For the first time ever I didn' know where to post this, hehe. So, general it is.

I am looking for a lightweight auto battery to replace the heavy stock battery and place it in the trunk.

What choices do I have. Interestingly enough, Yahoo didn't help me this time, so I need you help. I need a true lightweight racing battery.

TIA.

Any general aviation parts house will have some great ones. They make some with about 25% more CCA than our stock batteries and they are about 1/3 the size and weight. The Cessena dealer by Dulles has them. I also saw them for sale in the Summit racing catalog.

ohh, i want know more about that too.

!O/.

I'm going to guess that you already know about Optima batteries and they aren't what you're looking for..

http://www.optimabatteries.com

They're definitely smaller than regular car batteries anyway..

And don't forget most general aviation batteries are 24v so be sure to get one of the 12v variety which are rare.

Alex,

What about the Stinger batteries? They're designed mainly for car audio competition, so they have good power cycling, and they make them in some pretty small package sizes.

Also, a stock Honda CRX battery is really really tiny. The only downside is the starter on the WRX is a lot bigger than the CRX.

I looked at the optima site and they said their batteries weighed about 40 lbs. That doesn't sound like much of a weight savings to me.

I saw a lightweight battery in the back of a car magazine either Road and Track or SCC. I think it was called Dynabat or something. I think they claimed 13 or so lbs.

I have been also thinking of a light weight battery to get my weight down.

<FONT face="Comic Sans MS">Alex, I found you one, but it's from a mass supplier in China. You can however "request a sample" from them and see if you can get one. I can't direct link to the page with the battery on it (it's 1.5kg!!!!) and I don't even know if it has enough amps to be very useful, but if you can get if free, the hell with it right? The website is
http://www.asiansources.com/gzcatic.co

and the item you are looking for is the

"1-CB4L-B Lightweight Car Battery with Measurements of 121 x 71 x 93mm"


Brian (aka Gummy Bear) http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif
AIM: captaindamorgan ICQ: 84483950
http://ravensblade.cjb.net
You and the Captain make it happen!</FONT f>

also try and get a sealed battery..or vent it to the outside if you have to. http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/biggrin.gif just a thought and use a metal housing for the trunk..plastic housings are no good http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/biggrin.gif

I believe that a motorcycle battery would work too http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif But up here in Canada, that will never do in the winter!

Yep, Akiata was right. DYNA-BATT 13.5lb. $131.75 www.performancedistributors.com (http://www.performancedistributors.com)
scroll down a bit, you can't miss it.

-Kris

I second Dyna Bat I think that is the lightest you can find that will work on a car that has all the stock a/c,heat,etc

I think the Dyna BAt might be a little light. Depends on your personal stero sound levels, lighting, etc. BUT, i saw a cool trunk mount box at Summitt, SUM-890100 fro $120 that vents to the outside. Comes with everything to hold your battery minus cable. Measures 10" x 9" x 11.5" roughly. Smallest one I've found lately. Moroso makes a huge blue tupperware batt box - too big IMHO. Gonna try the Summitt Box & batt move. Will put the battery as close to the R Rr tower as possible, away from the outside corner. Weight goes closer to center, battery moves from rear end crumple zone. Pawn takes rook, blah blah balh. Let you know how it goes.

Isn't this really a handling issue? http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/wink.gif

How 'bout the Miata battery? It's a small gellcell. The only thing I'm not sure of is CCA's and weight. They're kinda pricey too.

Are you wanting this for daily, or just for when you are racing?

If it's just for when you're racing, start the car, then pull the whole battery out. You don't need it, once the car is started.

n-tech (http://www.n-tech.net/engine.cfm) sells a pretty good hawker dry cell battery. Weighs 14.7 lbs, a lot of RX-7 people use it with good results.

Why don't you put in a teeny tiny battery that doesn't have the CCA the car would need, remove the starter, and put a socket through the grill so you can use a hand crank to start the car? That'd be slick and ultra modern! http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/wink.gif

I am seriously considering a Reactor Gel Cell since my battery is about to die.

OUCH - around $190 for the small one - 24lbs, 700cca
http://www.racingbatteries.com/

-Dan

I don't have my rule book with me.
Is moving the location of the battery legal for SCCA STS class.

Q:
how would you move the battery to the trunk,
mounting/bolting points, wiring, grounding, ..etc..

