXS KnockLite?


The TurboXS KnockLite is a simple stand alone unit that can be added to any electronic ignition car to monitor for detonation, and indicate a given RPM to shift. Since it has built in tach drivers it works on cars like the Legacy GT that do not have a engine speed signal to tap.

Discussion:


One of the most important aspects of a tune is the safety margin. If you push a setup to the point of regular detonation it will eventually fail. Detonation results in spikes of cylinder pressure that will either mechanically fail some engine component, or cause the motor to absorb additional heat that will melt the piston top. Keeping detonation at bay is absolutely essential, and ultimately it limits the amount of power a car will make on pump gas. This limitation is the reason why race fuel makes more power than pump gas. Race fuel has a greater resistance to detonation, which allows the tuner to achieve the optimum timing, fuel, and boost combination for your particular car's setup.

One benefit the UTEC has over reflashes is it notifies the operator when detonation is detected. Unfortunately the UTEC does not have a learning system like the reflash to deal with detonation. The UTEC relies on the tuner to set up the map so that it does not regularly detonate. It does react to detonation by pulling timing, just like a reflash, but it currently does not have the ability to adapt to a problem spot. In order to make up for this the UTEC notifies the operator by flashing the CEL after a detonation event is detected.

The stock ECU has a learning system in it, which over time adapts to the octane limitations of your car and fuel. While many people prefer the learning ability of the stock ECU, they are relying solely on the hardware to detect and adapt. While this is normally adequate, there are motors out there that fail due to detonation with reflashes so the system must not be perfect.

Each model ECU is different, so I will have to make some general statements next. The 02 WRX ECU was particularly bad about reacting to detonation at times. Subaru decided to stop listening for detonation after about 5700 rpm due to a limitation in the hardware. After the cutoff RPM the ECU would run the maximum allowed timing, without regard to occurrence of detonation. Provided the map was setup properly you could still tune safely. However in order to get the maximum out of the car on 93 octane you had to be absolutely sure that the car was never operated at it's maximum with lesser fuel in it. While it is easy to say you will never put in 89 or 87 octane fuel, there is nothing you can do about a gas station having old or otherwise bad fuel in their 93 tanks.

Subaru figured out the design flaw in that system and improved the system in future cars. Now the hardware is better so it is able to listen to higher RPMs, and after the point they choose to stop listening they do not add max timing. This has to have improved motor longevity, and allows the tuner to tune your car to a higher power level more confidently.

The question still remains, how often is my car knocking? One common statement made by car owners is I never hear detonation so it must not happen. We have come across people who should know what detonation sounds like, but are not hearing it. Part of the problem is detonation becomes damaging before it becomes audible. This means you may never be able to hear it while it is taking it's toll on your motor.

If you get in a bone stock car and romp on it you may well hear detonation. The problem is there are so many variables that contribute to lowering the detonation threshold. For example if you sit at a light for 45 seconds and then take off in a spirited manner your intercooler is not as cool as it was when the car was on the dyno, getting custom tuned. In this situation the map your tuner made may no longer be appropriate. 20-30 seconds later when the intercooler cools off everything is back to normal, but what happened as you rowed through the gears?

Everyone always wants to put a boost gauge in their car. Others ask what are the three most important gauges to add to the car. Typically the response is some combination of boost, EGT, oil temp, and oil pressure. If you think about it a knock detection system is as important as any one of those, if not more. None of the systems in there will kill a motor as fast as detonation. In fact one of the main reasons why you want to know what you are boosting at is to determine if you may be detonating. If you are boosting beyond the capability of the fuel you will detonate, if you are boosting beyond the level tuned for you may be detonating.

What about fuel and timing? They have as great of an effect on causing detonation as boost does. Rarely do people add wide band O2 sensors, and even fewer people monitor the timing they are running at any given moment. This is where a knock indication system is so valuable. If you rely on the engine management to do it's job you do not have to know what AFR, timing, or boost you are running. What may be more important that the exact AFR, boost, or timing you are running is if you are detonating. The TurboXS KnockLite is an inexpensive tool to help you understand more of what is going on in your motor. It is easy and clean to install, and perhaps best of all it only cost $129 MSRP.

Yes, it also is a shift light, so anyone out there wanting the extra little coolness of knowing when to shift you have that built right in. I can say personally that the shift light helps me out a lot, since I seem to have the habit of driving down the freeway in third gear cause I can not hear my motor with the stock CBE installed.



Jarrad

Now for the installation into my Legacy.



http://www.pdxtuning.com/images/TurboXS/knock_lite.jpg







Installation is very easy, there are only 4 wired to hook up: power, ground, tach, and knock signal. We just tapped the signals at the stock ECU to keep wire routing to a minimum. I will put up the pinout for anyone who wants to install this as soon as I have a chance to make it all pretty.



As I said above the electronics inside will convert a coilpack signal into a a tach signal, so on our cars all you do is pick up one of the 4 coil pack signals off the ECU and you are set.



If you want you can install a separate knock sensor, but most people will want to just use the factory one, since it is optimally placed on the motor.



Hope that helps,

Jarrad

971-221-7825

sales@pdxtuning.com

http://www.pdxtuning.com/images/TurboXS/knock_lite.jpg

Cool! :cool: Thanks for the review Jarrad.

Would a high quality bosch knock sensor working independently be better than the stock one? From what I here, the block is already tapped for it and it is a simple install. I am def. gonna get a knock sensor. I just want to make sure it is accurate and will work at the very least up to 7k rpm.

Note: I will not be using the tach signal as I don't want to confuse 'shift' and 'knock' (and the STi has a shift light :rolleyes: )

Cool tool!

How do you set the rpm for the shift light feature?

How can you tell the difference between the shift light and a knock event?

I'd use a sepereate sensor if possible unless TurboXS put in circuitry to prevent loading the stock knock sensor circuit. You can do it yourself with a capacitor but its just good to not mess with it.

is there anyway to calibrate the sensor?

This device appears to be a simple engine noise meter, a far cry from a knock meter. No method to adjust gain. No method to specify frequency. No method to specify "knock window."

I was fortunate enough to pick up one while at TurboXS Australia back in april for testing on the QT.

I also have knock link. The knock lite works better/consistent and very easy to setup and calibrate.

IMHO
Going to be some fun with reflashes now that people will know if their car is knocking or not and not just putting blind faith in some tuners reflash ability.

If ya can't see/hear it knocking it ain't. :lol:

']This device appears to be a simple engine noise meter, a far cry from a knock meter. No method to adjust gain. No method to specify frequency. No method to specify "knock window."

Have you taken a look at one or are you just guessing?

