For all auto-x-ers and road racers making the sqeeze into the upper echelon of tire width.

Discuss - Fitment issues regarding wheels with tire sizes 255 width and up and any other issues with running beyond normal width tires.

READ THE THREAD, TRUST US, ALL YOUR TIRES ARE BELONG TO US

seriously, all the answers to your tire questions are in this thread somewhere, 60% of the time we are right 100% of the time.. ;)

Sizing Information (Current as of 1/13/07)
...suggestions, keeping this list down to sticky tires in big sizes....
Kumho 710
http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PrintTable.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID

=EV710 (http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PrintTable.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=EV710)
Kumho Ecsta V700
http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PrintTable.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=

V70A (http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PrintTable.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=V70A)
Kumho Victoracer V700
http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mai

nCatID=1&PtnID=V700 (http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=V700)

Hoosier AutoX and Road Racing Tires
https://www.hoosiertire.com/2007cat.pdf

Avon
http://www.avontyresusa.com/tires/tech_r_a.html
http://www.avontyresusa.com/tires/tech_r.html

BF GOODRICH G-force R1
http://bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/g-force-r1/3824.html

I can add more links if you provide them to me..

Some helpfull information for you to figure things out on your own. Please take the time to not piss off the thread regulars.

How to find your tire size and read your side wall markings:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=33

Tire Size Differences and names of Dimensional Values (Including OFFSET!)
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
Enter your old tire size and your new tire size to see the size differential. In my opion you want to be looking at the "end" setting as that will affect rubbing the most.

Staying within 1/2" rolling diameter of the stock size is also about the max you want to grow the total diameter.

Also, keeping all 4 tires near the same diameter is important for your differentials to work properly.

If you are trying to decide on a R-comp tire it is nice to look at the sizing chart and look at the size rim the tire is being sized on. In general if you go smaller than the rim size specified, expect your section width to be a little smaller. If you use a bigger rim expect the section to be stretch and also be cautious that the rim will stick out past the tire even if it seats the bead.

TireRack's Definition of Contact Patch
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=10

In general here's what you can do, and by the way if you go and spend your money and don't do any research and get screwed because you believed everything I put here for THE answer than go F' yourself, it is the internet.

Let me start by saying:
2002-2004 Impreza Sedans are all the same for fitment. The bugeye may be a little different but I am guessing not much.
2005-2007 Impreza Sedans are also all the same for fitment. Now you have a plastic fender thingy on the rear wheel wells and a smaller lip extending into the wheel well which provides a little more clearance.

STi and WRX differences, the STi has a little different track in the rear, on 05+STi IIRC, that may reduce your outer clearance for the same size offset regarding sqeezing in big tires.

Hoosiers run bigger than kuhmo's for the same size, that's fact..

Don't run more than a 5mm spacer insert, you just won't have enough exposed stud threads to be safe, buy yourself a proper spacer kit or new longer studs, summit racing sells the ARP studs that are uber long enough for anything, you will need open lugs.

17 Inch Wheels (this section)
************************************************** *****
Stock Suspension

275/40R17 tires will fit with stock STi wheels, 7.5"-8" in width (+53), you will need to adjust your alignment in the front to avoid strut rub and you will need 3-5mm spacers for the rear depending on whether you have an 04 STi or not, 05 STi+ will fit, 08+ fitment unknown

If the above applies do the math. Any size up to 275 (with equivalent rolling diameter) will fit on the stock wheels. As you move into different suspension combinations you are adding variables. Lowering springs that are crap anyways will increase the likelhood of rubbing the front fender liners or rubbing on odd spots in the rear if you lower too much which is bad for suspension geometry anyways. I really don't care what you do it's your car.

Aftermarket suspensions

What seems to be the most likely issue here is what size spring (length and dia) you are using, where the lower spring perch ends up, the lower spring perch design, and what type of adjustability you have. Camber plates maxxed inwards and use of the lower camber bolt will allow maximum clearance.

275/40R17 tires will fit nicely on rim sizes from 9-10" and can be squeezed onto 8"-8.5" if neccesary.
You will likely need a +35 offset wheel to fit front and rear with modest (3mm) spacers available if needs be. Search the thread for your suspension, it's probably been brought up. These tires offer a larger rolling diameter if you are trying to squeeze a little more out of 2nd gear.

295/35R17 tires will fit nicely on rim sizes from 9-10" and perhaps up to 11" but I haven't tried it.
I have run these tires with a +25 offset with no major issues. You will likely need to roll and flare the rear fenders and I was thinking in the rear that a +35 offset may work still and make for better clearance. You will likely not tuck anything over a 275 (possibly a 285) in the rear of the car. These tires will probably stick out about an inch.

315/35R17 will fit 10-11" wheels. I have only run them on 10" wheels and I feel 11's would make the car a lot wider due to the accomodations that would need to be made to turn them in. I think AutoWRXer has run the 11's up front. I will talk to him about it. You will need a +20 or so offset wheel up front or in my case a +25 with a spacer. You will need to run a little higher in the rear or hack the rear fender up to keep from rubbing in the rear. Any amount of flaring or pulling in the rear really won't help, you will have to cut or ride high. In the front I have flared my fenders, pushed out the front bumper sides. There isn't even room to run mudflaps, so plan to take those off as well. Also you may have swaybar rub issues and you will go through fender liners every season at a minimum.

I am giving up a lot of information here. A lot of what I can do is also relevant to the suspension setup I am running. I am running ZZYZX motorsports coil-overs with custom camber/caster plates up front and camber plates in the rear. With this setup I can get anywhere up to -6 camber based on tire size and near +7 caster based on tire size. I also have the added droop and quality of Koni dampers. All my fenders are rolled and flared. I have opted not to cut at the moment, but it may be neccesary and I won't know that till I do some more dataAQ next year as our season here in Pittsburgh is April till beginning of October and it's pretty much over.

************************************************** *****
18 Inch Wheels (this section)

I got to go eat some mexican, I will get to this soon

Thanks,
Justin
my site www.SpryRacing.com

Sponsors:

www.zzyzxmotorsports.com
www.AgileAuto.com

Some day I will come back from eating Mexican...guess I should read this thread more than yearly at this point, lol.

are you asking for Stock class only?

Dude, there are no issues :confused:

255 - fits stock (02-05)
275 - fits stock (05) (04, slight spacer or less offset and roll rear fender, edit: the 8mm or 45ish offset wheel required to fit the 275s is not AS legal, it will work great for BSP though ;) )
285/30/18 - just chop the front fenders a tad and use offset
315/35/17 - lots of offset, lots of fender, not worth it

<beep>Done</beep>

-Tom

are you asking for Stock class only?


I would think SM or SP only. I'm interested in this as well, looking at SP the year after next. Or whatever configuration SP is the year after next.

At what point does rim width become the limiting factor? 265? 275?
I think you can you get 8.5" wheels rear 9" front and up to 255 tire with minimal fender work.
After that it's cutting or flaring fenders. Or both.
And then a whole new differential of offsets.

Edit: oops thanks Tom

Setup that worked for me so far with no issues:

JIC FLTA-2 Coil Overs
255/40R17 Kumho Victoracers
17 X 8.5" SSR Competitions +48 offset
5mm spacer required for fitment - Strut clearance is a few
No issues running 7k/5k springs or 600lb/500lb springs

others can chime in with their working combos....and any feed back on fitment issues..

Dude, there are no issues :confused:

255 - fits stock (02-05)
275 - fits stock (05) (04, slight spacer or less offset)
285/30/18 - just chop the front fenders a tad and use offset
315/35/17 - lots of offset, lots of fender, not worth it

<beep>Done</beep>

-Tom

Now all we need is a comment from KC and we can make this thread go away, lol. I had a lot of questions (edit:as a noob) running bigger sizes so I figured I'd start this thread. I was only trying to help as the number of question I am asking are slowing turning into answers for others.

:edited for stupidity:

Well I guess what are your specific questions then? ;)

-Tom

It really depends on your struts. Struts that are narrower or attach a little more inboard are going to use less spacer. If you need to use a 5mm spacer, with wide rims/tires you might then run into fender problems. I ran 275/45/16 tires on my 02 WRX and used a 5mm spacer in the rear to get them to clear the strut. It still just barely fit under the rear fender after it was rolled.

On my 98 Impreza the wheels stick 2"+ outside the fender wells, so that requires either hacking or going to stiff spring rates. I hacked. The wheels I'm using are like +25 offset, so they have no issues with clearing the struts without a spacer, they are just about perfect actually, I couldn't have guessed any better. :)

This is verging on PM material, but I'll throw in a few comments:

Justin, I'm actually making the 255 -> 275 jump for next season, so we are in the same place. Mundi's run the 275's a few times this season (where the heck is he, BTW) so he would be a resource as well.

My plan is to use 275 V-710's on the +48 17x8.5 SSR's. This will be in conjunction with extended studs and 15mm spacers. I expect to have to give up a little camber in back to make the 15mm spacers work, but based on Tom's comments, that sounds like it might be a good thing. I'm also expecting to do modest rear fender work, but I need to actually get the tires mounted up to evaluate that. Don't forget that your spring rates and ride height effect clearance too.

To me, the $64K question is the hubs. I want to know how much of the blasted knockback is a manifestation of the '04 hub. If it turns out to be the lion's share, I'll probably swap to '05 hubs, which obviously means new wheels, more OTS wide wheel options, etc. OTOH, if I stay with the '04 hubs, I'll probably need custom wheels to get enough offset for 285+ tires, which is where I'm planning to go for '07.

There's a little more to this, but I don't want to bogg things down at the outset.

Paul

I want to know how much of the blasted knockback is a manifestation of the '04 hub. 1000000%

I'll probably swap to '05 hubs, which obviously means new wheels, more OTS wide wheel options, etc. OTOH, if I stay with the '04 hubs, I'll probably need custom wheels to get enough offset for 285+ tires, which is where I'm planning to go for '07.
The 05 Hub swap ain't as easy as you think. Search for Javid's posts on the subject as we are currently in the process of swapping his. While the rear is a complete piece of cake using the same knuckle so only a wheel bearing/hub is needed, The front ABS/Speed sensors no longer line up with the 04 axle using the 05 knuckle (no ABS or center diff) so you have to get some custom speed rings made/fit etc. Ol' Javid is working on that right now and I'm sure he'll post his solution once its found.

-Tom

^Dammit, well I guess there's a hub swap in my future. That might be in the cards for '06 if it can be worked out, but I'll probably hold off. I know the 275's aren't ideal for 8.5" wheels, but they'll be a huge upgrade from my 255 Victo's.

Now let's discuss the old chassis.... Has anyone been successful putting 255s without cutting the fender? If so, what setup? I am currently running JIC FLT-2RS coilovers.

Also, lots of talk about spacers...is there a 17x8 or 17x8.5 that will fit a 245 or 255, respectively, without spacers?

Thanks

Christian

Now let's discuss the old chassis.... Has anyone been successful putting 255s without cutting the fender? If so, what setup? I am currently running JIC FLT-2RS coilovers.

Sure, 255's are no problem without cutting. I have KW race coilovers and 255 Victoracers on +48 17/8.5 SSR's.

Also, lots of talk about spacers...is there a 17x8 or 17x8.5 that will fit a 245 or 255, respectively, without spacers?

I'm sure there is, but I don't know if they would be available OTS or with whatever other attributes you might seek.

My Victo's basically touch the rear perches without spacers, so the spacer thickness = the clearance. I have -1.2 rear camber, so some of that could be given up to run the +48 wheels without spacers. The fronts have just slightly more clearance with -3.0 camber. I fooled around with the alignment and spacers for a while before settling on the 5mm's. That's certainly as thick as I would go on the OEM studs and they provide good clearance with reasonable camber settings.

Now let's discuss the old chassis.... Has anyone been successful putting 255s without cutting the fender? If so, what setup? I am currently running JIC FLT-2RS coilovers.

Also, lots of talk about spacers...is there a 17x8 or 17x8.5 that will fit a 245 or 255, respectively, without spacers?

Thanks

Christian

I would imagine due to my situation that a 17 X 8.5" with a offset of +43 would make up for the 5mm spacer I am using with 255's thus working without spacers. This would still require fender rolling on a 04 (not sure 04+) unless you have less travel due to stiff springs.


Sciolist - wow! quite agressive you guys switching hubs for those issues. I guess it hasn't been a problem for me but what the hell do I know anyways.

J

Thanks guys! I am considering going to 245 or 255 next year for my DSP '00 RS. When I saw this, I thought I would capitalize on having some experience in this thread. Based on the 225 V700 (17x7") I am running now, I didn't think you could get away with a 255s, without major mods. The camber discussion may be what I am looking for as I am currently running -3.2/-1.4 on the car currently with 9k/9k springs (note that the car is 2700# without driver). With the current setup, I have about 2-3mm to the spring perch, that could be increased with a little less camber.

Now that I see people have done it, I am more willing to take the wheel/tire plunge and play around until it fits.

Christian

edit: Saw that you meant GC8.

I think steve from zzyzx and Jay from Storm Racing are about the only two that have tried wide tires on the GC8s. They ran 265s and 275s and what I believe both of them did is to use high enough spring rates to keep the tires off the fenders. Cutting is always an option though and if you hack, all you need to worry about is the offset to clear your strut.

-Tom

My contribution to this thread is for 05 Sti’s in stock class.

Stock 05 Sti with 17x8 – 48 offset wheels will fit a 255/40-17 victoracer on the car with no rubbing at all. About 15 mm or more of space between the rear tire and rear strut.

Stock 05 Sti with 17x8 – 48 offset wheels will fit a 275/40-17 v710 on the car with no rubbing at all. Only about 5 mm of space between the tire and the rear strut.

Stock 05 Sti with 17x8.5 – 48 offset wheels will fit 255/40-17 victos on the car with no rubbing at all. About 12 mm of space between the tire and rear strut.

There is a big difference between the 275 (v710’s) and the 255 (victos). I would highly recommend it, even on the same 17x8 wheel.

