edit: i think i know what im doing now....(see post 12+)

Ive started rewiring my car recently to the legacy turbo ecu and everything. Before i had it wired to my 1.8L ECU, and that didnt go so great, it ran and i drove it for 1000 miles but decided to go ahead and do the full wiring swap i should have in the first place.

I have stripped everything out of the car except the top of the dash that goes across the whole car, do i need to take that out to get behind the heater core and all the junk behind the center consul?

i am not sure what all i have to rewire, i have all the wires from the leg turbo, and was wondering if anyone knew how hard it is what im getting into. ive never wired anything before, but im sure i can do it with a little help.

thanks a bunch
-nathan

your able to run the 2.2t longblock w/ the 1.8 intake mani and sensors. that's what i had.

i was running it on the 1.8 ecu with 1.8 sensors (minus EGR and ASV) with the 2.2t manifold.... but it runs wrong, overfuels down low, lean up top, agressive timing, really bad turbo farts, etc, so i want it to run right so im gonna hopefully be able to get it running on the right ecu.

Do you have your diagrams yet?

i have loads of them, im sure i have the right ones somewhere.

my cars interior looks like your now, not sure when im gonna be able to work on it though

Let me know when you want to work on it. I got a new phone so I dont have your #, so give me a call some time.

ok awesome, itll probably just be on the weekend sometime when its nice out since its not in the garage, just in the main driveway.

Natoe,
It really isn't going to be any different than an early WRX swap would be for your car. You will want to strip out all the ECU related wires from the turbo harness. And the major power and ground wires will come out as well. This is going to be spliced into your car, and you will remove all those wires.
The major difference you will encounter is that the Legacy stuff mostly comes through the driver's side fender, while most of your Impreza stuff comes through the firewall. The ECU's live in different locations. The legacy ECU goes under the dash next to the kicker panel. Because of this, you can actually get away without pulling the heater core. But you do have to pull the dash.

The wires that come through the firewall are the boost solenoid/pressure sensor, knock sensor, MAF, and the tranny related stuff wires. There are few enough wires that you can pull out the top of the heater core and tuck them behind it with the core still in place...

hmm ok, so ill have to cram the new ecu up under the dash somewhere?
i think ill have to recruit some help to do this, if someone knows what they are doing it seems like this could be done in a day or two. thanks matt, im sure ill have more questions later once i actually get to work on it.

yeah i can answer specific questions too. i just did this in the summer. the harness rearranging is pretty easy. Then you have to add 9 or so wires. and a diode for the self shut off control which is different than the t-leg's. it's good to know how to run a solder gun and an ohm meter though.

self shut off control on a 95 impreza? hmm, is it even necessary?

what 9 wires need to be ran? even though i have the full harness and everything?

once me and nick get crackin at it im sure ill have some questions for you guys, thanks a bunch

k well i ACTUALLY started wiring today, depsite saying i was a long time ago.

i believe i know what im doing. we cut and labeled all of the wires that went to the 1.8ECU. then we took the legacy ECU plugs and are sytematically cutting the ones that have corresponding 1.8 wires so that later we can splice the 1.8 wires into the legacy ecu plugs.

there are a bunch of wires, about 10, that need to be run, we are just leaving the knock sensor and other boost stuff connected to the ECU plugs so we dont have to splice those.

if you havent realized im using the 1.8L engine harness and letting it get back to the ECU like it normally did, then adding the boost wires that i dont have on that harness.

i also have to put the 2.2L turbo throttle body back on so i can use the correct IAC and TPS. wiring included there (splicing the right connectors on)

once that is all done, ill splice all the 1.8 wires to the correct legacy ecu plugs, and hopefully itll work!

i think i understand what to do now finally, ask me if you have any questions!

k well i ACTUALLY started wiring today, depsite saying i was a long time ago.

i believe i know what im doing. we cut and labeled all of the wires that went to the 1.8ECU. then we took the legacy ECU plugs and are sytematically cutting the ones that have corresponding 1.8 wires so that later we can splice the 1.8 wires into the legacy ecu plugs.

there are a bunch of wires, about 10, that need to be run, we are just leaving the knock sensor and other boost stuff connected to the ECU plugs so we dont have to splice those.