Have you taken a look at one or are you just guessing?

Does it matter? He will rain on any parade he can. I think we should start a nasioc pay-pal donation to get Jon laid so he can stop being so uptight.

Oh my :) let's try to keep this thread on track. With my shadetree mechanic skills, my 02 is in constant fear of its life already.

You can set the shift point by holding the button down till the light comes on green, then revving to 1/2 the desired shift point, and pushing the button again.

Shift is indicated with a Green light. Moderate knock with Amber (Red + Green together), and Heavy knock with Red.

It's not possible to hook it up without the tach signal - it needs to know the RPM so that it can "filter" background engine noise. Otherwise it would just be lighting up constantly at higher RPMs like a KnockLink. The light is calibrated by letting it record engine noise by reving to idle, half of redline, and near redline in turn - the sensor then interpolates the points to come up with an engine noise "curve" that it uses to distinguish between background noise and knock events (a knock sensor is just a microphone, after all). The sensitivity can then be adjusted up or down from there.

It's a pretty trick unit. If you have a DTEC, it'll supply Tach and Knock level inputs to be logged or displayed as well.

']This device appears to be a simple engine noise meter, a far cry from a knock meter. No method to adjust gain. No method to specify frequency. No method to specify "knock window."
*golf clap*

Yes, it also "appears" to be just an empty shiny container with some wires and a blinky light. When you buy one, crack it open, and reverse engineer it, be sure to let us know what it actually is and what its logic is.

That said, I'll wait until the incredible price gouging subsides to the point where this product is available for a reasonable price with reasonable profits still plentiful for TurboXS and distributors.

Is there any other place to intercept the signal that in not near the ECU?

+1 to serendipity for the details!

Wow, that's quite a feature set :)

That said, I'll wait until the incredible price gouging subsides to the point where this product is available for a reasonable price with reasonable profits still plentiful for TurboXS and distributors.It's still a bit cheaper than a KnockLink and the MSD knock light, isn't it? I would like to see it drop below the $100 mark.

So if this unit just goes off the stock knock sensor, how is this better then the flashing CEL that the UTEC provides off the stock knock sensor :confused:

Sprry for the delay in response, and thanks Serendipity for getting good information out there.

You can use a separate knock sensor if you want, although it does not pull the signal down going to the stock ECU so you do not have to.

I thought $129 shipped was pretty reasonable. jblaine if you think that is unreasonable call me and we can talk about it.

Jarrad
971-221-7825

I dont see the point of this, the UTEC already flashes the CEL when there is knock
:confused: Is this able to be used as a standalone thing without a utec? Is that the point?

Yep, you can use it with any EM, no UTEC required.

I would think this would be more reliable than the utec for knock detection as it reads directly off the knock sensor and would hopefully be faster reacting. I think it would also be a good safety measure for those adjusting the utec knock sensitivity settings as it should help tune a good sensitivity level in the utec settings.... I'm running a utec and I definately want to get one of these to add to my arsenal of tuning safety measures. Jarrad you may be hearing from me very soon!

a big, flashing, dedicated light will get my attention much better than a CEL.

interesting product

ok after reading the thread more in depth I can definately see a point in this (speaking as if you already have a UTEC, if you dont have a UTEC I would say this is a GREAT idea.)
Seems like basically a knocklink BUT also a shift light. In a much nicer, more compact package...

Its def not something I would use as my cel flash is plenty for me but I guess its not a bad idea...

I think people have a lot of the same confusion about the knock lite as they did about the DTEC when it came out.

Reality is TurboXS can't focus on JUST Subarus and Evos - they need more generic products (and not just boost controllers) to grow the business. The DTEC line and Knock Lite are part of that. Don't keep thinking "But I already have a UTEC" - yes, you do get _some_ of the functionality for free with the UTEC. But think of folks with 2.5RSs who can now go to TurboXS and get a full tuning suite - DTEC + Knock Lite + Tuner, from one company, that integrates beautifully and looks very trick hooked to a Gameboy. You can tune fuel, log and monitor EGTs + Wideband AFR, and have a nice knock and shift-lite to boot, all for under $800. Ditto for just about any other car. Even though they're still expanding what cars they make full-featured UTECs for, the DTEC gives them an in to alllll the other cars that there would never be enough volume to justify the custom development of a UTEC.

if i didn't have a stock knock sensor (i am using a GM sensor) how could i hook this up?

if i didn't have a stock knock sensor (i am using a GM sensor) how could i hook this up?The better question is: "Why would I bother?" What prompts anyone to believe the TurboXS knock detection algorithm for a Subaru engine is any better than the one used by the stock ECU?

thanks jackass, next time hit the back button instead of the "post quick reply"

no stock sensor because i don't have a stock ecu

<---

']The better question is: "Why would I bother?" What prompts anyone to believe the TurboXS knock detection algorithm for a Subaru engine is any better than the one used by the stock ECU?Because people have popped motors while running the stock ECU?

Because the WRX ECU stops listening for knock at high RPM?

I'm not saying the TurboXS knock detection algorithm is "better" for these reasons, but I *am* saying that the stock ECU's detection algorithm is not perfect.

No way, Subaru engineers spent eleventy billion dollars in testing on everything and it is all perfect.

My question is not weather or not to get it, or even weather or not to get a seperate mic (yes, i'm gonna get a seperate Bosch one), but weather to go TXS or Link (leaning toward the TXS).

Is there anywhere else to tap into the neccessary wires away from the ECU?

No way, Subaru engineers spent eleventy billion dollars in testing on everything and it is all perfect.Aww, crap... eleventy? I thought it was only oneteen. ;)

']The better question is: "Why would I bother?" What prompts anyone to believe the TurboXS knock detection algorithm for a Subaru engine is any better than the one used by the stock ECU?

Why would I bother :lol:

Some situations you fail to consider

(1)Because early 04 STI's that Subaru "engineers" so wonderfully programmed had to be reflashed to stop the pinging. Engineers are never wrong :rolleyes:

Since I own one of those early 04 STI's and had a knock link installed at 500 miles I could add toluene till the knocking stopped at the electronic level till the UTEC came out. Knock lite works the same.

(2) Since "non engineers" are now able to reflash the stock ECU and send it to all climates of the USA etc. Could it be possible that they screw up the programming as good as the factory engineers on the early 04's only now the knock is at the electronic level and as such the owner doesn't know his cars knocking. Blissful in the knowledge he got a wonderful reflashed EMS :rolleyes:

(3) I have heard many stories of tuners who also set the knock count on the UTEC to over 30 so that the owner thinks he has a well tuned car but its knocking and the CEL light doesn't flash. With the Knocklite's user install friendly setup it gives the owner of a badly tuned UTEC an easy double check system and hense weed out the bad tuner who blames the UTEC for the customers blown motor.

