I am picking up the motor this weekend. I trust the seller but I just want to make 100% sure on the condition of the motor. What are common results for a leakdown test for the EJ25 motor?

What exactly do I need to perform a leakdown test on site when picking up the motor, and how do I go about it?

I have a compressor Im bringing for a compressed air source, so what else do I need to buy and do? what are the steps? and what are ideal results so I can make absolutely sure Im not swapping my current paperweight for another one lol.

You will need a leak down tester as well to do it right
First remove the spark plugs. Turn the engine to TDC on #1. Calibrate your tester per your testers instructions. Lock your engine so it will not turn and connect hose to spark plug hole, Connect pressure gauge to the compressor hose connection. Read your leakage.
If your just looking for coolant/head gasket leaks you don't need a guage and may connect compressor directly to cylinder (you want about 90 lbs) If the engine is in the car remove the radiator cap. If coolant sprays out when you turn up the pressure you have a head gasket problem. If your engine is out of the car stick your ear by the hose outlet. Do the same test on all 4 cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston before testing each cylinder. This test is can also good for diagnosing valve problems.
All engines will have some leakage past the rings. I have no idea what it is normal for this engine. This is a very good test to do on this particular engine as it has a history of head gasket problems. On head gaskets your looking for more of a pass fail. Why not practice on the engine in the car that you have first. If you need a connector to the engine drill out a old spark plug center tap it for a pipe thread and go by the appropriate bits at the parts store
Good luck John







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

wow I never thought of the spark plug drilling thing!

I guess Im gonna go to napa to see how much a leakdown kit is going to run me for the guage and whatnot. I appreciate the help that was mighty thorough. How do I go about locking the engine? Put a socket on the timing gear and hold it with a breaker bar?

Oh! and how long do I leave the pressurized air in the cyl and take guage readings for? a few seconds? 10 seconds? 30 seconds?

IIRC, if the engine is out, there is a spot at the back of the engine that you can put a pin in, locking the flywheel in place. What year swap you doing?

IIRC its 2001 ill check my email and get back to ya on that one.

*edit* its a 1999

Same year as my swap!
I just had it dyno'd on Saturday. All I've done for mods are Delta Cam regrinds. It has the 2.5 exhaust, and that's it....

158.3 A.W.T
150.0 A.W.H.P

I just checked in my 2001 FSM and it appears that the "recommended" method is to use a service tool blah blah blah. It's simply a flat piece of steel with 2 holes in it. A bolt goes into the flywheel, and another goes into the transmission mounting hole.
However, if the engine is still in the car, you might be able to get away with just putting it in reverse or 1st gear. That usually works, unless your trying to change the crank pulley. :)
How many miles? AT or MT? AWD?

Here it is, picked up, ready to be prepped and dropped in!

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/IMG_0066.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/IMG_0065.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/IMG_0064.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/IMG_0061.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/IMG_0062.jpg

This being the thread I am going to document the swap into, can a mod please move it to the conversion forum? Or can someone report this post to a mod, As I am the creator of the post I cant report it. Thanks!

So, where are you located?
just curious how you were going to go about the swap. ie; wiring, spark plug wires, any EM...
How many miles on the motor? If it's past 60k, you might want to consider doing a timing belt job. It's relatively quick and easy, well worth the $75 for the belt.
Good luck!

Im currently reading all my options. Im stuck with wiring/spark on whether or not I want to use the 2.5 coilpack and do the 4 wire mod to make it work or whether I want to use the stock coilpack and make a custom bracket with custom plug wires. Both have been done and Im going to decide the cheapest most reliable route in a few days after some more research. EM is going to be run on the 1.8 ECU and sensors for now until I save up enough money and balls to throw in Emanage. Id like the motor in and running with all bugs fixed before I dive into re-wiring it.
Its a 2001 ej25 with 59k on it. The timing belt looks great but as you said I may just go ahead and do the belt while its outta the car. Im currently awaiting getting the pdf files to find out EXACTLY how Im going to go about all this step by step. Im also going to replace the main seal if I do the belt since that was what went bad on my old motor and it caused all sorts of a mess on highway drives. Im gonna prep the motor, clean it up and do some preventative maintenance to it before dropping it in. Im glad keith included the subframe since I needed new mounts anyway. These are in good shape.

Im still in the process of compiling every SOHC ej25 swap info from every forum I can before I make detailed decision of exactly whats going to be done to get this bad boy running. As of now if it is bolted in and sitting in the car Ill be happy lol.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/suby.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/suby2.jpg

Oh and the subject ^^


I got WRX brakes with the motor too so those are going on as soon as the car is up and running and Ive got a set of RS or WRX wheels.

Nice color. Definitely keep us updated. I'm curious to see how it goes. I hope everything works out.