if you havent realized im using the 1.8L engine harness and letting it get back to the ECU like it normally did, then adding the boost wires that i dont have on that harness.

i also have to put the 2.2L turbo throttle body back on so i can use the correct IAC and TPS. wiring included there (splicing the right connectors on)

once that is all done, ill splice all the 1.8 wires to the correct legacy ecu plugs, and hopefully itll work!

i think i understand what to do now finally, ask me if you have any questions!
Thats a good idea.

yeah, once i get soldering, its pretty straight forward, i could be done in like a week.

i need to figure out what the "TI monitor" is, the difference between the select monitor Rx and select monitor Tx, and what "Jurisdiction ID" is. i can probably ask vrg3 at legcentral since he wrote up the pinouts im using :lol:

turns out none of the above ^^^ matters unless i live in CA.

we got one of the 4 ECU plugs connected to the car, i should be able to finish the rest up when i can find an hour or two. turns out i only need to run ONE extra wire to the TPS since it is 4 wires while the 1.8 is just 3, and splice on that new bigger connector. the rest of the boost stuff was left connected to the ECU and ran through the firewall.

looks like the hardest part of this is going to be getting the other throttle body back on... dammed non-intercooled hardline turbo->TB hose is very stubborn. sure beats a wrx swap's wiring ;) :lol: i like OBDI!!

well we are almost done rewiring my car, but have run into a couple problems. everything is spliced into the ecu, and we put a diode between the ignition switch and self-shutoff control to give the ecu the time it needs to shut off properly. the ecu is getting power, the accesories come on, starter has power, the fuel pump does not... i dont really know how to start troubleshooting, plus i still need all my boost control things.

i wish i had some pictures of the progress, but i dont have a way of getting them to my dorm computer.

heres my car with the new wheels its needed for so long, thanks MBREX!
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/2127/dscf00051zt.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

mmmm... tread
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/984/dscf00049uq.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

im so stuck....
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/7861/dscf00097bg.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

the extra boost control stuff
http://img452.imageshack.us/img452/9291/dscf00103zo.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

That's alot of wiring!!! Better you than me that's all I have to say! Good luck!!

That looks fun! Your ganna love getting rid of those steel wheels. RE92's suck, but they are way better then those 185's or whatever they were. oh, and its ganna be even easier to slip your clutch.

yeah big improvement over the *165*'s hahaha. only thing is they almost rub the rear struts, about a centimeter of clearance or less. i think its just because they are FWD parts :p im pretty sure itll be alright though, another reason to get awd sooner

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/2713/dscf00071cw.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Man, that looks familiar ;)http://www.powerlabs.org/images/swapin3.jpg

yeah, id like to say mine is easier than a wrx swap since it is more straight forward, but.... im not gonna say that until mine actually works. :(

yeah, once i get soldering, its pretty straight forward, i could be done in like a week.


why did i have to say that...? ECU isnt getting power, and vrg3's self-shutoff control diode trick isnt fixing it... now im stuck. :mad: i need a voltmeter

Guess what. i broke down and bought one this weekend...

yeah? where from and how much? i assume your still pretty stuck as well?

IT STARTED TONIGHT. :banana: :banana: :banana: dont have an intake yet, IAC hose isnt hooked to the intake either so it doesnt idle, but DAMN it runs so much smoother, its amazing.

Kotir- even though you just mentioned the backup supply to me, i tried splicing the diode in there and voila, fuel pump and CEL came on. i got all my boost sensors and stuff today and got it running the same day!

i was starting it with some throttle it would fire a tad then die, but then with no throttle it reved up to 2200 and smoothly glided to 750 then died. guess it was just bogged.

anyways, i need to get a 5.5mm ID vacuum hose line to run from the boost solenoid to the wastegate actuator, and the intake stuff.

Nick- do you have a short <1ft exhaust part with a 45 degree bend..? im goin custom with the intake.

:disco:

Thats great you got it started! I think i have some pipe that might work. give me a call this weekend.