(3) Since I'm one of only a few who have Knock Link, TurboXS protuner with knock sensor, UTEC and Knocklite in my car I can say that it works very nicely. I also have Delta Dash.

(4) I'm also one of the very few who have actually toured TurboXS engineering in Australia and have met first hand with the University trained electrical engineers they employ. It ain't no Ma and Pa outfit with over 25 employees there alone not like some EM companies here.
They have managed to attract people from other Australian EM companies which I not allowed to reveal. I'm guessing Motec and Autronic are on your sub par engineering list also. :rolleyes:

BY

ok now that we have put jon on a spit and roasted him ..

how can i run this standalone w/o a stock knock sensor?

how can i run this standalone w/o a stock knock sensor?All you need to do is get a stock knock sensor, bolt it to the block and plug the knock light into it, not sure if it is compatible with other knock sensors... On TurboXS's site (http://www.turboxs.com/shop_prod.php?what_category=7) you can pick up the Knock Light along with a Bosch knock sensor.

BTW, anyone have the pinouts used to tap into the knock sensor? Anyone have ideas on stealth mounting of the knock light which still lets you get to that button used to program it?

So is there a benefit to this if you have a Tuner PRO that already has the Bosch knock sensor??? Or is this just extra security if you already have the PRO?

Sounds like a good product to me. It's on 'The List' now.

The knock indicator lights on the TunerPro are hard to read. This will be much more capable of getting your attention if there is a problem. You can use the same knock sensor that came with your TunerPro, but the TunerPro does not really have an equivalent function to the knock light. Also the TunerPro does not have the shift light at all.

Jarrad

but weather to go TXS or Link (leaning toward the TXS).

http://www.turboxs.com/more_info.php?ID=212


Note the diagram. The competitor is a knock-link.

-Nathan

Thanks Nathan and Jarrad... explains it well. Looks like I'll snatch a cheap non-pro Tuner and then the KnockLite.

FWIW the knock link still has the controls to adjust the threshold, ect. why doesnt TXS incorporate that?

http://www.turboxs.com/more_info.php?ID=212


Note the diagram. The competitor is a knock-link.

-Nathan

right on. And does the fact that it is non-volatile memory mean I won't have to reprogram it after unplugging my battery?

FWIW the knock link still has the controls to adjust the threshold, ect. why doesnt TXS incorporate that?

Because it's not a single level you can twiddle with a knob. The feature as presented here "listens" to your engine while you set it and hold it at 3 different RPMs and produces a noise floor "curve" across the RPM band. Much nicer than a single adjustment. BTW I'm not a Knock Lite user yet, I'm just regurgitating what Serendipity said earlier in the thread :banana:

was never really sure if this was something i should have, other than it would just have been more conspicuous than the check engine light while blinking and therefore i would better notice it while grasping the wheel for dear life as my Rexy shot down the road like a rocket :D

but appears from the write-up that it is certainly more than that.... a system of 'checks and balances' if you will for the UTEC tuned by a vendor (like mine).

that said. I'm SOLD.


does it come with a 'clear cut' installation of which wires to splice into on the utec/ecu?

If anyone has installed this, an install write-up with pics would be great ;)

Is there a diagram or instructions showing which wires are which coming out of the ECU (specifically the knock/coil pack wire cuz I don't know which one that is).

EDIT: Also let me ask this (if it hasn't been already covered)... what is better for monitoring knock. The knocklite wired into the factory knock sensor or a separate Bosch knock sensor bolted onto the block (same place as factory but on pass. side of the block)???? I thought the factory knock sensor stops listening after a certain RPM?

thats where i gotta think 'no'. only because isn't this a universal product? in other words they're selling this not as a wrx or sti specific product, but useable in most vehicles.... so certainly they can't include pics or all car's ECU's....................

PDX can you help us figure out which wires to tap on the wrx and sti ecu's? would it be same across the board of model yrs and wrx vs. sti, or different wires for each.

course i do remember having an old 2002 ecu pinout diagram....... not sure what i did with it though.... assume its likely floating around nasioc somewheres. little search prolly do the trick......................

^^ True... I'm sure there's a pinout somewhere, just takes a bit of searching. I was just being lazy but it shouldn't be hard at all.

I thought the factory knock sensor stops listening after a certain RPM?It's not that the knock sensor itself stops listening, it's that the ECU starts ignoring it after a certain RPM because of the noise level.

It's not that the knock sensor itself stops listening, it's that the ECU starts ignoring it after a certain RPM because of the noise level.
Ahh, sweet clarification. Thank you VERY much.

It's not that the knock sensor itself stops listening, it's that the ECU starts ignoring it after a certain RPM because of the noise level.

I wouldn't say thats accurate. Its been said that the ECU for '02/'03 isn't fast enough to do computations required above 5k. Noise level is not an issue...

You mean my ECU needs to be held back a grade? Dang :(

I just bought the UTEC TunerPro with the additional knock sensor. Where's the best place to locate it and install it? Does anyone have pictures?

Thanks,
Justin

I just bought the UTEC TunerPro with the additional knock sensor. Where's the best place to locate it and install it? Does anyone have pictures?

Thanks,
Justin
If you know where the factory knock sensor is on the TOP of the driver's side of the block, there is a corresponding spot to put the Bosch knock sensor on the pass. side. That's where I put mine when I had the Tuner Pro.

If you know where the factory knock sensor is on the TOP of the driver's side of the block, there is a corresponding spot to put the Bosch knock sensor on the pass. side. That's where I put mine when I had the Tuner Pro.

Me too. It gives good results.

On topic...a friend of mine got this and its sweet. Says it works well.

question....

so if the ECU stops listening above 5k or so (2002).... do that mean this knock light will not indicate knocks above 5k??? how bout the utec? is it still indicating knocks above 5k rpms (or wherever the ECU exactly stops listening)?

i assume yes: just because the ecu isn't listening doesn't mean the UTEC isn't? dido for the knock light? or am i wrong and the utec and knock light are both being told by the ECU when to indicate knocks.....

question....

so if the ECU stops listening above 5k or so (2002).... do that mean this knock light will not indicate knocks above 5k??? how bout the utec? is it still indicating knocks above 5k rpms (or wherever the ECU exactly stops listening)?

i assume yes: just because the ecu isn't listening doesn't mean the UTEC isn't? dido for the knock light? or am i wrong and the utec and knock light are both being told by the ECU when to indicate knocks.....

