Well Im going to swap my stock STIs BBS/re090s with some ASA/blizzaks that I got already mounted/balanced from the tire rack. Ive never done this before, but is it as simple as what you do when you change a tire?

The only difference I am aware of is the need for a torque wrench instead of a tire iron? If so, what type/size of torque wrench do I need?

Any other hardware or things I should know? I would be doing this in my level garage.

This is no different than any other tire change. You should always use a torque wrench when you change tires. Pick up one of the cheap beam style units I got mine for $20. If they sent new lug nuts with the wheels use them. If they don't fit you regular tire iron take one with you when you go to get the torque wrench and pick up new tire iron to match. This is from experience, it is too late to find out you need a diffrent sized iron when you already have a flat. The torque spec should be in your owners manual.

- remember to loosen the lug nuts a fraction BEFORE you jack the car up

- remember to check for direction arrows - don't put a LH (unidirectional) tire backwards on the RHS or vice versa

- remember to torque in a cross pattern

- remember to mark the tires on the wheels you're removing so your rotation sequence doesn't get out of whack (get a 'tire crayon' and write on the inner sidewall)

- remember to check and retorque if necessary after 100 miles or so

- never never get under a vehicle that's only supported on a jack

[QUOTE=UkNuck - remember to mark the tires on the wheels you're removing so your rotation sequence doesn't get out of whack (get a 'tire crayon' and write on the inner sidewall)[/QUOTE]
Chalk works just fine.

- remember to mark the tires on the wheels you're removing so your rotation sequence doesn't get out of whack (get a 'tire crayon' and write on the inner sidewall)



I prefer to mark it right on the tread. On the inner sidewall, it's semi-permanent. Ok the first time, but if you switch back and forth several times it can get confusing. If you write it on the tread, it wears off quickly once you put the tires back on and start driving.

Bah, I just write it on a piece of masking tape and stick it on one of the spokes.

Rotation sequence? Am I missing something here? I just rotate front and back every 7500 miles, leaving passenger side on passenger side and driver side on driver side. Do you guys swap passenger to driver as well? I used to do that on my old car, but the manual says to keep them on the same side.

Rotation sequence? Am I missing something here? I just rotate front and back every 7500 miles, leaving passenger side on passenger side and driver side on driver side. Do you guys swap passenger to driver as well? I used to do that on my old car, but the manual says to keep them on the same side.

No, but we're talking taking tires off and storing them for a season. You want to remember which side of the car the tire came off when it's time to put them back on.

Folks running no-season radials don't have to worry about this, but those of us with real snows and summer tires gotta have some way of keeping things straight.

No, but we're talking taking tires off and storing them for a season. You want to remember which side of the car the tire came off when it's time to put them back on.

Folks running no-season radials don't have to worry about this, but those of us with real snows and summer tires gotta have some way of keeping things straight.

AH, gotcha. That makes a lot more sense. Thanks. Good tip since I'm planning on getting another set of rims here soon.

MAK

Well we called the dealer before we got any responses from you guys, and they said you had to get exactly the right tightness and said they should just do it. They dont charge much, so I dont think its them playing us, and its snowing really hard... car is going in monday for a security sensor upgrade and they were just going to swap them then.. hopefully it wont snow monday.

What? You're telling me that youre taking it to the Subie dealer to swap your winters on? What is this world coming to?

Get a tread depth gauge for easy rotation :)

Not relevant now (new wheels/tires) but will be someday.

they said you had to get exactly the right tightness and said they should just do it... any time you swap wheels you want to re-torque them after 100 miles or so anyway; with aluminum rims they can sometimes loosen. I suppose you could take it back to the dealer for that too.

But really, just go to Sears and buy yourself a floor jack + torque wrench. Or at least a torque wrench so you can check them on your own. Set it to 68 ft-lbs. to get "exactly the right tightness"

If so, what type/size of torque wrench do I need? this one would be fine.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944595000

and a 19mm, 6pt deep socket to fit your lugs.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00919468000

Well we called the dealer before we got any responses from you guys, and they said you had to get exactly the right tightness and said they should just do it.


:rolleyes: .....OMFG......this is just.....OMFG..... :rolleyes:

Well we called the dealer before we got any responses from you guys, and they said you had to get exactly the right tightness and said they should just do it. They dont charge much, so I dont think its them playing us, and its snowing really hard... car is going in monday for a security sensor upgrade and they were just going to swap them then.. hopefully it wont snow monday.

dude, put your makeup aside and change your own wheels. do you pay somebody to top off your windshield wiper fluids too?

get yourself a floorjack + jack stands combo $30, cheapo tq wrench from harborfreight was $20 (does the job), dont need the $80 craftsman unless you got money to burn.

Well we called the dealer before we got any responses from you guys, and they said you had to get exactly the right tightness and said they should just do it.

