The pictures speak for themselves;

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/8krmp.jpg

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/14mile.jpg

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/0-100.jpg

Mods;
Blizzak Revo1 snow tires
Full tank of gas (2.5gallons of Turbo Blue 110 leaded, remainder 93 octane)
Spare tire, Car Jack, tools, floor mats, etc...
For the 1/4 mile I had a passenger. Launched from 4000RPM, bogged down.
For the 0 - 60 I was by myself and launched harder. No appreciable tire spin either way since the roads were dry. Ambient temperature was high 20s Farenheit.

I never thought I would own something this fast while still in college!!! :banana:

More stuff on the car if you haven't seen already (http://www.powerlabs.org/jdmsubaru.htm)

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/stiic.jpg

ooooo better than sex?? I can't wait then till winter break when I do my v7 swap into my wrx :lol: :lol: :lol:

-Dan

ooooo better than sex?? I can't wait then till winter break when I do my v7 swap into my wrx :lol: :lol: :lol:

-Dan

Lol... Just can't let her read this..:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/discoverycar3.jpg

WOW would you look at the belt that lady is wearing.......LMFAO

The pictures say that you're using an S-AFC. Thats a no-no...

As much as those Apexi G-meter tests aren't really that accurate...that looks real nice.

WOW would you look at the belt that lady is wearing.......LMFAO

Lol... She's australian; she doesn't know whats fashionable here...
That chick is one of the producers for "One Step Beyond" on Discovery Channel; they were filming my car as part of an episode about me that will air next month :D

The pictures say that you're using an S-AFC. Thats a no-no...

As much as those Apexi G-meter tests aren't really that accurate...that looks real nice.

Its an S-AFC2; I bought it for its knock monitoring feature, but ended up using it in conjunction with my wideband Air/Fuel ratio meter and EGT gauge for some tuning. It works perfectly. Remember; this is not a US-Spec engine. JDM ECUs (at least older ones like my '99 Version 5) are a lot more tolerant to piggybacks.

Did you not do this before?

I am certain that I got my ecu pinout from your site.

Either way, luck you :)

Well the S-AFC2 is little more than a cool looking gadget that adjusts your MAF signal (which is a ****ty way to tune, wideband or not). A much better option is the GReddy eManage, while being a little more involved to install, it gives you control over timing, injector duty cycle, and also MAF correction. The eManage Ultimate also gives knock detection/correction, individual injector correction (plus and minus fuel, also) and a boatload of other features.

I've never heard of that show, but good for you. Also get that chick off your hood, she's scratching it. :lol:

Well the S-AFC2 is little more than a cool looking gadget that adjusts your MAF signal (which is a ****ty way to tune, wideband or not). A much better option is the GReddy eManage, while being a little more involved to install, it gives you control over timing, injector duty cycle, and also MAF correction. The eManage Ultimate also gives knock detection/correction, individual injector correction (plus and minus fuel, also) and a boatload of other features.

I've never heard of that show, but good for you. Also get that chick off your hood, she's scratching it. :lol:


Minor detail you forgot;
The Greddy e-manage costs about 6 times what I paid for that S-AFC.
The installation is nothing; I wired that entire engine myself by hand. Its just a matter of cost-benefit; the stock ECU does great for now and I don't have the money for a standalone, so the S-AFC2 is a good way of cheaply monitoring knock and doing minor adjustments to my air/fuel curve.
Sure, there are much better ways to do this, but you get what you can afford :D
BTW I wouldn't bother with e-manage in the first place; I can get an Apexi Power-FC for much less to do all the same things (AFR, ITC, Boost, etc etc) ;)

Minor detail you forgot;
The Greddy e-manage costs about 6 times what I paid for that S-AFC.
The installation is nothing; I wired that entire engine myself by hand. Its just a matter of cost-benefit; the stock ECU does great for now and I don't have the money for a standalone, so the S-AFC2 is a good way of cheaply monitoring knock and doing minor adjustments to my air/fuel curve.
Sure, there are much better ways to do this, but you get what you can afford :D
BTW I wouldn't bother with e-manage in the first place; I can get an Apexi Power-FC for much less to do all the same things (AFR, ITC, Boost, etc etc) ;)

Unless the S-AFC cost you less than a hundred bucks, I think you're mistaken. Besides, you at the minimum bought a JDM complete engine, a project you can't really do "on the cheap".

If the engine is stock, any adjustment to the MAF sensor you're making is semi-pointless. You can monitor knock with a TXS KnockLite ($120). Or since you have a wideband, you can get knock detection in the whole package with the TXS Tuner.

I don't know how the Apexi Power-FC works (since this is the first time hearing of it, must not be commonly used), but the eManage has been proven on many Subaru ECUs, including the new WRXs (even though its pointless with the UTEC), and I'm not sure what you mean by ITC

you can get s-afcII for 200...emanage is at least 2x that. If you lucky you can get power-fc for a little more then a emanage and it is way better. too bad they dont make um for the usdm subarus

I've seen cars go low 11s on an SAFC 1. There are better ways to tune... but for what it is, it can get the job done... the added benefits of the V.2 SAFC, in my mind, justify it IF you are not looking for ultimate power. running that set-up stock on a JDM ecu using the AFC to richen things up abit (JDM ecu's run A LOT of advance... while it would be better to back the timing off to avoid knock... running a little richer can have the same result) seems like a decent way to go to me. keep in mind that Turbo XS modeled there Dtec fuel computer off the SAFC... they made a butt-load of improvements... but the SAFC is the bench mark for piggy-back fuel control.

def

Unless the S-AFC cost you less than a hundred bucks, I think you're mistaken. Besides, you at the minimum bought a JDM complete engine, a project you can't really do "on the cheap".

If the engine is stock, any adjustment to the MAF sensor you're making is semi-pointless. You can monitor knock with a TXS KnockLite ($120). Or since you have a wideband, you can get knock detection in the whole package with the TXS Tuner.

I don't know how the Apexi Power-FC works (since this is the first time hearing of it, must not be commonly used), but the eManage has been proven on many Subaru ECUs, including the new WRXs (even though its pointless with the UTEC), and I'm not sure what you mean by ITC


The PowerFC is basically a standalone plug-in ECU made by Apex'i. It's wildly popular on older EJ series engines in other countries as well as many other makes. It's a very commonly used ECU, but not so much on Subarus in the US.

ITC was Apexi's old ignition timing controller. They stopped making it some time ago.

Ah, well the PowerFC being a standalone is infinitely better than any piggyback. Too bad its not availiable for USDM cars or they don't offer a wire-in version.

I work in a tuning shop, and we really dislike the S-AFC for tuning because its so limited and it just seems like a waste of money when you could spend a little bit more for better solutions.

better than sex foreal!!

'walks outside to kick his lame USDM swaped L'

dude, whatever, USDM swapped L is still sweet!!... as far as the SAFC-2 it definitely gets the job done... I watched it fix the AF ratio on this car at the touch of a switch and there is 0 knock right now... When all is said and done, if this setup is working for the goals you want to meet, why spend more? Anyway, with all of the features installed in powerlab's car for engine monitering I would have no fear of running the SAFC-2. Also, to it's credit, I had a friend running the stock ecu and the original SAFC on his open class 1g talon rally car (granted that's a different car with a much more mod-friendly ECU) but the point is, there are lots of people that know what they're doing tuning with these... if it works, that's all that counts. ALSO the 12.61 that sam ran in the quartermile was with a bad launch, snow tires, a passenger and a full tank of gas... not to mention it was on the low boost setting (read 15psi instead of 20-22 psi on high boost... I think this car has the potential to run low 12's to high 11's as it sits... only time will tell :)

Give the kid a freaking break about the AFC...it works fine with a stock engine/ecu and it doesn't seem like he's breaking hte bounds of practical horsepower anyway. Very nice times and look though :)

I don't know about the better than sex bit though :P

Running an S-AFC in a DSM is just silly. You can chip their stock ECU just as easily as a Honda's, for free too.

I would have been running an afc in my jdm swap but the ecu rejects it. And I out grew it fast meaning it can only do so much. Oh, and it is known to pull timing badly.

Do you go to Tech, NMU or Lake State? I'm an old Tech alum that got sick of shoveling snow.

Jimbo

Do you go to Tech, NMU or Lake State? I'm an old Tech alum that got sick of shoveling snow.

Jimbo

He's at Tech... as am I :)

I've already shoveled a few times this year... i'm happy about the whole having a garage thing though this year.

Nice work on the car, Sam... i also agree with Reid though... not so sure it's better than sex ;)

Very nice looking car. I'd like to see some dyno numbers too.

Are you still on the stock RS 5-speed?


-Graham

Very nice looking car. I'd like to see some dyno numbers too.

Are you still on the stock RS 5-speed?


-Graham

Yeah, I want dyno numbers too, but spending money on the dyno is not going to earn me anything (other than bragging rights, if that?) untill I have a means to tune the car.
Still on the stock RS 5 speed, now with a Spec Stage 3 6puck carbon/kevlar clutch (The exedy couldn't handle it) :eek:

sure the tranny can handle that??

def

sure the tranny can handle that??

def

Of course it can; I wouldn't have ran those times if it couldn't, would I? :D
That said, this is my 3rd tranny (broke the other 2 on the stock 2.5RS engine), so I know its just a matter of time. I'm saving up for a gearset or an STI tranny.

