I just swapped out my NGK V-powers for the same over the weekend. The ones swapped out were put in Feb 05. And that was about ~15-16k ago.

I worked on the driverside first. When I was pulling the boots out, I noticed that it looked like oil was seeping out of the plugs holes. No drips or anything, but you can tell that oil was coming out, for sure. This was happening with cylinders #2 and #4. Plugs looked alright when I took then out, but after alittle research I am thinking that my engine is running hot. Pics would shed some light to this, I am going to post some up a little later.

Anyhow, that gave me a little concern. However, cylinders #1 and #3 looked fine. There was absolutely no oil seeping from the plugs holes.

All the plugs looked about the same in appearance. No carbon buildup, but there was white buildup on the plugs. And some of the burn marks looked a tad green:confused: (pics will show all later)

My car had been burning a little oil before my last oil change (12-30-05), but I doubt it could lose that much through oil vapors escaping through the holes.

1. Does it sound like I just didn't tighten the plugs enough from my last change?
2. Could this be a symptom of something to come.
3. All my plugs came gapped at ~0.0415 to 0.042 Does that sound alright to use in a MY01 RS? (I think factory settings are 0.040)

probably the valve cover seal leaking? was there oil on the end of the plug boot?

if their was oil on the boots your spark plug tube seals are leaking just replace the valve cover gasket it will come with new ones it happens after u clock a good bit of miles the seals just become brittle and dont seal properly

As much as I know about my Subie, I don't know how to mess/change the valve cover gaskets. Can I do this relatively easy or is this something I may want a shop to look at.

Very thick sludge like oil on the boot and a little in the gap hole. Not too excessive as this is the second time replacing plugs myself (seemed similar to the first time).

I am concerned mainly due to it being only on one side of the engine.

Plug #1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/Dreddrs25/DSCN1030.jpg

Plug #3
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/Dreddrs25/DSCN1031.jpg

Plug #2
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/Dreddrs25/DSCN1028.jpg

Plug #4
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/Dreddrs25/DSCN1029.jpg

Again these plugs have about 15-16k miles on them. Do these show an engine running too hot? I know the carbon is from running rich. Everything look alright for a 104k motor and I am just overly concerned?

FYI... I noticed simular leaking on my 99 legacy as well. I was about due for my 60k timing belt service and such. I just had the shop do those while they were at it. Hasn't leaked / repeated that behavior.

If you are new to working on your car as I was when I started (self-oil changes, filters, sparkplugs ) very little stuff I passed the torch onto a good local shop and let them take care of it.

We all started somewhere ourselves...but its good to acknowledge when your out of your comfort zone ... I have been at times and it has cost me usually the money I was savign to get it right but that is only me :p )

----Back to your question

Valve Cover gaskets are the likely issue and if the leaking is excessive you should get it repaired soon. 120k service does do timeingbelts and gaskets too just my two cents

We all started somewhere ourselves...but its good to acknowledge when your out of your comfort zone ... I have been at times and it has cost me usually the money I was savign to get it right but that is only me :p )


Yeah. Bolt-ons, tune-ups, and alittle bit of stereo work. Done all that so far, but once it gets to working inside an engine, no way.

I've owned the car since it had 63k on it. Done every oil change, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, brakes, exhaust, and shifter (+bushings). All of those are pretty easy with most hand tools.

Now that I've past the 100k mark I am just concerned about timingbelts, Head gaskets, waterpump, and thermostat. All of which I am quite hesistant to try and fix/replace myself.

Since the car has always run like a champ, I am not too concerned. But you are right... I am out of my comfort zone for this kind of work.

I haven't done a timing belt on a Suby yet, but it doesn't look terribly difficult.

I did my dad's Miata's timing belt, waterpump, CAS sensor, gaskets, etc... last summer. Had a friend over who'd done a number of timing belts on escorts and a few domestics and he helped. Took us about 9 hours, but we took our time and had to run to the store for various small things a few times. In hindsight, I'd have felt more comfortable doing the tear down one afternoon, looking everything over and just cleaning it all up that evening. Then re-assembly the next morning. Unless I had someone who'd done the work on that type of engine before...then you could easily do it in a day.

It wasn't that hard. For the Miata, I found instructions online with some pictures. Ordered the parts online(ended up just being short some tools and gasket maker I thought I had). Started on a saturday around 10:00am and worked till I was done. My friend was only there for about 5 hours of it...or I would have finished it faster I bet.

Wasn't all that difficult. Just go slow and be sure to mark the teeth so you don't screw up the timing(again...not hard, just be sure you do it). If you're scared...type up the instructions and have a copy, step by step, that you can check off as you go. Get a friend to look over your shoulder and double check your work. For some, it's not worth paying someone for the work. For me, I enjoyed saving my dad the money and loved the experience. I was very afraid and let my friend help alot...but I'm sure without him, I could have done it...just would have taken another two hours(mostly to re-assure myself I was doing things right).

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3837&highlight=timing+belt

I just checked that link above...it really doesn't look too bad. I think you could do it in a day easy. Looks simpler than the Miata and more room, too. He states 3 hours...if you're nervous...give yourself about 6-7 to just keep double checking everything(or stop and take breaks so you don't get frustrated).

....if you do the valve cover gaskets yourself....do NOT OVERTORQUE THE FARKING BOLTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
they break off in half a heartbeat...they get ONLY 3.6ft-lbs....really----per the FSM

Thx for the link Charge. Haven't visited scoobymods in a while. Forget all the good write ups they have.

My fiance's father is a mechanic for UPS and has often offered to help on things I need done. It doesn't look like the timing belt should be that hard. I've just need to decided whether or not I want to do the tensioner and water pump whilie I'm in there. Also I would want him there to help out with the gaskets.

Scotty thx for the torque numbers. Those I sometimes forget to check on. I need to get me a FSM.

Thx for the link Charge. Haven't visited scoobymods in a while. Forget all the good write ups they have.

My fiance's father is a mechanic for UPS and has often offered to help on things I need done. It doesn't look like the timing belt should be that hard. I've just need to decided whether or not I want to do the tensioner and water pump whilie I'm in there. Also I would want him there to help out with the gaskets.

Scotty thx for the torque numbers. Those I sometimes forget to check on. I need to get me a FSM.

At 100,000 miles...do the water pump. The tensioner...it depends on what it looks like. Unfortunately, you won't know until you tear it down...but if it's cheap, go ahead and do it. Usually these parts aren't expensive. The waterpump is probably the highest by far...I'd guess around $70.00 or so. May as well do it now so you don't have to tear the car apart again. I always check the directions for anything you'll be near, and if it's a wear part and not expensive, just go ahead and do it. Especially since a lot of those components are cheap...but expensive to replace individually cause of labor.