Those are great numbers! you could spank a mustang gt and get 28 mpg :devil:


Same year as my swap!
I just had it dyno'd on Saturday. All I've done for mods are Delta Cam regrinds. It has the 2.5 exhaust, and that's it....

158.3 A.W.T
150.0 A.W.H.P

I just checked in my 2001 FSM and it appears that the "recommended" method is to use a service tool blah blah blah. It's simply a flat piece of steel with 2 holes in it. A bolt goes into the flywheel, and another goes into the transmission mounting hole.
However, if the engine is still in the car, you might be able to get away with just putting it in reverse or 1st gear. That usually works, unless your trying to change the crank pulley. :)
How many miles? AT or MT? AWD?

I already have! :D

But, I only get 27mpg...:( ;)

:banana: Im currently reading all my options. Im stuck with wiring/spark on whether or not I want to use the 2.5 coilpack and do the 4 wire mod to make it work or whether I want to use the stock coilpack and make a custom bracket with custom plug wires.... .
EM is going to be run on the 1.8 ECU and sensors for now until I save up enough money and balls to throw in Emanage....
The timing belt looks great but as you said I may just go ahead and do the belt while its outta the car.....
Im currently awaiting getting the pdf files to find out EXACTLY how Im going to go about all this step by step. Im also going to replace the main seal if I do the belt since that was what went bad on my old motor and it caused all sorts of a mess on highway drives. Im gonna prep the motor, clean it up and do some preventative maintenance to it before dropping it in. Im glad keith included the subframe since I needed new mounts anyway. These are in good shape.

Im still in the process of compiling every SOHC ej25 swap info from every forum I can before I make detailed decision of exactly whats going to be done to get this bad boy running. As of now if it is bolted in and sitting in the car Ill be happy lol.

Well, if I may offer my 2 cents...
My car is a '93 sedan, AWD, 5mt. I swapped in a 2001 2.5 with 45k on it.
It runs really well, but it could really use an Emanage. I have to run 91+ octane, or I get some serious pinging (detonation). As it is now, I still get very light det when I'm under load over 5000 rpm. Otherwise, it runs wicked good!
For the plug wires: The cheapest is to re-wire your coil pack harness to accomodate the 2.5 coil. That is the route I should have gone, but I was really not interested in re-wiring the harness. As it was, the only thing I re-wired was the fuel injectors. :)
If you decide to get custom wires, give Kingsbourne (IIRC) a call. For about $45 shipped, I got a set. Beware though: They have done several wire sets for this swap, and I think it has created a small prolem: It was once posted that the wiring set for this swap was a tad too short. Well, when I ordered my set, I asked them to be a half an inch longer, figuring that I would be just right. Well, they are about 2-3" too long. It's not really a big deal, it just looks like the engine bay isn't that well put together. Not a reall biggie

As for the timing belt..With that amount of miles, unless it's cracked or something, I wouldn't change it. It's gonna be good for another 20k, and you can use the $75 elsewhere. But, by all means, take it off, change the seals, and put it back on.
Is your car an auto or manual? What about the 2.5? Only reason is because of the "crank sensor trigger ring". Again, some have said that if the donor came out of a standard, and the donee was a standard, they would need to have the crank sensor rings changed. THIS IS FALSE!...Well, at least when it came to a 2001 2.5 into a '93 1.8. :)
If you need any on-line help, don't hesitate to PM me. I'll normally get back to you really quick. This goes for anyone contemplating this sort of swap. ;)

As for vacuum hoses and what not, except for the EGR and one other sensor, EVERYTHING is hooked up. The 2 sensors, I just capped off.
When you swap the 1.8 harness over to the 2.5 engine, it would be really easy if you just take off the 2.5's intake. And while you are at it, you can change the intake manifold gaskets. mine were really brittle.
Good luck! It's good to see another 2.5 swap in the works.

As for the FSM's You could try:
http://www.ken-gilbert.com/wrx/impreza_manuals.htm
While they are for a 2002, All the info is the same, as I do have an actual real live hardcopy of a 2001 2.5 engine service manual.
One more thing to note: The FSM has an error, in regards to the timing belt. It states that there should be 40.5 teeth to one sprocket, and 44 to the other. It actually is 44 and 47. I went to the dealer and they lent me a new belt. I counted the teeth to the white witness lines, and that is what I got

Guys, this is EXACTLY the stuff I want this thread loaded with. Ive had to search quite a bit through jumbles of info including only specific problems and not a walkthrough of the entire swap with documented pictures etc. Im planning on doing it. And as far as the motor, both the 2.5 donor car and the 1.8 donee are manual. With the 2001 will I have to swap the crank ring thing? Thats the only thing I wasnt too excited about lol.