NATOE!!!!!! Right on man. so everything made it alright? do you need the Maf sensor for that car? I just got the black one back into my car so I have a legacy turbvo one to get rid of. My car works so much better now!!!! and the gas milage is getting better as well. Good job man. so when you gonna school some riceers?

hey, sorry i didnt pm you about getting the stuff, its been really busy with finals and everything. i got it on thursday like you said and i started it on friday! thing is, i believe i messed up the TPS, we ran extra wires to it, and i think i messed up because it starts up and falls to idle then dies, if i give it gas it just poops out. i know you spliced yours onto your harness... can you tell me what the 4 pins each are on the legacy TPS connector? btw you know you gave me 2 of almost everything right!? thanks again, once i figure out whats up itll be ready for a new tranny haha.

also, the MAF has 5 connector spots, but one of the middle ones is missing right...? because i have the metal silver MAF, got it from a kind oregonian.

i REALLY need to get VRG's scantool working so i can see if the 02 sensor, MAF, and TPS are all working right, since it seems the others are. just need to find a cruddy old laptop with a parralell port.

Nick- i didnt call you cuz i decided it will be waaay easier to just find a legacy turbo airbox, and they arent as uncommon as i thought, so ill be hittin up the junkyards some more :p tim said hed see if there was one in eugene too.

Hmm, looking at those links you PM'ed me a long time ago at legcentral, just realized they are all pics of the TPS, so i think i can figure it out---thanks :)

no problem, I told you that you would need 'em hahahah :wink:

haha yeah, back then i didnt have a clue what i was doing. just looked at how i have it wired, and its backwards, so no wonder it wouldnt stay started! also my battery died..? first time i left the battery connected, and it is dead :huh: its a newish battery too.

do you know about the MAF though? 5 pin spots, but only 4 of 5 pins on the MAF side have a connector? reason im worried about it is because on the legacy MAF plug there are 5 pins and all 5 have a wire to them.

I think you will be fine. dont quote me but I think that the extra wire is just another ground and carries no signal or any thing. could be wrong though. My battery did the same for my swap, said screw it and went for an optima. Dude I hope you milage gets better, I have leaned out everywhere that isnt boost with my perfect [power, and wow. I filled up at 8 pm tonight saw a movie, and now I have 48 miles on the car and 1/4 tank gone.

awesome well i got the TPS problem figured out...

ya know, i love subaru for its interchange-ability, but on the TPS and as i find out the IAC as well the black and white wires are switched from legacy-impreza. everything else is the same, so i assumed the white would go to white, black to black, but no they are switched.

i just need to switch 2 wires on the IAC valve, and then when my airbox and intake arrive from blackbart on legacycentral i hope its ready.

i decided to go completely stock for the intake, might decide on doing the mug mod later if its worth it. i heard all it does is make the turbo and DV louder..? *shrug* bmxpunk, is yours with the mugmod noticeably louder?

well i just purchased another 1995 impreza coupe, with awd 5mt and the safety package (4wheel discs and ABS) and big ol dent in the door. maybe fixable but would cost a bunch.

any suggestions to what i should do with everything i have? because my wire job is certainly not working right now...

im debating possibly getting an AFC and running it in the awd impreza on the 1.8 ECU, since i think the AFC would help the terrible fueling a lot..
other option is i can swap the awd over to my car if i get the wiring done :p

see my dilemma? an awd thats damaged... vs a fwd with the engine and wiring in there already (asumming i get it to work)

ahhhh, either way i have everything i need to make my car what i want it to be :banana:

Thats hilarious!

turns out the damage on the AWD car is too much to fix (unibody damage) so i get to do all the work of swapping the AWD and 4 wheel discs on over to my car :) hahaha so much work... yet its so worth it.

everyone in corvallis wave when you see me driving the AWD teal POS with the huge dent! have already had 2 people take a picture and several people honk at me... guess they think its funny that i have no window and the door is tied down by a rope :lol:

natoe, does that car have the passenger side mirror? and do you wanna get rid of it?

I am gonna start rebuilding my new ej22t soon, still cant decide what heads to use

You two have truly become subby junkies of the first order...

HAHAHA I am trying. Hows the heads coming matt?