Old chassis? As in GC8? or do you mean the 02-04? If its the latter, its the same exact thing as the 05 but without the factory rolled rear fenders.

-Tom

<-
GC...I guess I see the 04 as a body change to the '05, but I guess technically, it may be called a chasis change. Sorry for the confusion.

<-
GC...I guess I see the 04 as a body change to the '05, but I guess technically, it may be called a chasis change. Sorry for the confusion.
Oh no, I agree, 04-05 was just a factory fender roll, GC->GD was a chassis change. I modded my post above as I saw you meant GC after I posted :)

-Tom

I've been running 275/40-17 hoosier on 17x8 35mm offset Enkeis on my 04 STi. No rubbage, except on the rear fender lip when I hit huge bumps (north course nationals) or have Tom in the backseat.

:)

Chris H.

285/30/18 - just chop the front fenders a tad and use offset
-Tom

Can you please elaborate? I'm going this route with the new zzyzx coilovers for next year most likely.

Can you please elaborate? I'm going this route with the new zzyzx coilovers for next year most likely.
:confused:

1) take saw
2) cut fenders so the tire won't hit them
3) ??????
4) profit!

:)

example 1: http://www.tomhoppe.com/pictures/04_09_15%20SCCA%20Nationals/images/IMG_0567.jpg
example 2: http://www.trackmonkeyracing.com/pictures/2005_08_07_Before_Cage/IMG_2987.jpg

-Tom

I'm running 275/45/16s on 16x10 rims on a GC car, with around 600lb springs in the rear and front currently. I also cut the fenders out about 1.5" in the front and rear. If you had really high springrates the only place I think I'd need to cut out were the rear part of the front fenders, because at full lock you just can't get the tire past it. Anyways, the rims I am running are 10" wide and have a 5" backspace (or maybe 6 I'd have to go back and look). I have maybe 5mm or so clearance to the rear strut currently to my ground control coilovers. Fronts have plenty of room.

http://my.execpc.com/~pbedard/smcar/car.jpg

Jay is running the same wheels only his are 9" wide, and he's using 265 V710s.

Tom,
My goal is to run that setup with as little fender "modification" as possible. If I have to, I will, but I just don't want it to look like a hack job. That's why i'm looking the route of custom fender flares - not the ghey widebody kits that are out there.

From your original post, you made it sound like 285/30/18's could be tucked....that's why I asked for the elaboration.

Sciolist - wow! quite agressive you guys switching hubs for those issues. I guess it hasn't been a problem for me but what the hell do I know anyways.

If we were road racing I would have ditched the hubs long ago (assuming Tom's right, and I expect he is). All of this has to be taken in context, though. The SP rules don't allow me to do the brakes, so I can't take full advantage of what would otherwise be some major unsprung weight loss. I can't even change the composition of the rotors, so basically we are left with retrofitting pads, fluid and SS lines.

My suspicion is that the calipers don't advance the pads as well when they start getting thin. That's easy enough to evaluate with new pads, which I will do soon.

The big rub with all of this is that new hubs mean new wheels. I'd have to go custom (right?) to get 10" wheels to fit the 5x100 hubs. Either way, it's going to cost some $ to get 285's+ on the car, I just want to make sure the whole thing is thought through before I start into cuttin'. Running 275's for '06 gives me some time to figure it all out, and maybe even gives the aftermarket a little more time to respond.

Re the aggression, hey baby, ignorance is bliss! :banana:

:confused:

1) take saw
2) cut fenders so the tire won't hit them
3) ??????
4) profit!

:)

example 1: http://www.tomhoppe.com/pictures/04_09_15%20SCCA%20Nationals/images/IMG_0567.jpg
example 2: http://www.trackmonkeyracing.com/pictures/2005_08_07_Before_Cage/IMG_2987.jpg

-Tom
That is an extremely clean job. Do you have to do any rust proofing after cutting?

That is an extremely clean job. Do you have to do any rust proofing after cutting?

That brings up a good question... How does everybody "finish" the fender after cutting? I know I would have a half-assed looking cut there! :furious: hehe

That brings up a good question... How does everybody "finish" the fender after cutting? I know I would have a half-assed looking cut there! :furious: hehe

I applied a thin coat of rust.

I am thinking along the lines of what SloRice wants to do. Mmm.. nice custom 2" widebody flares to fit some sweet 10" wheels. Some of us like driving our cars on the street, lol.

So....noboby with 315's:devil:

Actually, could we really utilize bigger than 285's? As far as getting them warmed up and what not?

Kick a$$ thread.

dwx: Mind if I ask where you acquired your rims? Model/Make/Weight?

Kind of a sob story for me. Turbo the GC8... and they debut the WRX. Flare the fluck out of the fenders, and they make the STi.

Car's currently on Enkei 16x9" rims with 265 series victoracer rubber. Also in the garage is a 17x10 steel rim (mock up purposes) and a 315 series tire. Fits with room to spare.

Now if I could only find the time to get it out of the garage...

Fitz
www.Flat4Racing.com

http://www.flat4racing.com/images/Ascutney-rear.jpg

http://www.flat4racing.com/images/Tropicana2.jpg

Those wheels are from Real Racing. 16" is the largest they make, they mainly make dirt track wheels. In 16x10 they weigh 13.1 lbs. I'm not sure what model they are, they only have 1 model that uses lugs afaik. However I wouldn't feel comfortable using those wheels for say street driving.

I should get my 2004 STi back from fender work this evening so I'll see how it looks. The person doing says he can now get his entire hand lengthwise between the stock tires and the fender, so I'll be able to run 275/40-17 V710's on the 17x8.5 SSR Competition's without issues (I had them pulled out enough to allow them with the 600lb springs and he says he got me another inch). No cutting, but lots of pulling and repainting. With the KW Suspension coilovers I had to run 18mm of spacer with this wheel/tire combo to keep them away from the struts. The 2004's seem to have much less room in the back than the 2005's.

I also had front fender well rubbing in the front when I used this combo and 15mm of spacer, where the tires actually rubbed all the way through the plastic on the body side of the well. As it is now my front fender tops are pulled out very slightly, a metal bracket is pushing the bottom front's out about an inch to keep from rubbing, and now the inside plastic splash shield has some modifications to stop the rubbing.

Running these 8.5" wheels with 255/40-17 Victoracers is much easier on a 2004 STi. Depending on your coilover clearance, you might need to do a small bit of fender rolling in back, but really minor. I used a cheap 7-8mm spacer to get enough inside clearance. I have run a 3mm spacer in front though it probably isn't necessary and I don't think there are any other fitment issues.

One thing to consider though is that the stock studs are really not long enough to handle 8mm of spacer properly. Long studs in the front are easy but the back is tricky if you go much longer than stock (the trick to put them in without removing the whole hub doesn't work if they're much longer). Of course proper wheel offsets would be best if you have the money. If you can find 5mm spacers I bet these would give enough room in back while giving enough stud thread to be safe.

My guess is that the right thing if money isn't an issue is to use 285/30-18 tires (V710's unless you're sponsored by Hoosier) on a nice wide wheel (e.g. 10.5"). That seems to be where a lot of the fast AWD cars have settled (Navid's Evo, Daddio's Evo). Quite a bit of width on the ground but not too much to heat up, very short sidewall for good response, and a smaller diameter than almost anything other than a 235/40-17 for gearing advantage (although arguably the STi doesn't want this).

Anyway, for fitment, 2005's with stock springs seem to be able to get 275/40-17's on their stock 8" wheels without issues. 2004's have narrower 7.5" wheels and can easily get 255's on, but 275 V710's may be a bit harder though I believe it can be done if forced. You need to check 2004 vs. 2005 because they are different in back with the 2005 having quite a bit more room. Also, once you change springs and/or wheels, your fitment issues will be different than people with stock setups. Trying to fit 275's on my car, I was told by a thousand people "Larry Fine did it in AS, so you can too". Absolutely incorrect -- 1 inch wider wheel plus "pink" springs = huge difference.

For a 2004 STi with STi "pink" springs and SSR Competion 17x8.5 wheels (ET48 offset), 255/40-17 Victoracers will require just a minor fender lip rolling unless you can get more room inside from coilovers. 275/40-17 Hoosier A3S03's are quite a bit larger, and 275/40-17 V710's are bigger yet. The V710's require a lot of spacer (about ET30) unless your coilover spring perch is above the tire, and this combination of wide tire plus moving the wheel out from the body a bunch means nontrivial fender modifications.

I've also seen people who seem happy running with the tires sticking out from the car, in which case I guess all this fender stuff is irrelevent. This must take stiff springs plus a lot of height, as autocrossing on asphalt with 600 pound springs still seems to give 2 inches of travel in back on my car / driving.

Easy solution. Sell 04, buy 05 ;) Then run 275s or 285s.

If you have a real suspension, you don't need to cut the rear to fit 275s or 285s on an 05, just need to trim the front for the 285.

The fender on the trackmonkeyracing.com car was done by a body shop and they resprayed it after the work. Looks OEM. The 315s do fit on 17x11s, I just don't think there is any benefit to them over 285/30/18s because of many reasons.

-Tom

If you have a real suspension, you don't need to cut the rear to fit 275s or 285s on an 05, just need to trim the front for the 285.
eh, you still need to push out the front bumper cover ever so slightly for the 275/45 17 (for the 04 at any rate).

Easy solution. Sell 04, buy 05 ;) Then run 275s or 285s.

If you have a real suspension, you don't need to cut the rear to fit 275s or 285s on an 05, just need to trim the front for the 285.

The fender on the trackmonkeyracing.com car was done by a body shop and they resprayed it after the work. Looks OEM. The 315s do fit on 17x11s, I just don't think there is any benefit to them over 285/30/18s because of many reasons.

-Tom

Pretty much what I was thinking. Except for buying a new car.

my setup is:
2004 STi
HKS Hipermax RS coilovers
Whiteline big bars
Hoosier Cup Tires 245/45/17....you can say these are like a 255/45/17 type street tire. (more like a 265 if they made that size)

I had rubbing issues at first, but then just started cranking up the height on my coilover perches until they cleared the tires. My current height is just a little over stock height.

Eventually I'd like to go to a bigger size, but it looks like fender rolling/flaring would be in order.

eh, you still need to push out the front bumper cover ever so slightly for the 275/45 17 (for the 04 at any rate).

my 04 STi with 275 Hoosiers. Barely rolled the rear fender lip. Never touched the front. At 13.75" ride height.

http://www.subrew.com/library/24july05/P1010003.JPG

http://www.subrew.com/library/24july05/P1010005.JPG

Chris H.

Are those Enkei RPF1? The widest (at least according to their web site) they make is 8". Are you running a 275 Hoosier on an 8" wide wheel?

Thanks,
Dustin

Anybody know where to buy the Enkei ES-Tarmac?

http://www.enkei.co.jp/en/p_detail_est_pri.html

http://www.irs.co.jp/oversea/index.htm can supply them. They have reasonable prices and shipping isn't too bad either. Nobody in the US sells them. Too bad the current exchange rate sucks.

we're on 17x10s. we stick out considerably more in the rear than you do, Chris. so i'd guess that we either have more tread width due to wheels, the 710s are wider than the hoosiers, or the coilovers may have something to do with it. looks like we're also running a little higher than you, so the relative radius at the level of the bottom of the bumper cover may be larger for us. we had to push the bottom of the bumper cover out just a little bit so the tires would clear when at lock. we also rolled the rear fenders; though, we didn't have to.

http://www.irs.co.jp/oversea/index.htm can supply them. They have reasonable prices and shipping isn't too bad either. Nobody in the US sells them. Too bad the current exchange rate sucks.
Thanks, I've sent them an inquiry.

random thoughts cause this thread is already too long to read:

Strut fitment and high offset can be handled by running both bolts and plates. Bolts out plates in = more room, I figure enough for a 275 on a 40 to 45 ET wheel.

The 04 to 05 convertion does need new wheel speed gears up front. I will have my local machine shop make me some in mid oct, if they work fine then I will probably have them make 5 more sets for other 04 owners. This swap is 'cheap' if you plan it right. If you already have 3 sets of 5x100 SSRs and a pile of 5x100 two piece rotors sitting around; the swap is going to hurt the old pocket book. But if you plan to keep your 04 STi for a while and love to abuse the snot out of it at the track/autoX, it is a VERY wise mod.

As some one above posted, the rear fender can be rolled AND stretched to give you at least another 1" of space. To me, if you know a good shop with an experianced body puller, there is no reason to roll and paint w/o pulling too. I will post a pic of my pull shortly. Of course the rear wheel rate and camber play a big roll in the tire vs fender problem.

My understanding is that the wheel to strut clearance in the rear is tighter than the front. So the bolt and plate combo there will be more usefull than the bolt/plate combo in the front.

Note; getting it to fit is the easy part. Utilizing a tire that is ~30% than stock may be much harder. Proper suspension setup as well as driving will be needed to make the most of a wide tire; other wise your just paying more for wider rubber.

275 40 17 Kumho 710s on 17x9 ET35
Chargespeed front.
Rolled and Pulled OEM rear.
In this pic the car has very little if any rear camber.

http://www.tomhoppe.com/misc%20pics/javid/IMG_2155.jpg

WRX_Mundi....how bout them fender flair pics??? :D

Here are three photos. 2004 STi with stock struts and "pink" springs using Group N hats in the rear and PDE plates plus bolts in the front. Camber is -4 in front and -2 in back. Stock 7.5" wheels with stock RE070 tires, but using an 8mm spacer so they're pushed out some.

Click for larger images.

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257717/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257717/original.jpg)

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257716/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257716/original.jpg)

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257715/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/49257715/original.jpg)

Sorry I don't have a 275 mounted. I can snap some with 255/40-17 Victos later this week.

Here are some photos of when we were playing with a single 275/40-17 Hoosier A3S03 (the V710 is larger). On 17x8.5 SSR Competition, with KW Suspension Coilovers, using about 12mm of spacer (not quite enough to run on, but enough for testing). The other wheel/tires are all stock.

