Well to make a long story short, I own an 02' wrx that has been stage 4(850cc, walbro 255, utec, Perrin FMIC, IC sprayer, up/down pipes,cat back, tgv port/deletes, had a vf39, 50 wet shot, stock clutch/tranny/block.

With the vf 39 the best I ran was a 12.47. I recently got the FP RED and Big MAF, 3" inlet , the car was faster than hell but the other day I broke second gear , or something in the tranny :banana: (knew it was gonna happen :lol: ) So I am parking it for the winter and building my ultimate dream car. Basically want a bad ass tranny and motor to take me into the 10's.

I want to keep the 5 speed and just get some killer gears to put in it, or so I think??
Also was thinking Axis stage 2 or something like that for the motor.
Any Ideas on what heads to run??? budget is between $5,000-$7,000 for both and I plan on having it done by next spring/ early summer.
This is mainly directed at vendors and those making 500+hp in the low 11's/High 10's
Let me know what you guys think! thanks, cant wait to get this project rolling!

There are about a million of these threads, but I'll summarize:

If you want a 6 speed, get an STI 6-speed. If you want to stay 5-speed, go with a PPG gearset. You could also go with RA gears, but they might not be enough for 500+hp.

Axis or Crawford block will be fine. The more you spend, the better the block. Stage blocks 2/3 should suffice. Get some cams/headwork when you take apart the motor to make it breath better in the higher rpm ranges.

$5000 is not enough. The gearbox choices alone will end up being around there, and thats not including bigger diffs/axles/etc. to handle the power. $7000 you could do it, but you'd have to take a lot of shortcuts. Try $10,000 with another $2000-$3000 in unplanned costs.

Gotta pay to play. ;)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=875276

read the first post for a mod list.

why dont i have this kind of money to blow on my car. oh yes thats right im stuck in alaska in the military. at least i have all the snow my subbie can handle. :devil:

Hey dmross, just curious what your rundown on pricing would be to need to spend 10 grand??

why dont i have this kind of money to blow on my car. oh yes thats right im stuck in alaska in the military. at least i have all the snow my subbie can handle. :devil:


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

1984 stock ej18 with 4 speed transmission. get a vf22 and a FMIC. port the heads, and get one of those chips that makes your car go fgster.

you were using a red on an ej205?

If you only have 5-7k and want high 10's/low 11's on a WRX...then you need to readjust either your budget or your goals. :(

It has a lot to do with where you go and what you get. Look for good deals, and that will make a huge difference. I managed to get my car where it is (without looking at past set-ups), 11.3s @ 125, for about $8,000-9,000. There's more left in it... prolly 11.0-11.1 @ 126-127... I just need more time to get it ;)

Anyway, built motors aren't needed... just find a nice EJ207. It will reliably make all the power 99% out there will ever need (450-500 whp). That alone will save you thousands.

def

If you only have 5-7k and want high 10's/low 11's on a WRX...then you need to readjust either your budget or your goals. :(

I agree.
Just for block and heads, I am spending 10 K. Tranny upgrade 5 k. This is only for parts, then take in consederation everything else including labour.
10 sec WRX will cost you at least 20 k. 9 sec WRX 30 to 35 K.

Well, not exactly what I wanted to hear from everybody but hey, thats why you ask questions..Here is what I was thinking...

axis stage 2 block $2300 roughly
v8 sti heads $2000 roughly.. i think
not sure what tranny option to go with ,my brother is a trannmission mechanic so I kinda just wanted to get some hardcore gears and have him put them in. $?,???

Dug-e-fresh, Would it be better to go with a 2.5 or a 2.0. I noticed you went w/ a 2.0. any reason?? since you seem to have a car equal to what im trying to do. What tranny/heads are you running?

yes I had an FPRED on my stock ej205 for a lil while. It wasnt as laggy as I expected and was a lot of fun to drive... but the tranny went before the motor did so....

how long did your stock tranny last w/ the vf39, stag4 setup ?
and how long w/ the fp red?

a long time on the vf 39-all the time I had the car-5,000 miles+ the fpred............................................. ..about a week :lol: it was a good week though :banana:

+1 for Crawford performance! :banana:

There are about a million of these threads, but I'll summarize:

If you want a 6 speed, get an STI 6-speed. If you want to stay 5-speed, go with a PPG gearset. You could also go with RA gears, but they might not be enough for 500+hp.

Axis or Crawford block will be fine. The more you spend, the better the block. Stage blocks 2/3 should suffice. Get some cams/headwork when you take apart the motor to make it breath better in the higher rpm ranges.

$5000 is not enough. The gearbox choices alone will end up being around there, and thats not including bigger diffs/axles/etc. to handle the power. $7000 you could do it, but you'd have to take a lot of shortcuts. Try $10,000 with another $2000-$3000 in unplanned costs.

Gotta pay to play. ;)
That and weight reduction for good measure. And on the budget, you have to tune it, tires, electronics, etc. But if you want to spend very little, loose as much weight as you can off your car :)

I am sort of heading this way but for now i'm aiming towards 11's with my set-up

Heres what i've got

I had a blown Ver8 engine the heads were still good but the motor cost me $3000

I allready had the JDM 6-speed i swapped it with my WRX engine and tranny plus $1500 for the trans.