Bull****. They measure the tightness of your wallet and then use an airgun set to "too tight" when they put on your wheels. I've never seen a dealer or tire place actually use a torque wrench when installing wheels; it takes too much time when they're trying to get your car out the door. They just slap the wheel on, whack it with the airgun as hard as it will go, and call it a day.

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if you have money to pay subaru for simple things like that, mind as well buy yourself a tq wrench, and a socket, not that hard and you could check all the time this way, i plan on gettin a mac tq wrench myself, 115 student discount =D

Bull****. They measure the tightness of your wallet and then use an airgun set to "too tight" when they put on your wheels. I've never seen a dealer or tire place actually use a torque wrench when installing wheels; it takes too much time when they're trying to get your car out the door. They just slap the wheel on, whack it with the airgun as hard as it will go, and call it a day.

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And half the time, if you're lucky, they'll crossthread one of your lugnuts :)

And half the time, if you're lucky, they'll crossthread one of your lugnuts :)

And you wonder why I break them all loose and retighten them before paying. It only took 1 -10 degree tire change to open my eyes to the evils of rushed installs. 2 hours, 1 tow truck ride and a new wheel stud were enough for me. At least I got to stick the installer with the bills because the wheels were just installed 2 days before.

Wheel changes and rotation are the best DIY project for every car owner. Think of it as practice for when you are in an area that AAA doesn't service.

Is a torque wrench really necessary?? What happened to making sure they are nice a tight? Is there a danger of over-tightening?

Is a torque wrench really necessary?? What happened to making sure they are nice a tight? Is there a danger of over-tightening?

Uneven tightening is a good way to warp rotors. Over-tightening can strip studs/nuts......Torque wrenches are cheap, why risk problems?

Speaking of which, I need to go out and re-torque mine, had new tires put on the other night.....

Actually yeah, they said they would use an airgun. This is just my first really high performance machine and I really didnt wanna screw anything up.

Actually yeah, they said they would use an airgun. This is just my first really high performance machine and I really didnt wanna screw anything up.

Yeah, torque spec is 65 ft/lbs to 72 ft/lbs but you can go as high as 80 ft/lbs. If they fed you a line about it being exact there's no way an airgun is going to be exact. Even if they use a torque stick with their airgun those get worn out. Either way, doing it yourself is cake and the cost of a torque wrench and 19mm deep socket is pennies considering it's something you'll use every time you do serious mod.

I just buy "disposable" $19 torque wrenches with the rotating spring adjustment from Auto Zone. Since it rattles around in the back of the rally car and service truck and gets wet/dirty at events I just replace it once or twice a year.

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Yeah they told me the airgun would be very exact as opposed to me doing it myself. So, I guess this will be the only time I have them do it if they do.. in the spring I will just get a torque wrench and start doing it myself.

So, how do you always make sure they are tightened, is it as simple as just bringing out the wrench checking every month? Does this need to be done if you never take off the factory BBSs?

Yeah they told me the airgun would be very exact as opposed to me doing it myself. So, I guess this will be the only time I have them do it if they do.. in the spring I will just get a torque wrench and start doing it myself.

So, how do you always make sure they are tightened, is it as simple as just bringing out the wrench checking every month? Does this need to be done if you never take off the factory BBSs?


I take it you went to A2 Subaru?


I'm going to have to give Martin a call and have a word with that boy.

So, how do you always make sure they are tightened, is it as simple as just bringing out the wrench checking every month? Does this need to be done if you never take off the factory BBSs?

Torque the wheel in a star pattern like when you draw a star. Bottom left point, top point, bottom right point, left point, right point. This seats the wheel perfectly on the studs. Now go out and drive around the block and re-torque. Re-torque again after 25 miles and again after 50 miles. The wheel should now be permanently tightened and won't need to be re-torqued until it comes off and goes back on again.

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Re-torque again after 25 miles and again after 50 miles. The wheel should now be permanently tightened and won't need to be re-torqued until it comes off and goes back on again.

good advices, but you should always check once every so often even after the few initial checks. also remember to check your tire pressures while you're at it.

Yes this was ann arbor subaru. We have dealt with martin for a while, and I like him a lot, he has always been helpful, maybe I did not interepret what he said about changing them correctly?

maybe I did not interepret what he said about changing them correctly? Its pretty simple. If you go in there never having changed a wheel before, they will tell you that you are better off having them do it, which you probably are.

They will use an airgun, which is probably better than you trying to do it with the lug wrench and jack that came with your car, but not as good as if you went out and got the right tools. (floor jack + torque wrench.)

This is not rocket science. If you bought an STi and found this forum, you have the skills to change your own wheels.

Alright, I think I understand everything now. I will pick up a real jack and a torque wrench over the winter, and do it myself in the spring. Thank you all for the information.