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306194/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306194/original.jpg)

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306195/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306195/original.jpg)

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306196/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306196/original.jpg)

http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306197/medium.jpg (http://www.pbase.com/dana/image/43306197/original.jpg)

It turned out that this amount of flaring, combined with 11kg springs (616 pound), and the amount of space seen in the last photo, was not enough to keep the insides of the fender wells from ripping the rear tires to shreds under extended sweepers. Hence the extra pulling I've had done seen in the top photos.

It turned out that this amount of flaring, combined with 11kg springs (616 pound), and the amount of space seen in the last photo, was not enough to keep the insides of the fender wells from ripping the rear tires to shreds under extended sweepers. Hence the extra pulling I've had done seen in the top photos.

I am surprised. So the pull didn't clear with 255s or 275s. What was the effective offset (ET minus spacer)?

I am surprised. So the pull didn't clear with 255s or 275s. What was the effective offset (ET minus spacer)?It clears 255/40-17 Victoracers just fine (offset ET40 on an 8.5" rim). Under normal use and mild autocross it fit 275/40-17 V710's (ET30 again with 8.5" rim). But when I went with a different course that had more elevation changes and a long sweeper it cut into the tire.

If you imagine 0 degrees facing toward the front of the car and 90 facing straight up, all the contact was between about 30 and 80 degrees. My extended pulling concentrated in that space especially. I have the KW's off and the pinks back on which means much softer springs and no height adjustment (and I think i had the coilovers slightly higher in the back than the pinks -- about 1 inch lower than stock all around).

We have a lot of sites with pretty extreme gradients meaning the karts get air and the lighter cars get really light, then you come down again which compresses the car. Some of them are smooth, and some are very bumpy -- I took the KW's off partly because the car wasn't drivable with those spring rates on one of our very bumpy sites (the few people who attempt kart drives there often come away with bruises and sometimes worse injuries). On the other hand, those spring rates were pretty good at the big Wendover courses, and our upcoming airport race would appreciate them too.

The 275 should fit the strut with a 35 ET. With -2 deg you may be close. If you get plates and bolt you should be able to run a 35 ET, any camber you want and not rub.

Yup, thats my question, why ET30? With the stock shocks on an 05 you can run around a 43 offset and fit 275s on a 17x9. Isn't the ratio of wheel to shock distance the same on the 04 as the 05? And don't you have *more* room with the KWs?

-Tom

Want firmer abs in just 5 mins?
Going bald?
Need free stock trades?

Then convert your 04 STi to the 05 hubs:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777998

As I said above, I should have the first of the machined gears done by mid Oct. Unless, of course, Mr. Hoppe wants to mark and pull the axles and bring them to the machine shop for me... :D :devil: Then they would be done by the end of the month.

Want firmer abs in just 5 mins?
Going bald?
Need free stock trades?

Then convert your 04 STi to the 05 hubs:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=777998

As I said above, I should have the first of the machined gears done by mid Oct. Unless, of course, Mr. Hoppe wants to mark and pull the axles and bring them to the machine shop for me... :D :devil: Then they would be done by the end of the month.
I

a) watch your race car
b) align your race car
c) manage your race car
d) order parts for your race car

and now you want me to work on it too? :furious: :lol:

-Tom
who thinks jacko needs to stop working in OH for a bit

ok... so im going to the scca runoffs on the 24th, i have access to the paddock and i really really want to pick up some r-comps for my 05 STi... now some guys have said at my local club (OVR region) that they got free, slightly used tires from the hoosier booth. I dont want to go out and spend a ton on new r-comps... i will run them if i can get em free at the run-offs. So anyway, any tips for this, supposedly there is just a booth or whatever that i can go to and maybe get the retired tires.

I understand that all the tires should be compound for track, not for autox, and thats ok since they will be free... I am in Astock class, i have everything i can pretty much do in the class (besides a catback) except r-comps, im gonna try to get a 2nd set of 05 STi wheels and mount the tires on them, to my understanding the 05 wheels are 17x8, so i can run up to 275 tires from what you have posted... would it be wise to try to get something smaller like 255 just to be safe?

thanks!

Yup, thats my question, why ET30? With the stock shocks on an 05 you can run around a 43 offset and fit 275s on a 17x9. Isn't the ratio of wheel to shock distance the same on the 04 as the 05? And don't you have *more* room with the KWs?Actually the KW's didn't seem to give me any more room. The spring perch is located exactly where the widest part of the tire is (as I know after running too much camber and melting part of it). I tried just the 15mm spacer (for ET33) and couldn't squeeze my 3mm spacer in the gap (so there was less than 3mm of clearance between the tire and spring perch). So I added the extra 3mm to allow for some suspension movement. ET35 would have put the tire and perch into contact.

The KW's are slotted so I went back to the stock bolt and they could still get more than 4 degrees negative camber in back. On the stock struts with stock bolt I'm limited to about 2 degrees which is about as much as I want to run anyway.

I've run aftermarket bolts and they certainly don't change the tire <-> strut clearance. They just give a bit more adjustment. I haven't put plates in though -- I could see how that that might give more clearance.

Maybe my car is just screwed up. I've heard the 05's have a slightly different shape to the spring perch that gives more inside room. But you guys are talking about over half an inch more room on the inside than my car has.

Double post,

stupid computer (users).

So I added the extra 3mm to allow for some suspension movement.

Once your upright bolts (or camber bolts) are tight, the strut to tire distance is fixed, never going to move. The total camber may change as the rear compresses but strut to wheel will remain constant.

Maybe the KWs are wider than my JICs or the 05 strut assembly :confused:

Once your upright bolts (or camber bolts) are tight, the strut to tire distance is fixed, never going to move. The total camber may change as the rear compresses but strut to wheel will remain constant.

Maybe the KWs are wider than my JICs or the 05 strut assembly :confused:

I have the same issue on my GC bodied RS with the JICs. The collar for the spring perch is the widest part...and it sits right next to the tire. I don't have an 05 (I have an 04), but I don't have the JICs on there anyway. So YMMV on the 05 STi.

Christian

Just to clarify, 275 V710s on 17x9 ET35 fit on 05 rear struts as well as the rear JICs (was fitted to an 04 but 05 will have more room).

The 05 was used in ESP an had 0 to -1 camber rear. The fit to the JICs had a bunch of work and no alighnment, I know there was less than -2 camber....

My car is being aligned today and Hoppe will likely have a better idea about the space vs camber with the ET35s. In any event there should be plenty of room.

One random thought: My JICs were custom built and have 12k 6" spings with ~2k 2" helper springs all around. Which would mean that spring perch may be in a different location than the standard JICs.

One random thought: My JICs were custom built and have 12k 6" spings with ~2k 2" helper springs all around. Which would mean that spring perch may be in a different location than the standard JICs.

That explains a lot... I have custom JICs, too, but they are 9k springs and no helper. (2700# GC8 RS) With the helpers, I am sure the lower perch would move.

wrxmundi: Are you referring to the front or rear inside clearance with the KW's? My 05 has the KW V3's on it and 245/45/17 RT-215s fit just fit with the stock +53 offset wheels. There is more inside clearance in the front than in the rear. In the rear it is tight but I am running +53 wheels and no spacer.

What ride heights are you using? Right now to clear the inside front I have to run the car so high that the rear perch is above the rear tire with even more room.

I have the biggest problem rubbing in the inside front with the stock wheels and the azenis at a low ride height. How low in offse do you guys think I would need to go to get it to stop rubbing in the front with 245/45/17 tires at 13.75" center of hub to fender?

I realize that I could really use a wider rim to support these tires but how much is enough? 8.5, 9, 9.5?

I can choose between:
5zigen FN01R-C 17x9 +35,+43
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35, 17x9.5 +38 do these fit?
SSR Comps 17x8.5 +48 or something else i can't find a listing for the sizes offered in these that fits an 05 STi?

Nate who wishes STU allowed us AWD cars 275's

Nate who wishes STU allowed us AWD cars 275's Never gonna happen as they AWD cars are clear overdogs as is right now :)

On the 05 I wouldn't even think about anything other then a 17x9 43 offset.

-Tom

Never gonna happen as they AWD cars are clear overdogs as is right now :)

On the 05 I wouldn't even think about anything other then a 17x9 43 offset.

-Tom

clear overdogs?
The M3 was right there at nationals. =)

whats the widest tire you can fit on the stock 2005 sti bbs wheels?

whats the widest tire you can fit on the stock 2005 sti bbs wheels?


275/40-17, but you would need a 5mm spacer for the rear wheels. A 17x8 with a 48 offset will work fine without a spacer.

well... for the stock classes (astock in my case) are you allowed to use a spacer... to my understanding you have to run the stock wheel sizes... but a spacer???

thanks

I realize that I could really use a wider rim to support these tires but how much is enough? 8.5, 9, 9.5?

I can choose between:
5zigen FN01R-C 17x9 +35,+43
Enkei RPF1 17x9 +35, 17x9.5 +38 do these fit?
SSR Comps 17x8.5 +48 or something else i can't find a listing for the sizes offered in these that fits an 05 STi?

Nate who wishes STU allowed us AWD cars 275's
The RPF1s may not fit, the zigens and comps will.

For the RPF1s, Hoppe was told that some of the wider mid offset wheels were 350Z specific and had a big lip (and don't clear the brembos. Hoppe?

I confirmed that the Enkie NTO-3s all have the same size lip across the sizes. and the 17x8 ET45 (or some thing close to those specs I don't remember) clears the brembos. So any NTO3 wider than 8 with equal or less offset should be fine for the brembos.

well... for the stock classes (astock in my case) are you allowed to use a spacer... to my understanding you have to run the stock wheel sizes... but a spacer???

thanks


In stock classes you have to run the stock wheel size and be within 1/4 a inch offset of stock. Which equates to about 7 mm. So, with stock wheels having a 53 offset, you could actually use a 46 offset wheel. Or you could use the stock wheel and a 5mm spacer and still be legal for stock class.

clear overdogs?
The M3 was right there at nationals. =)
None of those STis were even 50% done. The M3 was way more done then that.

-Tom

In stock classes you have to run the stock wheel size and be within 1/4 a inch offset of stock. Which equates to about 7 mm. So, with stock wheels having a 53 offset, you could actually use a 46 offset wheel. Or you could use the stock wheel and a 5mm spacer and still be legal for stock class.

ok i gotcha, and finally my last question so i understand... On the stock 05 bbs wheel and NO spacer or whatever, what is the max tire size?


ps, if i get roadrace compound instead of autox compound, will the difference be really noticable... im a total noob so i dont know what the diff would be, i assume the roadrace comps are harder so... they take longer to heat to optimum grip, thats all i could think up.


anyway, thanks for the help

ok i gotcha, and finally my last question so i understand... On the stock 05 bbs wheel and NO spacer or whatever, what is the max tire size?


ps, if i get roadrace compound instead of autox compound, will the difference be really noticable... im a total noob so i dont know what the diff would be, i assume the roadrace comps are harder so... they take longer to heat to optimum grip, thats all i could think up.


anyway, thanks for the help


On the stock BBS wheel with no spacer you can get a 255/40-17 tire on the rear of the car. A 275 will rub.

There is a difference between say a Toyo RA-1 (roadrace) and a Kumho v710 (autocross) because of the harder compound on the RA-1. But it will also last a lot longer then the top autocross r-comps. You will still see a night and day between say the RA-1 and your stock tires. So, if you are on a budget and need the tire to last these harder compounds may be up your alley. I had the 255/40-17 kumho victoracers on my car first and they have lasted about 80 runs so far, with another 50+ still in them on my friends car. I would say this tire is between a RA-1 and v710 per se.

If you use a spacer though, the 275 will fit like a champ all around :)

-Tom

Thanks for the responses javid and tom,

Do you know how much the 5zigens really weight in that size?

Also where do they sell 17x9 ssr comps that will fit? I know that they are more difficult to get right now with the bankruptcy and reorganization but does anyone have them. I guess I should look for a set used on evo forums since they use the same bolt pattern and a similar offset to what I need to clear on the inside.

Tom do you know if any of the wider RPF1's will or will not fit? The site lists 17x9 +35 and 17x9.5 +38 so if one is for a 350z and other is for evo's that one would be perfect for me.

Are there any other reasonably priced(less than 400 each) light wheels I am missing?

Javid how much do those NTO-3's weigh?

Where can I get some hubcentric cheap 5mm spacers for my stock wheels for now?

My wheel plan is to use whatever wider than 8'' wheels I end up buying for dry autox, stock wheels with full tread rt215 azenis or when they are not available something else for wet. Sell my extra set of stock wheels unless you think its worth having a third set of ST tires on hand. Use my rotas with Nokian WR's for the winter.

Thanks for the help

The nice thing about the 5x114 is that you can find wheels that are cheap, light and strong.

The FNO1Cs are ~$190 a piece and wiegh 17 lbs for the 17x9s. Enkie shows the 17x9.5s at 20 lbs but lists the 18x9.5s at 19lbs :huh: They show the RPFs at 16 in the 17x9 or 9.5. Both teh enkies are 200-250 a piece at Gruppe-S.

The 5zigens GN+ cost just a little more than the FN01Cs.
WedsSport has a few wide EVO / Sylvia wheels too that are <$300 and pretty light.

Given the above, I don't see how a purely sports oriented 05 owner (all go no show) would buy $400 SSRs or Volks. Its like a monkey f***n' a football.... just don't make sense.

Discount sells some MB Motorsports 17x8s ET43 for 120 apiece, at that price I really don't give a rats ass what they weigh. I will probably pick some up for street and rain.
Rumor has it that they will clear the brembos; my local Discount said they will return them if they don't.

Yeah I figured you had to be planning all the wheel options available before going through the 04 to 05 hub swap. I am definently glad that when I graduated college the 05s had just come out.

I will check out the Wedsport stuff too they are selling the SA-90s on evolutionm.net and according to the seller they weigh ~20lbs in 17x9 +35!