And as far as 91 Octane with the 1.8 harness/ecu and detonation. Is there not a way to adjust timing on these cars and back it off a bit?

hmms. various people have better luck with various ecu's. a 01 sohc 25 into a 95 in my frineds was just great on poop gas. my 98 dohc 25 on my 93 ecu was really good on poop also.

As for the ring thing, you are probably are all set. You want the one with something like 6 fingers on it. Versus the auto that has a lot more on it. If you are going to be doing the main seals, I would take a minute and pop the timing cover off the 1.8 just to make sure. It only takes a few minutes, and then you can save the timing job until you have the motor out. That way you don't end up doing it twice. :)
As for the ECU...There were a few peole a while back that got there ECU hacked, but the guys that actually did the work are no longer in the country. :(
In all honesty, you are going to be fine. Just run 91 octane. It isn't really all that much more expensive than 87; it's going to cost you $3 more to fill up, on average.
I'd just save up for an Emanage, which is what I am in the process of doing, after I get a tranny. :)

As for the pinging at high RPM's, it was only noticeable on the dyno. It is very very light. And that comes from having timing advanced so far. So, you could get an A'Pexi timing controller, but there is still the problem of running lean at the 2k-3500 rpm range. Hence, the E-Manage

Also I think Ill be a bit more safe now that summer is essentially over. No more 100-110 degree ambient air temps to make detonation worse :)

Im gonna search for documentation on the people who were able to modify the 1.8 ECU Id like to be able to do that ideally. Im wondering what a wideband readout of a stock 1.8 motor looks like, a stock 2.5 motor, and then a stock 2.5motor on the 1.8 harness. Id hate to have it run well but actually be a bit lean or a bit rich and foul things up later on down the road. .7L is quite a bit of a difference as far as displacement of motors go and running a different ecu than what was designed for the motor.
Im confident it will be fine and will be doing the swap this way but it just seems odd that it supposedly runs so well seeing as how the maps are for a motor .7L (around 25% smaller)

And just so you guys don't think I'm b.s.'ing:

http://we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTA0Njg3OTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx

There is your wideband on a '93 2.5! ^^^^

Im trying to decide what clutch to use, the one in the 2.5 or the one on my L..... I have no idea how new either is and I guess Ill just pull them off and pick the better of the 2 to use. Im not trying to spend alot on this swap. So a new clutch before it goes in is kinda outta the question.

The accessory belt is brand new on my old motor, I can use that belt on the 2.5 since the 2.5 is missing it right?

screw the emanage. bleh, i had bad experiances on mine.....

hope its better for you. perhaps emanage ultimate?

i just put my old 01 ej251 in my 95L about a month and a half ago. Runs great. Couple quick things to help you on your way..

1. I used the RS intake manifold. You can combine both coolant temp sensors on the 1.8 into 1 convient plug off of the RS harness to make the 1.8 harness plug right up.

2. Use the 1.8 throttle body. Make your own throttle body gasket using a sheet of gasket material, and trace out the 2.5 throttle body gasket, but leave out the large port towards the top.. You DO NOT need that.

3. As for the coil, you can get custom plug wires made, as stated earlier, but i opted to just wire it up to utilize the RS coil.. In my opinion, it was easy, and obviously cheaper.

4. At least for the 01 ej251, the crank timing gear IS the 6 tooth (which you need) for a manual trans engine. I've read other places that say the auto is the one with the 6 tooth, i haven't checked an auto one, because they are few and far between, but if it came from a manual tranny car, its a 6 tooth.

5. With the engine running on the 1.8 ecu, i haven't had any problems with detonation or pinging, and i've been using the finest quality 87 octane! woo! And i'm getting between 27-30 mpg, mostly city driving. Its an easy swap, and makes the car pretty quick. I was suprised. :banana:

oh yeah, i decided to reuse the ****ty clutch from the 1.8, to keep costs down at the time. It was in pretty rough shape, but whatever, it holds it well enough to flog some. Just can't really beat on it, it'll start slipping on me..

Also, you don't need to mess around with swapping power steering pumps. When you take out the 1.8, swap over the pump bracket. It will bolt right onto the 2.5, that way you won't have to mess with the steering lines. And then, you can take the 2.5 pump and lines, and sell them on E-bay.:)

i just put my old 01 ej251 in my 95L about a month and a half ago. Runs great. Couple quick things to help you on your way..

1. I used the RS intake manifold. You can combine both coolant temp sensors on the 1.8 into 1 convient plug off of the RS harness to make the 1.8 harness plug right up.



can you elaborate a bit on this?

Secondly, can I use the 2.5 clutch thats on there now?

Thanks!