I have an FP green cost me $1000

PE 850's $400

Price for GT motor sports to take my project it has cost around $10000

This was for 2.5 block, Weisco pistons, Crower rods, Crank knife edged and balanced, Gaskets, Head studs, water pump, New P/S oil line, Perrin front mount, Blow off valve, Rebuild and tuning. Plus some other costs for bits n pieces.

Once i have this sorted and hit the 11's i will plan on going with the GT35R that should cost about $3000

Good luck! :)

drag racing is for people that cant drive

drag racing is for people that cant drive

***

Why post that? You know it's a stupid opinion based comment that can't be proven/disproven and this will only lead to an OT discussion/flame fest.

why dont i have this kind of money to blow on my car. oh yes thats right im stuck in alaska in the military. at least i have all the snow my subbie can handle. :devil:

didnt this guys roll his car by trying to avoid a moose?? ***

+1 for PPG gearsets... You could get a set of 1-4 strait cut installed for probably around 4,500... But at that power level, you may be more interested in the dog-box setup which would obviously cost more...

If you want 500 whp reliably get a supra or a r32 i have been building my car for the past 13 months i have realized oit takes tie and ALOT of money to make a 10 sec reliable suby

Yeah thats not enough money to build the car you want, I am in the same boat as you right now, except I allready went and spent money and bought my engine. I went with a crawford s2 which I would strongly suggest but even that with all the nessecary accesories will cost around 3,000 and than you have to think of the cost of labor, unless you plan on doing it yourself, which is at the very least 1,000. After that you need head work which is about 1,000 for port and polish than 1-2,000 for cams and other head work. Than comes the big turbo, probably a GT35r for those power levels which is about 3,500 for the kit than injectors which is another 500 at the very least. Finaly we get to the tranny which at the least will cost you 1,500 for RA gears which wont hold that power or about 800 a gear for PPG plus at least a 300 clutch. So parts alone are going to cost around 11,800 and than there is the labor cost if you don't do it yourself.
Building a car that fast takes alot of time and you are probably better off doing it step by step so if I were you i'd just build the most badass transmission I could for the money and see whats left over for the next round of mods.

Have you considered installing an auto?

we are all in the same boat now aren't we?

Over the summer i did a JDM 6 speed, 05 USDM sti r180, axles + brembo's
Now i'm looking at building a 2.5 in january sometime, and then i'll probably stick with a green to get me up and going, Thats a lot of money for 11's, why didn't i just get a supra (or save more for an STI)?

Hate to say this but if you were to trade your car in on a EVO you could get close with bolt ons, cams and a tune. Stock tranny and turbo supports about 400whp+.
Or do like me and keep your eye out for a built subie that somone is selling. And that could be financed. I know, you've seem to spent alot of time and money and that makes it hard to bail on your bugeye. :(
But if keeping your bugeye. You need a STI driveline swap or beefy gears as you know, a stock sti block may handle that whp for a while, but their known to pop getting up to that level. And on a turbo that size the N20 may be too much for a stock block.

I assume we're talking 500whp? What do 500whp cars typically run in the 1/4? I doubt if 500bhp cars can hit 10s..

A GT35R would cost $3-4k, right? You could save some money ($2-3k) by buying a bolt-on turbo with a similar output, FP Red maybe? I think the output of these are similar..

Someone mentioned building your tranny first and seeing how much you have left to mod and going from there. That sounds like good advice. Or you could start building your motor first.

Good luck!

Dug-e-fresh, Would it be better to go with a 2.5 or a 2.0. I noticed you went w/ a 2.0. any reason?? since you seem to have a car equal to what im trying to do. What tranny/heads are you running?

First I thought, more displacement = more torque = more broken drivetrain parts.

Then, I realized you can spend thousands upon thousands on a fully built motor and still have it pop for the stupidest reason. So, I decided I'd go with a factory assembled longblock that was proven STRONG, and relatively cheap.

That pretty much led me hands down to the EJ207.

I purchased my current longblock for $2500! It was clean as a whistle... and yea, I know I got it for a steal. :devil:

I am running 100% stock Spec C heads/cams... the longblock is 100% untouched / unopened. I didn't even take off the valve covers!!

Finally, even after going the "lesser torque" route... I got tired of replacing trannies, so I dropped the coin for a full PPG unit. All the bells and whistles... for a REALLY good deal. (Thanks Turbo XS and Andrewtech for that one;)).

Add supporting mods and a decent turbo (SZ49), shake well... throw in some good tuning (Thanks again to Turbo XS).... voila! Low 11s @ 125, as of now :devil:

She don't burn a drop of oil... and is as quiet as an EJ205.

def

I assume we're talking 500whp? What do 500whp cars typically run in the 1/4? I doubt if 500bhp cars can hit 10s..

On some dyno even 600whp has not hit 10's yet :(

On a couple dynos 500whp should do the trick.

This shows the big difference between the way dynos read.