The biggest problem is knowing where to look for wheels. Through nasioc they push all the wrx wheels and nothing at all in 17x9+ 5x114 and over at evom they dont go higher than +35. So its like you have to call everyone and ask if they have x wheel in +40-45 and how much it weighs. I really wish that the wheelweights.net site was still being updated regularly. I hate going on manufacturer weights especially when they are obviously not right as your example of 18s weighing more than 17s.

I did not want to spend 400+ a wheel but was willing to if they were significantly lighter and available in the right size. I am glad you think they are not neccessary as so many people think so.

Thanks for the help and let me know if you know who sells the wedsports and Tom let me know if you know anything more about the rpf1's options.

Nate

A question about contact patch

On my supra I have 8.5 in rimes up front and 9.5 rims in the back.
Stock the car has 245 or 235 up front and 255s in the back.
I currently run 255 up front and 275 in the back.
I looked at running 275s on my 8.5 in rim a few years ago but was told by knowledgeable people that I would actually get a bigger or at least the same contact patch out of the 255 in front because of the tire roll that happens when your rim is too small. I was also told that it could also cause side to side flex.

So has anyone actually tested to see if the contact patch is bigger with a 275 on an 8in rim than a 255 at the same PSI?

I am not an expert on this stuff just going of info about a different car, maybe the increased side wall stiffness of a race tire makes a 275 work on a 8in rim?

A question about contact patch

On my supra I have 8.5 in rimes up front and 9.5 rims in the back.
Stock the car has 245 or 235 up front and 255s in the back.
I currently run 255 up front and 275 in the back.
I looked at running 275s on my 8.5 in rim a few years ago but was told by knowledgeable people that I would actually get a bigger or at least the same contact patch out of the 255 in front because of the tire roll that happens when your rim is too small. I was also told that it could also cause side to side flex.

So has anyone actually tested to see if the contact patch is bigger with a 275 on an 8in rim than a 255 at the same PSI?

I am not an expert on this stuff just going of info about a different car, maybe the increased side wall stiffness of a race tire makes a 275 work on a 8in rim?



Well, my experience is going from a 255/40 victo on a 8 inch wheel to a 275/40 v710 on a 8 inch wheel. The contact patch was indeed larger (about 1/2 inch larger) with the 275 tire at similar pressures. That being I can run the v710's at a lower pressure than the victoracers.

Also, static contact patch is never the whole story. Tire roll, side wall design, pressure and of course driver style and application will all govern how much tire is too much.

On a skid pad a 255 may work better but peak grip may fall off a lot quicker than a 275. Turn-in maybe crisper with a 255 but a 275 may come off a corner better and should certainly out brake a 255. And of course there is added weight....

If your in doubt, buy a 255 just because it is cheaper. Once you have pushed the 255 as far as it can go (both as a driver and with car setup) then jump to a 275.

FYI, one of the formula student teams this year found a company in the US that can supply pressure colorizing paper, it turnes black with pressure. It's pricey at $15/sheet. Park the tire on the paper for 30 seconds and you get a picture of your static contact patch. The more presure the darker the coloring. I forget the company name, Racecar Engineering magazine has an article on it in this months issue.

Note; getting it to fit is the easy part. Utilizing a tire that is ~30% larger than stock may be much harder. Proper suspension setup as well as driving will be needed to make the most of a wide tire; other wise your just paying more for wider rubber.

http://www.irs.co.jp/oversea/index.htm can supply them. They have reasonable prices and shipping isn't too bad either. Nobody in the US sells them. Too bad the current exchange rate sucks.
I'm curious as to what you consider reasonable shipping?
I've never ordered from Japan before and the numbers seem rather large. I need a point of reference.

Thanks,
Dustin

i figured i would ask this here.... well i have used 05 bbs wheels shipping here now (no tires)

So i will have gold bbs's with the re070's on em, the silver bbs's with my winter tires on them... then when the next season of solo2 starts i wont to run r-comps... im just going to take the winter tires off the silver bbs's and mount the r-comps on those, then switch back in the winter.

My question is: Is mounting and remounting to switch between the winter tires and r-comps (sharing the same set of wheels) one time in the beginning of winter then at the end "bad" for the tires or wheel... im just try to be caucious.

Also, should i get another set of lugnuts for any reason or just use the stockers for both the sets?



thanks for helping me with my noobie questions ;)

i figured i would ask this here.... well i have used 05 bbs wheels shipping here now (no tires)

So i will have gold bbs's with the re070's on em, the silver bbs's with my winter tires on them... then when the next season of solo2 starts i wont to run r-comps... im just going to take the winter tires off the silver bbs's and mount the r-comps on those, then switch back in the winter.

My question is: Is mounting and remounting to switch between the winter tires and r-comps (sharing the same set of wheels) one time in the beginning of winter then at the end "bad" for the tires or wheel... im just try to be caucious.

Also, should i get another set of lugnuts for any reason or just use the stockers for both the sets?



thanks for helping me with my noobie questions ;)

I can't imagine that there'd be any huge issues with doing the tire swapping... outside of just finding a good tire shop that won't ding up your rims. I'd bet that there's folks on here who swap tires more often than 2x a year anyway.

I likewise can't think of why the stock lugnuts would be unsuitable... should be fine as well. They have the appropriate 'face' on them for the BBS rims.. which have a much smaller 'seat' for the lugnuts than typical aftermarket rims. To me, they appear to be a matched setup and as such, I'd stick with that. Only caveat I'll say is to check with your local rules/officials to make sure they don't require open-ended lugs or something. I doubt it, but it's wise to check beforehand.

I run a set of Rota Torques for autox on my STi and have a 2nd set of lugnuts for those primarily b/c of the difference between the conical seats for the two sets of rims (bbs and rotas): the rotas require a lugnut with a much wider face on it. The stock acorn lugnuts, if used on the rotas, would dig in most likely.

But, I would never hesitate to run my stock lugnuts on my stock rims for the street, and of course to race so long as the rules are o.k. with it.

I have two sets of stock rims and use the stock lugs with them both they work just fine and are easy to find if you need an extra one like them. I have a set of rotas for my winter tires and will be getting a fourth set of wheels for autox also but really I could have less sets of wheels but I like being to able to use any of them and not have to remount tires depending on the season of course I also autox most of the winter so if it snows i use the winters, if it rains i will use the rains and if its dry i will the drys. But here the winters are mild enough to autox most of the time even if its cold outside and the local regions hold events rain shine or snow.

I would just pickup a set of the MB motorsport wheels that discount tire sells for 120 each as mentioned by javid or get rotas and use those in the winter. That way your able to abuse the winter set and not worry about bending an expensive to get individually stock wheel.

Nate

(http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=54304)javid (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=54304)
Scooby Specialist

Member#: 54304
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Atlanta

04.5 STI
White on Bronze

(http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=54304)

^^^^^^I guess the new hubs advance your model year?:lol: Just saw that.

Thanks for everyone's 0.02 in this thread. I hope people can search this thread out when they have more questions.

Justin

Well we finally got to race this settup yesterday and verified that there was zero rubbing. Here are the stats:

2002 WRX, Fenders have not been rolled
Rota Slipstream 17x8.5, 48 offset
D2 Racing coilovers, 9k front, 10 k rear
15mm longer wheel studs all the way around
3mm spacer front
10mm spacer rear
Ride height from hub center to fender: 13.75 front, 14.5 rear.
275 40-17 Kumho V710

The rear ride actually could be dropped a half inch without problems.

There is a full fingers depth between the inside edge of the tire and the strut body in the rear. I could probably drop to a 5mm spacer in the rear and still not have problems. I actually don't even need the 3mm spacer in the front for clearance, but the tire will actually lightly scrub the inner fender liner at lock under cornering without the 3mm spacers.

(http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=54304)

^^^^^^I guess the new hubs advance your model year?:lol: Just saw that.



Yeah but only by 6 months :lol:
Way I figure the 05 had a lot changed but the only things that mattered were the front hubs and the front diff. ;) Since I only changed half of the important 05 parts I end up with a 2004.5 STi.

Kent, I assume by race you mean AutoX? If so you or others may still get rubbing at a DE where you are loading the rear tire more... Then again you would probably run more camber in the rear on track which would move the tire away from the fender....

TreyS was rubbing (nothing serious, just scuffing the side of the tire) on his 04 STi in the dry at Barber with 7k/5k, sways, rota torques 17x8, and Pirelli Corsa 235/45s.... Not sure on the alignment.

Side question: what is your take on the handling changes with a staggered F/R track or is it not noticeable with just 3/4" differance?

Javid

Anybody else looking for 5x100 17x9s?
The best solution I've found so far is the Enkei ES-Tarmac. At ~$225ea. they are very reasonably priced. Unfortunately the shipping from Japan is pretty pricey for a single set. If I were buying multiples it wouldn't be that bad.

Anybody have suggestions on similar wheels available domestically?

Thanks,
Dustin

Never gonna happen as they AWD cars are clear overdogs as is right now :)

On the 05 I wouldn't even think about anything other then a 17x9 43 offset.

-Tom



clear overdogs?
The M3 was right there at nationals. =)


M3's set fastest time both days, Brian Hanchey on the north course and Mike Neary on the south course. Both times they were significantly faster. I don't think the STi is an over dog. Frankly I think we have a race here. Looking forward to seeing what the RX-8's can do.

-Paul

Given the above, I don't see how a purely sports oriented 05 owner (all go no show) would buy $400 SSRs or Volks. Its like a monkey f***n' a football.... just don't make sense.



I have a good job and they weigh 15 lbs each. And I ain't no monkey, more like a 260 lb gorilla (so you know I need all the help I can get).

-Paul

Anybody else looking for 5x100 17x9s?
The best solution I've found so far is the Enkei ES-Tarmac. At ~$225ea. they are very reasonably priced. Unfortunately the shipping from Japan is pretty pricey for a single set. If I were buying multiples it wouldn't be that bad.

Anybody have suggestions on similar wheels available domestically?

Thanks,
Dustin

Volk CE28 have a 17x9 5x100, but they ain't cheap.

Not that I could afford them but I don't see a listing in 17x9 5x100

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/rays/forgedmonoblock.html

Thanks,
Dustin

Not that I could afford them but I don't see a listing in 17x9 5x100

http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/rays/forgedmonoblock.html

Thanks,
Dustin

Look again... http://www.mackinindustries.com/md/rays/Resources/ce28n_spec.jpg.gif

Thank you very much, i didn't find that combined size chart when i looked at the different CE28N listings. At an MSRP of $550 each I'd be very hard pressed to justify them though :(.

At an MSRP of $550 each I'd be very hard pressed to justify them though :(.

I'm with you on that one!

since you guys seem to be the smartest people to ask about this.

current setup
tanabe gf210 (05 rendition)
gramlights 57pro 17x9.0 et40
bfg kdwII 255/40/17

new tires on the way
rt615 275/40/17

i measured everything out but im second guessing myself. you guys think these tires will fit without spacers? I have about 7mm clearance in back where im closest to the struts. im not really worried about the fenders, only the strut clearance.

any help would be great

thanks

since you guys seem to be the smartest people to ask about this.

current setup
tanabe gf210 (05 rendition)
gramlights 57pro 17x9.0 et40
bfg kdwII 255/40/17

new tires on the way
rt615 275/40/17

i measured everything out but im second guessing myself. you guys think these tires will fit without spacers? I have about 7mm clearance in back where im closest to the struts. im not really worried about the fenders, only the strut clearance.

any help would be great

thanks

I think they will fit fine based on the other info provided in this thread.

yeah that was my thoughts and my motive for ordering, just thought i would ask the experts.

thanks

Kent, I assume by race you mean AutoX? If so you or others may still get rubbing at a DE where you are loading the rear tire more... Then again you would probably run more camber in the rear on track which would move the tire away from the fender....

TreyS was rubbing (nothing serious, just scuffing the side of the tire) on his 04 STi in the dry at Barber with 7k/5k, sways, rota torques 17x8, and Pirelli Corsa 235/45s.... Not sure on the alignment.

Side question: what is your take on the handling changes with a staggered F/R track or is it not noticeable with just 3/4" differance?

Javid

Javid, Yes it was autocross, but I could have added more negative camber in the rear and it would have been totally fine at a a track event. To be honest, I don't think it would rub currently at a track event though, but the rear is a little high, and I will probably drop it another half inch in the rear and a quarter in the front. I just started out with plenty of clearance and am going to work my way down, and as I mentioned, the fenders haven't even been rolled yet.

I think the D2 lower mount design which uses a slotted upper clevis bolt (plus the fact that I have 4 seperate points of camber adjustment in the rear) is what allows me to have so much clearance.

As far as the track difference front to rear, with the 3mm spacer on the front, and 10mm at the rear there is only a 7mm difference from stock track, and as I mentioned, I think I could probably get away with a 5mm spacer in the rear instead of the 10mm, that coupled with the fact that I have adjustable lateral links (although they are currently at stock length) and could shorten the track up in the back means that I am not personally concerned with it. If it turns out to be an issue, I can correct it, although I realize that not everyone can. All that being said, I didn't notice any issues Sunday, but we were just wanting to get the car out there after so long and the alignment was done by a very scientific method of "okay, the camber looks pretty close and god knows where the toe is...let's race." LOL
I will use a slightly more accurate 4 wheel alignment machine for the next time the car goes out, which looks unfortunately like it won't happen again until next season due to the fact that we are still having some engine woes. :(

"okay, the camber looks pretty close and god knows where the toe is...let's race."

Thats funny, I use the same shop ;) .

Hope your engine gets sorted out. :(

You guys spend close to 2 grand on coilover suspensions that are lucky to last 2 years and $550 wheels are too much :rolleyes: A forged race wheel isn't bling and it will last a lot longer than your suspension will last between rebuilds.

My coilovers make the car faster and easier to drive.

Forged wheels have a smaller benefit/cost ratio. ;) But they are bling....


