(Just for the record my flame suit is already on...)

I finally got my ap today and like a kid, i had to do it right when i got off of work. Anyway, the install went fine, and everything seems ok. I'm just about to go out for a test drive but i'm confused between the two kinds of maps...can someone put it into AP UBER-NoOB terminology? Basically, i know there are two kinds of maps...i just don't see the difference? I'm looking to run stage 2 all the time, so would i have the stage 2 map set as my "default" and maps like "economy" and "anti-theft" are the temporary maps? Thanks guys ahead of time...i know the answers are out there, and i'm hoping someone can be a pal and lend a hand.

There are Base Maps and Realtime Maps. The base map is just that, the base. It is the "Default map" and you should use the proper base map for what modifications you have. The other maps such as "anti-theft" and "econo" are used as realtime maps. Realtime maps are maps that you can switch back and forth. They will remain on your ecu even if you turn off the car. The only way to change or get rid of what a realtime map changes is if you choose another realtime map to replace it or reset the ECU. When you reset the ECU, it will go back to the Basemap you put on.

In each Base map, there are sub-maps. Sub-maps that control timing, fuel, boost, Wastegate, etc. Base maps have both on the fly sub-maps and static sub-maps. When you use your accessport and change a realtime map, it will alter only the "on the fly" sub-maps of the base map. Those are the differences between realtime and base.

Hope that isnt too confusing.

Peter

G-d d-mn it. I'm a Radioplogic Technologist, CT, MRI, all that stuff, no dummy, but I still don't get it.

I can load Stage 1 as a base OR real time map? What would the difference be?

Basemaps are "flashed" or loaded into the ECU permanently. Flashing is a slow process. The advantage is that anything the ECU does can potentially be altered with a basemap. What is actually altered depends on the particular map.
Realtime maps are loaded into the ECU and this happens very quickly. Many of the important tables(or sub-maps as previously refered to) can be altered in realtime. So a particular stage can be loaded as either a realtime map or a base map, assuming the tuner provides the map in both formats. There are items, such as CEL's, that are not altered in realtime, but these things tend to be less urgent. The direct advantage for AP users is that realtime maps can be changed infinitely and quickly.
Another advantage that the Realtime technology allows is that a tuner can quickly dial in their tunes w/o having to continually stop the dyno(or the car, if tuning on the street), turn the car off, hook up the init connectors, flash the changes(which can be slow), disconnect the init connectors, restart the car, and test the changes. Realtime allows the tuners changes to be instant and ultimately the tunes become more precise.

Ill put it this way. Each map, base or realtime, consists of submaps that control specific things. If you have a "stage 1" car, load the "stage 1" basemap. The basemap can control more functions of your ECU than the realtime map.

Lets say you have a stock base map on your car and the stock map has 20 functions, controling things like A/F, timing, boost, etc. when you load a realtime "stage 1" map, it will only alter 10 of the 20 maps. When you change base maps from stock to "stage 1", you alter 20 of the 20 maps. Some maps can only be altered through changing base maps.

It does get confusing.

Ill put it this way. Each map, base or realtime, consists of submaps that control specific things. If you have a "stage 1" car, load the "stage 1" basemap. The basemap can control more functions of your ECU than the realtime map.


So... If I want as close to plug & play as possible (without any special tuning) I just load stage 1 as base map, then just change to valet/antitheft as needed, then load stock map back as base map when I bring my car to the dealer for any service? Does this in any way affect the stuff I've read about only being able to re-flash ecu 100 times?

You've got it.

the '100 reflash' thing only related to basemaps. So you have 50 chances to bring in your car to the dealer :).

The 100 flash limit is a spec limit by the ecu manufacturer. It basically states that they will guarantee the ecu can be flashed 100 times and still work properly. After 100 they do not guarantee anything. That being said, there are people out there with over 100 flashes.

So... If I want as close to plug & play as possible (without any special tuning) I just load stage 1 as base map, then just change to valet/antitheft as needed, then load stock map back as base map when I bring my car to the dealer for any service? Does this in any way affect the stuff I've read about only being able to re-flash ecu 100 times?