Your assumption is correct. The UTEC and the KnockLight work independently from the stock ECU (as well as from eachother) and have their own knock detection capabilities. They listen throughout the entire rev band.

Hopefully I can really road tune my car well now since I have another Tuner (sold the old one, just ordered one from JSC Speed) and just ordered the KnockLite from PDX!!

what do you mean another 'tuner'?

what do you mean another 'tuner'?
Did you read what I had in parentheses?? I sold my old tuner Pro... I now just ordered a tuner... because I'd like to be able to road tune my car again. :confused:

I woulda traded my tuner+$ for a pro! If anyone wants to let me know.

I wouldn't say thats accurate. Its been said that the ECU for '02/'03 isn't fast enough to do computations required above 5k. Noise level is not an issue...

chris are you saying that 04+ wrx ecus DO listen for knock up there?

The range that the 04 WRX ECU listens for knock is greater than that of the 02 WRX. There is a limit, it can be changed with a reflash.
Jarrad

Just got mine today... FAST shipping from PDX (thanks again Jarrad and co.). Here's a pic of the contents... will update this post with more when I install it (hopefully sunday).

http://infamousdx.com/wrx/txs_knocklite.jpg

Just got mine today... FAST shipping from PDX (thanks again Jarrad and co.). Here's a pic of the contents... will update this post with more when I install it (hopefully sunday).


Yes, install pics would be great!

I installed mine on my 04 Cobra this afternoon. I haven't hooked it to the knock sensor and the thing is still lighting up when I rev the engine. I set the light up according to the instructions and set it to the lowest sensitivity.
Anyone else have this issue?

The shift light works fine if that helps. The cobra doesn't have a knock sensor, so I plan on using a seperate sensor wired directly to the knocklite.

does anyone know what the knock output to Dtec wire signal is like? what tyoe of signal does it output?

Finished my install of the knocklite yesterday. Took a bit longer than expected because do to cable management and making it look nice. The housing needs to come in black in the future. Does not look stealthy at all. Will be expertimenting by using shrink tube around the housing tomorrow. Would just need to cut a small hole for the button.

Finished my install of the knocklite yesterday. Took a bit longer than expected because do to cable management and making it look nice. The housing needs to come in black in the future. Does not look stealthy at all. Will be expertimenting by using shrink tube around the housing tomorrow. Would just need to cut a small hole for the button.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/sbo3cobra/raptorshiftlight.jpg

Mount it in the AC vent. The above isn't a TXS knocklite but you get the idea. It wouldn't be too hard to do in the WRX.

i bought one from pdx tuning as well, and it was shipped very quickly! i recommend them to anyone!

now... i have t.w.e. stage II heads/cams/springs/retainers and im trying to tune my custom turbo kit on my 02 2.5rs. anyone have a similar setup? whats your light's sensitivity set at? are my heads and cams that much louder than stock? i know they are lifting farther and faster, so i would imagine they are much louder!

Finished my install of the knocklite yesterday. Took a bit longer than expected because do to cable management and making it look nice. The housing needs to come in black in the future. Does not look stealthy at all. Will be expertimenting by using shrink tube around the housing tomorrow. Would just need to cut a small hole for the button.

F-it. Black paint is your friend. Or maybe take it apart and have it black anodized. :disco:

I dont see the point of this, the UTEC already flashes the CEL when there is knock
:confused:

And that's exactly why I bought one. I can barely see that thing in the day time unless I'm looking directly at it....which is very rare. When it does blink when I'm looking at the road, I wonder if that is what I really saw. I don't want to have to pay attention to the little faint check engine light when I'm driving hard.

Which wires do you tap into?

Any new reviews, guys?

it is def a good idea to tune with something else as well as the knocklite, so you can see if you are indeed knocking when the light flashes. i am having a tough time calibrating the lite. find someone with a J&S like i did!

Having just sold my TurboXS TunerPro kit, I no longer have any visual notification of engine knock so I'm looking at the KnockLite.

I am curious what is involved with the hookup? So far, details in this thread seem sparse.

Specifically:
-need an rpm pickup? If so, how do you obtain this on an 05STi? Is it the same as mentioned by PDX with the LegGT install?
-what is the wiring like using an auxilliary knock sensor?
-anything else to be aware of?

Having just sold my TurboXS TunerPro kit, I no longer have any visual notification of engine knock so I'm looking at the KnockLite.

I am curious what is involved with the hookup? So far, details in this thread seem sparse.

Specifically:
-need an rpm pickup? If so, how do you obtain this on an 05STi? Is it the same as mentioned by PDX with the LegGT install?
-what is the wiring like using an auxilliary knock sensor?
-anything else to be aware of?

Four wires...ignition, ground, rpm (splice into wire from ecu), and the knock sensor (microphone).

Alright, so I've been looking around...where can i get a bosch knock sensor (already have the lite)? Perhaps I was not looking in the right spots, but I looked for just the sensor via google, jscspeed, turboxs, pdx, and some others and couldn't find it (by itself).

Alright, so I've been looking around...where can i get a bosch knock sensor (already have the lite)? Perhaps I was not looking in the right spots, but I looked for just the sensor via google, jscspeed, turboxs, pdx, and some others and couldn't find it (by itself).

Ebay.

Try tapping into the factory knock sensor wire at the ECU, like we do with the J&S unit. Be sure to use a shielded cable, to avoid introducing electrical interference.

Here's how we make the cable that's included in the kit:

We use 22 gauge, twisted pair, with foil shield and drain wire. There are lots of different part numbers and cable brands that will work, but we like Belden 9461, because it's easy to strip.

At the J&S end of the cable, we connect the black and the drain wires to the system ground pin, then we connect the white wire to the knock input pin on the unit.

At the other end of the cable, we cut off the black and the shield wires, as they are not used. The white wire is then spliced into the knock signal wire, near the ECU. Make sure that you don't cut into the factory shield, as this will short out the knock signal.

darioc: Did you do a temp install of the knocklite on a J&S equipped car? Might be ok if both cars have similar noise levels.

Try tapping into the factory knock sensor wire at the ECU,

Which Ecu wire is that?

Which Ecu wire is that?Depends on model year and model. Consult appropriate wiring diagram.

I have an 04 STi and I cant seem to locate an appropriate wiring diagram. Anyone care to help? I would love to install my knocklite but I cant seem to be able to find the knock wire.

Just added this to my Christmas list!

I have an 04 STi and I cant seem to locate an appropriate wiring diagram. Anyone care to help? I would love to install my knocklite but I cant seem to be able to find the knock wire.

Have turboXS email you the ECM wireing diagram for the 04 in PDF.