The 1.8 engine has 2 coolant temp. sensors.. 1 is a 2 wire, the other is a single wire.

The RS uses 1 coolant temp sensor, which is a 3 wire sensor.

If you have the RS engine harness, which i would assume is still on the engine you got. De-pin that connector, and de-pin the 2 connectors on the 1.8 harness. Take the 2 wires from the 2 pin connector, and put them in the top 2 spots in the 3 pin connector.. Then put the remaining single pin from the other sensor into the bottom slot on the rs connector..

And, take LOTS of pictures and notes. Otherwise, you'll be standing there with a vacuum hose in your hand, wondering where the heck it plugs into...or a fuel line.
The wiring is very simple, since no 2 sensors are the same. However, when you disconnect the fuel injector plugs, make sure you label them, since it's pretty easy to get them crossed, especially after cutting and splicing the wires

<<<been there, done it too

just use all EJ18 wiring and elec stuff and get spark plug wires made, or rig the wiring to run the ej25 ones.

man, a DOHC is so much easier to put in

Will the MY99 Subframe drop right into my 94L?

The motor is still attatched and we were planning on just dropping the old motor/subframe and sliding it out then putting the new one in. Hows this sound? All one piece, easier than seperating them?

yes. swap entire subframes is easy. r'r. drop from bottom is hte best

Are theyre bushings that go into the subframe where it bolts to the frame horns or control arms?

It looks like there should be bushings there or that the subframe rests into bushings or something. Anyone got a diagram of a complete subframe so I can see if theres any bushings missing?

And, take LOTS of pictures and notes. Otherwise, you'll be standing there with a vacuum hose in your hand, wondering where the heck it plugs into...or a fuel line.
The wiring is very simple, since no 2 sensors are the same. However, when you disconnect the fuel injector plugs, make sure you label them, since it's pretty easy to get them crossed, especially after cutting and splicing the wires

<<<been there, done it too
Just wanted to say hi to a fellow mainer!! (whereabouts are you? I'm in the ellsworth area)

Hello! I'm in Lisbon until the end of October, and then me move into our new house in Lewiston. :banana:

When I did the swap, I didn't even bother with swapping out the subframe. I didn't see much point, since they are the same thing...It was a bit difficult, since I couldn't get the tranny off (seized on the 10mm pins in the engine). I ended up taking the entire thing out, and I barely had enough travel on my engine hoist.

As time goes by, I'm coming up with more hints and tips to pass on..
IIRC, the plug for the 2.5 alternator is different than the 1.8. The 1.8 alternator fits right in place. Also, it's okay to use the 2.5 clutch. It's actually better, since the 1.8 is most likely going to slip.
Also, I'm pretty sure the reason that I have to run 91 octane and need an E-Manage is because of the cams. They have a much longer lift and duration, and as you can see from the dyno sheet, it's done a pretty good job on my torque curve. :)

Sats the big day!!!

Is there ANY specialty tools I will need to do this swap other than the basic hand/air tools sockets wrenches, etc?

all hand tools will do you. you need a clutch alignment tool, thats about it for the weird tools.

whats that? is that generic or scooby specialty? can I get around its usage? how much is it? where can I get it? blah blah blah lol thanks!

whats that? is that generic or scooby specialty? can I get around its usage? how much is it? where can I get it? blah blah blah lol thanks!

any word on this clutch alignment tool?

You really need it. It is "possible" to do without it, but it involves severa times assembling and disassembling the clutch. You're better off running down to a local Subaru dealer and trying to borrow one of their tools. Or, if you have a junk tranny sitting around, cut off the input spline. That works really well. Hope this helps! Keep us updated.

the clutch is already installed and bolted to the new motor, do i still need the alignment tool if its complete and ready to slide into the input shaft?

Day/Night 1:

I wanted to start the swap at 8 or 9 am yesterday but nothing ever goes as planned eh? The place I had set aside to do the work fell through and the car was dropped off at that place on friday night. The friend helping me who had the truck to get the motor couldnt do it until about 2pm. So I sucked it up and said to myself, better late than never.

After getting the motor, getting the impreza back to my house, and buying an SUV jack and jack stands and getting food it was 6:30pm lol. So we began the process. Heres what we did.

-unhooked everything from the top
-loosened the AC compressor and moved it to the side, even though he was pushing for a non/ac 2.5RS swap to save some weight. I figured, my AC works, lets keep it.
-unbolted the exhaust which broke every stud but one from the old motor, oh well Im not using that motor again. If you plan on re-using your old motor be VERY careful with these studs/nuts, its very easy to break them off.
-unbolted the exhaust hanger that bolts to what looks to be the back side of the tranny, its 2 12 or 14mm nuts.
-pulled the hangers for the exhaust and dropped the entire thing, slid it out from underneath the car. We decided to do this because it was going to be easier than trying to break the bonds on the bolts to separate the exhaust and risk stripping, breaking, or maiming the exhaust lol. It took about 10 min to drop laying on my back with the car on stands, not too bad.
-got every necessary motor mount bolt loose and started on the 4 between the engine/tranny.
-unbolted the radiator, drained antifreeze and removed it for more room.