You probably do not need to change the base map for minor dealer services. If they set out to really figure out if you messed with the ecu, I'm sure they can find a way. But if you bring your car in for an oil change, they won't bother. Which means they'll only notice how the car behaves by their butt dyno, and that is well under controll with the real time map, as long as they don't disconnect the battery and reset the ecu.

I run stage 1, and I leave my base map alone. Reflashing ecu is not as fail safe as it should be, and I've seen some people that had technical glitches during the reflash that caused the car to not start, etc. Better not mess with it too often.

I run stg 2, and I've had my car in to the dealer 2 or 3 times for various things (oil change, scheduled maintenance, inspection) and no one has checked if I flashed my ECU.

It's been discussed ad nauseum on here, but unless they are really looking for specific data on your ECU (i.e. checksum) or you didn't set the right ECU identifier (5MT vs. 5AT) in the AccessPort, you should be fine.

I run stage 1, and I leave my base map alone. Reflashing ecu is not as fail safe as it should be, and I've seen some people that had technical glitches during the reflash that caused the car to not start, etc. Better not mess with it too often.

were they idiots???

as long as you don't do some stupid s**t like turn the car off or pull the chord out while it's flashing the ecu won't be damaged... don't worry about killing your ecu just follow the directions and you will be straight

I play around with tuning often and reflash the ECU almost once a week. People that have technical glitches just use that as an excuse. the majority of glitches are not technical, its human. But of course, there are technical glitches once in a while.

I have a question on my new AP, I am running normal Stage 2 93 oct, would hwg, or lwg offer me more boost or hp?:confused: Also can you get a Stage 2 map with race gas, with out paying a tunner for it?:confused:

1) Are you hitting target boost for that map (16psi +/- .5psi)? If so, no need for the HWG map - it wont do anything for you.

2) No.

1) Are you hitting target boost for that map (16psi +/- .5psi)? If so, no need for the HWG map - it wont do anything for you.

2) No.
1.15 bar not sure what psi that is? Will race gas or Octane booster help the car run faster, with a base Stage 2 93 oct map?

google says (you ppl really need to learn how to use the interweb... :-) )

1.15 bar = 16.6793398 pounds per square inch

I hooked up the AP to read live boost and I am getting 18 psi wow??? It did taper down some around 5k or 6k though. Is something wrong or will it running higher hurt any thing, really?

1.15 bar not sure what psi that is? Will race gas or Octane booster help the car run faster, with a base Stage 2 93 oct map?

Are you knocking or pulling timing? If not, no.

See all these questions are valid, but useless without anykind of useful datalogging about the car is ACTUALLY doing.

1.15bar is perfect.

I hooked up the AP to read live boost and I am getting 18 psi wow??? It did taper down some around 5k or 6k though. Is something wrong or will it running higher hurt any thing, really?

That's a bit more than the target max of 16.3psi, are there any other mods that would effect boost control? Not that I'm a tuning genius, just looking at the math, but at those boost levels, higher even than a VF30 or 34 map (17psi max) would give, the air volume that you might be getting into the cylinders could be more air than the stock fuel injectors can keep up with for proper air/fuel ratio.

...also, i have a friend w/ an sti that's running a fmic on a stage 2...is this a good idea? I'm looking to be the most effecient i can be and i'm debating if i shouldn't just sell the sti tmic i bought and buy a fmic instead...i just don't wanna have to lose my jdm fogs. :(

Stage 2 has no need for a FMIC and is not efficient with one. Keep the STi TMIC for its a pretty good one and still ok to use with the AP. You shouldnt need to go Front mount unless you get a bigger turbo. And your friend with the front mount on stage 2 is going to loose a bit of boost.

That's a bit more than the target max of 16.3psi, are there any other mods that would effect boost control? Not that I'm a tuning genius, just looking at the math, but at those boost levels, higher even than a VF30 or 34 map (17psi max) would give, the air volume that you might be getting into the cylinders could be more air than the stock fuel injectors can keep up with for proper air/fuel ratio.
Ok this morning was on the way to work and was in 3rd flooring it under full boost and the car shut down for a sec? Then I got a check eng. light and Cruise Cont. started flashing? I read CEL Codes and had a P0244-Turbo Wastegate Selnoid "A" Range/Performance, any clues what to to? Do you think the Stage 2 LWG 93 oct might help??? :confused: :confused: :confused: I also want to mention it was a little cold out this morning 48 or so, but then did it again on lunch break?