I'm definatly wanting to do this if I can

I have no personal experience with Hawker batteries, but I have heard alot of people saying good things about them. I tried to purchase one last year, but had difficulty finding a seller. Well, I guess that *is* a problem. Anyway, I'd definitely look into offerings from Hawker.

i looked into this about three months ago. i e-mailed spd i think because they didnt list a price for the relocation kit. when they e-mailed me back they were trying to talk me out of it and didnt even give me a price for the kit. another point, if you move it to the rt,r wouldnt you want the same size battery to counter act your weight?

Nope- Relocating the battery is not legal in STS.

Uh...

<blockquote>
<hr>
If it's just for when you're racing, start the car, then pull the whole battery out. You don't need it, once the car is started.
<hr>
</blockquote>

If you do this you will most likely SERIOUSLY damage the electronics in your car, like the ECU and anything that uses electricity.

The alternator uses the battery as a 'gauge' to determine how much power to output. If the battery is dead, it cranks out tons of power. When the battery is full, it doesn't. Hence the function of the voltage regulator.

If you remove the battery, the voltage regulator thinks your battery is dead and will pump out as much juice as it possibly can. Some alternators can put out in excess of 18~20 volts at 100 amps! With no battery to store that electricity, it goes straight into the 'system' of your car.

It about 5 to 10 seconds many cars will have blown up (literally) any electrical bulbs that are turned on, and sensitive, unprotected electronics can be fried.

I learned this lesson when the batter cable came off of the battery post on an old car. It was night, and the headlights lit up brighter that day light and promptly exploded. As did all the other bulbs on the car, including dash lights, taillights, etc. Fortunately the car did NOT have an ECU or I am sure it would have died too.

Edit: splelin'

[This message has been edited by RS25.com (edited April 25, 2001).]

If you're moving the battery to the trunk, wouldn't it be better to keep the stock one or perhaps even a heavier one? This way the weight distribution gets closer to even.

I just bought a Dyna-Batt for $147 (with shipping). I am supposed to get it in 4 business days, so I'll let you know my impressions when it arrives.

So far I know:

Dry Cell Battery
550 CCA
13.5 lbs

Can't wait!

http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif

-Dan

Well, I got my Dyna-Batt today. First impressions are that its *really* small. I took some pictures, and it seems to run everything just fine. Guess we'll see how it holds up now http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif

Enjoy!


<IMG SRC="http://www.importcars.net/subaru/images/dyna1.jpg" border=0>
Now that is one small battery!

<IMG SRC="http://www.importcars.net/subaru/images/dyna2.jpg" border=0>
I never thought the stock battery was particularly large either.

<IMG SRC="http://www.importcars.net/subaru/images/dyna3.jpg" border=0>
I used 8" Battery hooks and an adjustable battery bar to mount it. The negative terminal was a little tight, but I was able to get it on the post.

Any questions, just let me know http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif

-Dan

You can all thank me later for telling you about dyna batt. http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/smilies/wink.gif

Were you able to use the same battery bracket from the stock battery?

Does it slide around?

Do the lights dim? Do they dim with the stereo/wipers/defrost etc on?

Do you know how long the battery should last?

You could try Red Top batteries

2.8Kg 8AH 300A starting 138Lx86Wx101H
5.0Kg 14AH 550A starting 200Lx77Wx137H
6.1Kg 16AH 480A starting 182Lx77Wx168H
9.0Kg 26AH 850A starting 250Lx97Wx152H
12.5Kg 35AH 1100A starting 250Lx97Wx204H
6.0Kg 17AH 550A starting 170Lx100Wx175H

J.

You can all thank me later for telling you about dyna batt.
Thanks!!!

Were you able to use the same battery bracket from the stock battery?
No. The stock battery mount, besides having started rusting, would not have captured the battery properly. With the adjustable mount, I was able to close the mount up to properly capture the top of the battery.

Does it slide around?
It can slide side to side, but it would take considerable side load to do so. Perhaps more than 1G. Even if it does slide to the side, it won't go far since it only has about 3 to 4 cm on either side worth of clearance. It cannot slide fore and aft since it is properly captured by the battery bar.

Do the lights dim? Do they dim with the stereo/wipers/defrost etc on?
I knew I should have been paying better attention to this last night! I saw no visible dimming, even with my underdrive pulley. But then again, all I was running was the lights and the stereo...