This is the hard one, the drivers side engine/tranny bolt sits right infront of the axle with too little clearance to put a half inch drive in there we had to use a 3/8'' drive with fine teeth and access it from above, removing the starter and placing a steel pipe on the end of it. Even with the starter removed there wasnt much room to turn it, it was done click by click resetting the ratchet by hand every time. But after about 5 min we got it off. That was the only big snag.

After that it was about 845pm and we decided to clean up and call it a night. I drained the oil out of the old motor and have the car sitting ready to be finished up now as the motor is completely lose and ready to be dropped.


We found removing the sub frame with the motor didnt look as easy as everyone says. It didnt look like thered be enough clearance to clear the PS rack and that we'd have to drop it to pull the sub frame, also would have to drop the control arms too? We opted to keep the sub frame and just slide out the motor.


So, Im going to grab some breakfast and start on it again in about an hour. Hopefully within the first hour we'll have the old motor out and the new one sitting in ready to be hooked up.

the PS steering rack I believe has to be removed. Also, the control arms need to be taken off the subframe too. Otherwise, like you said, you'll have to pull the motor up and out. I mean the subframes are idenitcal, just up to you which will be easier.

Let me know what happens with the motor.

Keith

Update:

The 2.5 motor is sitting in the engine bay all bolted up. Here are some notes from the day.

-If you plan on running the 1.8 accessories, alt, ps, a/c. You need to swap over the 1.8 brackets too.
-my MY 00 motor had the 6 tooth crank sensor which apparently is what plugs directly into the 1.8 ECU
-you cannot remove the motor from the bottom without dropping the sub frame and/or removing the a/c condensor dryer. All we did for the hour we tried was succeeded in getting the studs on the motor stuck on the sub frame and bashing up my dryer. So I had to go out and shell out the 150 for an engine hoist. Once we hooked that up it came right out and the new one went right in.
- When installing the new motor not attatched to the sub frame it makes it easier to slide in if you use an SUV jack to jack up the tranny so the motor mount studs clear the sub frame and the angle created by them clearing is equal to the angle of the jacked up tranny.


other than those things, the motors bolted up, the PS is installed and yes the lines were a bit short, took a min to bend the one and a longer rubber hydrolic hose to fix the lower one. The AC and the brackets are bolted in, the alt is in, now everything just needs to be swapped, sensor-wise from the 1.8 into the 2.5 and its ready to go after we get some antifreeze, swap the TB, and change the oil, etc.

And I don't know if this makes a difference, but remember its a MY99 engine, not a MY00.

Out of curiosity, why did you swap PS stuff? If you take the braket off the 1.8 and put it on the 2.5, you can re-use the 1.8 set-up. That way you don't need to get any lines modified.
When you swap over TB's, don't forget to make a spacer plate that blocks off that extra vacuum hole.
Glad to hear that it's working out for you! I figured that taking it out through the hood would be an easier option. And, FWIW, all those that are contemplating this swap in the future, do yourself a favor. When it comes time, drive out the pins holding the front CV's to the tranny. That way, you can slide the engine/tranny back and forth, take the CV's out, and have easy access to all the bolts holding the engine on.

Out of curiosity, why did you swap PS stuff? If you take the braket off the 1.8 and put it on the 2.5, you can re-use the 1.8 set-up. That way you don't need to get any lines modified.
Actually, thats what I did, the manifold on the 2.5 where the 2 bolt bracket for the PS lines bolt to is moved over about 2 inches toward the pass side. So with the PS line mount bolted to the manifold the lines sit short of where the PS pump rests. Its not all that hard, like i said it can be bent with your hands and the other one fixed with a $2 hydrolic hose thats longer.

When you swap over TB's, don't forget to make a spacer plate that blocks off that extra vacuum hole.
Glad to hear that it's working out for you! I figured that taking it out through the hood would be an easier option. And, FWIW, all those that are contemplating this swap in the future, do yourself a favor. When it comes time, drive out the pins holding the front CV's to the tranny. That way, you can slide the engine/tranny back and forth, take the CV's out, and have easy access to all the bolts holding the engine on.
yea with that drivers side lower stud nut, youd need a VERY low profile 1/2 fine tooth drive thats fairly long to access it, or a smaller 3/8'' 14mm swivle socket to reach it, either way it was a PITA and the starter had to be removed to get clearance. I should have just pulled the axle since its got a torn boot and is going to be replaced this weekend anyways when I get back up there to work on it.