Ok this morning was on the way to work and was in 3rd flooring it under full boost and the car shut down for a sec? Then I got a check eng. light and Cruise Cont. started flashing? I read CEL Codes and had a P0244-Turbo Wastegate Selnoid "A" Range/Performance, any clues what to to? Do you think the Stage 2 LWG 93 oct might help??? :confused: :confused: :confused: I also want to mention it was a little cold out this morning 48 or so, but then did it again on lunch break?

Do a full, disconnecting the battery, reset, and then see what your boost is doing.

What mods do you have?
What adjustments have you made?
Did you buy it used?

Personally, I'd worry about overboosting like that, or at least I'd like to know what's causing it. If you're running a stock turbo Stg. 2 map and you get on it, watching the AP boost reading, and it goes over 17....well, that's just not right and it's probably mechanical, maybe the wastegate actuator is TOO tight, but it's definately something.

after my gauges and ap stage 2 went in, i took her out to pop her cherry...only problem is, i can't get it to boost higher than 0.8 kg/cm^2. :mad:


...and if my math is correct, that equates to a measily 11.3784 psi. :( I don't know what the deal is, but my car felt faster before the ap. Is there a specific time it needs to "learn" the new settings? Thanks in advance...i'm new to the world of ap. Oh, does this mean i'll need to go to the riskier map that cobb has??? BTW, i'm in cali so gas is piss-poor.

Do a full, disconnecting the battery, reset, and then see what your boost is doing.

What mods do you have?
What adjustments have you made?
Did you buy it used?

Personally, I'd worry about overboosting like that, or at least I'd like to know what's causing it. If you're running a stock turbo Stg. 2 map and you get on it, watching the AP boost reading, and it goes over 17....well, that's just not right and it's probably mechanical, maybe the wastegate actuator is TOO tight, but it's definately something.
Mods Include:
-UniFilter Rampod Intake
-Full 3" TBE (catless)
-Eng. Ground kit (not really a mod though)
-AP Stage 2 93oct base map

Adjustments none really to date, did clear out ECU codes and raised the oct to 99oct, to prevent knock. Did some more driving and hasn't yet happened again. I am thinking it's the intake flowing too much air, just a guess though?

I bought the AP brand new 4 days ago.

I do have a 1/4 mile race with a co-worker on Friday, do you think with the present set-up (high boosting) I am getting now; and if the eng. doesn't cut out on me, I will have a better 1/4 time??? :confused:

Mods Include:
-UniFilter Rampod Intake
-Full 3" TBE (catless)
-Eng. Ground kit (not really a mod though)
-AP Stage 2 93oct base map

Adjustments none really to date, did clear out ECU codes and raised the oct to 99oct, to prevent knock. Did some more driving and hasn't yet happened again. I am thinking it's the intake flowing too much air, just a guess though?

I bought the AP brand new 4 days ago.

I do have a 1/4 mile race with a co-worker on Friday, do you think with the present set-up (high boosting) I am getting now; and if the eng. doesn't cut out on me, I will have a better 1/4 time??? :confused:

Dude, did you just change your sig? 18psi is right on the mark, the max boost for an STi. I could have sworn that there was nothing there before and I thought you had a WRX. LOL, sorry about the scare!

Check out the Cobb site, map notes, FAQ, all that jazz....

after my gauges and ap stage 2 went in, i took her out to pop her cherry...only problem is, i can't get it to boost higher than 0.8 kg/cm^2. :mad:


...and if my math is correct, that equates to a measily 11.3784 psi. :( I don't know what the deal is, but my car felt faster before the ap. Is there a specific time it needs to "learn" the new settings? Thanks in advance...i'm new to the world of ap. Oh, does this mean i'll need to go to the riskier map that cobb has??? BTW, i'm in cali so gas is piss-poor.


:confused: :confused: :confused: