My service manual appears to indicate that I do not have to pull the overhead manifold in order remove the heads.

I am a novice at this (first Timer), but this does not seem correct to me. I am assuming that I am either reading the manual incorrectly or that it was an oversight on the author.

Can one of you experts confirm that the O/H Manifold must be removed in order to remove the heads

Yep,
You must remove the intake manifold first. Be sure to unplug the cam sensor, crank sensor, oil and coolant sensors, along with the power steering. Also need to remove the breather lines, and the coolant lines that run through the throttle body. Then you can unbolt the 8 bolts holding it to the heads and take it off...

Yep,
You must remove the intake manifold first. Be sure to unplug the cam sensor, crank sensor, oil and coolant sensors, along with the power steering. Also need to remove the breather lines, and the coolant lines that run through the throttle body. Then you can unbolt the 8 bolts holding it to the heads and take it off...
Looks like I will also have to remove the fuel injectors

Good thing I have an FSM that gives step by step on this.

Nope. You do not need to remove the fuel injectors. That list of components that needs to be unplugged are things that are in the block. The engine wiring harness stays with the manifold when you remove it. The injectors are mounting in the manifold, and can stay right where they are. You don't even need to unplug them. But you do need to unplug the spark plugs...

Nope. You do not need to remove the fuel injectors. That list of components that needs to be unplugged are things that are in the block. The engine wiring harness stays with the manifold when you remove it. The injectors are mounting in the manifold, and can stay right where they are. You don't even need to unplug them. But you do need to unplug the spark plugs...

AWESOME !!!

FSM is stating that I need to remove the starter prior to separation of engine and transmission.

Does this sound correct ? I have not read mention of that in any previous posts on engine removal

OK....Going to be breaking my engine down in 48 hours. I will be pulling both heads. I got the garage cleaned and organized this past Saturday. Also have my new cherry picker and stand ready to go. I plan on taking pictures and posting questions with issues as they come up.

But have a few questions on the front end I'm hoping for some help/direction on:

(1) What is the full breakdown of gaskets that I will need ?

I plan on replacing both head gaskets, overhead manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and throttle body gasket. (I already have new valve cover gaskets)

- What am I missing ?
-Are there any seals that I will need to replace (Cam seals less than 7 months old)
- should I simply buy a Full Gasket Set ?
- Should I go OEM on the gaskets or is 3rd party the way to go...and if so what brand is recommended ?

(2) Should I go ahead an plan on taking the heads into a shop for inspection and milling ? There is a local shop here in Austin (with a good reputation) that charges $ 30 - $ 47.50 per head.

(3) How do I inspect for a cracked block ? Is this something I can do or do I need to take the block into a shop ?

bump for an update and answers to those questions

we build these every day so what engine do you have

OK....Going to be breaking my engine down in 48 hours. I will be pulling both heads. I got the garage cleaned and organized this past Saturday. Also have my new cherry picker and stand ready to go. I plan on taking pictures and posting questions with issues as they come up.

But have a few questions on the front end I'm hoping for some help/direction on:

(1) What is the full breakdown of gaskets that I will need ?

I plan on replacing both head gaskets, overhead manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and throttle body gasket. (I already have new valve cover gaskets)

- What am I missing ?
-Are there any seals that I will need to replace (Cam seals less than 7 months old)
- should I simply buy a Full Gasket Set ?
- Should I go OEM on the gaskets or is 3rd party the way to go...and if so what brand is recommended ?

(2) Should I go ahead an plan on taking the heads into a shop for inspection and milling ? There is a local shop here in Austin (with a good reputation) that charges $ 30 - $ 47.50 per head.

(3) How do I inspect for a cracked block ? Is this something I can do or do I need to take the block into a shop ?

Anybody got an answer for these questions? I'll be doing the head gaskets in a few weeks and I'm trying to nail down what else I should do while I have the engine out. Thanks.

Still looking for an answer.

I would recommend sending the heads off to the shop just to be safe. Make sure theres no warping. As far as seals go replace all of them while it's out and it wouldn't hurt to do the waterpump because they usually go out around 130k miles. Make sure the you take the black plastic piece off the block and beadit up with silicone subarus are notorious for leaking there because of the heat. You'll have to use an impact driver to get it off unless the bolts are already loose. I'm sure your going to do the timing belt and other than that it should be it. It's an easy job done and seen several of them. Listen to what short block has to say I work for him and he is the smartest man on subarus there is in my opinion. ANy questions ask him or me. Good luck.

First thing you should do is disconnect the battery negative. Yes you will need to remove the starter. Two bolts that hold the tranny on are shared by the starter.


Use oem gaskets. Your gasket list is complete except for exhaust manifold gaskets. The oem n/a 2.5 ones get cruddy quick. Depending on how many miles you've got on the car and how rusty the header studs are you might want to replace them and the nuts for them too. The studs will probably pull out and/or look like crap. If you have no oil leaks then you don't really need to change any other seals but I'd get a new rear main seal just in case. Depending on what sort of engine stand you got you may need to remove the clutch pressure plate to get the motor to fit on the stand. A clutch alignment tool is needed and note which way the clutch disc is installed.

Definately have the heads checked and/or milled.

Also, don't forget that this process requires that the timing belt be removed so be sure that you have all the info you need for that before you begin. A paint pen would help a lot here to mark the belt BEFORE you remove it. Align the timing marks and mark the belt at the marks and be sure to differentiate which way the belt needs to be reinstalled.

Should you need to disassemble the heads for machining then you are going to need some other tools as well. A valve spring compressor as well as a special tool for removing the torx plus bolts that hold the cam girdles on.


Organization and patience is the key here with the entire process. Don't worry about how much time it takes but if your one of those people that has a time limit goal then I'd shoot for 16-18 hours or labor.

Need anything else don't be afraid to ask or pm me.

Btw, is it sohc or dohc? And year? the seperator plates on the 99-01 sohc blocks are metal.

2002 SOHC EJ25.

Anyone know what the head length is and if the are symetrical or not? The guy from the machine shop asked me. Also, should I have a valve job done while it's at the shop? Thanks.

I am in the same boat, but with a 2001 2.5RS. Any further info come up on this or newer info?

Is the camshaft seal a preformed gasket, or is it liquid gasket?

Also, what goes into adjusting the valve clearances?

Going back to the original post, you do DO NOT have to remove the intake manifold, you just have to take out the bolts on each side. You can leave it uptop while you work.


Is the camshaft seal a preformed gasket, or is it liquid gasket?

Also, what goes into adjusting the valve clearances?


The Cam seal is a Round Seal you can get from the dealership, should be in stock. The Cam Plate uses a liquid gasket to seal around it.

For your lash you will need an .008" feeler gage for the intake and a .010" for the exhaust, preferably angle gages. A Flat head screw driver and a 12mm wrench. That should be it.

2002 SOHC EJ25.

Anyone know what the head length is and if the are symetrical or not? The guy from the machine shop asked me. Also, should I have a valve job done while it's at the shop? Thanks.

The heads are symetrical, With the cams being the differ for the right and left.

Should you need to disassemble the heads for machining then you are going to need some other tools as well. A valve spring compressor as well as a special tool for removing the torx plus bolts that hold the cam girdles on.

Where does one purchase a valve spring compressor? Is it a generic tool, or is it OEM-specific?

For a sohc head you can use one off the shelf.

Mine is a KD tools part number 2078. IT's called a valve spring compressor/universal overhead.

Price: @25$

Found:
Napa,carquest,checker,advanced auto,sears.

Call aroung for people that carry the KD tool line.

Good luck

Tim, you rock. PM me for a beer if you're ever in Boston. I owe you one.

I think this is the one I am looking for:

http://www.kd-tools.com/catalog/images/2078.jpg

Universal Overhead Valve Spring (compressorhttp://www.kd-tools.com/2078.htm) Compressor

Why removing the engine for headgaskt replacement? Does the 02 have less room? I work in a shop so everything close and handy, but we had both heads on the bench in less than 2 hrs. Unless 02 has less room, I cant see any reason to remove the engine.

Why removing the engine for headgaskt replacement? Does the 02 have less room? I work in a shop so everything close and handy, but we had both heads on the bench in less than 2 hrs. Unless 02 has less room, I cant see any reason to remove the engine.

1. Who's we?
B. that's very quick.
III. let us know how it goes on the re-install.

We as in I work at a shop, we is tech and me handing him ****. It was done about 6 weeks ago went back together great, drivers side head alittle tight but all went pretty easy. I felt kinda stupid bidding out 10 hrs for remove heads, disassemble heads, install delta cams, adjust valves and reassemble. Total time not including waiting for machine shop was about 6 hrs. Maybe my car has less options? Awsome tech but thinks parts are **** if not OE, said I ruined engine putting in those cams.

Just trying to help...

Procedural question: is it easier to remove the crankshaft pulley with the engine in or out?

Bump for an answer.

in, when you have the tranny available to help stop the rotation or, the starter if you use the bump start to get it off

I have a 91 2.2 so don't know if yours is similar; but.... you have to hold the crank obviously, and in mine it was easier with the engine in. Dropped a steel bar into the differential inspection hole on top, and the crank was immobilized. Of course, if you pull the engine first, there is more access, so I'd say it's mechanics choice.