I have these ideas (or dreams) of another ej22t thats better than mine. then right behind that I wanna do a cool NA 2.5 Liter. and If I can involve a Justy into either of them I would be stoked!!!!!

You two have truly become subby junkies of the first order...
:D thats the plan!

bmxpunk- the whole passenger side of the car is in pretty perfect shape, the mirror is a power mirror though, i dont think that really matters as long as i give you the whole thing that bolts onto the car. the power part doesnt work, probably has to do with the left mirror dangling by 3 wires...

but yeah you can have the mirror but since im going to be driving this car for a while and i dont have a driver side mirror i need it until i start parting it out..

Here's a link to some pictures of the car. (http://portland.craigslist.org/car/118669758.html)

btw my suby junkie hopes are to someday have a ver 1-2 EJ20G for a fun time, when my EJ22T blows up. i think megasquirt would be fun too, not really sure how subarus and EJ's like it though havent really heard any attempts.

Tyler,
My heads are back in my garage, but still in pieces. It's been too cold to go out there and work recently, and my gurl won't let me reassemble them in the house...

Matt does your gurl hate your car hobby too? Mine started talking about commitment and hobbies and GIVNG(up) and taking.....


pure crap i tell you

yeah i get a bit about how i 'ruined a perfectly good car' when i started this. but 1.8L FWD is not a "perfectly good car" to me :lol:

tyler- im retarded and cant figure out the wiring problems im having and cant get vrg's program to work :( how do you think mine would run with AWD on the 1.8 ECU with an SAFC? im just considering my options... how do you think the AWD oem clutch would hold up?

you guys are arguably worse than me. eh?

hahah

door with rope. friend had a 2 door just like that!

If it ran like mine, it would run ok then it would run like crap!!! :lol:


Then you would realise that at some point the vaccum line form the intake to the fuel pressure regulator had a big hole in it. Which would lead you to have to completely redo the mapping on your engine management :rolleyes:

But it still doesnt feel that much different.

yeah my girl friend cant believe that I want to build another car. i am supposed to be saving for a ring. but no pressure :rolleyes: :huh:

lol so what are you saying? it ran OK until you found out about that hole? i know all my vaccum stuff is correct right now soooo...

would an AFC get rid of some of the bucking? before i wasnt hardly able to go part throttle without backfires and such. think if i leaned it out down low it would solve some of this? just curious what you think

no it runs a little better now that I fixed the hole.

AFC might work. If doug vincent, josh and I get some stuff figured out the perfect power wont be beatable, way more features and almost the same cost!!

really the same cost? i thought an AFC was like 200 while the PP was 500 right?

the suby notch guy has a megasquirt on his ej20. might wanna talk to him.

Honestly, in all reality- stock turbo harness/em is unresputably good :)

yeah of course, this is just because i cant seem to get it running on the correct ECU... i can run it on the 1.8 ECU but then it fuels terribly, so thats why an AFC may help, but how much does the SMT6 cost?

what do the legacy boards gurus say about your predictament?

they cant figure out why the scantool wont work.... basically i need to check all of my wiring that ive done so far.

they cant figure out why the scantool wont work.... basically i need to check all of my wiring that ive done so far.

I'm in the same boat as you. but havn't touched it in over 2 weeks.

yeah i have ideas, then i run out to check and get soaked from the rain, then get all confused and come inside... meanwhile the AWD donor is rotting in front of the house haha

when it stops raining im going to test the TPS, IAC, and MAF with a voltmeter, if its not one of those then im screwed

Yea you would be.

unless someone has a brilliant idea i may just go back to the way i had it on the other ECU :p and get a AFC or other crap that costs too much $$$ to help it run like tyler's.. i dont care about performance right now, wastegate boost is fine for me as long as it just drives!

right now you dont want your car to run like mine. yeah it runs but do you really want a huge leanspot right as the boost comes on? errrrrrrr :(

So i think I have a new plan. since I got a spare 22t block, i want to do some wrx heads. I also got the wiring harness from a leg turbo. rebuild block, wrx/sti heads, rewire car to legturbo, get early wrx or same fitament autronic ecu. That sounds a bit better to me. This will take a little bit of time but it should be cool. any body knw which ecu it is that fits the leg turbo connectors, I think it is the 94-96 wrx/sti. correct me though

It sucks you guys are playing with dinosaurs. :lol: Sorry, had to say it.

yeah i got a multimeter today so ill be able to test some things.

dinosaurs? haha yeah i guess. but would i trade the shortblock for a 205? nah, the rest of the stuff in a heartbeat though. i really dont wanna go back to the way i have it so hopefully i can figure it out. merry christmas

Dinosuars? :lol:

Yeah maybe. but my other option is to go with a full new wrx harness that I cant buy off my friend, so its way more expensive.