Spend less go _____

You guys spend close to 2 grand on coilover suspensions that are lucky to last 2 years and $550 wheels are too much :rolleyes: A forged race wheel isn't bling and it will last a lot longer than your suspension will last between rebuilds.


Actually, the plan is to put a set of CCW 17x9.5 wheels on the car sometime next year.

Javid is correct though, the price of coilovers and their benefits versus the price of higher quality forged wheels and their benefits makes it obvious which way to go first. To be honest, the benefit of a forged wheel is pretty negligible anyway since you can buy 3 sets of Rotas for what I will spend on the CCWs, and if Rota made the slipstream an inch wider (or even 1/2 inch) I wouldn't even look at spending the money on the CCWs.

Forged wheels have a smaller benefit/cost ratio. I'll agree on this point. I don't know how a 17" rim that weighs ~13.5 lbs is bling - maybe the carbon fiber center cap :D

Back on topic;) For all of you gurus (and since Hoppe doesn't answer PMs) what you recommend as the best overall width and offset for an '03 WRX? I know what fits, but I'm looking for some feedback from guys who have tried several set-ups. 17x9 with around 40 offset?

When did you send me a PM?

I misspelled your guru tag...I suck at the int3rw3b:(

Tom already stated that the 17x9 5zigen FN-01R-C's fit the 05 STi in both +43 and +35 and they cost less than 200 each and according to javid weigh 17lbs. Show me any forged rim that fits and weighs 13.5 lbs in 17x9 not 17x7. Also if anyone can find out if the Enkei RPF1's fit in 17x9 +35 and 17x9.5 +38 these are ~250 a wheel and around 16lbs. Assuming a volk 550 each wheel is 15lbs in that size is one pound a wheel worth 1200 more for a set of 4? Also most of us need more than one set of wheels/tires so multiply the savings over a few sets too.

In autox high end suspension parts are wayy more important than how much your wheels weigh Tom didn't you win the STX national championship on rota's or something else affordable?

Nate

I was told the Enkeis did not fit as they were a 300Z rear wheel fitment and wouldn't clear the front Brembos. I never actually tried them as the 5Zigen was cheaper and about the same weight.

-Tom

Looks like a descent thread to ask this one....

In regards to using wheel spacers, when is it necessary to install longer wheel studs.

I have heard that once you can't get 7 full rotations of the lug, it's time to go with a longer stud.



True?



JB

I tried some 3mm wheel spacers that just got the 7 turns on the front so anything more than that would probably require longer studs.

I didn't make the statement about expensive wheels to spark a heated debate about them, or to attack anyone who chooses less expensive wheels. I made the statement because theere are number of guys that go out and buy "high-end" suspensions (myself included) but they scoff at "high-end" wheels. To each his own. Everyone has to choose how they spend their money :)

For what it's worth (and it's probably not a lot ;) ) my opinion is that the wheels are an integral part of the suspension equation, which becomes more important as wheels & tires get fatter. I also consider wheels to be a safety item. We are driving roughly 3,000 pound cars at high speeds - especially the HPDE guys. You can't convince me that a 17 pound cast 17x9 wheel is anywhere near as strong as a similar forged wheel. The consequences of failure at auto-x speeds are inconsequential when compared to track events.

Sorry for the hijack.

-JD

PS - a forged mag wheel in 17x9 is around 14#. I wouldn't want to guess the cost, but I'm looking into some :devil:

Looks like a descent thread to ask this one....

In regards to using wheel spacers, when is it necessary to install longer wheel studs.

I have heard that once you can't get 7 full rotations of the lug, it's time to go with a longer stud.



True?



JB


Ideally, you want as many millimeters of thread as the diameter of the bolt. In other words if our bolts are 12mm x 1.25 then you need 9.6 turns of the lugnut (9.6 x 1.25 = 12) and trust me on this one, you do NOT want to skimp on lugnut bite.

Unfortunately, no one just sells a 10 or 15mm longer stud kit for our cars. I ended up buying 2 complete Eibach 10mm spacer kits which had 15mm longer studs.

if everyone is going to massive tires and rims next year does anyone have any 15" x 7" or 8" rims to get rid of?

I am sceptical of the benefits of running such wide tires especially with my n/a wimpy engine but never the less, dont have the funds for such exotic rubber either. I wouldn't mind upgrading from my current setup of 205/50 x 15 on stock Outback rims (dont laugh) though. Looking at 225/50 x 15.

Anyone?

just wanted to repost to this to validate what i said.

gramlight 57pro et40 17x9.0 5x114.3
azenis 615 275/40/17

fit with no rubbing on the struts. would need mild fender rolling if auto-x alot, or very stiff springs.

Is there more hub to strut clearance on the 05 STi than the 04?

For what it's worth (and it's probably not a lot ) my opinion is that the wheels are an integral part of the suspension equation, which becomes more important as wheels & tires get fatter. I also consider wheels to be a safety item. We are driving roughly 3,000 pound cars at high speeds - especially the HPDE guys. You can't convince me that a 17 pound cast 17x9 wheel is anywhere near as strong as a similar forged wheel. The consequences of failure at auto-x speeds are inconsequential when compared to track events.


You left out the most important part, IMHO...

Wheels are also a WEAR item. Don't expect your more expensive lighter wheels to last any much longer than those that are cheaper, but heavier. Yes, they are a safety item also, but no wheel out there isn't prone to fatigue, failure, or damage if hitting objects.

If I'm prone to bending/breaking wheels, I'd rather pay $1.5K ea for a couple sets of good heavier wheels than $2K-$2.5K each set that will also bend/break at the same spot on course.

--kC

+1 for KC!

Unfortunately we know what happens when you don't check your lightweight race wheels for fatigue damage....
http://www.lersoc.com/modules/pnphpbb2/files/broke.jpg

wear and when did this happen?

(spelling mistake intentional)

Mid season last year at a local event. We found stress cracks on the rest of the wheels at every spoke. FWIW...they were older Revolutions....not even made anymore. I didn't know the age when I bought them....Revolution put them at around 15yrs :eek:

Luckily the front towhook and nut on the lower balljoint took the hit and left the rotor and other parts unharmed. A new fender and some paint was required from the wheel/tire exiting the car the way it did.

Jay Storm

Wheels are also a WEAR item. Don't expect your more expensive lighter wheels to last any much longer than those that are cheaper, but heavier. Yes, they are a safety item also, but no wheel out there isn't prone to fatigue, failure, or damage if hitting objects.

I agree. I certainly acknoledge that there is a point of diminishing returns.

If I'm prone to bending/breaking wheels, I'd rather pay $1.5K ea for a couple sets of good heavier wheels than $2K-$2.5K each set that will also bend/break at the same spot on course.

Didn't you have a set of Volks? :D

On the topic I have a couple of questions...
1. anyone done any custom suspension mount modification to enhance clearance in the rear of the GD series cars? I'm just curious - It is probably not worth it, since jumping to an 05+ gives you some additional clearance.

Since most of you guys feel that a few pounds per wheel isn't a big deal :p 2. ideas on wide 15", 16" or 18" shoes? I'm seeing more and more rubber showing up in the 18" range 35 or less aspect ratio...

3. Generally speaking, at a competition weight of +/- 3,000# there has to be a reasonable limit to width, since a tire has to be "narrow enough" to generate proper heat. What is the practical limit to width?

+1 for KC!

Unfortunately we know what happens when you don't check your lightweight race wheels for fatigue damage....


DOH! Holy crap, that sucks.

Well I got work too do for next year. Already working on how to fit a 275 or 285 front with a 245 rear. I am looking at 17"-18" Kodiaks. Well I better saving the pennies.
http://www.kodiakracingwheels.com/images/17inchrt-gold.jpg

I agree. I certainly acknoledge that there is a point of diminishing returns.



Didn't you have a set of Volks? :D

On the topic I have a couple of questions...
1. anyone done any custom suspension mount modification to enhance clearance in the rear of the GD series cars? I'm just curious - It is probably not worth it, since jumping to an 05+ gives you some additional clearance.

Since most of you guys feel that a few pounds per wheel isn't a big deal :p 2. ideas on wide 15", 16" or 18" shoes? I'm seeing more and more rubber showing up in the 18" range 35 or less aspect ratio...

3. Generally speaking, at a competition weight of +/- 3,000# there has to be a reasonable limit to width, since a tire has to be "narrow enough" to generate proper heat. What is the practical limit to width?


1. check out the the zzyzx motorsport coilovers that Joel's car stompy is using but basically in the classes that WRX's and STi's are competitive in you cannot change the suspension mounting points at all even ALK's are not legal in SP or ST.

2. for ESP Joel is using custom 18's with 285/30/18s most because its easier to fit a super wide tire that is shorter and this is the shortest size offered in 275+ in the Kumho V710. For STX/STU you can only run a 245 width tire and for STX you want the shortest tire available and that is either a 225/45/17, 235/40/17, 245/40/17 or 245/35/17 there are no shorter tires in 15,16 that are wide enough and 18s are not that short in this width. For STU we need taller tires to not have to shift to 3rd as much and 245/45/17 is the size of choice but 245/40/18 is about the same height and width but there is no point in getting heavier wheels that cost more in 18s to run the same effective tire size especially when the tires cost way more in 18'' sizes.

3. For ST 245 is below the practical limit, for SP/SM the short height of the 285/30/18s makes them easier to fit and V710s heat up easily so that is not really a problem.

Hey, im looking to get some R-comps, im want to get victoracers, which size victoracer do you guys think i should get?

245/45zr17
or
255/40zr17

you save like 10-15 bucks a tire getting the 245 over the 255, is there any value in having the 45 vs the 40 diameter?

Which should i get?

Oh and it seems like tirerack thinks i should get them heatcycled and shaved... are these steps totally necessary? Could i heatcycle them myself, but just putting the race wheel/tires for the first time and driving them around a bit, getting em some heat then going back home and taking them off and letting them cool? What about shaving?

I guess for those of you that have had experience with victoracers, maybe you could give me your recommendations wiht the heatcycle/shaving thing.

Thanks.

For your "fisher price my first R comps" don't bother with either the shaving or heat cycling the tires. When you first get them mounted, take them for a spirited drive on the highway including a few on/off ramps and let them sit for a few days.

-Tom

I'd go with the 255's over the 245's. And I didn't get either of my set's of victo's shaved. If it's your first time on R-comps this may help as they at least tend to make a little bit of noise until they are worn down and then they get pretty quiet. It helps I think to make the tires last a full season.

Plus full tread victo's are good in the rain as this just so happened to me when I got the tires.:lol:

J

and do what tom said.

get the 255 cause this is the "wide" thread. ;)

You can cycle a tire yourself. It will improve life. You need to bring them up to temp for a bit and then pull them and let em sit for at least a day, week is best (at least thats what the old Hoosier guy recommends, kumho may very).

Shaving depends on use. Rain = full or dry = shaved

"fisher price my first R comps"

-Tom

:lol: clever

:lol: clever
Yea, I stole that from you and you can't stop me lalalalalalala

stole?
its on loan, till you fix the robot then you got to come up wit yer own shiat ;)

Javid
~ who stole from Wu-Tang

ok, well thanks for the quick replies. And nice name for my first set of r-comps... ;)

Very Informative thread.

I've been looking into some 17x9s and the RPF1s looked like they would fit (offset wise) thanks Tom for finding out that they wont work.

I saw the 17x9 +43 5zigen's at the subie challenge in Gainesville (on Scooby South's car) and the fitment looked perfect, (alittle too extreme for the street though). Maybe some Syms Fenders and a little custom Rear Flare to tie it all together?

P.S. I have 255 RT615s on my Stock wheels on STi Pinks w/ minimal camber (less then 1.0 in the front) and I have no rubbing at all (even in Autocross)

Exactly. The 43 offset is perfect for a regular fender 05 STi. We got the 35 offset as we weren't sure, which also fits, and puts the tires just a tad wider out. Javid here on the boards bought those wheels from us, and he has the widebody chargespeed, so it works perfect for him. But yea, 275s on 43 offset 17x9s fit the 05 STi perfectly. IIRC, a 46 offset (max for AS class) also works as well.

-Tom

Rankink has the 275s on a set of 17x8s +48mm offset, once this Hurricane business is over with I'm going to try and see if he will let me test fit them on my car. i wonder if the 275s will rub since my car is lowered on the STi Pinks.

I would love to run 275s on the 17x9s but my suspension isn't very stiff. Has anyone put 275s on a jdm pinks equipped STi?

what will probably happen is I'll buy Rankink's old tires from FLchargeddubb and see if they fit (255/40 17s), and if there is room.....UPGRADE!!!

First things first, i need the wheels ;) any one selling a set of 5zigens 17x9 +43mm offset? :D

Rankink has the 275s on a set of 17x8s +48mm offset, once this Hurricane business is over with I'm going to try and see if he will let me test fit them on my car. i wonder if the 275s will rub since my car is lowered on the STi Pinks.

I would love to run 275s on the 17x9s but my suspension isn't very stiff. Has anyone put 275s on a jdm pinks equipped STi?

what will probably happen is I'll buy Rankink's old tires from FLchargeddubb and see if they fit (255/40 17s), and if there is room.....UPGRADE!!!

First things first, i need the wheels ;) any one selling a set of 5zigens 17x9 +43mm offset? :D


Whenever you want to try just let me know.

That's probably going to rub unless you run a super stiff coilover setup.

Very Informative thread.

I've been looking into some 17x9s and the RPF1s looked like they would fit (offset wise) thanks Tom for finding out that they wont work.

I saw the 17x9 +43 5zigen's at the subie challenge in Gainesville (on Scooby South's car) and the fitment looked perfect, (alittle too extreme for the street though). Maybe some Syms Fenders and a little custom Rear Flare to tie it all together?