*EDIT* 10/17/05 - After looking at the setup with the PS lines. They in fact dont need to be bent or extended at all. I simply removed the bracket for the 2 PS lines and plug wire holder. Seperated the plug wire holder and put it on the wires. Then I just mounted the lines flush to the intake manifold instead of keeping it 2-3 inches do the side of it. This gave me PERFECT reach and brought it back to spec distances as in the 1.8.

So the myth about the lines needing to be modified can be expelled, you just get around it by not using the stock bracket and mounting them directly to the side of the intake manifold with the stock mounting points for the bracket and the stock line mounts that came on the lines to keep them together. Ill take pics when Im up this weekend. But once I removed the stock bracket it gave me the extra clearance I needed and the lines mated right up to the PS pump.

And I don't know if this makes a difference, but remember its a MY99 engine, not a MY00.


I spoke with the first owner of the car who said:


That motor is actually from a 2000RS, has about 65K miles on it. It definately has new head gaskets and I think I also changed the timing belt. The only thing you should know is that the intake manifold was from a 1999RS so in order to make the 2000 injectors fit, the manifold was drilled out and the fuel rails modified. Just make sure the fuel injectors are in pointed straight because there are no centering stops for the 2000 injectors on the 1999 rail. That motor runs good.


I checked and the injectors do in fact spin and the 99 manifold was drilled/modified to work with it. Probably the reason the engine is so clean since it was previously swapped and worked on. The thing is near spotless.

So here I am with the motor bolted up, accessories installed (1.8 alt installed since the plugs between the 1.8 and 2.5 are different), the coolant lines hooked up, fuel lines hooked up... what needs to be done with the sensors?

I see the coolant temp sensor on the back pass side, that needs to be swapped with the 1.8 right?
The crank angle sensor is the 6 tooth so Im ok on that.
The TB needs to be swapped with the associated lines/tps, i know that
What other sensors/vacum things need to be swapped?

Assuming that you re-wired the injector harness, aside from the coolant temp sensor, everything seems a-o.k.
As far as vacuum is concerned....Hopefully you made a note of where everything was on the 1.8
You will be re-using the 1.8 air intake. That being said, you will need longer breather hoses. (the ones that come out of the valve covers)
As far as the rest goes, I seem to remember plugging only 2 vacuum ports.
Also, IIRC, one of the hoses that goes to the charcoal canister is in a different location on the 2.5....
post pics with your questions, and i might be able to give you a hand if your stuck.

so I pull the 1.8 harness from under the intake manifold, swap the CTS and the injector plugs (Which look like theyll plug right up without splicing to the 2.5 injectors) and everything electrical will plug right in?

The oil pressure switch is the same on the 1.8 and 2.5 right? I know its the same connectors but I can just plug up the 2.5 right?

The breather hoses get routed back into the intake tube post MAF and pre TB right? I didnt make a note of where the vacum connections went although there doesnt seem to be many in all honesty. The brake booster is hooked up so that vacum connections down. Its gonna bea ll the little stuff now.

What do I do with the 2 electrically controlled vacum thingies under the 1.8 manifold with the vacum connections running to them and the wiring harness that plugs into them? The 2.5 motor has nothing like that, its alot cleaner.

oil pressure switch is the same..

the breather hoses will plug into the 1.8 intake tube pre tb..

The other couple plugs that are left over. I ended up just plugging in those vsv's, and securing them underneath the manifold. But they aren't actually doing anything, no lines routed to them.. Just plugged into the harness to trick the computer.

what exactly are they tricking the computer into doing? what is it they sense and control that Im not using for my new 2.5 motor? lol

those vsv's are for the evaporative emmisions system crap. being an obd-I car, it shouldn't throw a code for it. I've gotten no codes so far, its basically telling the computer that yes, this device is working when it wants it too. Its not seeing an open circuit when it goes to turn it on. Is it a cheap way? sure. but i don't really care either. lol. It works, and has no affect on how the car runs.

ok great, and do I leave the ports open to atmospheric pressure or cap off the ports with rubber vac caps? Is there a way to remount them away from the engine to get things a bit more clean, like perhaps under a resevior or battery or something? maybe ill pull that portion of the harness enough to get it to mount under the dash or in the rain tray.

well, since they mount on the engine on the 1.8l, you pretty much stuck with putting it somewhere on the new engine.. i just stuffed mine underneath the intake manifold, and you really can't see them.. And i just left those ports open on those vsv's.

Yeah, what he said^^^

The 2.5RS coil. What do I do with that? I splice the coil wires to the 1.8 coil harness. Which wires get spliced to which? IIRC the 2.5 has one extra wire? I think i read that somewhere. Can I get a step by step on splicing the coil wires together?
Thanks!