Of course it can; I wouldn't have ran those times if it couldn't, would I? :D
That said, this is my 3rd tranny (broke the other 2 on the stock 2.5RS engine), so I know its just a matter of time. I'm saving up for a gearset or an STI tranny.

:D :lol: :banana:

save up fast! ;)

def

:D :lol: :banana:

save up fast! ;)

def

Paypal donations are always welcome ;)

I'll give you my old gears after I get an RA gearset this summer :p

I'll give you my old gears after I get an RA gearset this summer :p

:furious:

damn bro id have to bitch slap any girl that sat on my car..

'walks outside to kick his lame USDM swaped L'
:lol:

At the moment feel the same way. I bought what I could afford when I did mine...I have more plans down the road for my car:devil:

let's just say I'll be buying a 6-spd drivetrain to hold the power...

No offense, bud, but if you broke two trannys on the 2.5 N/A motor, its time to learn stick.

To even claim that any sort of power short of triple or quadruple the stock output would shred gears, is insane. The only reason Subarus break trannys is because A) You launch with sticky tires from redline or B) You can't drive stick, see A.

No offense, bud, but if you broke two trannys on the 2.5 N/A motor, its time to learn stick.

To even claim that any sort of power short of triple or quadruple the stock output would shred gears, is insane. The only reason Subarus break trannys is because A) You launch with sticky tires from redline or B) You can't drive stick, see A.

No offense, bud, but untill you can drive 340HP for 7 months on stock gears, and do a 0-60 time in 4 seconds flat without breaking anything, I think you need to keep your condescending remarks and jealousy to yourself. ;)
While you're at it, N00B, keep you tips on engine management to yourself too. You don't even know what an Apexi PowerFC is and you're trying to school me on using an overpriced piggyback to do exactly the same thing I'm doing at less cost with the S-AFC2. :disco:

hey, don't knock on powerFC's they're great...

Wow, your stock 2.5 N/A motor put out 340HP and did 0-60 in 4 seconds flat? AMAZING! I should've bought an RS...

I'm not jealous, I'm just pointing out some facts. I enjoy breaking stereotypes, and disproving 'facts' because enough inept people drive Subarus, the car is to blame. Man, I keep doing dry donuts in my STi, and I spun a bearing? Must be a defect.
And before you say "I wasn't claiming that it was a defect", then why did your tranny break from 160hp of NA fury if it wasn't driver error? Magic perhaps?

Seems like in this case, double the member number means double the intelligence.

Because A'Pexi's products are largely crap, aside from the AVC-R, and I'm sure the VTec controller thingamajigs are quite excellent, I don't keep track of their catalog of parts offered for vehicles I don't have access to. Did you know that AEM makes a plug and play EMS for the WRX? Have you heard of an Autronic standalone? If you have, I don't care, because it doesn't say a thing about what you know.

Your car == cool.
Your management == stupid.
Your driving skills == sub par.
Your arguments == special needs.

One more thing, yes, either get a stronger tranny when you're running 340 hp (which you are not) and attempting to drag/street race, or don't do those things. Drag racing is lame anyway.

Ok, I'll jump in here and defend Powerlabs. First of all, his first tranny was actually a defect and not his fault at all. When his RS was still N/A it was pretty quick and provided a lot of power down low. This, associated with how hard he drives his car, created shock load which chewed away his gears. He wasn't really bragging that he's gone though 2 tranny's instead just telling whoever asked him about it that he's done it, and expects it to happen again. So get over your absurd knowledge of engine management and please just compliment the guy on the fast car that he has managed to put together with a relatively cheap budget. And I will say it's fast, I've been in it when he was running 19-22 psi.

Have a nice day :)

Well, with how absurd my knowledge is, the only reason the S-AFCII has knock detection is because when removing MAF signal to make the ECU remove fuel, and thus running leaner (therefore ideally producing more power), it also adds timing. So when you're removing fuel, and adding timing, its a receipe for some really bad knock. Now, if you were removing fuel, and removing timing (or leaving it alone, depending on the car's threshold for knocking), you'd be much better off. And pretty much any other form of piggyback does this.

But anyway, you create shock load by abusing your transmission during shifting or launching. This shock can be avoided and your tranny saved. You have to be doing some pretty bad things with a stock RS motor...considering I have friends pushing double the power through their stock RS gearboxes without a complaint, same with a WRX owner friend of mine.

man, you have WAY more patience then I would with all that wiring. Thats the 1 thing I hate most about cars is wiring.

Well, with how absurd my knowledge is, the only reason the S-AFCII has knock detection is because when removing MAF signal to make the ECU remove fuel, and thus running leaner (therefore ideally producing more power), it also adds timing. So when you're removing fuel, and adding timing, its a receipe for some really bad knock. Now, if you were removing fuel, and removing timing (or leaving it alone, depending on the car's threshold for knocking), you'd be much better off. And pretty much any other form of piggyback does this.

But anyway, you create shock load by abusing your transmission during shifting or launching. This shock can be avoided and your tranny saved. You have to be doing some pretty bad things with a stock RS motor...considering I have friends pushing double the power through their stock RS gearboxes without a complaint, same with a WRX owner friend of mine.

I agree with you on the whole s-afc thing, but for some people it works because if it didn't work, they would stop selling it. I know how the rs tranny is, I own one and I wouldn't say that I'm putting out double the power of the stock car, but my car is pretty quick and I agree that the tranny will hold up depending on how you use it. He drives aggressively, he breaks tranny's. It's not that he doesn't know how to drive, but he just abuses things. The never ending quest to be faster will always be a strain on something with the car, something has to give, and it happened to be his tranny. Ask anyone in the aftermarket forced induction forum about tranny breakage. It happens to the most random people pushing anywhere from 4-12 psi on the stock block and tranny and it happens to some n/a people. I have a paper to write so I'm not going to reply to this until later tonight. Have a good night and please respect how other people chose to live their lives :)

interesting place to mount ur siren lol.

u have cruise control too? interesting

That last little bit at the end isn't necessary, I don't care what you do, but one shouldn't assume they're always correct.

One golden bit of knowledge I garnered by talking to Joe P (of JoePMBC.com): "If your car was fast, you wouldn't need to break your tranny trying to go faster."

interesting place to mount ur siren lol.

u have cruise control too? interesting
that's what I thought....next thing you know he'll still have ABS ;)

I ditched my ABS and cruise for personal reasons but had to keep AC with out wonderful humidity

but one shouldn't assume they're always correct.

:lol:
the irony :rolleyes:

Well, with how absurd my knowledge is, the only reason the S-AFCII has knock detection is because when removing MAF signal to make the ECU remove fuel, and thus running leaner (therefore ideally producing more power), it also adds timing. So when you're removing fuel, and adding timing, its a receipe for some really bad knock. Now, if you were removing fuel, and removing timing (or leaving it alone, depending on the car's threshold for knocking), you'd be much better off. And pretty much any other form of piggyback does this.

But anyway, you create shock load by abusing your transmission during shifting or launching. This shock can be avoided and your tranny saved. You have to be doing some pretty bad things with a stock RS motor...considering I have friends pushing double the power through their stock RS gearboxes without a complaint, same with a WRX owner friend of mine.

Quoted for posteriority. Your complete ignorance as to how the most basic ECU piggyback works shows me that I would be wasting my time trying to argue with you... Lets see: S-AFC = Super AIRFLOW Converter... It:

1- "Removes MAF signal" (whatever that means)
2- "Runs leaner" (I thought it was adjustable? :lol: )
3- "Adds timing" (holy crap, I've been wanting to tune my ignition timing forever and appearently the S-AFC does it all by itself without the need for any kind of other engine management or piggyback :lol: )
4- "Causes knock" :lol:
Should tell all this to the millions of users out there... I guess you're going to tell me that my PLX Devices M-300 wideband Air/Fuel ratio monitor is lying too when it tells me I'm running stoich at cruise and idle and 11:1 at WOT with my current A-AFC based correction map?

I learned all sorts of other things from this thread too...

"If your car was fast, you wouldn't need to break your tranny trying to go faster."

"I'm not making 340HP"

Yeah, I should be right around 165, right? That's what the car made stock, after all... Funny how it didn't feel nearly as fast stock. Must be psychological. :rolleyes:

I also learned that I broke my transmission with a bone stock 2.5RS engine trying to drag race, and that drag racing is lame...

What a well of wisdom. You should stick to making posts about how
"the '02 RS you owned had a hole worn through the driver's seat from your fat ass getting in and out of the carw"
Because, when it comes to actual car knowledge, you're annoyingly ignorant.
I will have to ignore you now, because this post is to share with the Subaru community the latest results of my car tuning and testing, not to get into an argument about my "lack of horsepower, knowledge, and driving ability" with a 21 year old troll who signed up to the forums yesterday :rolleyes:
Please proceed to crawl back into the hole you came from.

that's what I thought....next thing you know he'll still have ABS ;)

I ditched my ABS and cruise for personal reasons but had to keep AC with out wonderful humidity

Now I'm jealous... Tim Sanderson worked some hardcore magic to make the power steering and cruise control work (ABS was a given :D ), but neither one of us could get the AC right...
The JDM compressor does not mate with the USDM lines.
The USDM compressor does not fit (too long, hits the manifold).
How did you do it? WRX compressor?

I just resigned to telling myself that it was weight reduction (car weights around 2820lbs fully loaded with 1/4 tank of gas)... Maybe next summer I'll give it another stab ;)

I'm on my 94 compressor...kinda hardwired...by passed a few things...but kept the low cut off switch in the system...had some help from speedyham in doing this...being we both had the same problem (me in my 94 and him in his 96 both on 02 usdm engines)
and am using the stock 94 compressor and yes the usdm compressor is indeed longer...the usdm lines to match up to my older compressor or my friends 96 compressor...

Quoted for posteriority. Your complete ignorance as to how the most basic ECU piggyback works shows me that I would be wasting my time trying to argue with you... Lets see: S-AFC = Super AIRFLOW Converter... It:

1- "Removes MAF signal" (whatever that means)
2- "Runs leaner" (I thought it was adjustable? :lol: )
3- "Adds timing" (holy crap, I've been wanting to tune my ignition timing forever and appearently the S-AFC does it all by itself without the need for any kind of other engine management or piggyback :lol: )
4- "Causes knock" :lol:
Should tell all this to the millions of users out there... I guess you're going to tell me that my PLX Devices M-300 wideband Air/Fuel ratio monitor is lying too when it tells me I'm running stoich at cruise and idle and 11:1 at WOT with my current A-AFC based correction map?

I learned all sorts of other things from this thread too...

"If your car was fast, you wouldn't need to break your tranny trying to go faster."

"I'm not making 340HP"

Yeah, I should be right around 165, right? That's what the car made stock, after all... Funny how it didn't feel nearly as fast stock. Must be psychological. :rolleyes:

I also learned that I broke my transmission with a bone stock 2.5RS engine trying to drag race, and that drag racing is lame...

What a well of wisdom. You should stick to making posts about how
"the '02 RS you owned had a hole worn through the driver's seat from your fat ass getting in and out of the carw"
Because, when it comes to actual car knowledge, you're annoyingly ignorant.
I will have to ignore you now, because this post is to share with the Subaru community the latest results of my car tuning and testing, not to get into an argument about my "lack of horsepower, knowledge, and driving ability" with a 21 year old troll who signed up to the forums yesterday :rolleyes:
Please proceed to crawl back into the hole you came from.


Holy crap, bitch, are you retarded? Do you have any clue as to how that doohicky in your car works? It doesn't magically add or subtract fuel buddy. Guess I gotta school you...

The S-AFC (and pretty much any "Airflow" converter) does just that..tricks your car into thinking it is receiving more, or less, air. In most (read: all) vehicles, the more air the ECU measures (from the MAF sensor, by the way, thats what measures air flow, ya know, mass air flow sensor), the injectors will increase their duty time and pulse width, providing more fuel. This is what happens when you press that ++ Fuel button on your fancy electronics that glows blue and looks cool to all the other boi racers.

Guess what? The exact opposite is true, if you tell your ECU it is receiving less air (telling the AFC you want less fuel, yeah there you go), it will give you less fuel.

Now, since you apparantly don't know, more fuel means richer, less fuel means leaner. Understand yet? Probably not, but oh well.

I bet you didn't know this other well-known fact. When you tell your ECU it is receiving less air, it will shift columns (hope I didn't lose you there) in the fueling table AND in the timing table. When there is less air involved, the ECU will increase timing (that is, fire the spark further away from top dead center), which can allow the spark to get out of hand and cause detonation (KNOCK!!!!111). So, besides running leaner (which, high school chemistry would teach you if you weren't busy smoking pot out back, generates more heat because the excess fuel does not cool the burn down, which allows for premature burning of fuel, especially under cylinder pressures from a turbo whose owner got too happy with the boost controller), and early spark ignition which can allow that controlled combustion in your cylinders to get a little out of control.

Now, since it appears with your more than safe (but you have the invincible S-AFCII, right? why be safe?) 'tune' at 11:1 AFR, you're not only losing power from overfueling, but you're SUBTRACTING timing, causing more power to be unused, which is the real ball breaker in this situation. Now, if only someone invented a device to change fuel at the injector level, and control ignition timing...oh wait I think its called every other piggyback ever made.

Are we done yet? Do I even need to argue that your stock JDM swap does not gain 50 horsepower because you have stickers and an S-AFC?

Seriously, you're just making yourself look bad here. I didn't say your car wasn't fast, I definitely didn't say you had 2.5RS power levels. You just have selective comprehension.

I'm so glad you had to look through my other post to find ammunition against me, really, how 7th grade of you. I'm pretty sure if I looked for dumb posts made by you, my head would a'splode. And how everything goes back to the fact that I joined yesterday, real lucid thinking to put together a cohesive argument.

Also, since you made a big deal about me being 21, you're 23 and still in college? :lol:

Good night.

I will have to ignore you now, because this post is to share with the Subaru community the latest results of my car tuning and testing, not to get into an argument about my "lack of horsepower, knowledge, and driving ability" with a 21 year old troll who signed up to the forums yesterday :rolleyes:
Please proceed to crawl back into the hole you came from.

Truth.

Puma, in reading post #41, it is worded in a way that makes it seem like you are saying that the SAFC is adding timing. Maybe my hooked on phonics is wearing off.
You guys should both chill and have a civil discussion about tuning. There's really no need on either part to be condescending or hostile. You're new here and we haven't gotten a chance to get to know you. Posts like the ones in this thread are really leaving a bad first impression, give us a chance to welcome you into the community. I'm sure you can make many positive contributions to the board but for now, I suggest easing up a bit. We like to share info and help each other out rather than browbeating others into submission. Powerlabs has already admitted that his management is less than ideal and will change as his finances allow for it.

Truth.

Said and done...
Oh boy, I can't resist though...
Allright, one more:

"When there is less air involved, the ECU will increase timing (that is, fire the spark further away from top dead center), which can allow the spark to get out of hand and cause detonation (KNOCK!!!!111). "

"KNOCK!!!!1111ONEONEONE!!

OMGHI2U!!!!!1111ONE! :lol: :lol: :lol:

And everything was going so well until "No offense bud..."
Whenever someone says that here, it can only end badly :(

Funny how things work out like that.

Now, since it appears with your more than safe (but you have the invincible S-AFCII, right? why be safe?) 'tune' at 11:1 AFR, you're not only losing power from overfueling, but you're SUBTRACTING timing, causing more power to be unused, which is the real ball breaker in this situation. Now, if only someone invented a device to change fuel at the injector level, and control ignition timing...oh wait I think its called every other piggyback ever made.
are you saying 11:1 is rich?

Seriously, you're just making yourself look bad here. I didn't say your car wasn't fast, I definitely didn't say you had 2.5RS power levels. You just have selective comprehension.

look at post 39

Just out of curiosity, what car do you have exactly puma? from what I found in your posts, a bugeye RS right? which probably means a N/A bugeye RS, which means you have no idea what is going on here.

Given powerlabs current setup, he's basically running what he can afford on the cheap. Hey, If I had just done a motor swap to the tune of $6000 or so, I wouldn't have any money left over for $3000 of EM. Especailly when the stock ECU will do just fine for (what I assume to be) a fairly stock motor (for japan). Add a little boost through an MBC, a little gas though a SAFC and your still in the range of safe, while still being under $400.

Oh, and if you respond at all, your being childish.

Also, since you made a big deal about me being 21, you're 23 and still in college? :lol:

Good night.
and the point here is??
he's doing his masters? had to have a job to pay for school so couldn't/didn't want to do full time?...there are tons of reasons...I won't be done with my masters until I'm 25...once again because I have taken a lighter load to work and to do FSAE...so what if he's 23

Just out of curiosity, what car do you have exactly puma? from what I found in your posts, a bugeye RS right? which probably means a N/A bugeye RS, which means you have no idea what is going on here.

Given powerlabs current setup, he's basically running what he can afford on the cheap. Hey, If I had just done a motor swap to the tune of $6000 or so, I wouldn't have any money left over for $3000 of EM. Especailly when the stock ECU will do just fine for (what I assume to be) a fairly stock motor (for japan). Add a little boost through an MBC, a little gas though a SAFC and your still in the range of safe, while still being under $400.



Well, everyone knows the adage, when you assume, you make an ass out of you and me. I said I used to have a bugeye. And besides, even if I did have an N/A car, it doesn't mean that I am retarded. I own a '91 Legacy Turbo. The only thing stock about it is the shortblock and the rusty chassis.

I don't know, I assumed too that when you spend 3 grand on an engine swap, part of the budget is for management, or you're leaving it stock, not using something thats detremental (read above).

Oh, and if you respond at all, your being childish.
:lol: This is great. Respond at all is being childish...if you log in to NASIOC you're a child molestor. Can I also make rediculous ultimatums about what you do?

are you saying 11:1 is rich?
It is getting there. You're not going to be pegged 11:1, you'll most likely be up and down from there, so under 11:1 is pretty rich. Ideally you want to tune to 12, or whatever your set up allows. Since its a stock engine, basically he should have left it alone without the S-AFC and would have a better mix.