P.S. I have 255 RT615s on my Stock wheels on STi Pinks w/ minimal camber (less then 1.0 in the front) and I have no rubbing at all (even in Autocross)

the 17x9's I have came off a 3rd Gen RX7 twin...Rubber was 245/40/17 hoosiers 10.75 in wide tread......now with 255/40/17 victoracers...(for local stuff)...I have heard rumors that Kuhmo is going to make a 255/40 V710...;)...
my suspension is dropped about 3/4 in over stock...so rubbing is not an issue here...Lower suspension might present a problem...as I cut a tire...into the sidewall at full compression( didn't hurt the tire..just barely got the edge where the tire makes the 90 from the sidewall to the surface area...in the rear...that was on Eibach Pro kit in the back...since then I put STi Pink Wagon Springs on the rear...and had no issues..:)

Bill

:confused:

1) take saw
2) cut fenders so the tire won't hit them
3) ??????
4) profit!

:)

-Tom


Wicked looking car, I love it!

my suspension is dropped about 3/4 in over stock...so rubbing is not an issue here...Lower suspension might present a problem...as I cut a tire...into the sidewall at full compression( didn't hurt the tire..just barely got the edge where the tire makes the 90 from the sidewall to the surface area...in the rear...that was on Eibach Pro kit in the back...since then I put STi Pink Wagon Springs on the rear...and had no issues..:)

Bill

Bill,

Do you remember how much camber you were running when the tire rubbed?

Some rear camber plates might help raise my car some and give me a little more camber in the back to help avoid some rubbing.

a 255/40 V710 would be ideal.

Bill,

Do you remember how much camber you were running when the tire rubbed?

Some rear camber plates might help raise my car some and give me a little more camber in the back to help avoid some rubbing.

a 255/40 V710 would be ideal.


When I had that setup...I had -2.1 out the rear...(Way to much)...plus the imfamous buttsag with the Eibachs....now its -1.3...and MUCH better...:)..
True about the camber...I opted not to put bolts or plates in...and did it with Rideheight...on the springs..hence why I went to the Wagon Springs..;)..Plus the additional spring rate..

Bill

I have an '05 STi that has Cusco Zero 2-R coilovers. I bought a set of Volk 18x8" GT-V's with a 46 mm offset. I haven't decided yet on tire brand or size but am leaning towards either a 235/40/18 or a 245/35/18. Is it possible to step up to a 255/35/18 with my set up without any cutting or rubbing issues? Also, would everything tuck in within the fenderwells? I don't mind raising the ride height a bit to allow for height clearance.

I would love to see a picture of an 05 with stock wheels and 275/40/17's in AS trim. I have read several posts saying it is possible but I would be more at ease with spending $900 if I could actually see it first

Anyone have such an animal?

From what I have read it seems they will fit an 05 with no modifications other than a 5mm spacer on the rear wheels. I am unclear as to whether new rear studs are required (seems some do some don't). So with the stock wheels and just a rear spacer I should not have any rubbing or have to wedge out my front clip.

Thanks for the help.
Eric

Eric,

I am running 5mm spacers and have no issues with the studs. As for a picture, I don't have any. I do know that there was an AS 05 STi with those 275/40's at Subaru Challenge and it was running "very very" close to my ESP trim STi on 255 victos. Your car would look so mean with those next year.....dooo....eeeet! :devil:

48 offset wheels also work w/o a spacer ;)

They fit, doooo it!

-Tom

I already have 2 sets of the stock wheels so I would prefer to use them. I am extra cautious as this is a daily use car. I don't need to be ripping my front clip off with massive tires. If it fits with something as minimal as a rear spacer I am all for trying it out.

I have read some bad things about spacers.... Like lugs coming loose, but I am willing to check lugs after each run.

Oh, and if I tell my wife I need another set of rims it will not be pretty in my house. :(

I wish I had a video of her reaction to me wanting 275 tires and a trailer to carry them.

I would love to see a picture of an 05 with stock wheels and 275/40/17's in AS trim. I have read several posts saying it is possible but I would be more at ease with spending $900 if I could actually see it first

Anyone have such an animal?

From what I have read it seems they will fit an 05 with no modifications other than a 5mm spacer on the rear wheels. I am unclear as to whether new rear studs are required (seems some do some don't). So with the stock wheels and just a rear spacer I should not have any rubbing or have to wedge out my front clip.

Thanks for the help.
Eric


275/40-17 V710's on a 05 STI. They are mounted on 17x8 Rota slipstreams with a 48 offset. No spacers needed, no rubbing and they cost less than the stockers.

EDIT - You can just bag all four tires and they will fit across the back seat of your car with no problems if you can't get a trailer.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/896075/website5.jpg

At one subaru challenge:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/896075/4949.jpg

^^^
Thats awsome. I have a 05 Silver STi with Gunmetal 17x8 Slips. But its lowered on pinks. What you think the chances are that they'd fit and not rub at track days???

I'm really wanting to try some wider tires. I have 245/40's on there right now and I'm sure 255/40's would fit but I have some 2.7 neg camber on the front so I'm concerned.

^^^
Thats awsome. I have a 05 Silver STi with Gunmetal 17x8 Slips. But its lowered on pinks. What you think the chances are that they'd fit and not rub at track days???

I'm really wanting to try some wider tires. I have 245/40's on there right now and I'm sure 255/40's would fit but I have some 2.7 neg camber on the front so I'm concerned.


The 255's will fit with the pinks on stock wheels. One of my friends has that setup on his 05 STi. No rubbing at all during autocross. The front is not your problem, the back is. As for 275's I don't know. We are going to test fit my race tires (275's) on his car, but I don't know when. You would have the space in the back withe rotas, but it might rub on the outside fender. As it is the 275's just barely miss the fender under full compression.

The 255's will fit with the pinks on stock wheels. One of my friends has that setup on his 05 STi. No rubbing at all during autocross. The front is not your problem, the back is. As for 275's I don't know. We are going to test fit my race tires (275's) on his car, but I don't know when. You would have the space in the back withe rotas, but it might rub on the outside fender. As it is the 275's just barely miss the fender under full compression.

What about if I rolled the fenders?

What about if I rolled the fenders?


Yeah, I think it might work if you do that. Not 100% though.

Do post what you find out pleeze! I'm not buying more tires till I figure this out.

The 255's will fit with the pinks on stock wheels. One of my friends has that setup on his 05 STi. No rubbing at all during autocross. The front is not your problem, the back is. As for 275's I don't know. We are going to test fit my race tires (275's) on his car, but I don't know when. You would have the space in the back withe rotas, but it might rub on the outside fender. As it is the 275's just barely miss the fender under full compression.

Kolin whenever you're ready to test fit those monster tires I am too :banana:

i am insterested in this configuration as well. i am on pinks and have -1.5 camber on the back... looking at 275's for the spring..

Damn all you STI guys. How about 245/40s on my regular ol' WRX on Eibach springs, 17x8 + 45 wheels, any rub to worry about?

Damn all you STI guys. How about 245/40s on my regular ol' WRX on Eibach springs, 17x8 + 45 wheels, any rub to worry about?
:huh: dude, you do realize the WRX and an STi are the same thing, right?

-Tom

Don't the STIs have different rear fender flares or...?

/retarded.

05, yes, 04 its 100% the same. Still, the 05s are just "factory rolled". If you roll the 04s you pretty much have the same clearance as the 05 :)

-Tom

The 255's will fit with the pinks on stock wheels. One of my friends has that setup on his 05 STi. No rubbing at all during autocross. The front is not your problem, the back is. As for 275's I don't know. We are going to test fit my race tires (275's) on his car, but I don't know when. You would have the space in the back withe rotas, but it might rub on the outside fender. As it is the 275's just barely miss the fender under full compression.

i dont suppose you ever got around to test fitting on your friends car with pinks? also, do you have any close up pictures of the 275's mounted? rear and front?

thanks

Maybe a stupid question, but I would to know if the tire wear is slightly different, really different or identical on a 225, 245 or 275 size tires considering an STI (05 in my case) running in AS (not much camber) with V710 for example. Any comments or experiences are welcome.
Thanks in advance.

Francois

i dont suppose you ever got around to test fitting on your friends car with pinks? also, do you have any close up pictures of the 275's mounted? rear and front?

thanks


we are test fitting after the event on Sunday :banana: (unless it rains).

I'll take pics

we are test fitting after the event on Sunday :banana: (unless it rains).

I'll take pics


If everything goes alright we will test fit my 275's after the event Sunday on wrx8xb with the pinks and such. I will make sure to take pics of his car and mine (stock AS car) with the 275's on it.

Maybe a stupid question, but I would to know if the tire wear is slightly different, really different or identical on a 225, 245 or 275 size tires considering an STI (05 in my case) running in AS (not much camber) with V710 for example. Any comments or experiences are welcome.
Thanks in advance.

Francois

With the 275's on a 8 inch wide the tire is going to balloon more, but I have found that the wear it is still very flat across the tire with the outside of course going quicker. The v710's we run at lower pressures to get a better contact patch and they are made for more camber challenged cars like ours. My direct expreience is with 255's on the same setup and the outside will always wear quicker on both, but then we just flip them on the rim and even it out.

Thanks a lot for the info. Anyone else. trhoppe, draken...?

I don't have experience with the 275s on 8 inch rims on a stock camber vehicle. I had oodles of camber, so my wear was even.

Chris H.

Hoppe: i miss your smile

we are test fitting after the event on Sunday :banana: (unless it rains).


I'll take pics

I really live where it sucks. You can quote me on that. It's winter and there are people out there enjoying autocross in December. :furious:

:rolleyes:

I really live where it sucks. You can quote me on that. It's winter and there are people out there enjoying autocross in December. :furious:

:rolleyes:


Yep, we get to play all year long... Only thing down here in S. Florida is that during the summer the heat and humidity make you sweat off about 10 pounds each event.

If everything goes alright we will test fit my 275's after the event Sunday on wrx8xb with the pinks and such. I will make sure to take pics of his car and mine (stock AS car) with the 275's on it.

some of us are anxiously awaiting your results... so... were there any?

Ok,

On Saturday we put on a set of 17x8.5 +48mm Rota Sliptreams w/ 255/40 17 Victoracers on my STi Pink Springs equiped MY05 STi.

the front is AOK no problems,

the rear is ok, too close for my comfort but Andrei (WRBlueSTi) seemed to be ok with it. I also have very little camber in the rear -.4 or something like that. If I had a little more camber I wouldn't be worried.

As every STi Pink springs owner knows, the rear sits rather low. Underfull compression IF the tire were to stick out past the fender i'd suspect rubbing (didn't get a chance to witness full compression on Andrei's wheels).

The 275 V710s on the 17x8 +48mm offset Rota Slipstream never got put on my car b/c I thought they would stick out from the rear fenders too much. NOTE: these are greater then 20mm larger then the Victos (255).

I have no rear camber adjustability, otherwise i would increase it and see if we could get the 710s to clear underfull compression.

I'm not saying this is impossible to fit V710s on an STi Pink Spring equiped car, but it will require more then stock camber.

Now I got my self curious again to see if these will indeed fit. The first week of January we have an event Saturday which is a Test/Tune, maybe I can convince Rankink to put his wheels on my car and take it for a spin to see if it indeed does rub.

WRX8XB,
what are your thoughts of maybe adding camber plates that will raise the car a little, then dial in some more neg. camber?

WRX8XB,
what are your thoughts of maybe adding camber plates that will raise the car a little, then dial in some more neg. camber?


i have -1.5 rear camber without plates. take it to a really good performance alignment shop, they will make it happen.

i have -3 front with cusco plates and -1.5 rear without anything.. he said the rears weren't even that hard.. just a little tweaking. the fronts were harder, but doable. the guy even asks how much you weigh to factor that into the alignments.

i have -1.5 rear camber without plates. take it to a really good performance alignment shop, they will make it happen.

i have -3 front with cusco plates and -1.5 rear without anything.. he said the rears weren't even that hard.. just a little tweaking. the fronts were harder, but doable. the guy even asks how much you weigh to factor that into the alignments.
yea, i'm sure its doable, but here in good 'ol iowa, i don't have any shops like that, my fathers shop, the best they could get was right around 0.0 or a little less. but i figure since we hurt more on the rear for clearance, this would help, as raising the car would make for less chance of rubbing combined with the neg. camber.

WRX8XB,
what are your thoughts of maybe adding camber plates that will raise the car a little, then dial in some more neg. camber?

I was thinking of doing this. It should help. another plus side Gruppe-s has some of the cusco rear plates.

I was thinking of getting the RCE camber plates for the front as they don't raise the front, but now that i think about it alittle it wouldn't be terrible to raise the front a hair.

Cusco Camber plates front and rear...hmm.

I think with that 1.5 degrees, you're more then ok to run the 255 victos on 8.5" wheels with a +48mm offset. any higher offset you should be ok too assuming it isn't more then +52mm or so. Any lower i'm not sure.

As every STi Pink springs owner knows, the rear sits rather low. Underfull compression IF the tire were to stick out past the fender i'd suspect rubbing (didn't get a chance to witness full compression on Andrei's wheels).You're not joking. Here is a picture of my 2004 STi with pink springs, 255/40-17 Victoracers on 17x8.5 SSR Competition wheels. Click for bigger photo:

http://i.pbase.com/g3/23/21623/2/53611148.402_dana_sti.jpg (http://i.pbase.com/o4/23/21623/1/53611148.402_dana_sti.jpg)

I've got the rear fenders pulled out a huge amount, and you can see how the tire is still well inside the wheel-well -- there's no way in heck that I could have tires sticking outside of the fenders with these springs. This probably isn't even full compression, as I have photos of it with more lean. Still, the theory is that 275 V710's will fit with stiffer springs and a higher ride height, but they're still going to be tucked inside the well under hard cornering.

I was thinking of doing this. It should help. another plus side Gruppe-s has some of the cusco rear plates.

I was thinking of getting the RCE camber plates for the front as they don't raise the front, but now that i think about it alittle it wouldn't be terrible to raise the front a hair.

Cusco Camber plates front and rear...hmm.

I think with that 1.5 degrees, you're more then ok to run the 255 victos on 8.5" wheels with a +48mm offset. any higher offset you should be ok too assuming it isn't more then +52mm or so. Any lower i'm not sure.

sounds good, i'm researching on the cuscos as well, you might remember our discussion as to what i'm trying to do for my wheels, so i figure a 255 minimum, with little to no drop (camber plates to raise the car) stiffer spring rates than stock along with around a +43 offset, might work, or hopefully considering i will probably just do this next year and find out the hard way.

I want to run 17x9 +43s and I don't think I'll be comfortable running those and 275s with out some coilovers to stiffen things up.

I may also just run some 255 victos on a set of stock bbs (17x8 +53mm) wheels.

that would be cheaper then buying new wheels, and coilovers.

I've got the rear fenders pulled out a huge amount

has anyone pulled the fenders on a MY05 STi?

you'd probably have to lose that "wide fender" :lol:

I want to run 17x9 +43s and I don't think I'll be comfortable running those and 275s with out some coilovers to stiffen things up.

I may also just run some 255 victos on a set of stock bbs (17x8 +53mm) wheels.

that would be cheaper then buying new wheels, and coilovers.

Go with the V710's (trust me) They will rock compared to the Victo's. I guess it depends on your budget.

J

would 245 series V710s out perform 255 Victos?

are the 245s narrower (actual width on an 8" or 8.5" wheel) on the 245 V710s compared to the 255 Victos?

If they are narrower and better, they would probably be the best option for my current situation. But I doubt Narrower and Better go in the same sentence, (when talking about race tires on correct or near correct size wheels)

Thanks so much for the update! :alien:

would 245 series V710s out perform 255 Victos?

are the 245s narrower (actual width on an 8" or 8.5" wheel) on the 245 V710s compared to the 255 Victos?

If they are narrower and better, they would probably be the best option for my current situation. But I doubt Narrower and Better go in the same sentence, (when talking about race tires on correct or near correct size wheels)

I don't know about width, but I've run the 255 victos and I think you'd be happier with the 245 710's

Lets see here.

Victo 245/45 17 (same height as the 275/40 17) has a 9.7" section width and a 9.1" Tread width on an 8" wheel

V710 245/45 17 9.6" SW and 9.4" TW on an 8" wheel

Victo 255/40 17 has a SW of 10.6" and a TW of 9.7 on a 9" wheel.
assuming you can subtract .2" per .5" of wheel width smaller then measure section width. (i think that is right not 100%). on a 8" wheel the SW 10.2" and the TW 9.3"

so i'd be getting a better tire, that's taller (could cause issues), and similar widths.

Feel free to correct my math if i was wrong.

I'd love a 255 V710, based on the other models the section width would be less then the Victo which would be nice.

of course a really big bucket of $100 bills would fix all of this.....

[...]But I doubt Narrower and Better go in the same sentence, (when talking about race tires on correct or near correct size wheels)Usually true with everything else equal. But everything else is most definitely not equal here. The V710 is, as of a few months ago, the premier DOT autocross tire. The Victoracer has been the budget DOT true-autocross choice for quite a few years -- it's a great tire but it doesn't have the fastest times. With the small difference in size we're talking about here (255 vs. 245) the compound difference is going to dominate by a big margin. That's even assuming that the V710 is actually narrower.

To give you an idea, when I was in Wendover for the Pro Solo with the above 255/40-17 tires on my car, I had a few people stop by while in grid, look at the car, look at the tires, then give me a funny look as they asked "Victoracers? What happened to your real tires?" They were quite serious. Victos do have the advantage of long life and good consistency, and my budget last year called for low cost and less than 275 size.

Usually true with everything else equal. But everything else is most definitely not equal here. The V710 is, as of a few months ago, the premier DOT autocross tire. The Victoracer has been the budget DOT true-autocross choice for quite a few years -- it's a great tire but it doesn't have the fastest times. With the small difference in size we're talking about here (255 vs. 245) the compound difference is going to dominate by a big margin. That's even assuming that the V710 is actually narrower.

To give you an idea, when I was in Wendover for the Pro Solo with the above 255/40-17 tires on my car, I had a few people stop by while in grid, look at the car, look at the tires, then give me a funny look as they asked "Victoracers? What happened to your real tires?" They were quite serious. Victos do have the advantage of long life and good consistency, and my budget last year called for low cost and less than 275 size.

I felt the same way at nationals in Toledo.

I've ran the 255 Victos and 245 V710's on the stock 7.5" BBS wheels and the V710's were a night and day difference than the Victos. I actually had to spend a couple events adjusting my suspension and camber for the WAY STICKIER tires.

Then I put the Strano Bar on and had to do it all over again :p

This Strano bar is popping up everywhere!!

when you ran the 245s V710s were you lowered at all?

Yes. I think I'm sitting around 13.5" in the rear and 14" in the front for the gap between the center of the wheel and the bottom of the fender.

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Easy way to see how that big wheel is going to sit in your wheelwell compared to your current wheel. But shoving a 275 tire on that wheel is a different story :p

so, in summary...

on an 05 sti,

255 width tires fit:
48mm offset 17x8 wheels on a car with any suspension (stock, aftermarket, or stock struts+pink springs)
53mm offset 17x8 wheels (stock) on a car with any suspension (stock, aftermarket, or stock struts+pink springs)

275 width tires fit:
48mm offset 17x8 wheels on a car with stock struts+springs or stiff aftermarket suspension
53mm offset 17x8 wheels (stock) w/ 5mm spacer with stock struts+springs or stiff aftermarket suspension

this is all true, right? having pinks with 275 width tires won't work cause of clearance in the rears?

It hasn't been proven yet. Hopefully in early January I'll be able to put them on and see for sure. I doubt they will fit though.

and 255s with 48mm offset need more then .5 degrees of camber to clear easily in the rear.

Javid,

If I put 17X9" +35 wheels on the car with 275/40 V710's your saying I should have rear camber plates in addition to my rear camber bolts.

In which case would the cusco rear camber plates work with the JIC coil-overs? I would imagine they would work because the thread is the same at the top of the strut rod.

Thanks,
Justin

ok let me ask a question. I see a lot of the 05 guys doing nicely with big tires. Tell me what you guys think will fit for race tires.

2002 wrx sedan
kyb shocks RSR springs (quite low in the rear)
-2.5 camber F
-1.5 camber R
17X8 Rota

Toyo RA-1 - at what size tire do i have to roll fenders or do big changes. i was thinking a 255 would work out okay with a slight roll in the back. Anyone know for sure? Would lap times be quicker with an even wider RA-1? Is it possible with just rolling fenders a bit?

-Paddy

ok let me ask a question. I see a lot of the 05 guys doing nicely with big tires. Tell me what you guys think will fit for race tires.

2002 wrx sedan
kyb shocks RSR springs (quite low in the rear)
-2.5 camber F
-1.5 camber R
17X8 Rota

Toyo RA-1 - at what size tire do i have to roll fenders or do big changes. i was thinking a 255 would work out okay with a slight roll in the back. Anyone know for sure? Would lap times be quicker with an even wider RA-1? Is it possible with just rolling fenders a bit?

-Paddy

Paddy,
I ran the RA-1s in 235/40 on 17x8 this year on my 02 wagon with the rear fender rolled. It barely cleared the strut and the wheel well. I was on v7 struts and pinks. Id say there was ~3-5mm clearance on both sides.

I think we tried to put Keith's 245 Hoosiers with the SSR's on JP's car and they rubbed pretty bad.

ok let me ask a question. I see a lot of the 05 guys doing nicely with big tires. Tell me what you guys think will fit for race tires.

2002 wrx sedan
kyb shocks RSR springs (quite low in the rear)
-2.5 camber F
-1.5 camber R
17X8 Rota

Toyo RA-1 - at what size tire do i have to roll fenders or do big changes. i was thinking a 255 would work out okay with a slight roll in the back. Anyone know for sure? Would lap times be quicker with an even wider RA-1? Is it possible with just rolling fenders a bit?

-Paddy

Holy crap, did you read any of this thread?

ok let me ask a question. I see a lot of the 05 guys doing nicely with big tires. Tell me what you guys think will fit for race tires.

2002 wrx sedan
kyb shocks RSR springs (quite low in the rear)
-2.5 camber F
-1.5 camber R
17X8 Rota

Toyo RA-1 - at what size tire do i have to roll fenders or do big changes. i was thinking a 255 would work out okay with a slight roll in the back. Anyone know for sure? Would lap times be quicker with an even wider RA-1? Is it possible with just rolling fenders a bit?

-Paddy


Paddy,
I ran the RA-1s in 235/40 on 17x8 this year on my 02 wagon with the rear fender rolled. It barely cleared the strut and the wheel well. I was on v7 struts and pinks. Id say there was ~3-5mm clearance on both sides.

I think we tried to put Keith's 245 Hoosiers with the SSR's on JP's car and they rubbed pretty bad.


After reading these two posts I have become severely depressed that apparently neither one of these posters even bothered to read the thread AT ALL before they posted. There are numerous examples of people using 255 and wider tires succesfully and explaining how to make them fit. The second guy apparently doesn't realize that wagons don't have as much room, and also, Makafoto HAS been running 245 Hoosiers on his wagon for some time with no issues.

Reading is fundamental people!!! :furious: :furious:

Geez, I was going to reply with a helpful link, but noticed that douchemonster deleted my oilcovers thread :furious:

-Tom

After reading these two posts I have become severely depressed that apparently neither one of these posters even bothered to read the thread AT ALL before they posted. There are numerous examples of people using 255 and wider tires succesfully and explaining how to make them fit. The second guy apparently doesn't realize that wagons don't have as much room, and also, Makafoto HAS been running 245 Hoosiers on his wagon for some time with no issues.

Reading is fundamental people!!! :furious: :furious:

Go ahead and flame on.. some of us are trying to be more helpful to other co-racers than worried about being repetative. I have read the entire thread, and there is a load of good information here based on everyone's experience. I am simply contributing my experiences to the mix.

If you want a little background, I had run my wagon for 2 years on various northeast tracks from NHIS, Lime Rock, WGI, to MOSPORT with a specific setup that worked for me. Many of us run subarus of various setups and not all combinations of tires/wheels/suspension work for all cars for varying level of reliability and safety. There are certainly some things I dont want to risk when going 140 into the bus stop at WGI.

Geez, I was going to reply with a helpful link, but noticed that douchemonster deleted my oilcovers thread :furious:

-Tom


Say it ain't so! Not the oilcovers thread!

let me say this i guess, in my defense. And thanks zip for the usefull info. ( i think your just tryin to get me to buy your spares tho :p ) The info is scattered throughout this threat like an goddamn yard sale. i have read the thread. twice now. i think very few will disagree that suspension, space and clearance changes with , alignment (most notably camber), type of strut/coilover, wheel width, offset etc. needless to say there are a few variables "crystalhelix." The VAST majority posting in the thread are '05 STi owners. I have an '02.

There is definatly some wrong information in this thread - if not wrong then very unclear. As i have seen wide tire fitment issues with my own two eyes. For example 245 hoosiers rubbing on a sedan. Is it so wild a thought to think 255's won't fit this particular setup with these suspension configurations. I think not. And if there is even a shred of doubt - it doesn't matter because i just don't care. If someone has had success with the same or very similar suspension setup and tires a simple "it will work if you do x and x" will suffice.

-Paddy

For example 245 hoosiers rubbing on a sedan. Then whoever ran that was retarded.

-Tom

Then whoever ran that was retarded.

-Tom

Speaking of your mom, say hi to her on xmas for me.

:hugs:

Chris H.

needless to say there are a few variables "crystalhelix."

Sorry, I am just disgruntled from reading the EM forum, lol, no harm intended...

so, in summary...

on an 05 sti,

255 width tires fit:
48mm offset 17x8 wheels on a car with any suspension (stock, aftermarket, or stock struts+pink springs)
53mm offset 17x8 wheels (stock) on a car with any suspension (stock, aftermarket, or stock struts+pink springs)

275 width tires fit:
48mm offset 17x8 wheels on a car with stock struts+springs or stiff aftermarket suspension
53mm offset 17x8 wheels (stock) w/ 5mm spacer with stock struts+springs or stiff aftermarket suspension

this is all true, right? having pinks with 275 width tires won't work cause of clearance in the rears?

Great information everyone. This is a great post.

My question is, does anyone have the above info for 17x8.5 wheels? Im guessing that +50 to +48 would be ideal in terms of the correct offset to prevent rubbing with stock camber settings and JDM STi Pink springs.
Right now that leaves the Advan RG2's and hopefully the SSR Comps when they finally come back out for us 05 STi guys and maybe a few others.
I just want to make sure I have no probs when I go ahead and get what ever wheel and 255/40/17 tire I plan to get.

Ease

Just to throw my info into the mix:

18x8.5 +52 offset Volk LE-28N rims with Pirelli PZero Nero M+S in 255/35/18 fits fine with completely stock suspension.

If it were lowered until the underbody touched the ground (obviously not something you would do), the rears would have a very little amount of space before rubbing, but the fronts would clear easily. I can get pics of the spacing if anyone needs/wants em for comparison.

Ok, I think I am just going to use street tires again next season for Astock (I am noobie, I think I will learn more on street tires) Ok so my stock re070's are going quick, the rears are messed up from having toe out, and the tire is kinda capped in the middle from the belts I suppose. The fronts outside edge is eaten away too but overall the fronts are in better shape than the rear.