We will see though, plans change(daily) iguess. stilll want the 22t block over the 205 though just a preference thing

boof. some dynosaurs are good stuff :P

some new age stuff is poot.

mix and match yo. reason enough to stick with the OG is to avoid the obd poop business, and the well marketed for the masses bobb nadaxes port type stuff, and all that jazz.

mine is a dinosaur :P

haha well id say its nice to have OBDI for wiring but im so dumb i cant figure it out!!! probably since i did the modify-the-existing-harness route, but someone on legacy central did exactly the same thing into his 93 impreza... :rolleyes:

ITS ALIVE ;)

i ran it for 3 minutes today, with the TPS unplugged, the starter contacts just decide when and when not to work. :p but it ran real smooth, just idled at 2500 because of no TPS im guessing..

Nice! so what was wrong?

stick with it natoe, avoid the dang S-afc as much as possible!!!!! The factory stuff will make it the most reliable. it is your friend!!!!

alright, so im thinking that because my engine was soaked from the assloads of rain the contacts on the starter werent working, but now that its dry-er the starter is fine again. since then i had fixed my IAC, (same plug as 1.8 but closed and open are switched), and also i have all my boost control and intake hooked up. without the TPS and idle switch on it it made it idle at 2000 and go up (im hoping thats the reason it did that).

i am going to buy another TPS i think, but heres the problem....
there are 4 wires on the TPS, brown white red black.
brown- idle switch
red- power

black- on the sensor its ground, on the uncut ecu its the signal

white- on the sensor its signal, on the uncut ecu its the ground

this plug and ECU are... FROM THE SAME PACKAGE.
i wouldnt put it past subaru to change the black and white wires because they did it on the IAC already.

either way though, ive tried both and neither of them give a reading like they should be.

bmxpunk can you give me a DETAILED description of what you did for your TPS? and what wire is what? the t-leg one goes from 4.7V closed to 1.6V open while the N/A1.8 is opposite so what did you do?

other than that, i need to put that wrx fuel pump in, and take er for a short spin until my clutch doesnt work again. hopefully thatll get me to CHS so i can use their lift for the AWD swap. Whew.

my scantool results on legacy central: (the first ones are before i started it)
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=24700

stick with it natoe, avoid the dang S-afc as much as possible!!!!! The factory stuff will make it the most reliable. it is your friend!!!!


:) the fact that it wasnt pouring out black clouds at idle made it all worth it haha. ill never do the 1.8ECU again, even though i was tempted when this wasnt working. my friend has an extra AFC that just does +- 30% (ghetto 80's one) that he doesnt need so i might use that in the future just because once i TMIC it thats always good.

my set up for the tps is completely different Natoe. I am using the 1.8 ecu wit the 22t tps and I just wired everything in like it was but the 1.8 ecu doesnt have 4 wires for the tps so I just left the brown wire unhooked and taped back. other than that it was wired in normally blak ground, red power and white signal.

hmm ok, cuz on the T-Leg ECU black is signal :confused: and white is ground :mad:

another TPS is on the way

ok maybe I am wrong let me look at it and the diagrams again. I will have to check. I know all of the functions are wired porperly so....

i just want to see how much you guys object if i said i was going to go back to the way i had it before....

bmxpunk gave me everything i needed and i F'd it up! im pretty sure i cant figure it out now, even though it SEEMS like just the TPS and something making it run lean, but im sure its more than that that is screwed.

i want to go back to the way i had it before, but with a wrx fuel pump, AFC (not SAFC haha) and see how it goes for a while, so i can do the AWD swap.

whattaya think? :confused: ... i know :mad:

dude it will still suck. I had a Walbro pump the whole time (255lph) nothing got better until I upgraded the injectors, and pulled fuel at idle with the perfect power.

i know it will still hesitate and all... but its a hell of a lot better than it not working like its been for the last few months. reverting back shouldnt take long, and i have faith it will work for what i need... it will be better once i get the awd in there... *sigh*

Do it right... :rolleyes:

Its not like there is an endless amount of sensors you can just go though and manually check.