Puma, in reading post #41, it is worded in a way that makes it seem like you are saying that the SAFC is adding timing.
When pulling fuel, an AFC will indirectly (via the ECU reacting to the lack of air being supplied it) add timing. When adding fuel, an AFC will indirectly remove timing. See my long post above.

and the point here is??
he's doing his masters? had to have a job to pay for school so couldn't/didn't want to do full time?...there are tons of reasons...I won't be done with my masters until I'm 25...once again because I have taken a lighter load to work and to do FSAE...so what if he's 23

Thanks for proving my point. So what if I'm 21? Apparantly that is vital information to consider when discussing tuning, as well as my member number.

No offense, bud, but untill you can drive 340HP for 7 months on stock gears, and do a 0-60 time in 4 seconds flat without breaking anything, I think you need to keep your condescending remarks and jealousy to yourself.
While you're at it, N00B, keep you tips on engine management to yourself too. You don't even know what an Apexi PowerFC is and you're trying to school me on using an overpriced piggyback to do exactly the same thing I'm doing at less cost with the S-AFC2.
By the way, this is where it went to hell. He got defensive/attacked me, so I had to fight back. I love it.

No offense, bud, but if you broke two trannys on the 2.5 N/A motor, its time to learn stick.

To even claim that any sort of power short of triple or quadruple the stock output would shred gears, is insane. The only reason Subarus break trannys is because A) You launch with sticky tires from redline or B) You can't drive stick, see A.

Yes, maybe this was taken the wrong way, an informative post gone wrong. However, if I was not correct, he wouldn't have gotten defensive.

/unsubscribe

Have a good Turkey Day, all! :banana:

unsubscribe? why? it was just getting good

I will bet anybody powerlabs does not have an STi ALUMINON Hood on his car!!!!!!

/unsubscribe

Have a good Turkey Day, all! :banana:
mabye he finally figured out what I meant by him being childish.

Trying to disprove proven facts=childish
Trying to prove a point to people who know that your wrong = childish
Saying that the only stock parts on a car are the chassis and block = childish (wow, nice steering colum).

Oh well, welcome to nabisco.

Wow...now I remember why I don't post anymore. Its sad when the ignorant outnumber the intelligent, and by mob mentality the ignorant have 'proven facts'.

What is he trying to disprove? Nothing..he is stating facts. I'd like to see you try and say any of that is incorrect, pretty sure you wouldn't know where to begin.

Do you know what the definition of childish is, Mr. Highschooler? :lol:

So, besides running leaner (which, high school chemistry would teach you if you weren't busy smoking pot out back, generates more heat because the excess fuel does not cool the burn down, which allows for premature burning of fuel, especially under cylinder pressures from a turbo whose owner got too happy with the boost controller), and early spark ignition which can allow that controlled combustion in your cylinders to get a little out of control.

Are we done yet? Do I even need to argue that your stock JDM swap does not gain 50 horsepower because you have stickers and an S-AFC?

Seriously, you're just making yourself look bad here. I didn't say your car wasn't fast, I definitely didn't say you had 2.5RS power levels. You just have selective comprehension.



alright just a few select things here...


1.)
in response to powerlabs not understanding High School chemistry, you pretty much picked the worst person on nasioc to say that to.

www.powerlabs.org

check the site, and grab a mirror to watch your face get red

2.) in response to his car not running 50 HP over stock... well, it's actually 60 HP over stock (if you remember elementary school math) 340-280= 60. When you consider it's running 5-7psi over stock on high boost, has full 3inch catless exhaust, turbo inlet elbow, larger USDM STI intercooler, and ported and polished exhaust and intake manis along with ported and knifedged throttle body and most likely a few other select goodies I'm missing, I find it hard to believe that it's not making 50-60hp over stock...

3.)selective comprehension, see website presented in point 1

Also, as an aside, in reference to the 23 year old in college remark there's just so much you're not taking into account. it's not written in stone anywhere that you MUST go to college straight out of HS and that you MUST graduate in 4 years... Furthermore, when it comes to grad schools and professional schools it's actually looked upon favorably to have some experience outside of college or university education...as a college student who is graduating in 4 years flat and who is accepted to the largest medical school in the country, I'm telling you that I know a lot of people who took a slightly different path through their education than I did. I have a great deal of respect for people who take a different path through higher ed. It takes a lot of courage and perserverence to break the typical HS-college-grad. school (one after the other in quick succession) sequence. More power to the people that do it!

at anyrate though puma... there's no need for anymore hostility on your part, or on ours/mine... in fact, I'm honestly curious about your turbo legacy... what's done to the car??? EJ22T I presume???

**************
tooocool49723 comment about the steering column = hilarious
**************
JDM importer: no, he doesn't have an STI aluminum hood, he does, however, have one of the best quality carbon fibre hoods I've ever seen:)*************

happy turkey day everyone!! we have a bunch of snow hear so the roads are a blast to drive on!!! dooorrrriiiiifffffftttttooooooo!!!

Thats great for him. Being on TV is not a credential, however. I don't care if he's both of the guys from MythBusters, people on TV are actors.

That's ricer math...add up your parts and come up with an arbitrary horsepower number. Yes, I know subtraction and math, apparantly you do too because you can add up TMIC + exhaust + 6 psi + ported intake manifold = 60 horsepower?

I haven't seen a dyno graph (from a REAL dyno, not A'Pexi g-meter bull****) and if I do, I shall eat my words. And even if he is pushing 340hp, it just proves my point that he should be using something more than an S-AFC.

Yes, yes, college education and all that. He attacked me for being 21, so I jabbed back. I'm an IT major (yes, IT) and having taken some Mech Engineering classes, I know more than 95% of the class. Good for me, right? My only point is: Your current major in college does not matter, your age does not matter, and those that use that as ammunition in their arguments are ignorant.

The steering column remark was stupid, that was considered part of the chassis and I should've known someone would take it literally. Parts of the interior is stock, the trunk is stock, the roof is stock, the doors are stock, the hood is stock, parts of the suspension is stock, and the chassis is stock. Happy? Oh and the driveshaft is stock.

Sick car dude Ive always loved it. Any new mods coming next?

Hi this is Kevin I have seen powerlabs site and it is way over my thread!



My statement was in Humor!

As there is a Girl on the HOOD!

I had not read the threads but now that Ive read them somthing went horriably wrong with this thread!

I know his car is cool, I was just commenting on

GIRL+ ALuminium HOOD= DISASTER! :lol:

e-manage is crap compared to a Power-FC. If I was in your shoes and had to do it all over again. I would either go unichip and buy one tuned for race gas and another for pump or get a real AEM like a power-fc or a AEM :lol:

FWIW: My 300whp, RS trans powered car survived fine thru my mad driving skillz. Many drag racing days and thats with double the power going to the ground. Trans was removed because now I am nearing the 400whp mark. Anyways, RS transmissions seem to be a crap shoot. A friend went thru 4 gearboxes and drives his car light. I relearned how to drive manual on this car and beat the hell out of it. Its now on its 3rd owner in a rally car :lol:

http://homepage.mac.com/importedgrey/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-02-03%2010.06.32%20-0800/DSC00858.JPG <-- dyno chart.

Kids grow up. Sounds to me like his car is making 340CHP. Which is perfectly possible. When I was still running the factory turbo/intercooler in my car. Running 14psi at redline I was producing 260whp. After drivetrain losses, we are getting close to what he is claiming for CHP. My car was also detuned to run 91oct. He is obviously not running 91oct...also his car has this nice thing called ignition advance. Something usdm cars don't have...unless your talking usdm STi, but its ignition advance is balls-less compared to the JDM ecu.

GIRL+ ALuminium HOOD= DISASTER! :lol:


LOL. How true. LOL.
I used my previous RS with alumn hood as a stepping stool to get on the roof of a friends house(got locked out)...lets just say. there were 2 nice dents about the size of my feet in the hood. :lol:

I really think we all need to simmer down a little bit and just accept that Sam's car is fast to his standards. I'll admit that when I first got my RS I thought it was the shizzy modizzle and I could beat anyone in a race. Is everyone happy now? I said shizzy modizzle on nasioc and it will never be let down :lol:

and by the way, I'm getting my butt kicked at richard burn's rally right now, what a great game! :banana:

JDM swap > RS-t ;)

Only post actually worth replying to (I said I was going to ignore the kid, and I am):

Sick car dude Ive always loved it. Any new mods coming next?

Well, its winter right now, so I have a skid plate comming next week, and I will also install some mud flaps soon. I might get Hella fog lamps if I can get a good deal on them too. Winter setup goes: Rear swaybar on lowest setting, KYB AGX shocks on softest setting, stock springs, and Blizzak Revo1 tires mounted on my gray powdercoated stock rims.

Come summer though, money permitting (always a big IF), I would like to do this, in the following order:

- Re-install my H&R sport lowering springs, roll fenders, stick some 245 width maximum performance summer rubber in there and re-align the car for agressive handling because I want to autox a lot.

- VF22 turbocharger, port matched to my ported up pipe and polished

- JDM STI transmission OR RA gearset (whatever provides the better cost/benefit ratio)

- Apexi Power FC + Dyno tune, or I'll drive to Quebec and have my ECU re-flashed (ECUTek) at the only place in North America that does '01 and under reflashes.

And that's it. I might tweak a little bit with the interior (JDM gauge cluster, different seats, that sort of stuff) and I also want to do a V6 STI front lip on the exterior, but the above should pretty much be it for what I want the car to do power wise. I have a friend running STOCK ECU with a boost controller and a VF 22 and he ran an 11.8 second 1/4 mile (ScoobySteve on this site). That's about as much performance as I could ever hope for from what is, after all, still my daily driver and only car... Can't go too crazy on it since I use it for getting to school every day and I'm always taking long interstate trips on it.

JDM swap > RS-t ;)

I hate you.



:banana:

Oh yeah, forgot this:

I will bet anybody powerlabs does not have an STi ALUMINON Hood on his car!!!!!!

Dude, its Carbon Fiber; Hard to damage (OT reference :D )

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/cfhood.jpg

I got a little pissed when I noticed the GF was wearing rings and a watch on top of my hood, but it didn't get scratched, which is good :D

I hate you.



:banana:


Should I post the video of you getting owned by JDM Turbo Power Kelly? :devil:

You know, sometimes jdm swaps don't always yield the best results in certain situations ;)

Sam, you should post the vid of how I got this :lol:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/snbrd4evr/IMG_0425.jpg

You know, sometimes jdm swaps don't always yield the best results in certain situations ;)

Sam, you should post the vid of how I got this :lol:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d11/snbrd4evr/IMG_0425.jpg

I hate you Kelly. You showoff :furious:

Just wait untill next year's autox season... :devil:

I know, I should put it away and stop talking about it. But seriously, post the vid :D

just joking... or am I ;)

Ok. so whats the story behind the "trophy" :lol:

Basically I posted the fastest time of the day at my first auto-x and beat sam by 5 seconds. But I need to stop bragging about it, so I'll leave it at that ;)

Must be some lousy sex, but nice car though.

Hey, nice car and apparently Yoshio in Toronto does JDM ECU tuning for older cars too. Save you a few 100 miles.

Hey, nice car and apparently Yoshio in Toronto does JDM ECU tuning for older cars too. Save you a few 100 miles.

I'd drive the extra 100 miles;)

in a straight line:

JDM STI RA swap > my measily stage 2ish wrx > RS-T


in autocross:

RS-T > stage 2ish wrx > JDM STI RA swap


Gravel punishing ability:

RS-T > stage 2ish WRX > JDM STI RA swap


in car owner jesus look alike contest:

RS-T > stage 2ish wrx and JDM STI RA swap (last two are tied)


Grocery getter and passenger carrying ability:

stage 2ish wrx > JDM STI RA swap and RS-T (swap and RS-T tied for second)




As everyone on nasioc knows, grocery getting ability is the most important quantifier of car coolness/performance... THUS I am clearly the coolest car owner in this contest :banana:

I see the RS-T winning 3 out of the 5 there so wouldn't I be the coolest? And the jesus lookalike should make me the clear winnar! :lol:

http://homepage.mac.com/importedgrey/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-02-03%2010.06.32%20-0800/frontpassangerquarter.jpg
Sorry, I think this contest goes to me. Now with .5L more powah! :lol:

Grocery getter and passenger carrying ability:

stage 2ish wrx > JDM STI RA swap and RS-T (swap and RS-T tied for second)




As everyone on nasioc knows, grocery getting ability is the most important quantifier of car coolness/performance... THUS I am clearly the coolest car owner in this contest :banana:


Hey now, at least my car starts when its cold... I *clearly* have Kelly beat in that department :disco:

First of all Doctornick, you have no say in this thread because you're not from up north :p

My car starts when it's cold, just not very well :lol:

I'll admit my car isn't very quick in a straight line, but thanks to low end torque and a nice suspesion, it does what I need it to do. Now to get the ej22t all built and then I can have some fun :D

I'll admit that when I first got my RS I thought it was the shizzy modizzle and I could beat anyone in a race. Is everyone happy now? I said shizzy modizzle on nasioc and it will never be let down :lol:

Quoted for posterity. :lol:

My car starts when it's cold, just not very well :lol:

Replace your coolant temp sensor? :)

Nah... it's just tuning the hydra. It gets really really cold where I live and standalone's don't like it. Eventually I'll figure it out. Thanks for the advice though :)

kelly's not joking.. he wears shorts and a tank top when it's -25C outside... jk

anyway though, I think you're right kelly... I only tease you about your beard because if I tried to grow one I'd look like Joe Dirt "you mean to tell me your hair just grows in all white trashy like that on it's own?"

Ew..Hydra. :(

Wow...now I remember why I don't post anymore. Its sad when the ignorant outnumber the intelligent, and by mob mentality the ignorant have 'proven facts'.

What is he trying to disprove? Nothing..he is stating facts. I'd like to see you try and say any of that is incorrect, pretty sure you wouldn't know where to begin.

Do you know what the definition of childish is, Mr. Highschooler? :lol:
I agree completely I just found personal attacks on both sides unnecessary and in poor taste...on both sides...
and yeah, he was just stating facts with tid bits of insult

I agree completely I just found personal attacks on both sides unnecessary and in poor taste...on both sides...
and yeah, he was just stating facts with tid bits of insult

I got an attitude, oh well. The interweb and such makes it look worse than I meant it. At first, anyway.

Nah... it's just tuning the hydra. It gets really really cold where I live and standalone's don't like it. Eventually I'll figure it out. Thanks for the advice though :)
I don't miss those days with my link...get out of class and cget ready to get the laptop out to tune for the ride home :lol:



and on a seperate note:
bump for another Sr. doing Mech. Eng.
but I have a minor in motorsports with mine :banana:


and on yet another seperate note:
FTD's are easy to get....in a formula SAE car :devil:

JDM swap > RS-t ;)


Ahem...USDM swap > JDM swap :)

I just spent 20 minutes reading this thread and all I have to say is lets just get along and pass knowledge, not bitch at each other...we're all Subie owners we need to stick together...teehee.

Only post actually worth replying to (I said I was going to ignore the kid, and I am):



Well, its winter right now, so I have a skid plate comming next week, and I will also install some mud flaps soon. I might get Hella fog lamps if I can get a good deal on them too. Winter setup goes: Rear swaybar on lowest setting, KYB AGX shocks on softest setting, stock springs, and Blizzak Revo1 tires mounted on my gray powdercoated stock rims.

Come summer though, money permitting (always a big IF), I would like to do this, in the following order:

- Re-install my H&R sport lowering springs, roll fenders, stick some 245 width maximum performance summer rubber in there and re-align the car for agressive handling because I want to autox a lot.

- VF22 turbocharger, port matched to my ported up pipe and polished

- JDM STI transmission OR RA gearset (whatever provides the better cost/benefit ratio)

- Apexi Power FC + Dyno tune, or I'll drive to Quebec and have my ECU re-flashed (ECUTek) at the only place in North America that does '01 and under reflashes.

And that's it. I might tweak a little bit with the interior (JDM gauge cluster, different seats, that sort of stuff) and I also want to do a V6 STI front lip on the exterior, but the above should pretty much be it for what I want the car to do power wise. I have a friend running STOCK ECU with a boost controller and a VF 22 and he ran an 11.8 second 1/4 mile (ScoobySteve on this site). That's about as much performance as I could ever hope for from what is, after all, still my daily driver and only car... Can't go too crazy on it since I use it for getting to school every day and I'm always taking long interstate trips on it.
Sounds kick ass, cant wait to see some times and graphs

Ahem...USDM swap > JDM swap :)



Erm, 227hp stock > 280HP stock + larger turbo, higher flowing heads, more agressive cams, forged internals, 8250RPM redline?

Unless you mean USDM STI, in which case I would have to ask:
Extra weight + extra 20hp (stock) + extra wiring + extra 3000 dollars > cheaper, lighter, easier to wire in?

JDM is the way to go, every time. Stronger, higher reving, more durable and capable of making more power, at half the cost. The only time you would ever want to start considering a USDM swap is if you had strict emissions laws to pass.

Ahem...USDM swap > JDM swap :)

I just spent 20 minutes reading this thread and all I have to say is lets just get along and pass knowledge, not bitch at each other...we're all Subie owners we need to stick together...teehee.
oh c'mon, this is nabisco, noone gets along.

and actually, I do have a friend who wears shorts year round. 4.0 genius that's going to U of M right now. He walks around downtown ann arbor at night in the middle of winter in shorts. crazy sob.

<-- lives south of all you techies, but still in northern michigan.

Toocool, I never see you over here as often, even though I'm the newbie...haha (I'm subyroo over at rs25). I know you guys all suck over here and talk **** and stuff, jk. I'm one of those dudes too I can wear shorts anytime of year and I live in WA... :banana:
/rant

Powerlabs, I wasn't talking about a USDM WRX to JDM WRX, I was speaking of the EJ257, much better than a EJ20. The JDM motors are great. I've driven an RS with a swap done and although they feel laggy under 4K, the upper revs pulls hard. I have respect for people who have gone this route as for a per dollar swap and simpler wiring there's no comparison. For the way I drive I need that low end torque (autocrossing type driving) and I can vouche for the extra half liter it's almost necessary. When I swapped my RS it felt much quicker than the JDM motors (stock of course) and it's much easier to get parts in US, that's why I chose to spend a little bit more cash up front as opposed to searching for parts later. Not everyone wants just the USDM STi swap for emissions reasons ;) I really enjoy you're swap though it's beautiful, congrats on the swap and tune.

PS - My next USDM RSTi is coming soon too. Oh yeah and I'm 20 so I'm ignorant just for the record, jk :lol:

Toocool, I never see you over here as often, even though I'm the newbie...haha (I'm subyroo over at rs25). I know you guys all suck over here and talk **** and stuff, jk. I'm one of those dudes too I can wear shorts anytime of year and I live in WA... :banana:
/rant

Powerlabs, I wasn't talking about a USDM WRX to JDM WRX, I was speaking of the EJ257, much better than a EJ20. The JDM motors are great. I've driven an RS with a swap done and although they feel laggy under 4K, the upper revs pulls hard. I have respect for people who have gone this route as for a per dollar swap and simpler wiring there's no comparison. For the way I drive I need that low end torque (autocrossing type driving) and I can vouche for the extra half liter it's almost necessary. When I swapped my RS it felt much quicker than the JDM motors (stock of course) and it's much easier to get parts in US, that's why I chose to spend a little bit more cash up front as opposed to searching for parts later. Not everyone wants just the USDM STi swap for emissions reasons ;) I really enjoy you're swap though it's beautiful, congrats on the swap and tune.

PS - My next USDM RSTi is coming soon too. Oh yeah and I'm 20 so I'm ignorant just for the record, jk :lol:

what makes the ej257 better than the ej20(unless you're talking about the US wrx)? Even the jdm ej205's have bigger port heads than the USDM sti. And how is it so hard to find parts for the JDM ej20s(unless you have have a pre v6 sti)?Just wondering

what makes the ej257 better than the ej20(unless you're talking about the US wrx)? Even the jdm ej205's have bigger port heads than the USDM sti. And how is it so hard to find parts for the JDM ej20s(unless you have have a pre v6 sti)?Just wondering
I'm talking USDM WRX yes, I'm was just stating that the 257 has better torque down low and that's what I crave/need. I'm not saying one engine is better than another engine, there's way too many arguments at hand since most Subaru engines have great potential. As far as the JDM parts I've always been told by some great Subaru tuners that if you need parts sometimes it's just the little things like sensors and such that can be hard to find. I'm not arguing with anything you guys have been saying I'm just stating that I've driven 7 RS's, two with USDM WRX swap and two with USDM STi swap, and one of them being a JDM WRX swap, and with my driving style I prefer the drive better that's all. Happy turkey-day!

(was typing this when the above post was made)

I belive he was talking about the US WRX, but I could be wrong. also, if you break a part on a JDM ej20, and they didn't sell that same part over here (for instance, the valvetrain) then you'd have to order parts from japan for it, which is more expensive shipping wise. However, there are many parts that swap over, and many mfg. and importers exist, it's just more of a hassle than going to the dealer and ordering up a part.

Oh, and i'm usually only in MWIC and the electrical forum, but I saw 2.5rs and powerlabs' name, so I decided i'd click on in here.

Ew..Hydra. :(


It's really not too bad. The base map I started with was a little rough because of the differences in different rs-t setups. But when it's running, it's awesome and totally quick downlow (helps for auto-x). Someday I'll figure out the cold start thing and everyone will be happy :)


and for the dfl bastage ;)
I'm going to shave the beard tonight just for you and mail you the leftover facial hair :lol:

Erm, 227hp stock > 280HP stock + larger turbo, higher flowing heads, more agressive cams, forged internals, 8250RPM redline?

Unless you mean USDM STI, in which case I would have to ask:
Extra weight + extra 20hp (stock) + extra wiring + extra 3000 dollars > cheaper, lighter, easier to wire in?

JDM is the way to go, every time. Stronger, higher reving, more durable and capable of making more power, at half the cost. The only time you would ever want to start considering a USDM swap is if you had strict emissions laws to pass.
Unless running a gt35r the 2.5L or maybe a 2.0 with a 2.2L stroker would be allright if your ok with the lag.
edit: Then again you wouldnt need such a large turbo in a GC8 that comment only applyies to 02's and up :D

Let me guess, from Element? Buddy with EJ22T/SOHC RS heads got his Hydra..nothing but trouble. Kept sending him completely wrong base maps despite being guaranteed when he bought it it will be plug and play and go.

But then again I doubt you bought it from Element, because his was so locked down, he needed a seperate password to do anything.

Unless running a gt35r... Then again you wouldnt need such a large turbo in a GC8 that comment only applyies to 02's and up :D

Ehem.... ;)

Unless you mean USDM STI, in which case I would have to ask:
Extra weight + extra 20hp (stock) + extra wiring + extra 3000 dollars > cheaper, lighter, easier to wire in?

Pretty sure the ej257 is not any heavier....unless you're dragging trannies into the discussion.

Louis

Yeah, I got it from Phil. The problem was the fuel pressure issue. The right size injectors, but wrong fuel pressures. It took a little coaxing, but the thing started up and I drove it 500 miles home from where we installed everything so I guess there was something right. It really all depends on the random modifications to the car. Oh well, I think we are both in consensus that standalone's are tough and require constant maitenance... kinda sucks because we love power and sometimes need to deal with it :)

from one college student to another, where the H3!! do you get all the money?!!!

Are you asking Sam or me?

LOL, I think all 4 of us are college students with money pits :lol:

college student with money pit checking in:-P

LOL, I think all 4 of us are college students with money pits :lol:

So true! And you haven't seen my saltwater fish tank :rolleyes:

I got issues.

Do you like your cardboard box?

I have no idea what you're talking about. :lol:

I really think we all need to simmer down a little bit and just accept that Sam's car is fast to his standards. I'll admit that when I first got my RS I thought it was the shizzy modizzle and I could beat anyone in a race. Is everyone happy now? I said shizzy modizzle on nasioc and it will never be let down :lol:

and by the way, I'm getting my butt kicked at richard burn's rally right now, what a great game! :banana:

agreed

yeah yeah, I'm so screwed for saying that. And it's waaay too late for editing it :(

So true! And you haven't seen my saltwater fish tank :rolleyes:

I got issues.
you still haven't seen my drumset or my mountain bike...the other toys are all under 1k a piece so they don't matter... :p

wow I have expensive hobbies

and I don't think any of us need to mention gf's being we all know they take money :lol:

yeah yeah, I'm so screwed for saying that. And it's waaay too late for editing it :(
lololol

speaking of old hobbies, any one play tennis that would like to buy a stringing machine?

speaking of old hobbies, any one play tennis that would like to buy a stringing machine?

LOLOLOL!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:



wait, are you serious? :)

I was waiting for that :lol:

So hoxypad wanna race stock turbo or aftermarket turbo?

JDM STi vs USDM STi?

college student with money pit checking in:-P
ditto.

Shut up man I hate you!!!!!!!!11!111 :)
I would if I could but I can't so...well you get the point.
My new RSTi is waiting for you though, give me two months.


So hoxypad wanna race stock turbo or aftermarket turbo?

JDM STi vs USDM STi?
And yes we'll race stock first and aftermarket second.

How about you run yours at the track stock and then when you think you're modded enough to race then we'll get it on...

I dunno if I wanna wait on you to put the bigger turbo on my car :lol:

LOLOLOL!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol:



wait, are you serious? :)
of course, it's a gamma 6000 or something. forgot the model number. cost like 1500 new. been taking up space at my house. you interested?:-P

Do you like your cardboard box?


Hey now...
You can sleep in your car, but you can't drive your house! :lol:

On a serious note though... I worked 7 months on a Nuclear Power Plant (and picked up 27MilliRems :D ) as a Co-Op student to pay the car and N/A mods. Then when the engine blew up I sold off all my N/A mods to pay for the swap. I also worked this summer at Universal Studios and made some decent $$$ off that.
Had I not needed brakes, tires, clutch, exhaust, suspension and some other goodies, and had I not bought a brand new notebook computer, I probably would be about even. As-is though, I'm in the hole :(
Every time I start thinking about selling the car I go for a drive and realize that, credit card bills aside, its well worth it! :banana:

Plus, in all honesty, what car could I possibly buy for less than twice the cost that would approach this level of all-around performance? :D

Plus, in all honesty, what car could I possibly buy for less than twice the cost that would approach this level of all-around performance? :D

An SRT-4? :lol:

A 600cc crotch rocket

A 600cc crotch rocket


Sounds good. Show me one that does this and I'll trade you my car for it ;)

http://www.powerlabs.org/images/05snow1.jpg

Same deal for the turbo neon... Erm... SRT-4 :D

A 600cc crotch rocket

Ted, you have to remember to read what I answered to. He said, what car not what bike :lol: :lol: :lol:

Ted, you have to remember to read what I answered to. He said, what car not what bike :lol: :lol: :lol:


Kelly, go to sleep! :lol:

Kelly, go to sleep! :lol:

yeah kelly, go to sleep!! you need rest so we can play muchos xbox tomorrow!