I have 04 STI and pinout #25 located on connector B136 is the knock signal used for the knocklite.

subscribe :)

I'm curious what people who tap in to the stock knock signal at the ECU are using for the wire. It was recommended to use a shielded wire. I just ordered a KnockLite last week so I may be getting it soon. The knock signal wire for the unit isn't shielded right?

Have people been successfully running the knocklite with the unshielded wire? Any "experts" want to chime in on this?

The wire should be shielded.

regards
Pete

Does that mean one should open up the knocklite and replace the knock wire with a shielded wire?

The wire should be shielded.

regards
Pete

hmm, i'm having mine installed real soon...would like to know about anything I should do so I can do it right the first time (will be using stock knock sensor).

If you're using the stock knock sensor I think my previous question will be your biggest concern before doing the install. Otherwise, it seems pretty straight forward. Mine should be coming in the mail.


hmm, i'm having mine installed real soon...would like to know about anything I should do so I can do it right the first time (will be using stock knock sensor).

Does that mean one should open up the knocklite and replace the knock wire with a shielded wire?

Use a shielded wire. Use the signal wire(s) to connect the knock sensor to the Knocklite. The shield is connected at one end only to a ground such as at the Knocklite ground.

regards
Pete

Alright, I gotta go get that wire...what should I look for specifically? Is it a specialty item or could I just get it at a hardware store?

You can use some audio or mic cable. They are usually somewhere around 22/2 w/ shield.

It's still not clear to me if I want to unsolder the knock signal cable from the knocklite or not.

You can use some audio or mic cable. They are usually somewhere around 22/2 w/ shield.

What is 22/2? Also, wouldn't audio cable melt in the engine bay?

What is 22/2? Also, wouldn't audio cable melt in the engine bay?

22 = AWG, the wire gauge.
2 = number of wires

The cable will melt if its directly sitting on something hot. You realize you have lots of "normal" wires under your hood from the factory, right?

22 = AWG, the wire gauge.
2 = number of wires

The cable will melt if its directly sitting on something hot. You realize you have lots of "normal" wires under your hood from the factory, right?

It makes sense, but I did not know if they would've used a higher quality sleave. I'll go to a local hardware store and ask for "shielded 22 guage wire." How much length would I need...a few feet each? Also, any issues going with a lower guage (larger wire)?

So are there any specific instructions for hooking it up?? The instructions given were a little vaugue.

I think its often referred to as "control" wire. They often use it for wiring home control and security systems. I don't know the length. Something like this would work fine I'd imagine:

http://www.av-outlet.com/media/DC222S.JPG

can i use larger wire?

Still pretty confused on what wire to use and where. I went to a few places, and the smallest I could find was 18 guage. Also, is the need for shielded wire only if you use a seperate sensor?

same questions as before...also wondering if the sheilded wire is only necessary when using seperate knock sensor

18 gauge is fine. Thicker wont hurt you its just harder to work with sometimes if you need to solder into a small connector or something. I would use shielded for any type of knock sensor hookup. Ive used shielded wire for all my gauge installs. Yes it could melt but it is more durable than a regular wire because it has a jacket and shield protecting the wires inside.

any more specifics? what wire would it replace and where?

subscribe... I still have my knocklite sitting here because I'm still not clear about this shielded wire business. I opened up the back of the knocklite and it seems impossible to get the board out without removing the white goop.

Again, for the knock signal wire, do we have to unsolder the old wire from inside the knocklite? Then solder in a new shielded wire?

EDIT: To be clear, I want to use the ECU knock signal, not a separate knock sensor.

you could ground the shield at the block if you wanted. a shield is just held at a fixed potential to avoid electromagnetic coupling.

The caveat on this is that there are numerous knock sensors and cable types and various interference sources in the car so some cases may require a different approach.

When connecting sensitive signals from high impedance sensors ideally you should use shielded cable. The shield reduces the amount of interference from the outside reaching the signal wires on the inside of the cable. The shield should be connected to a "solid" reference point such as the ground of the car. The shield should be connected at one end only to prevent circulating currents.

So using a easily obtainable cable such as;

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062643&cp=&pg=2&kw=microphone+cable&parentPage=search

NOTE: This is not a recommendation for this cable as we would ideally use a specific type of cable depending on the job. For example a twisted pair overall shielded cable with the outer shealth specific for the environment or perhaps whatever we could find in the box!

You would connect the signal to the inner wires using one or both of the wires depending on your application. The outer shield wire would be connected to a ground. In practical terms join the shield to the 0V lead at the Knocklite.

regards
Pete

Just had it installed w/o shielded cable...seems to work fine. Lost_Pete...are you an engineer?

Just had it installed w/o shielded cable...seems to work fine. Lost_Pete...are you an engineer?

Good to hear it is working fine.

Yes I am an engineer..........

regards
Pete

Good to hear it is working fine.

Yes I am an engineer..........

regards
Pete

Lost Pete used to be TurboXS_Pete. He knows what he is talking about.

-Nathan

I just made up a new harness. I found some twisted pair shielded cable at radio shack. I cut the white knock wire out of the stock "harness" and I soldered in on of the wires from the shielded wire. I then used shrink tubing to join the two wires back together at the knocklite end of things. I guess I'll solder a new wire to the shield braid and attach it somewhere to the body ground. I haven't installed the knocklite yet. I only had time to put in the new wire. I still have to figure out which wires to connect for a 05 USDM FXT ECU.

EDIT: I don't think this thread should be in the UTEC section. The knocklite can be used with ANY EM or no EM at all.

I knew it! My dad is an engineer too. He also has the inability to answer questions in 'layman's terms.'

I didn't want to say it.. but yea, couldn't get a straight answer out of pete.. =P At least not a straight answer I could process and be sure about so I just did what made sense to me.

I knew it! My dad is an engineer too. He also has the inability to answer questions in 'layman's terms.'

I call it "geniuos syndrome." He prolly got really frustrated with us tards. Pete, thx for continuing to try to explain it w/o calling us names.

I didn't want to say it.. but yea, couldn't get a straight answer out of pete.. =P At least not a straight answer I could process and be sure about so I just did what made sense to me.

:lol:

If "engineer speak" makes no sense then just ask me to translate to "man in the street" speak (MITS) or in KISS language.

You also have Nathan and Jermaine who really do know their "stuff".

regards
Pete

EDIT: I don't think this thread should be in the UTEC section. The knocklite can be used with ANY EM or no EM at all.
Agreed. I just happend to see this in the summary when I was up one level. Otherwise I wouldn't have come into the UTEC thread.

<----knocklite user with AP/ST.

