I'm pulling my RS(98 DOHC) engine out for a swap and I'm wondering were are the best places to hook it up to the hoist? I was thinking of putting some straps on the intake manifold but I'm unsure of that.

The A/C compressor bracket is inteded to be used as a hoist point, as well as a brass colored bracket towards the rear of the engine.

ok i have it lifting up but it's not coming off the bell housing.

Assuming you have removed the tranny bolts from the engine and the engine mount bolts...

Jack up the tranny a bit to get the angle to pull the tranny off the bottom trannt studs

I'm just pulling to engine the tranny is staying with the car. I ran into a snag though :-( a crappy weld job by who ever fixed this hoist is at fault I'll be welding it back together tomorrow)

http://rfoy.jreednet.com/rs25/swap/snag.jpg

i used the bottom of the accesories bracket (slide a hook UNDER it, (under the power steering) and the other diagonally across the engine because there was a circle hook, take the intake off first though.

You may need to drive a couple screw drivers/pry bars between the engine and the bell housing. There are two locating studs that do not always want to release. If you can get access to the two studs and hit them with some penatrating oil.

Z

Do Not Lift By The Intake Manifold

do I need something to hold the tranny up or will it hold it self in place? right now I'm waiting to get the hoist welded.

I have read about some people needing a WRX front sway bar for the swap. Others say nothing about swapping the sway bar. So do I need it or will my RS bar work?

Tanny should hold it's self in place thats why it has mounts ;)

Do Not Lift By The Intake Manifold
actaully a lot of engines can be lifted by the manifolds. You really have no idea how strong alumnium is. We support accord/odyssey engines/transmissions with an engine hanger that wraps around the throttle body. I just put and S2k engine in tonight and one of the designated lift points is on the intake manifold.

you sure it isn't the wrx front cross member that you need rather than the sway bar?

Will he have to release the clutch fork?

I have a legacy turbo(92) front cross member installed with a GC8 front sway bar and I ran into no problems with it.

anything from a GC8 will work GC8=turbo which is the only difference is the upipe clearance. im using a legacy turbo crossmember and swaybar on my impreza.

unbolt the tranny and jack it up. When you get the engine out put a block of wood underneath the tranny to hold it up for when you put the new motor back in. It will make your life easier

A Subaru engine is not that Much in weight... it's around what 350ish LB?

I wonder if it's possible for just one person to move it... at least the 1.8L that is.

no not much weight at all. my friend and i could EASILY lift my old 1.8L and move it around if we wanted to.. mm aluminum

can anyone else confirm or deny this thing of not lifting the engine by the intake manifold? 8 m5(?) bolts evenly spread over the weight, and a light long block I would think it should be able to take the weight. I carried a long block by myself about 15ft so it cant weigh any more than 170lbs or so.
I used the eyelet bracket by the flywheel access hole and the AC bracket for hooks to lift the engine out, worked ok. I would like to use a more evenly balanced fore-aft system though. like under the intake mani with ratchet strap. would be super easy to adjust the engine.
on this note, how hard is it to pull a engine/trans as a unit in a subaru?

though the engine doesnt weigh much, i still wouldnt lift by the manifold... the bolts that hold it on are puny, and you wouldnt want any warpage of any kind. using the acessory bracket and hook near cylinder 3 it was well balanced, and you can adjust it by adjusting the lenghth of each segment.

though the engine doesnt weigh much, i still wouldnt lift by the manifold... the bolts that hold it on are puny, and you wouldnt want any warpage of any kind. using the acessory bracket and hook near cylinder 3 it was well balanced, and you can adjust it by adjusting the lenghth of each segment.

Those bolts are already torqued and I highly doubt that lifting from the manifold that has eight bolts securing it and distributing the load will cause any issues. How do you think they get engines out of the yards in Japan when they are quickly stripping down STi's etc? I've received several engines that had pieces of seat belt tied to the manifold that were used for removal. I have a piece of strap that I use anytime i need to remove or install an engine.

Z

intake manifold works fine, thats what i did to get my ej25 out, worked perfect. kyle

alrighty looks like it works, i just had my intake manifold off when i took my engine out

I took my stock motor out with the intake manifold as I removed the bracket near the bell housing long ago to make room for a turbo and stuff. I used the bracket and the AC bracket to put my EJ20 in.

Also I'm having trouble getting my motor mounts to line up on my EJ20 they ar sitting abouty 1 inch forword of the mounts in the crossmember anyone have an idea?

i had the same problem, then i disconnected the pitchmount and the pins slid right into the slots in the crossmember. so try that, kyle

thanks man.

no prob ;)

sorry that was me on the buddys computer.

ok, did you get the mounts to lineup?

yes thank you I pulled the dog bone off and wiggled the motor alittle and it fell right in. hooked the dogbone back up and started connecting fuel/coolant lines today.

todays progress

http://rfoy.jreednet.com/rs25/swap/swap22.jpg

http://rfoy.jreednet.com/rs25/swap/swap23.jpg

http://rfoy.jreednet.com/rs25/swap/swap24.jpg

For anyone else looking to lift out an engine, I found a very helpful device hanging in my garage that worked very well:

http://img495.imageshack.us/img495/6478/carri8de.jpg

I bought them a while back along with a couple of harnesses (but not for climbing :D), and they are quite strong. I believe 25kN longitudinally and 7kN laterally. Quick realease and able to manuver around all the brackets to hook on.

I had a small clevice that I used for the back, but when I came to the front the misc. bolts and nuts I had wouldnt manuver throught the bracket. Next time I'll just use 2 of these. I know I tested it, b/c I removed 2 engine to mount bolts instead of the 2 mount to crossmember nuts. Hey it was my first time with an EJ! I ended up with the front of the car coming up and I couldnt figure out why I couldnt move the engine off the bell housing more than 2" or so. I felt pretty dumb. :mad:

Hope this helps the next guy yanking the ol' 2.5, 2.2, etc.