FINE FINE FINE!!!! I'm going to sleep because the crazy gf wants me to turn the tv down and go have some fun ;)

night biatches! :banana:

Its funny how he calls his left hand his girlfriend.

yeah that is quite amusing ;)

Its funny how he calls his left hand his girlfriend.

Ahhhh.... ya got me! ;)

Ehem.... ;)


Louis
Thats just crazy. What do you run in the quarter mile by the way?

Your car is what i'm looking to do to mine....one of these days....

Running an S-AFC in a DSM is just silly.

:lol: Thats downright sig material right there.

No offense, bud, but untill you can drive 340HP for 7 months on stock gears, and do a 0-60 time in 4 seconds flat without breaking anything, I think you need to keep your condescending remarks and jealousy to yourself. ;)
While you're at it, N00B, keep you tips on engine management to yourself too. You don't even know what an Apexi PowerFC is and you're trying to school me on using an overpriced piggyback to do exactly the same thing I'm doing at less cost with the S-AFC2. :disco:

haah puma = own3d

:lol: Thats downright sig material right there.

Wow..you guys jump on the bandwagon late.

DSM chips are cheap (or free if you're smart), so using an S-AFC is dumb.

Porsche914boxer4: Postwhore much? Really benefitting the thread with that garbage.

actually I do. thanks though noob!



bribe someone for a lower member number. 100K + makes me want to throw up.

S-afc seems to work fine with my friends EVO 8. :shrug:

btw.

AEM on DD in the northern part of the world = hardcore :lol:

Wow..you guys jump on the bandwagon late.

DSM chips are cheap (or free if you're smart), so using an S-AFC is dumb.

Porsche914boxer4: Postwhore much? Really benefitting the thread with that garbage.


Yeah, but back in the day when they were still somewhat new on the streets...an safc was the cream of the crop. Anytime you saw them in magazines or anything you always saw safc's, so its a stereotype that is being played into(which isnt that inaccurate).

Very nice looking car. I'd like to see some dyno numbers too.

Are you still on the stock RS 5-speed?


-Graham


thats what i was gonna ask nice ride

actually I do. thanks though noob!



bribe someone for a lower member number. 100K + makes me want to throw up.

You make me sick because member # is all that matters to you, so you hide behind it.

Thank you Swine. :banana:

DoctorNick: It 'works' but not well, and is could be detremental. There's a lot better solutions for a little more money...all I'm saying is, if you can't afford something good at the moment, don't cheap out, and if you can't afford isomething better period, maybe look into a different hobby.

I don't know.. .I don't know a lot of people that cheap out on well built open class rally cars... considering his car lights up all 4 tires on pavement without even blinking I'm going to consider the SAFC-2 a legitimate EM setup until I see otherwise... I know of two REALLY fast cars running it with great results and no problems to date... keep in mind that both of those cars are driven very hard, and one of them is a full out open class rally car... he's been running the same engine making ~400hp for the last few years and even with the new restrictor requirements is still making over 300...

on an unrelated note, if the previous post asking about stock transmission was in reference to powerlabs car, yes it's still running the stock RS 5 speed

:)

I ran the stock RS five speed with no problems with well over 300hp, it can handle much more power than the stock WRX tranny in most opinions...powerlabs...what kinda clutch setup are you using? Sorry if this was already covered.

STi RA motors = kickass

PumaTurbo, I'm actually the one who posted about the AFC's in DSMs being a joke and quoted you...my little brother (swine) happened to be logged in and I didn't realize it.

Anyway, you do know that all your emanage is doing is the EXACT same thing the AFC does right? The Emanage just also has crank signal offset so it can control timing as well (if you have the harness, etc for it). Same goes for the UTEC (to some extent) and the Xede. Massaging the MAF signal is what most/all of these piggybacks do in part.

Anyway, an AFC is not a crap mod on a DSM or an Evo for that matter. It actually makes as much of a difference as a flash, just not quite the TQ a flash can generate. Many people trap as fast or faster in their Evo's with just AFCs on the stock ECU than people who are custom flashed for their exact mods. Its quite a great investment even if you have a reflash as well if you run race fuel and high boost.

I ran the stock RS five speed with no problems with well over 300hp, it can handle much more power than the stock WRX tranny in most opinions...powerlabs...what kinda clutch setup are you using? Sorry if this was already covered.


I am running a Spec Stage 3 clutch. It is a Carbon / Kevlar 6 puck. I believe the specs are: 2600lb pressure plate, 505ft/lbs rated torque. It is streetable, the pedal is not too heavy though it is really notchy. The clutch never slips from a roll like the Exedy did, but when launching, if I try to slip the clutch for more than a fraction of a second, it will overheat (that's what I assume it is doing) and completely slip into oblivion; the pedal will just stay down and the car won't move... I don't like it at all. Launching basically requires me to drop the clutch or ease out of the hole; I can't rev high, start slipping the clutch to engage the gears and then drop it.
The 12.6 second 1/4 mile was done by launching from 4000RPM. It bogged.
The 0 - 60 was a very careful sidestep from 6000RPM with handbrake (rally style). I don't intend on repeating it!

A418t81, good info on the AFC on DSM's !! sometimes I wish I had an EVO or an eclipse/talon/laser... I envy their ECU's...

PumaTurbo, I'm actually the one who posted about the AFC's in DSMs being a joke and quoted you...my little brother (swine) happened to be logged in and I didn't realize it.

Anyway, you do know that all your emanage is doing is the EXACT same thing the AFC does right? The Emanage just also has crank signal offset so it can control timing as well (if you have the harness, etc for it). Same goes for the UTEC (to some extent) and the Xede. Massaging the MAF signal is what most/all of these piggybacks do in part.

Anyway, an AFC is not a crap mod on a DSM or an Evo for that matter. It actually makes as much of a difference as a flash, just not quite the TQ a flash can generate. Many people trap as fast or faster in their Evo's with just AFCs on the stock ECU than people who are custom flashed for their exact mods. Its quite a great investment even if you have a reflash as well if you run race fuel and high boost.

No, sorry, you're incorrect about the eManage. The eManage is not affecting MAF sensor voltage in any way, like the S-AFC which is highly regarded as unsafe/unreliable to any real tuners. The eManage is directly affecting the duty cycle of the injectors (if one has the injector harness, which they would be dumb if they did not). The eManage can act like an S-AFC and modify MAF voltage...but then whats the point? Thats only good for larger injector compensation, which is really the only acceptable use for an S-AFC, but again the topic starter is stock.

puma, I thought you unsubscribed from this thread a long time ago?

puma, I thought you unsubscribed from this thread a long time ago?

It keeps popping up on the first page, guess I just like watching the Special Olympics.

guess I just like watching the Special Olympics.
you know that includes you too right ;)

you know that includes you too right ;)


count it :P

oh c'mon, this is nabisco, noone gets along.

and actually, I do have a friend who wears shorts year round. 4.0 genius that's going to U of M right now. He walks around downtown ann arbor at night in the middle of winter in shorts. crazy sob.

<-- lives south of all you techies, but still in northern michigan.


Ann Arbor? Bah, it's not even cold OR snowy down there.

That's why real men jump out of their WRX's in Houghton in sandals and a pair of shorts :)

Or really crazy ones...

did I wander into OT? :p

Do you mind me asking how much the swap cost? Ive got a friend with an RS who is itching to do a swap but the price tag on V7 and V8 engines scare him I think...

Tell him to look for local usdm wrx or sti engines, thats my plan

and its pretty cheap

I think a USDM WRX engine would be a step back in his mind, lol.

But why do you think it will be cheaper locally? Are you just talking about shipping costs?

uhh, I wasn't talkin to the guy that started the thread, actually i have no idea who i was talking to.. musta been someone earlier in the thread

what is this about cheaping out on parts when building a car but you use an Emanage to run your system?:huh:

This is another example of mods really not giving a crap about PPB, I wish they would move this...

Ben

uhh, I wasn't talkin to the guy that started the thread, actually i have no idea who i was talking to.. musta been someone earlier in the thread

mkay, im lost

did I wander into OT? :p

Do you mind me asking how much the swap cost? Ive got a friend with an RS who is itching to do a swap but the price tag on V7 and V8 engines scare him I think...

The engine itself was around $3K shipped, but when its all said and done the swap cost over $5k since you need exhaust, brakes, new swaybar, and I also did suspension, gauges, etc etc...

#1: holy **** at member numbers over 100k. Im still anewbie. I don't post much here.
#2: I agree an safc on a DSM is dumb nowadays. You can reflash your own rom just too easily... I mean there are web pages where you input parameters that spit out rough tunes for you.. rediculous....
#3: Emanage affects injector duty cycle only when you use the additional injection fuel map. So if you swap out your 280cc RS injectors and run 440 or 550's with the injector size correction tool, your air signal is screwed with, and your ignition timing is screwed with. If you alter the fueling with the air flow map at all, obviously it screws with the timing..
#4: powerlabs - are you the nutcase who is always playing with capacitor banks and rail guns? If so I am very jealous.. (http://www.powerlabs.org/ )

how much was the swap?