I also have the AP/ST.

As far as 'fine tuning' goes...what sensitivity level to most of you use?

As always, "helpful_Pete" :)

Great to see you back.

S.

I also have the AP/ST.

As far as 'fine tuning' goes...what sensitivity level to most of you use?
I'm on 6 now.

As always, "helpful_Pete" :)

Great to see you back.

S.

Thanks...........

regards
Pete

It would be great if the KnockLite directions were available on TurboXSs website...

I had mine installed by a shop, and they even had to spend quite a while trying to figure out where to put what cause the instructions provided are pretty lame.

I had mine installed by a shop, and they even had to spend quite a while trying to figure out where to put what cause the instructions provided are pretty lame.

Do you know how to set the sensitivity level and how to do the initial calibration using RPM points?

I do...it's in the little instruction thingy it comes with. To enter calibration mode, press the button fairly rapidly four times. When it is ready, I think it'll blink once. You then let the car sit at idle and press the button once, and it takes it's recording, and it might blink once when it's done. You then hold the engine at 1/2 of redline (3500 rpm for sti) then press it again. You then hold the engine as close to redline as poss (use second gear and freeway on-ramp, check oil before going out) and press the button again.

If I remember correctly, the light flashes green while it is recording and then blinks amber when it's ready for the next one. Also, it is my impression that you can drive however you want throughout the calibration process, you just wanna be @ the set-points (idle, half-redline, redline) when you press the button. Also, the car must be fully warmed up for it to work properly.

For sensitivity level, press button 3 times to increase, 2 times to decrease...or maybe the other way around. Either way, you press the button two or three times, and it will blink a number of times related to the level it is at...1 being the most sensitive. To test, free-rev the engine...if it blinks on its own while free-revving, it is likely too sensitive. I have mine on 3 or 4.

Last but not least, if it is installed properly, when you start the car, it should blink red, yellow (amber), then green...that let's you know it is recieving the knock signal.

Ahh yes, to set shiftpoint, hold the button down till it blinks or turns green, then press it again at 1/2 the level you want it to go off at. So, if you want the shiftlight to go off at 6000, press the button at 3000.

So you don't set the knocklite by just free-reving the car huh? Interesting. I have been getting quite a bit of knock activity and I have a hard time believing it is accurate right now. I think it might be set too sensitive.

does it go thru the three lights at startup?

does it go thru the three lights at startup?
Sure does.

if your car is not tuned for your gas...that 91 california crap may be hurting u. i'd try to recalibrate with load on the engine...it makes it a lot easier to hold the engine speed steady while it records the sound. (a knock sensor is basically a microphone)

also, perhaps you could throw in a few gallons of 100 octane and see if that reduces it. If u get less lights with higher octane, then u know the problem is not the light.

if your car is not tuned for your gas...that 91 california crap may be hurting u. i'd try to recalibrate with load on the engine...it makes it a lot easier to hold the engine speed steady while it records the sound. (a knock sensor is basically a microphone)

also, perhaps you could throw in a few gallons of 100 octane and see if that reduces it. If u get less lights with higher octane, then u know the problem is not the light.

Yeah, if only race gas were easy to come by down here...

hmm...I know there is a 76 with 100 octane way up in Fullerton. There's gotta be somewhere around you that has race gas. Often motorcycle/moto-x type shops will have 5 gallon drums of race gas.. VP has a distribution center in Wildomar (Murrieta/Temecula area). Gives ya some options.

For you guys who installed this with the bosch knock sensor (P/N 0-261-231-006), does it come with wires or do you just solder the power and signal wire to leads on the sensor?

And regarding the shielded wire, if it was that important why didn't TurboXS supply the Knocklite originally with one? I agree it's a good idea and couldn't hurt...but has anyone had an issue installing the Knocklite as recieved?

I ended up having mine installed as recieved. So far, I have been using datalogs and the light to determine where to set my sensitivity. So far I am all the way up to 7 of 10 (1 being most sensitive) as I have been getting false readings. The light was showing signs of det on more sensitive settings when in reality quite the opposite was happening (ECU advancing timing during WOT). I would imagine that a shielded wire would be much more accurate. I am tempted to run very slightly lower on my octane (91 instead of 92...I believe that is a 10 point drop, correct?) in order to induce some det during a log and compare with the knocklite.

Hello,

My knocklite arrived yesterday and I'm getting ready to install it in my 2002 WRX. I don't have a separate knock sensor (I'll probably add one later) so I just want to wire it using the stock sensor for now. In one of his original post Jarrad mentioned that he did all his wiring for his LGT at the ECU. I assume he meant he got the power and ground taps there as well.

I've studied the ECU wiring diagram for the 02' WRX located on North Ursalia's web site (Viewable here) (http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wrxpin.html).

My plan is to run all the wires to the ECU and tap the following wires for their respective function:

ECU Connector - Pin# - Content
B135 - (B)9 - Supplies 5V power to several sensors
B135 - (B)4 - Knock sensor signal
B136 - (C)9 - Engine speed (RPM)
B135 - (B)19 - Ground (Sensor)

I just want to confirm with you guys that have installed the knocklight before that what I plan to do will not interfere with any of the other ECU or sensor functions, sensitivity, or accuracy.

As far as grounds go would it be better to use a chassis grounding point or tap one of the ground at the ECU?

Any suggestions, comments, or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

I'm replying to this thread on NASIOC because I find little info on the Evo boards in the UK or US.

I bought one of these off Ebay and installed it (and then removed it!) yesterday. Using the stock Evo sensor with working RPM connection, I calibrated with free rev, or under various levels of boost and I could not desensitize it enough to stop it lighting up at high revs when there was no knock (as confirmed by det cans).

I've tried to sell it, but after reading a few things I wondered if I should try a Bosch knock sensor.

Comments? I was all for going back to a knocklink with Bosch sensor as it is the devil I know from the Subarus.

John:

The stock sensor is basically an improved copy of the Bosch. They internally ground one side of the sensor through the bushing, so you only need one wire (shielded) back to the ECU.

oops. I saw Evo, but thought Subie. Got a pic of the sensor?

Hi John, no pic of the sensor, but I tapped into the only knock signal wire at the ECU, so it must ground elsewhere. It was a shielded cable with the shield unterminated under tape as it came from the factory.

still don't see a verifiable pic of a corresponding location to mount a bosch knock sensor that comes with the tuner pro for the wrx?

Any help guys???

Hello,

My knocklite arrived yesterday and I'm getting ready to install it in my 2002 WRX. I don't have a separate knock sensor (I'll probably add one later) so I just want to wire it using the stock sensor for now. In one of his original post Jarrad mentioned that he did all his wiring for his LGT at the ECU. I assume he meant he got the power and ground taps there as well.

I've studied the ECU wiring diagram for the 02' WRX located on North Ursalia's web site (Viewable here) (http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wrxpin.html).

My plan is to run all the wires to the ECU and tap the following wires for their respective function:

ECU Connector - Pin# - Content
B135 - (B)9 - Supplies 5V power to several sensors
B135 - (B)4 - Knock sensor signal
B136 - (C)9 - Engine speed (RPM)
B135 - (B)19 - Ground (Sensor)

I just want to confirm with you guys that have installed the knocklight before that what I plan to do will not interfere with any of the other ECU or sensor functions, sensitivity, or accuracy.

As far as grounds go would it be better to use a chassis grounding point or tap one of the ground at the ECU?

Any suggestions, comments, or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

Thanks.

I finally installed mine last night with the shielded knock wire. Maybe it was my choice of grounding point for the shield (one of the bolts for the kick plate) but the ecu threw a CEL and the knock lite started going nuts at idle. I checked my RPM and knock wire to make sure I hasn't cut them since I ended up using wire taps. Everything checked out okay. I then removed the shield wire from the ground and plugged the ECU back in. Fired the car up and everything was fine. I had to back down the sensitivity to 2. So after going through the trouble to replace the ground wire with a nice shielded wire... I ended up not connecting the shield to a ground afterall.




I ended up having mine installed as recieved. So far, I have been using datalogs and the light to determine where to set my sensitivity. So far I am all the way up to 7 of 10 (1 being most sensitive) as I have been getting false readings. The light was showing signs of det on more sensitive settings when in reality quite the opposite was happening (ECU advancing timing during WOT). I would imagine that a shielded wire would be much more accurate. I am tempted to run very slightly lower on my octane (91 instead of 92...I believe that is a 10 point drop, correct?) in order to induce some det during a log and compare with the knocklite.

It would be great if the KnockLite directions were available on TurboXSs website...
^^^^^ 2 months later... :(

Whats wrong with the directions that come with the knocklite?

bump for more reviews

I've had mine for a while now and I really like it. Apparently, I get occasional, light, unaudible knock if I don't use a bit of race gas...never would've known without the light. It's very likely a lot less than a stock car gets, and it could be a misreading, but I tend to play on the safe side. It's a good way to tell how much race gas I have to put in.

Since getting tuned, I've added a carbon intake tube (replaced plastic accordian) and a ported TB. It's nice using the KL in conjunction with my AFR and EGT guages as it let me know that I did not need to retune for the mods. The ported TB leaned me out about .1 on the AFR in some instances, which means I am around 10.5-11.2 @ WOT (depending on gear/load/etc) instead of the 10.5-11.1 I used to get. Not really much, but good to know. Had I been tuned at the ragged edge, and not had the guages, it may have been enough to cause damage. Definitely a good mod...plus I use the shift light as a secondary. Stock one is around 6k, KL is @ 7k.

Knowing what I know, if I were a WRX owner, I'd pay the 100 bucks just for the shift light feature.

Whats wrong with the directions that come with the knocklite?

Main problem is that they are generic. So when it says 'white wire goes to X' you have to figure out where X is on your ECU.

Whats wrong with the directions that come with the knocklite?

Main problem is that they are generic. So when it says 'white wire goes to X' you have to figure out where X is on your ECU. I paid a shop to do it and they even had a lot of trouble figuring out where what wire went where.

Looking at picking on of these up and it seems that the shielded wire is the way to go? anyone have anymore info/write up for an 04 wrx?

thanks

I'm not sure that you do want to go with a shielded wire. I think someone in this thread used a shielded wire and had some probs with it.

bump anyone have any more info?

I'll be picking one up soon, and will be planning on using shielded wire.

I'm not exactly clear yet of how the wiring would run, but if it will be grouped with the bulkhead harness or passing by any cluster of active wires, it is very important to use shielded wire to avoid false or inconsistant (or even non-existant) signal results.

If shielded wires causing an issue with the performance of any sensor, the additional wiring may have been improperly spliced of the shielding portion relative to the signal wire. This will in short (no pun intended), cause problems regardless because of interferance and/or shorting depending on respective circuit.

-paK +1

cool you will have to post up in here and let me know how the install goes. Take some pics if you can of how you routed the wires.

thanks

Knock

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p45/Bucket8577/Wiring/Knocka.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p45/Bucket8577/Wiring/Knockb.jpg

So, Pin 4 of B135 for knock signal.
And Pin 22 is the shielding ground point.

Sorry about the hacked images. My program won't copy a full page to clipboard from a .pdf.

This is the same info as on North Ursalia's Web page (http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wrxpin.html)

Ign Coil signal

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p45/Bucket8577/Wiring/IGNa.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p45/Bucket8577/Wiring/Ignb.jpg

Pick one of pins 21-24 of B136.

Also same info as North Ursalia's page.

Now for the installation into my Legacy.

Installation is very easy, there are only 4 wired to hook up: power, ground, tach, and knock signal. We just tapped the signals at the stock ECU to keep wire routing to a minimum. I will put up the pinout for anyone who wants to install this as soon as I have a chance to make it all pretty.



I read through all seven pages but didn't see an answer to this question...

How did you hook this up PDX? Did you simply use the wires that came on the knocklite or did you add a shielded wire?


thanks
byron

We used the wires that came on the knock light. We have never added sheilded wires to any of the knock light installations we have done.

thanks, that's great to hear.

Same here. I used the wires that came with the knocklite and tapped at the ECU.

t

Can someone confirm for me that the knocklite should cycle through the lites at startup? It doesn't seem to be working. I have it set on maximum sensitivity and never see any lights. Tapping on the block does nothing either. I hooked it up to a constant power and a couple of times it would cycle through the lights but only when I shut off the key.

If I set all 3 rpm points at idle I should surely see a amber occasionally correct?

ps this is on a nissan armada and the rpm signal is connected to the #1 coil wire

According to the directions that came with mine.

"When the KnockLite is powered up and receives an RPM signal, the LED's will cycle through Red, Amber and Green."

Can someone confirm for me that the knocklite should cycle through the lites at startup? It doesn't seem to be working. I have it set on maximum sensitivity and never see any lights. Tapping on the block does nothing either. I hooked it up to a constant power and a couple of times it would cycle through the lights but only when I shut off the key.

If I set all 3 rpm points at idle I should surely see a amber occasionally correct?

ps this is on a nissan armada and the rpm signal is connected to the #1 coil wire

Something is wrong with the wiring or the unit (likely wiring). It should cycle through all 3 lights @ startup. Mine blinks red, yellow, then green when I start the motor.

My instructions don't say anything about it cycling through the lights. Thank you for confirming! I found out last night that the rpm signal wire that someone told me was the one to use is probably the wrong one. So you are probably correct the wiring is of issue. I finally found a diagram. The wire I hooked to was the white/blue, same one they used on the dyno. From the information I found last night I should be using the yellow/red wire. The link below is the diagram....i'm a newbe so I can't attach the image....
www .clubtitan.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20648&d=1169522078

Thank you again for the help! very appreciated.

At the J&S end of the cable, we connect the black and the drain wires to the system ground pin, then we connect the white wire to the knock input pin on the unit.

At the other end of the cable, we cut off the black and the shield wires, as they are not used. The white wire is then spliced into the knock signal wire, near the ECU.

Since your explanation is the easiest to understand for a simpleton like myself I'm going to ask you for some clarification. I'm not sure what a J&S unit is but I'm guessing I can just insert the word Knocklight where you use that term.

Here's what I'm getting from your post. I take the ground wire from the Knocklight and the drain wire from the shielded cable to a grounding point. The Knocklight signal wire is spliced to the white wire in the shielded cable which is connected to the ECU @ the other end. So only 1 of the 2 wires and the drain is used in the shielded cable. Am I understanding everything or am I an idiot that has a problem with reading comprehension? :)

Make sure that you don't cut into the factory shield, as this will short out the knock signal.

I'm guessing this comment was meant to stop people from tapping the ECU's shielded ground wire in the knock sensor circuit and is not referring to the signal wire.

I'm very confident with engine and suspension mods but not so much when it comes to wiring so sorry if these are stupid questions.

BTW, feedback from anyone is welcome.

Thanks

Hello,

My knocklite arrived yesterday and I'm getting ready to install it in my 2002 WRX. I don't have a separate knock sensor (I'll probably add one later) so I just want to wire it using the stock sensor for now. In one of his original post Jarrad mentioned that he did all his wiring for his LGT at the ECU. I assume he meant he got the power and ground taps there as well.

I've studied the ECU wiring diagram for the 02' WRX located on North Ursalia's web site (Viewable here) (http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wrxpin.html).

My plan is to run all the wires to the ECU and tap the following wires for their respective function:

ECU Connector - Pin# - Content
B135 - (B)9 - Supplies 5V power to several sensors
B135 - (B)4 - Knock sensor signal
B136 - (C)9 - Engine speed (RPM)
B135 - (B)19 - Ground (Sensor)

I just want to confirm with you guys that have installed the knocklight before that what I plan to do will not interfere with any of the other ECU or sensor functions, sensitivity, or accuracy.

As far as grounds go would it be better to use a chassis grounding point or tap one of the ground at the ECU?

Any suggestions, comments, or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

I'm installing today and thought I would share my thoughts. I've talked with Jarrad at PDX and he tells me that they calibrate the RPMs by free revving the vehicle at idle. For safety reasons. Also, PDX typically uses a sensitivity of 7. Knowing that experienced tuners set it at that, some of the people on here who use 2 must be getting a lot of false signals.

As for the wiring, a ground is a ground so that should be fine. But this part I don't agree with.

B135 - (B)9 - Supplies 5V power to several sensors

In the Knocklite instruction manual it says 12+ IGN power supply. I don't think this 5V supply is sufficient. That is why I intend to use the A5 connection, 10-13V.

I'm installing today and thought I would share my thoughts. I've talked with Jarrad at PDX and he tells me that they calibrate the RPMs by free revving the vehicle at idle. For safety reasons. Also, PDX typically uses a sensitivity of 7. Knowing that experienced tuners set it at that, some of the people on here who use 2 must be getting a lot of false signals.



I've got mine set at 4 or 5 and it is quite accurate.

I had mine set at 1 as the default when I first installed it, imagine my panic when it was blinding red the moment I started up my new engine... :lol:

I have mine set at 1 and I never see knock @ WOT. Every once and awhile I do get what I think are false readings when cruising @ around 3K. After an ECU reset it doesn't do it as much and gradually gets worse over time which makes me think it could be knock. I need to get a laptop to verify whats actually going on.

Will any Bosch Knock sensor for 02-04 WRX be a direct plug into the turboxs knocklite??
I hooked mine up to the stock knock sensor but the thing never flashes. It flashes on start up and for the shift light, but I have tried every sensitivity settings on the knocklite and it never flashes anything.
When I did hook it up I did get the CEL "Knock sensor low input." I reset the ECU and that went away.

I wonder if the knock sensor low input means your knocklite is pulling to much power... If it goes through the colors at startup, and the shiftlight works, I'd imagine you just are not getting any knock...that's a good thing :)

If you really have an urge to see the light, put some 87 in there and step on it...it could end up being a real expensive light test though.

^hahaha

So tell me this, if I pick one up, should I expect to get light knock every once in a while? If I got one I could totally see myself watching the light blink once, and freaking out, having it towed into the shop and checked out.

I wonder if the knock sensor low input means your knocklite is pulling to much power... If it goes through the colors at startup, and the shiftlight works, I'd imagine you just are not getting any knock...that's a good thing :)

If you really have an urge to see the light, put some 87 in there and step on it...it could end up being a real expensive light test though.


haha, i dont want to see the lights that bad. Does this mean my XPT reflash is just that perfect for my car? I thought I read somewhere that if u put on the most sensitive setting it will flash like its knocking.
I guess I could load a map that I know has some slight knocking if I really wanted to test it out also.

^hahaha

So tell me this, if I pick one up, should I expect to get light knock every once in a while? If I got one I could totally see myself watching the light blink once, and freaking out, having it towed into the shop and checked out.

I get imperceptable (other than the light) knock every once and a while, and I think "what the heck?!?!" everytime. I know another guy with one and he does too.

Could it be that most get light knock every once and a while and it's not that big of a deal? Yes. Could it mean both he and I (and prolly others) need to adjust our tunes cause we are slowly deteriorating our motors? Yes.

I think because of the constant-learning nature of the ecu, it makes sense to expect light knock every once in a blue moon.

I don't know if you guys have seen this, but this site has wiring diagrams for every subaru made since '05 (go to the diagnostics section for your car):
techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp

I found that to be very handy in hooking up my knock light. Thanks!

good find!

Thinking about installing one on my '03, I really like that idea of putting it in the vent for primary use as a shift light... but how bright is it?, I want to make sure I can see it out the corner of my eye, anyone else mounted it somewhere other than above the wheel?