Do you know how long the battery should last?
The battery is rated 550cca, which I believe is *more* than the stock battery. I would give it 3 to 4 years, but only time will prove if my guess is right or not.

Thanks again!

-Dan

where do you buy these "red top" batteries?

-wop

WHAT IS THE POINT??

Isn't there something you could do for $150 like take your girlfriend out to dinner?

The battery will not help in anyway you will notice unless you have nearly a full-race setup. If you must replace it, Miata batteries are $89 and they weigh like 20lbs or less... I may have a scale, but I dunno if I want to redo all my radio stations... I'll look. Nope, no scale.

Rivenoak - I needed to replace the stock battery. It was on its last legs.

So what you are telling me is that I could have spent $89 on a Lead/Acid that wouldn't last 2 years in the AZ desert instead of $147 on a sealed Dyna-Batt? What is the point of that? Why half-a$$ it? I can understand if you are strapped for money, but if some of us have the budget, then do it right the first time. In the long run, I am sure this battery would outlast 2 Miata Batteries, and at half the weight of the Miata battery.

Besides, anytime you take 30lbs out of the nose of a 60/40 biased car, I am POSITIVE you can feel the difference...

The original reason this post was opened was because Alex was looking for a battery he could mount in his Trunk. If you look at all the bonuses you get with this battery, including the fact that it doesn't need to be vented, then there really is no comparison to old school Lead/Acid types.

-Dan

What benefits are you looking to achieve?
One would want to place a "heavy" battery in the trunk to shift weight to a more advantageous position. In most street/strip applications you'd want more weight over the rear drive wheel[s] thus achieve better traction. In this case the performance gains may be nominal at best. But if it makes you happy…

Danny I agree with you on your reasoning but the miata battery and miata replacement batteries are really good.
http://www.sandiegomiataclub.org/SDMC/Garage/Battery_Update.html

Ok, so you needed a new battery.

And I am telling you that Miata batteries are sealed, and they last a long, long time. (And FL isn't exactly Alaska compared to AZ so don't give me the AZ desert junk.)

I have a 1990 Miata, and in its whole existance have changed the battery once. I probably need to do it again soon. The car is over 10 years old w/165,000 miles. (Check the Miata forums, the only people changing their batteries have 6+ y.o. cars.) The Miata battery is a reasonable solution to a dead battery, as is relocation for a heavy one.

Face it, you read about it in a magazine and thought you had to have it... You probably think your car is faster after you wash it.


Edit: Nice link, SkidPlatez, that's exactly what I'm talking about.

[This message has been edited by Rivenoak (edited May 04, 2001).]

Face it, you read about it in a magazine and thought you had to have it... You probably think your car is faster after you wash it.

LOL - at least now I know you are trolling, and have nothing real to contribute to this conversation.

The first time I read about this battery was in this forum. But I guess you didn't read enough of it to realize that.

When I swapped out my 40lb front bumper beam to a 2lb front beam, I noticed the difference. The only weight reduction modification I couldn't feel was the aluminum hood.

Right now, my car weighs 2700lbs with half a tank of gas. Every 10lbs I shave off the car has a huge effect on my car's handling.

Yes, this battery is taking it to the extreme. I did not want to relocate my battery, but I did want to take 30lbs out of the nose of the car. I think that is real world performance anybody can appreciate.

-Dan

EDIT: Need to address others here too. I am sorry I made some generalizations about the Miata battery. I was unaware of its potential. But this was about saving weight, and this was the lightest battery proposed. If you read the first page, you can see I was considering a Reactor Gel-Cell which weighs twice as much as the dyna-batt but puts out 700cca. It was also more expensive. I considered myself lucky enough to find a battery that would take 30lbs out instead of just 20. Anyways, just my 2cents.

[This message has been edited by DannyAtWork (edited May 04, 2001).]

Dan, you make far too many assumptions. For example

1.) The miata battery is and old unsealed lead acid. --Read SkidPlatez link and recant.
2.) That if one doesn't purchase this Dyna-Batt it is because they are strapped for cash.
3.) That I don't have a college education, and that a college education equals knowledge that pertains to this topic.