*Edit* Heres the solution to the ignitor jumping.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/ignitor.jpg

Sorry, can't help you there. :(
I wussed out and bought a set of custom wires. But, I think that as soon as someone offers up a step by step, I'm going to ditch the 1.8 coil.

The 2.5RS coil. What do I do with that? I splice the coil wires to the 1.8 coil harness. Which wires get spliced to which? IIRC the 2.5 has one extra wire? I think i read that somewhere. Can I get a step by step on splicing the coil wires together?
Thanks!

I still need to find my wiring diagrams for that.. But i did use the RS coil. Its rather easy. Stay tuned

Here we go.. i made a thread for it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11277350#post11277350

Thanks!

Now, annoyingly enough I need the nuts that bolt the DP to the head for the exhaust. I need one stud also. Suby quoted my 9 bucks for the stud and 3 bucks per nut for the DP nuts. BUNK DAT! Can I just go buy some matching thread nuts and a stud from a place selling grade A nuts? Ive done this stuff before and never encountered a problem. And since its only the DP I figure if it doesnt work I can then buy the correct hardware, its not gonna kill me to try it eh?

Just run down to the hardware store. Find out what size thread it is (diameter and pitch), and get what you need.
On the exhaust, do yourself a favor, and use some high temp never seize. It's a safe bet that you'll be into that area again for performance purposes, and it makes it a lot easier.
As far as hardware goes, you will probably have a hard time findind a stud. You could either find a "set screw" with the appropriate thread length, or a bolt with the same length of threads. I think it would be better to use a stud and nut combo then the regular bolt.
You could also put on a little drop of threadlocker, just to make sure that the stud never comes out again. (make sure that the stud is the correct length before threadlocker)
HTH

Thats what I was planning on doing, thanks for re-enforcing my plans :)

Called napa and they have the exhaust manifold gaskets in stock for 2 bucks each. yay! im done getting all my parts needed for this weekend after this. Just need to scoop up a hose clamp kit while Im there and thats it. The stock suby hose clamps blow lol. I prefer the screw head/8mm or whatever they are over the screw only ones that tend to deteriorate over time then have to be cut off :furious:

yeah, some of subaru's clamp designs are lame as hell.. When i did the 2.5 swap, i had to just rip apart practically everyone of them.. Heater hoses, radiator hoses, etc.. All suck.

Good luck with the swappage! :)

alright both harnesses are out with sensors and im modding them as we speak. A quick few questions.

The 3 fuel inlets under the intake manifold in the drivers side. theyre arranged in a triangle pattern from rubber to steel lines.

.O
OO

which hose goes where? 1 is for the charcoal canister I believe, 1 is fuel delivery, 1 is return? In any case where do the 3 hoses go?

Thanks! Im sure Ill be back in a few with plenty more questions.

PS Is there ANY way to use the 2.5 TB? Im quite dissapointed with how puny the 1.8 TB is, it looks like itll be a HUGE bottleneck with regard to the intake.

If your using the 1.8 ecu to run it.. i don't know of a way to run the 2.5 throttle body.. The sensors are way different.

Mine is still pretty strong even with the 1.8 tb on it. Just have to make a gasket for it, which takes all of 10 minutes.

yea thats what im comming to realize, soooo what about this fuel line setup I asked about up top? ;) ANy ideas?

Does the ground wire comming from the battery going towards the starter area just bolt to one of the starter bolts? Where does it go? Ive got a spare ground wire sittin around :(

you could use one of the starter bolts for a ground, or the spot on the bracket that is bolted on with the starter bolts.

cool, Ill do that with the ground. Now problem 2, still unsure and unanswered. Fuel lines.
Connect the dots :)

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/83Rabbit/fuelline.jpg

This is a mistake, the 1.8 lines are in a traiangular pattern, the 2.5 lines are lineir like pictured below.

try this

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5689/fuel5kq.jpg

pm me if you need more help

wait.... is the fuel filter on the drivers side? I thought that was the charcoal canister.... or is the charcoal canister on the pass side near the radiator? :confused: Wheres the fuel filter so I can use that as a refference. Thanks for the diagram Im sure when I sit infront of the car Ill be able to find out what it is your talking about!

the fuel filter is on the drivers side by the shock tower.

ok and how do I tell which of your steel lines are which? They are arranged in a triangular pattern on the car... :confused:

I went to look at my car...I have the same linear arrangement.^^^
My best suggestion would be to find the one line that goes to the fuel rail, and tag it. Next, find the one that sort of goes in the direction of the charcoal canister, and tag that. process of elimination.......

word, ill get the info when im back up in nova. :) Then its time to hook up the vacum system.... OH FUN! lol

NO CLUTCH!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11474980#post11474980
Solved

try this

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/5689/fuel5kq.jpg

pm me if you need more help


This is right, and i think its fixed....