I wonder how much life is left in them, I am tempted to buy a set of rt615's that are on sale at the edge racing. Well my question is, would you buy the 245/45 17's for $117 or get the 255/40 17's for $131 ? Also is there an advantage or disadvantage to the 40/45 sidewall? Anyway, thanks for reading! These will be mounted on the stock wheel and its an 05 STi. BTW, how does the rt615 compare to the re070 as far as life? I would assume its similar. Does the rt615 perform similar on a roadcourse compared to the re070's? Thanks!

bfarm - please post picks. That's the wheels i'm looking to go with for my daily driver wheels, but I would think that offset would be to high. I'm also lowered a little bit.

would you buy the 245/45 17's for $117 or get the 255/40 17's for $131 ? Also is there an advantage or disadvantage to the 40/45 sidewall? Anyway, thanks for reading! These will be mounted on the stock wheel and its an 05 STi. BTW, how does the rt615 compare to the re070 as far as life? I would assume its similar. Does the rt615 perform similar on a roadcourse compared to the re070's? Thanks!

fwiw, i just ordered the 255/40/17 rt615's for my 05 sti.

245/45 will give you about a quarter of an inch extra sidewall than the 255/40. so your gearing will be taller. depending on your course construction, this may actually be a benefit, as i found myself hitting the rev limiter in 2ng gear quite often on our courses.

fwiw, i just ordered the 255/40/17 rt615's for my 05 sti.


I ordered 255/40/17 Kumho MX's for mine day b4 yesterday. I'll post back if they fit OK. I'm running aggressive camber with Pinks.

i think I will go for the 255/40/17 because this should grip better.... dont you think its the better choice? is the only benefit of the 245/45/17 just taller gearing?

i think I will go for the 255/40/17 because this should grip better.... dont you think its the better choice? is the only benefit of the 245/45/17 just taller gearing?
Yes just the gearing, everything else would be better on the 255/40. But if you think you may ever run STU instead of AS you may want to go with the 245/45s.

you wouldn't want to run AS with a street tire anyways, unless locally that's all you need, but vette's and S2k's will eat STi's alive without good r-comps IMHO.

Justin

Yeah, but I am just running in my local club for now, and I believe it would be a better idea to just use street tires and hold off on r-comps for a while until I improve. I wanna get good street tires and just learn more on them as my stock re070's are getting worn out quickly.

Cool, sounds good man.

I just purchased a set of 17x8.5 Volk Racing CE28N.

If I rolled my rear fenders, would I still run into problems using 17/40/275's?

Currrently using Tein Flex coilovers.. Thanks!

I just purchased a set of 17x8.5 Volk Racing CE28N.

If I rolled my rear fenders, would I still run into problems using 17/40/275's?

Currrently using Tein Flex coilovers.. Thanks!

What's the offset on those Volks?

offset's +44

IMO I am thinking strut interference w/o a spacer but I have coil-overs. +43(w/spacer) 8.5 wide wheel with 255's I have 3mm clearance so I think you may rub in the inside, maybe be fine with a 5mm spacer?

Thanks for the quick reply!

spacers aren't bad for autox, I don't know if I'd feel comfortable running them on the street all the time.

I am not sure if I responded to your PM on this.

One possibilty is to use both camber plates and bolts. I was planning to do this but gave up since the 9" 35ET are working fine. Right now I just have camber plates front and back and bolts up front.

The bolts have a big effect on wheel clearance with the coilover. When I worked though it I was pretty confident I could run a 275 on a 9.5 with ~45ET using both the plates and bolts. With just the plates in the rear (stock bolts) I can adjust from roughly -0.5 to -3.5. I don't think that the bolts will let you get more than +1.5 so you would still have up to -2 with the plates and bolts all the way out.

In a perfect world I would put my rear bolts back in and play/measure with them when I am on the rack this week end....

Edit: if you have bolts, run them all the way positive, put the 44et w/ 275 on lower car and measure. Then but the bolt at 12 o'clock and measure.

Does this mean I must have negative camber for the rear tires if I'm going for 275's?

No you would likely be able to adjust camber as low as -2 which should be plenty. You would adjust the bolt to to make as much positive camber as posible, this will move the top of the tire away from the strut by a good bit. Then you would use the camber plates to adjust back to a resonable overall camber 0 to -2 depending on what you do with the car.

See my edit in the first post about playing with this before buying plates.

FYI, Guppe-S seems to have finally restocked their supply of Cusco rear camber plates with work with JIC (I am certain) and Tien (to the best of my knowledge and belief).

Check the rules for your category before running both camber bolts and plates. Not all categories allow alternate adjustment at both ends, just top or bottom.

A stock win and 2nd in PAX in Las Vegas on nothing but Kumho V710's 274/40/17 on the stocker BBS's. 2005 and 2006 STI's
The sidewalls were squeezed a bit to fit them on the stock wheels, but that actually improved the shoulder treadwear.
NEVER RUBBED, no rolling fenders, no suspension mods, nothing!

Check the rules for your category before running both camber bolts and plates. Not all categories allow alternate adjustment at both ends, just top or bottom.

Good point; for limited modification, use the plates.

Plates would be safer to add clearance than using a smaller aftermarket camber bolt IMHO.

Good point; for limited modification, use the plates.
Can you give me an example of a category where you could do either but not both? I know that is stock classes, plates are out of the question and 'crash' bolts are allowed... but from there you have Street Touring and Street Prepared which allow both. Are there any other classes that actually have restrictions against plates than stock class.

Can you give me an example of a category where you could do either but not both? I know that is stock classes, plates are out of the question and 'crash' bolts are allowed... but from there you have Street Touring and Street Prepared which allow both. Are there any other classes that actually have restrictions against plates than stock class.
Street Touring allows for only one form of camber adjustment. This allows you to use either but not both.

05 STi with Pink springs, -2.7 camber front -1 camber rear. Rota Slipstream 17x8 wheels. Kuhmo 255/40/17 Ecsta MX's.

MODERATE RUBBING IN THE REAR. :furious: Won't fit under fender. Gonna try adding more rear camber (Maybe -1.5?) and rolling the hell out of the fender.

Rubbing occurs under hard accelleration, cornering, or a bump.

Just thought I would share.

Go read the rule and then ask the question....
Can you give me an example of a category where you could do either but not both? I know that is stock classes, plates are out of the question and 'crash' bolts are allowed... but from there you have Street Touring and Street Prepared which allow both. Are there any other classes that actually have restrictions against plates than stock class.
D_REX has it right. You can use either form of camber adjustment on macstrut cars...but not both. This applies to SP as well.

Jay Storm

05 STi with Pink springs, -2.7 camber front -1 camber rear. Rota Slipstream 17x8 wheels. Kuhmo 255/40/17 Ecsta MX's.

MODERATE RUBBING IN THE REAR. :furious: Won't fit under fender. Gonna try adding more rear camber (Maybe -1.5?) and rolling the hell out of the fender.

Rubbing occurs under hard accelleration, cornering, or a bump.

Just thought I would share.

These have the +48mm offset correct?

How much of the fender are you going to "roll" there isn't alot there to get rid of.

Street Touring allows for only one form of camber adjustment. This allows you to use either but not both.
Thank you D_REX.. I was confusing the use of crash bolts with the stock adjustment. :rolleyes: :o

So, if your car actually needs the crash bolts to meet the stock alignment specs (the reason they're allowed in the stock classes, IIRC) then you're SOL as far as camber adjustments go in ST or SP? (you don't need to answer this, it's just one of the lines of thinking that caused me to ask the dumb question yesterday)

Thank you D_REX.. I was confusing the use of crash bolts with the stock adjustment. :rolleyes: :o

So, if your car actually needs the crash bolts to meet the stock alignment specs (the reason they're allowed in the stock classes, IIRC) then you're SOL as far as camber adjustments go in ST or SP? (you don't need to answer this, it's just one of the lines of thinking that caused me to ask the dumb question yesterday)
Something to note is that "crash bolts" are only allowed in the stock classes if they are expressly called out as a method of repair in your car's service manual. I'm pretty sure that Subaru does not condone the use of "crash bolts", but I've been wrong before.

These have the +48mm offset correct?

How much of the fender are you going to "roll" there isn't alot there to get rid of.

:devil: :devil: You can still roll, some call it pulling, the fender outwards after you have tucked the little lip up into the fender. On the MY04 STi you get 1/4" from rolling the lip but almost 0.75-1 inch when you bend the entire fender outwards.

J

Pics
roller:
http://www.spryracing.com/FAQS/technical/fenderrolling/DSCF1924.JPG
after:
http://www.spryracing.com/images/cars/subaru/2004STi/20050529SCCAAutoX/DSCF1928.JPG

You just have to be agressive with the roller, lol.

How exactly did you go about pulling the fender out? Also PM'd you :)

These have the +48mm offset correct?

How much of the fender are you going to "roll" there isn't alot there to get rid of.

I'm gonna do what I can. I don't expect much... But I'm gonna give it my best shot.

And yes the +48 offset.

:devil: :devil: You can still roll, some call it pulling, the fender outwards after you have tucked the little lip up into the fender. On the MY04 STi you get 1/4" from rolling the lip but almost 0.75-1 inch when you bend the entire fender outwards.


.25 inch's isn't gonna do it. That just wouldn't clear. Gonna try for .5 inch.

if you're trying for that much you're going to have to pull the fenders

and the .25" is on a MY04 you already have about .2 more clearance then a MY04, being that you have the MY05

if you're trying for that much you're going to have to pull the fenders

and the .25" is on a MY04 you already have about .2 more clearance then a MY04, being that you have the MY05

I kinda expected that. But I'll try rolling them first.

Most importantly I don't want someone else to make the same mistake I did in thinking that everything was gonna be OK and just go on like cake with no rubbing. Cause it does, ALOT. The cars borderline undriveable. Have to slow way down for the corners, slow way down for bumps. :mad:

How exactly did you go about pulling the fender out? Also PM'd you :)

Frame machine and a decent auto repair guy. You can search for posts I've made; I am pretty sure I have covered it in a couple threads, possibly even earlier in this thread.

IMO I would "fix the suspension" before you go tweeking the shell. A bigger rear bar may stop the rubbing in the corners and some upgraded struts may prevent rubbing on accell and bumps.

Oh and rear hats may not hurt either. I have some pillow ball hats for sale.... shameless plug. :devil:

Oh and rear hats may not hurt either. I have some pillow ball hats for sale.... shameless plug. :devil:

are you selling cusco plates? If so I am interested! Pm -me

are you selling cusco plates? If so I am interested! Pm -me
ahhh....beat me....i am too, although i was reading on one of the vendor sites, states that cusco places will only work for bugeyes, and 04 STIs, they should work for 04-05's as well correct? searched around a bit, but never found a definitive answer.

Sorry no cusco, however Gruppe-S now has these instock. I have a fixed rear hat that is full pillow ball (exactly what the typicall coilover comes with in the rear). However, the hats will fit a stock strut.

I am not aware of changes between bugeye / 04 STi and new models with regard to the strut top. However, I am not an 'expert'.

05 STi with Pink springs, -2.7 camber front -1 camber rear. Rota Slipstream 17x8 wheels. Kuhmo 255/40/17 Ecsta MX's. what are you using for camber adjustment? Those aren't numbers you can get w/ a stock setup.

My '05 on pinks was -1.5 in the rear (not adjustable) and -1 in the front (maxed out.)

what are you using for camber adjustment? Those aren't numbers you can get w/ a stock setup.

My '05 on pinks was -1.5 in the rear (not adjustable) and -1 in the front (maxed out.)

I've turned the front into "crash bolts". In the rear I've got a whiteline camber bolt.

gurus, i need a little bit of help please...

currently, i have rota torque 17X8 with 48 offset. car's sitting on H&R sport springs and KYB AGX. Next year, I plan on replacing the AGX with koni yellows and likely a coilover from ground control with 11/10k spring rates.

what I'm trying to accomplish is to get the widest tires possible with minimal fender modification, none if possible, and no hub modifications as well.

this is for a 2003 WRX.

thanks!

on those rims 245's with minimal mods would be great IMHO

I think that's the reason I made this thread "255 and growing". 255 is where most of the GD impreza's start asking questions. 245 can fit a wagon if setup right w/o issues.

best of luck,
Justin

I'm gonna do what I can. I don't expect much... But I'm gonna give it my best shot.

And yes the +48 offset.


so what are some potential solutions for 255/40/17's on 05 sti's with pinks...

* more negative camber.. but more than -1.5 is really pushing things
* rolling fender.. but on 05 sti, there isn't much to roll
* stiffer suspension, but this likley an option if the person already went with pinks (price, comfort, etc)
* add camber plate that will increase ride height (e.g. cusco)

what about different wheels. will a +50 offset 17x8 help any? is the stock 17x8 +53 offset bbs wheel of any use... or will that rub on the inside?

so what are some potential solutions for 255/40/17's on 05 sti's with pinks...

* more negative camber.. but more than -1.5 is really pushing things
* rolling fender.. but on 05 sti, there isn't much to roll
* stiffer suspension, but this likley an option if the person already went with pinks (price, comfort, etc)
* add camber plate that will increase ride height (e.g. cusco)

what about different wheels. will a +50 offset 17x8 help any? is the stock 17x8 +53 offset bbs wheel of any use... or will that rub on the inside?

I think the hot "cheep" setup would be a pair of 17x8 Rota's in +48 for the front with 255's. And the stockers in the rear with 255's. I think it would all fit OK. We're rolling the fenders tonight. I'll post results.

I'm not gonna go stiffer and do plates till the end of 06. That gonna be next winters project. Probably gonna do TEIN Flex with plates.

I think the hot "cheep" setup would be a pair of 17x8 Rota's in +48 for the front with 255's. And the stockers in the rear with 255's. I think it would all fit OK. We're rolling the fenders tonight. I'll post results.

I'm not gonna go stiffer and do plates till the end of 06. That gonna be next winters project. Probably gonna do TEIN Flex with plates.

hmm... what about stockers all around with 255's?

hmm... what about stockers all around with 255's?
Not sure why people don't do that as it fits just fine :confused:

-Tom

alot of people are running 255s all around with the stock MY05 wheels.

Including myself.

also on STi Pinks. No rubbing.

hmm... don't think you could fit rear Cusco camber plates to pinks... well, at least I don't know how are they going to fit.

hmm... don't think you could fit rear Cusco camber plates to pinks... well, at least I don't know how are they going to fit.
why??? even though they are on the same struts?

why not? please explain.