Now I have made a few mistakes myself, but I have a deep pool of knowledge and some of it applies here. I stand by the quality and value as a solution the Miata battery. Not only for the cost factor, but because of its other qualities such as lifespan, no need to vent, and lightweight.

Edit: I was in the middle of continuing this futher when I noticed you edited and removed the statement that I lacked a formal education, and that you recanted on your previous stance on the Miata battery.

I think it is important not only to consider the final weight of the battery as the return you get out of the money you invest. A full-race conversion is the only setup in my opinion that will earn $150 from that battery. (Which also has a 1year warranty compared to the 4year warranty Miata battery)

[This message has been edited by Rivenoak (edited May 04, 2001).]

just a quick note - There is a solution for those of you wanting to swap out the battery without losing all the presets on your radio and so forth. All it takes is a cigarette lighter plug, a diode, a nine volt battery clip, and a nine volt radio battery (all available from Radio Shack) Connect it all up, the diode is there to keep the car battery from trying to charge up the nine volt radio battery. Plug the assembly into the cigarette lighter socket before disconnecting your car battery, and the 9 volt radio battery will supply enough voltage to keep the radio and other electronics happy.

Question: What is the weight of the Stock 2.5RS battery? Reading above, I must've missed it because I could not find it.

I will weigh my Walmart brand (EverStart, Part# DT-3) when I get around to it for comparison. This battery is fairly cheap, has free replacement from 0-24 months, 750 cranking and 630 cold cranking amps and is lighter than the stock battery. How do I know it's lighter than the stock battery without actually weighing it? I remember how much lighter it felt after taking the stock battery into Walmart for replacement.

So, if somone can weigh their stock battery, I'll go about weighing my battery for comparison. I'll take it that it's at least 10-15lbs lighter.

Thanks for answering my questions danny!

I don't think they would allow me to run in a auto x with the battery like that though. It needs to be secure. I do want to get a lighter battery someday and will look at ALL of the choices. I wouldn't mind paying 180 for this battery but if I could get the miata one that is just about as light for 90 then I would probably get that.

Please remember that reducing the weight of your car is a good thing.

Those who seem to think a heavy battery is better in the trunk than a light one have your logic a little twisted.

Is it better to have a heavy passenger in your car in the back seat to give better handling? Probably not.

Also remember that the battery is on the drivers side and eliminating that weight from the front _left_, and relocating to the rear _right_ will make a differance.

(Note: This applies the LHD if that wasn't obvious...)

- Steve

There are a few things that remain unknown here...

1st off, with the link provided, there are 3 Miata style batteries. I am kinda disappointed that these didn't come up until 2 weeks after the original post, or I would have considered these as well. But...

Dyna-Batt we know weighs 13.5lbs and is rated 550 cca

Stock battery weighs??? (I once heard 41lbs) rated 440 cca?

Miata Battery 1, wet cell OEM Mazda. Weight unkown, 370 cca

Miata Battery 2, WestCo. Weight unkown, 450 cca

Mazda Battery 3, American Eagle. Weight unkown, 530 cca

The American Eagle is $59 to Miata club members. Uknown what it would cost to you and me.

If we can satisfy the unkowns, then we can get a better idea on which one is reducing weight per dollar spent more.

As far as why I did it, its for better handling.

And as far as if it would past tech inspection, it does. You cannot move the battery without applying significant leverage, easily in excess of 30lbs of force. I guess it would take 3 to 4g of lateral accel to shift it. It could use a smaller tray, but I cranked those bolts down very tight, and constantly tried to move the battery as I was doing it.

Rivenoak - I still consider you a troll. Provide some numbers, and I may change my mind.

-Dan

What benefits are you looking to achieve?
One would want to place a "heavy" battery in the trunk to shift weight to a more advantageous position. In most street/strip applications you'd want more weight over the rear drive wheel[s] thus achieve better traction. In this case the performance gains may be nominal at best. But if it makes you happy…

Originally posted by DannyRS
Well, I got my Dyna-Batt today. First impressions are that its *really* small. I took some pictures, and it seems to run everything just fine. Guess we'll see how it holds up now http://www.nasioc.com/ubb-files/smilies/smile.gif


DannyRS,

I'm just wondering how is this battery holding up in your car . . . Is it still running good. I'm looking to replace my battery soon and just want to hear some long-term experience with this battery. Thanks.

Chieh

Aye.

Nick C.