Now, I have more issues.

Theres a vac/fuel steel line comming out facing the radiator on the pass side directly to the side of the PS pump... and another on the opposite side facing up, both on the front of the motor/manifold area. WHERE DO THESE GO?! WHAT HOOKS UP TO THEM?!

Im in the last leg of things here, I need to get these little kinks worked out!

i'm so glad nasioc is back up so i can read page two of this thread. i was stuck on page one ever since it went down !

are you using the 1.8 intake manifold or the 2.5 manifold? It sounds like the 1.8, but i want to make sure..

Plugging the unused 94L airbox EGR fitting.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11539093#post11539093

are you using the 1.8 intake manifold or the 2.5 manifold? It sounds like the 1.8, but i want to make sure..

Im using the 2.5 manifold. I was under the impression the 1.8 will not bolt up... Which is the reason every person who does this swap says an adapter plate is required to have the 1.8TB mate to the 2.5 manifold. Why would manifold difference matter anyways?

The 2.5 throttle body has a rather large port in the manifold for the IAC valve. The 1.8 throttle body doesn't need that.. So in order to make that 1.8 tb work, i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket, or you can use the old one, and a sheet of gasket material. Then just trace the 2.5 gasket onto the sheet, leaving out the large port at the top, and viola! You have a custom gasket that works. No need for 3 different gaskets like i've read about people doing..

"i just purchased a 2.5rs tb gasket"

On my manifold/tb combo with the 2.5 gasket there was still 1-2mm of open IAC port on the manifold. I needed the plate with the 2.5 gasket on the manifold side and the 1.8 gasket on the TB side for it to completely seal against the manifold.

Subscribe, I have a 95L waiting for an engine in my price range.

I just did this same swap over the weekend, and this thread was a huge help. Couple notes:

-TB gasket: I bought a roll of gasket material, cut it out to match the external dimensions of the 2.5 IM with the hole for the 1.8 TB. RTV'd both sides, works great.

-Wiring: pretty much all of it was covered here, but for those who haven't done it, it's very straightforward if you have any idea about wiring. The injector plugs could be de-pinned (no splicing necessary), but the other few (coil, temp sensor, etc.) did require splicing, as the female ends weren't the same between harnesses.

-Use the original 1.8 PS pump, alternator, and AC compressor, with all original brackets. The ONLY different thing I did was for the AC compressor, the bottom "sliding' bracket piece. The 2.5 has a slight curve in one section, and makes tightening that innermost lower bolt easier/possible. Not a big deal, and not worth doing unless you have the thing laying around.

-I have a CEL for the EGR valve. I didn't do a single thing to make it work, so I wasn't surprised. Just FYI. My charcoal canister is also not hooked to anything. (Also just for reference, to check a CEL on an OBDI car, there are two small black disconnected plugs under the dash on the driver's side, kind of between the steering column and center dash area; plug them in with the car off, then turn the key to ON (not running), and the codes will flash :) )

-Not that this is ideal, but the 1.8 exhaust manifolds will bolt right up to the 2.5 block, just for reference.

My only issue now is a weird loud squealing noise, which we think might be related to something with the plate that bolts to the torque converter. Prior to the swap I had no such noises, so I'm a little bit at a loss. EDIT: After a test drive, seems to be RPM related. Is there anything weird with a difference in TC/flywheels between the '00 and '93 years? I'm using everything from my '93, and am wondering if the flex plate needs to be from an '00 or something.

RE-EDIT: Swap is pretty quick :) ;)

Update: I've been driving the car around for awhile, and am having only two problems. The first has to do with the car starting, where it'll start, then rpms drop and it dies. This'll happen 3-4 times, then it'll start ok. It seems to do it more when warmed up rather than cold, and was doing it now and then before the swap. I think it might be at least partially related to an improperly routed ground (I have a big one going to the starter, and don't remember taking it off there, but couldn't find another place for it).

The second problem is with fuel mileage. On average, I'm getting 19mpg, which blows. With the old engine even in bad shape, I got 28mpg regularly. I am running this swap off the original EJ18 ECU, and I'm thinking maybe it's lean or rich for whatever reason, or maybe the injectors are just dumping more fuel in than should be normal. While an SAFC (which I have laying around) would solve the problem for sure, I'd rather go the easier route of plugging in a '98 RS ECU if that would work. Any thoughts?

The squealing noise wound up being the little splash guard between the bellhousing and block, which had gotten bent upwards and was rubbing on the flywheel.