The engine itself was around $3K shipped, but when its all said and done the swap cost over $5k since you need exhaust, brakes, new swaybar, and I also did suspension, gauges, etc etc...
12345

#1: holy **** at member numbers over 100k. Im still anewbie. I don't post much here.
#2: I agree an safc on a DSM is dumb nowadays. You can reflash your own rom just too easily... I mean there are web pages where you input parameters that spit out rough tunes for you.. rediculous....
#3: Emanage affects injector duty cycle only when you use the additional injection fuel map. So if you swap out your 280cc RS injectors and run 440 or 550's with the injector size correction tool, your air signal is screwed with, and your ignition timing is screwed with. If you alter the fueling with the air flow map at all, obviously it screws with the timing..
#4: powerlabs - are you the nutcase who is always playing with capacitor banks and rail guns? If so I am very jealous.. (http://www.powerlabs.org/ )

Yep, that's me :D

Yep, that's me :D

Last time I was there we took a bunch of fun chemicals and put them in a model rocket. It was tons of fun watching it blow up near the river and having it echo across Houghton at 3 in the morning :lol:

Did the 5k you spent includes tranny?

Very nice looking car. I'd like to see some dyno numbers too.

Are you still on the stock RS 5-speed?


-Graham

Still on the stock RS 5 speed, now with a Spec Stage 3 6puck carbon/kevlar clutch (The exedy couldn't handle it) :eek:

read read read :)

sorry, people keep asking questions that have already been answered on page 1.

RANDOM UNRELATED POST:

Houghton, MI rally cross coming up soon!!! kelly and sam, you better be there!!

No, sorry, you're incorrect about the eManage. The eManage is not affecting MAF sensor voltage in any way, like the S-AFC which is highly regarded as unsafe/unreliable to any real tuners. The eManage is directly affecting the duty cycle of the injectors (if one has the injector harness, which they would be dumb if they did not). The eManage can act like an S-AFC and modify MAF voltage...but then whats the point? Thats only good for larger injector compensation, which is really the only acceptable use for an S-AFC, but again the topic starter is stock.

Perhaps if you have the injector harness its not intercepting and manipulating the MAF signal, but the Xede and the UTEC, both fairly regarded for being pretty good tuning devices, do the same thing an AFC does fuel-wise (except when obviously the UTEC is driving the injectors directly which isn't all the time, usually).

Anyway, we agree to disagree. An AFC isn't a wonderful all in one tuning device but it makes for a GREAT fine-tuner on an Evo/DSM and I guess it'll take you getting blown off the road by a "fake" tuner with an AFC to change your mind ;)

That's impressive man...nice job.

read read read :)

sorry, people keep asking questions that have already been answered on page 1.

Maybe he bought the complete motor with tranny and sold the tranny to come out with 5k total.

ahhhh.... I see what you were asking, sorry about that :o

Maybe he bought the complete motor with tranny and sold the tranny to come out with 5k total.

I see. Nah, if I had an STI tranny you can be sure I would be keeping it. The motor itself, with *everything*, was around $3K. Fineline imports gave me a killer deal including turbo, ECU, Walbro 255 fuel pump, intercooler, wiring harness, crossmemeber, and they even threw in some JDM WRX vented rear brakes (complete assembly, rotors, calipers, pads, etc). All I had to get extra to drive away with the swap was an exhaust, and for $400 I got a full 3" Stainless Steel warrantied turboback with uppipe off ebay.
With the money I made selling off my various N/A mods (I had just about every single bolt on anyone offers for the EJ25, and all really good stuff) I though I was going to pull it off for no more than 1 grand... However, as anyone who has ever done a swap will tell you, things always come up and you always end up spending more than you wanted to:
First my swaybar bushings tore off because it wasn't compatible with the stock front crossmember... So in goes a Cusco 21mm front swaybar with polyurethane bushings and whiteline heavy duty endlinks.
Now I've got a big front swaybar, so I got a Whiteline adjustable rear swaybar with polyurethane bushings and heavy duty endlinks.
The bigger bar tends to break the rear mounts, so I got whiteline heavy duty rear swaybar mounts too...
Then after my first "spirited run" I realized that my Brembo cross drilled rotors, stainless steel brake lines and PBR brake pads were not going to cut in... So in goes WRX front brakes, Motul 600F brake fluid, and Carbotech BobCat brakes all around...
Now I find myself driving faster so the stock suspension is starting to become a problem... In go KYB AGX shocks and H&R springs...
Then my clutch failed, so I had to get a Spec Stage 3...
The brakes still weren't sufficient, so I got 4 pots for the front...
Then for good measure I threw in:
STI intercooler (trying to keep the intake charge cooler since JDM engines like to knock on 93 octane)
Gauges (EGT, Knock, AFR)
S-AFC 2,
Removed the governor with the Rev/SPeed meter,
Ported and polished the throttle body, intake manifold and exhaust headers,
Wrapped the headers, up pipe and downpipe
Replaced the turbo inlet for a silicone piece
Replaced coolant hoses for silicone,
Put strut bars in, and I'm sure I've forgotten a buch of stuff... Its still not perfect, but its pretty damn good for a project under my University student budget :D

So you're willing to sell me the wrx brakes then, right? ;)

brakes are overrated... do what sam does and use snowbanks and the ditches on the sides of the road to slow your car down :P

(that's only when the roads are really icey though :) )

So you're willing to sell me the wrx brakes then, right? ;)

Sure! Wanna trade them for the front skid plate?

The CarboTech Bobcat pads cost me $99 + shipping and the WRX caliper brackets cost $120 + shipping... Killer deal ;) And they're go-fast red! :devil:

brakes are overrated... do what sam does and use snowbanks and the ditches on the sides of the road to slow your car down :P

(that's only when the roads are really icey though :) )

That only works with you in the car egging me on, Reid :D
Next time I will try and use the Reid method of stopping; go off the road at a tangent into deep snow untill car plows enough snow in front of bumper to stop. Hey, its $65 cheaper than a tow :banana:

brakes are overrated... do what sam does and use snowbanks and the ditches on the sides of the road to slow your car down :P

(that's only when the roads are really icey though :) )


:lol: :lol: :lol:

Hey, just wanted to let you know with all this snow talk... i can make it up hills once again an my beautiful RE92s... they work much better than nitto extreme zrs do... at least in snow :)

wow thats awesome to see it all complete. a long time ago i read your website about doign a swap and it partially convinced me to do my swap. of course, i had no RS, i had no money, and i got a legacy turbo motor instead of JDM, but still i didnt know that was you!
right on man, discovery channel huh? whens that airing!?

Lol... Just can't let her read this..:
http://www.powerlabs.org/images/discoverycar3.jpg

Nothings bettern sex. How's that aluminum hood holding up with all that casual lounging? :lol:

Not sure if this question have been asked, but how often do you launch your car or drop the clutch?

Not sure if this question have been asked, but how often do you launch your car or drop the clutch?

I dropped the clutch once when the car was stock almost 2 years ago and that convinced me not to do it again. It felt terrible :eek:
What you really want to ask me is how often I launch since the swap. I think I have launched it perhaps 5 times since the swap with the new clutch, and once with the old clutch. Out of these 5 launches the clutch slipped horribly and did not grab on two of them.
Now that its winter I can actually drop the clutch and not worry about it since the roads are always slippery, but I don't count that. :D

Re: Hood; Its a VIS Carbon Fibre Hood.

Re Discovery Channel; airs this month. I have to find out the exact date for the US still though.

Hey I happen to be Phil Jr.'s friend who is itchin' for a swap. Nice work on the car man... I plan to do a Ver 8 jdm swap along with the 6mt, and this is def going to rip a huge hole in my pocket. Any advice for me?

Do you have a time/date when your on TV yet?

Just curious,
Greg

Its been pushed back into next year. Probably May 06. I will post as soon as they tell me :)

what clutch are you running? i'm doing a ver 8 swap in my car right now, 2000 RS with a stock tranny. - IC

seems like no matter how beefy of clutch people buy, if you up the boost at all the clutch begins to slip on the RS tranny.... the turbo clutches are just built for it, unless you spend a butload to get a top of the line one that will hold. good luck though... its worth it!

well an ACT clutch holds 300hp, but a sti motor already has that. i wonder if i can use a wxr clutch and flywheel with the sti motor and RS tranny.

(not to hyjack your thread, just trying to pick your brain)

You can not use a WRX clutch on a 2.5RS transmission; its a push type vs pull type design. Same goes for the flywheel; the WRX flywheels are smaller.
So when its all said and done you need clutch, flywheel, master cylinder, rear differential and a few other odds and ends for a tranny swap... LOTS of $$$... You'll need drive and half shafts too if you go with a 6 speed.
I'm running a Spec Stage 3. It was mentioned earlier on the thread. Its Kevlar / Carbon. It slips horribly if overheated, and overheats easy, but otherwise holds the power fine.