I really regret half assing it, because I have to fix twice as much now.

Do it right... :rolleyes:

Its not like there is an endless amount of sensors you can just go though and manually check.

the TPS signal wire doesnt work. only thing it can be is a bad ECU.

i really wish i woulda done it the way things are normally rewired... but i didnt know what i was doing then! this way SHOULD work, but there are so many cuts everywhere this way.

nick-happen to be free thursday? or friday after 4?

i have a feeling the TPS is the only thing wrong with it, but i dont know. maybe ill try and get a leg turbo guy locally to try swappin ECU's with me to see if thats it...

ok, so i fixed the TPS problem, apparently the ECU wasnt grounding it GOOD enough... but enough to give me voiltage reading on the power wire. so the TPS works.

i can start it, but i still cant get the right O2 sensor reading, and it doesnt idle great, it goes up and down between 1k and 2k, and goes from rich to lean.... doh. it does run a lot better than before the TPS worked though... the timing advance went down to around 30-35* again which i believe is in spec (ish)

have you replaced the 02 sensor? sorry for the obvious but I sarted with a fresh new one when I did my car.

that is definetly the problem i am having with my car right now. where can i get a new one? arent they really spendy OEM?

also... i thought i could use my 1.8 sensor since the legacy one i have doesnt work and gives me .3v constantly, but they do look different, and its not exactly working either so.... i need one!

either subaruparts.com or autozone. I think I paid like 80 or something. worth it though

are they the same as 1.8L ones..?

alright alright, so today i fixed a vaccum leak, and started to think that maybe only my idle is messed up. it still goes right around 2000 for a while and then bounces between 1500 and 2500. i hooked up my laptop and was watching timing advance and went for a drive... ~40-50deg when free revving (sounds way too high) but i drove it around the block and when i got into boost at all the timing dropped down to 19 deg which sounds correct.

it even pegged at 9psi pulled great and smooth, i can give it part throttle and it doesnt hesitate/buck! :banana: this means all the sensors are finally working right including the boost stuff (thanks again tyler!) except for my IAC that came with the engine might be giving these idling problems (or maybe from me taking off the TPS). there is a clicking flutter sound coming from the turbo when im in boost, but im hoping its just my header heatsheild or something rattling.

anyways im pretty happy that ill be able to start the AWD swap soon, i just hope that it IS actually running safely. :)

more diagnosis tomarrow

Nice! you will be not regret spending the time to get it to work right.

Do you have a tps hooked up right now?

Did you ever route your coolent lines right?

coolant lines are all good, it doenst leak anymore, and stays right around 195F (i probably ran it for a full half hour today)

the TPS is hooked up and reads correctly, but im afraid the "idle switch" may be out of spec even though the clearances seem right. most likely that isnt the problem and instead its just the IAC... i think its a common thing to go wrong with turbo legacies. the bouncy idle means its opening too much, above 2000 in gear the IAC is closed so there are no problems, just a 1.8L fuel pump (just until i do the AWD swap, which will be ASAP)

oh... and holy crap i need better engine mounts, the torque twists it like crazy!

Yeah natoe i wish I would Have done things correctly. my issues.... they are alll back. anyone reading this DO NOT BUY THE RALLITEK PERFECT POWER SMT6!!!!!! you eill hate life!!!

I have access to an auto leg turbo and if the harnesses are the same, I think i am going to put that into my car

Have you made sure your throttle cable is loose and are running new plug wires?
I've struggled for days and realized it was this type of simple problem :(

hmm, i know that my throttle cable allows it to be fully closed, and that the "idle switch" is ON until i give it a couple millimeters of pedal it turns OFF. spark plug wires? they are just the 1.8L wires, i dont see how that could effect idle though?