gimme the low down and dirty about brake torquing.

You must be refering to over torquing the lug nuts which can warp the brake rotors. The owners manual say to torque the lug nuts to 58 - 72 ft. lbs. So torque them to 65 ft. lbs. right in the middle. ;)

:p im talking about holding the brake down and revving in an auto

It just puts a lot of strain on the torque convertor. I've never owned an automatic, but do have a quick anecdote:

I rented a Cadillac Fleetwood (w/ 275 hp Northstar) two years ago. I kept launching it by torque braking. The car had 17 miles on it at the start of the weekend, and would burn serious rubber.

At the end of the weekend, it would not burn rubber, and the rpm's bogged when I tried to launch it. I'm not sure exactly what happenned to the car, but it was a beast on Friday, and a kittycat on Sunday.

It puts excess strain on the torque converter and excess heat on the transmission

then let's say i swap my torque converter and i get a transmission oil cooler. what are the ill effects of brake torquing? ;)

Well for starters you can plan on replacing your brakes soon. then your torque converter. then your tranny. and finally your engine. Have fun
look into a stall converter, figure out where your engine "kicks in" and get one for that R.P.M.

y don;t you just rev it up high in N and then shift into D... i heard that it works in some cars... anyways i might be takling dumb i donno much about automatic cars

i kept doin' it to my old 87 cressida, nothing really happend cept' that it wont run no more after launching it at 7k......:confused:

find out yourself :P
floor both the brakes and gas :P

when brake torquing you don't floor the gas. you take the rpm's to around 2000rpm max which is around the stall speed. i've only done this a few times its nothing great. as long change you tranny fluid more often you should be ok.

Guys, the effects of this on your engine and brakes are beyond debate. Brakes: if your rotors aren't turning, your brakes are not wearing. Brake torquing does not wear your brakes. Engine: I hope to god that running 2500 rpm or so against a load is not bad for your engine because you do it constantly when you're driving.

Unless it's getting the fluid hot enough to break it down, how do you "strain" a torque convertor?

Now let's talk about neutral drops in my old '85 Nissan Pulsar. Believe me, it's the only way to make 69 hp spin the tires through a slushbox!

cheers
mbs

You know the problem alot of people have had by yanking up on the e-break? same thing this will do to your torque converter. The fluid heats up and congeals and then you've got an engine trying to turn the transmission thru a semi solid substance which puts lots of strain on relatively brittle and weak fins inside the case and bad things start to happen... if your torque converter can handle it, I saw an old chevy truck snap a U-joint by doing this at a red light. Me in a 1983 volvo 240 w/ 180k... an old, hopped up late 1950's era chevy truck. He's sitting next to me revving up w/ the brake on, making the car jump... light goes green, I wait for him to go so he doesn't think I'm racing(come on... volvo 240? right...) BAM!!!!!!!! WHACK WHACK WHACK... I pulled my car off the road and asked him if he needed help, we look under the car, and the driveshaft is no longer attached to the diff... oops...

Fair enough... I still think you'd have to either do it for a while, or have some pretty hurtin' trans fluid already, for it to get that bad.

cheers
mbs

Yeah... and this was a ~40 year old ford....

Put in a big tranny cooler and you are good to go. Thats all you will need, because you just want the tranny fluid cooled down. It will also help out the tranny under normal driving (lower the fluid temps 30-40degrees, and it will DOUBLE the life of the fluid). To get the most out of brake torquing, put the can in neutral, and pump the brakes a few times to build up pressure, then put the car back into gear and start to rev up the motor. Once you build brake pressure, the car will not creep forward. If it is someting you plan on doing alot, switch over to synthetic fluid, because that alone will lower fluid temps. But, like everyting else, just my .02.


Russ

Jesus, do most of you have any idea how your drivetrain works????

1) A tranny cooler isnt' going to help one way, or the other. It's a radiator and it's only going to be effective if you're moving.

2) There is no wear on your brakes - you're not moving, the rotor is not spinning.

3) As mentioned before, you run your engine under load all the time, no problem there. If you redline while pre-loading, you're just an idiot, and your brakes probably won't hold that long, anyway.

4) If you pre-load your torque converter, you're going to toast your transmission fluid, and you'll have to replace it fairly frequently. Any other risk of damage - busting fins in the TC, or busting the drive shaft, etc., is going to happen well past the point where you smell burning fluid.

If you smell burning fluid, let off the gas immediately. Change your fluid often. 'nuff said.

Solution:

Get a manual transmission.

Originally posted by crash
Solution:

Get a manual transmission.

AMEN! Or, get a Level 10 Torque Converter.

im definitely gonna get a TC from level10 when i get the moola$$$. level10 is but an hour drive from me. is the labor gonna cost more than the TC??! arg. hehe