2005 STI
Current mods:

3" APS TBE
65mm APS CAI
Protune


Saturday I'm adding:

2.4" FP Green
Colder Plugs
Fuel Pump
720cc Injectors
Perrin EBCS
Turbo wrap
Protune


I can't wait. I'll post up before/after numbers.

You getting tuned on pump fuel, or are you gonna get a race fuel tune also?

Good luck either way... The green pulls very hard...

You getting tuned on pump fuel, or are you gonna get a race fuel tune also?

Good luck either way... The green pulls very hard...

Getting a 93 tune and a Torco tune or something like that. It's supposed to be consistent incase I can't buy the same race gas near me after the tune. The race gas map will just be for numbers and the guys that call me out. I'll mainly just run on pump gas and that's my main priority.

I want a ride! Actually, I want a run as you sit now. We should be comparable.

I want a ride! Actually, I want a run as you sit now. We should be comparable.


Don't you live in Houston? I live in Dallas. All the install/tuning is going to take place in Austin.

TypeC lives in SA.

yeah u two set up a run and videotape it then post it.

that would rule...............

SA is quite a ways from Dallas. I'll be in Austin first thing Saturday morning as I am. That will be the only chance to race me at my current state. After that Monday evening would be your only chance to race me with the FP Green. You gotta go to Austin cause I'm already coming from Dallas. And the 2k I'm dropping on this stuff ain't cheap!

What psi are you shooting for. Are you conserned at all about maxing out the maf sensor?

I believe the tuner is gonna shoot for 19 psi since I have the stock tmic. He is just going to tune conservative and see what he can get. If he can get 20psi reliably he will. I'll just have to see. He didn't express concerns of the MAF.

stock turbo inlet too?

yep stock inlet. If it ain't on the list it ain't going in.

wow....pretty much what i have...save for pe850's, perrin inlet and perrin FMIC instead. I'll be watching this.

best of luck

I'd like to hear how this goes with a stock inlet and stock TMIC. I like your approach. Curious why you aren't doing anything with the inlet and the intercooler. I'm thinking of the same, with no aftermarket inlet (I doubt it's of significant performance value and the install PITA is a tradeoff between putting in the inlet tube or fitting the new turbo back on the stock tube), but I might go to a Spearco TMIC. I don't want a FMIC.

I don't think it's worth the money to have to do TGV deletes and the inlet hose. I'm not trying to destroy every car on earth. I just want to trap 114+ on pump gas consistantly. That's my only goal.

I cant wait to see the results.

Rob

I'm with you on the goals, although I will have a race gas map on the UTEC as I do now, pump for street, 94/95 tune for road courses, 97/98 or so for drag, always run pure 100 when racing for the safety margin (and preservation of my cat and 02 sensors).

Where are you having the install done and who's tuning it if you dont mind me asking?

Hope all goes well on Sat for you.

MZM doing install and tune.

Good deal, they're a good shop with some good service and they know their stuff.

It's Sunday.

indeed....let's have it. :-)

Looking forward to seeing your numbers....
I'll be putting doing my turbo build in a few weeks and I'm in Dallas. It could be interesting to compare the two.
My mods will be:
FP p&p'd 20g
Perrin modded injectors
NGK colder plugs
Walboro pump
Perrin Big MAF intake
Turbo wrap
3" catless stealthback & stock axel back
I'll run one of PDX's base maps until someone who can pro-tune comes into Dallas or I have a reason to drive down to MZM in Austin.

indeed....let's have it. :-)
maybe he's too buys enjoying his new toy?

He may not have made the trip to Austin because of the weather.

Rob

It's Moday.

argh ... this is such a tease. Hope everything is ok.

here's my setup, assuming i'm convinced the Green is the right choice:

FP Green (inlet size?) with all options, save for polishing
PE 850 cc injectors
CR t-stat and rad hoses
NGK +1 colder plugs
Walboro pump
Perrin EBCS
Perrin Big MAF intake
Perrin inlet
Perrin FMIC
Perrin catch can
Perrin pulley
SXM Turbo wrap
DEI IC pipe wrap
Invidia catless TBE
PDX map
Protune

Almost Tuesday... any update? :)

Still at the shop. So far things are going ok. To say the least, the stock TMIC doesn't like the FP Green. So plan B is in effect and I don't think it will disappoint. Numbers should be up later tonight with any luck. I've been staying here since Saturday morning. I'll post up tonight.

excellent....I'm wondering which fmic u went with.

Good luck@!

Wow what a long weekend.

For starters: A stock 05 STI puts down 205-210 on this dyno.
With 3" turboback, intake and dyno tune my car made 267hp/276lbs. When I dynoed the 267 I raced an STI from 60mph that did 308whp on FIS's mustang dyno and I pulled him. That should give you an idea of where it's at now.

Down to business. The Green, 720cc, FP, spark plugs and Perrin EBCS were installed on Saturday/Monday. The car was dynoed Monday night. 259hp/259lbs. The stock TMIC was hurting bad. Ambient temps outside were 45 degrees. The intercooler was sitting at 65 degrees at idle. As soon as the gas was hit in 4th gear it jumped to 85 degrees. By the end of 4th gear going into 5th the temperature on the TMIC was 185 degrees. Timing, A/F, etc was where it needed to be. The top mount just couldn't flow the air the turbo was pushing.

Plan B: stayed overnight for another day for an APS 725 FMIC and APS headers install. Took all day for the install from 8:00 in the morning. Didn't finish tuning until 10:00 last night. I got home at 2:00 this morning but it was fun.

Results:

2.4" FP Green
720cc injectors
Walbro FP
Perrin EBCS
APS FMIC
APS Headers
2 step colder plugs
3" APS TBE
65mm APS CAI
Protune on Access Port

307whp/344lbs of torque. I will post the graph tonight. But peak power is at 5500 and holds to redline. Peak torque is at 4250. Turbo has full boost around 3800. When it hits, it hits hard. The car has a different exhaust note with the headers. Hard to explain. You'd have to hear it yourself.

On a dynojet, this would equate to around 360hp/400lbs. Car pulls hard on the highway. This was all on pump gas (93 octane from Walmart baby!) Since it was so late we didn't get a chance to do a race gas map. I'll be going back for that soon. Now if it would stop raining I can get some track times!

Glad you're gonna ditch teh stock TMIC... it's definitely holding you back.

Gonna? It's already done ;)

What's your peak boost? Also what fuel did you get tuned on?

Another note... there's no need to compare numbers from one dyno to another. The truth is dyno numbers don't mean much, since there is never a "control" to compare to or against due to the inconsistencies of dynos. If the curve is smooth and the car pulls hard that's what matters... What it does on the track is the real proof of what it does.

Honestly... I'd rather have a dyno tune on a typically "lower reading" dyno... then when i say I have 307whp and beat cars with 350whp (from higher reading dynos)... they get angered.

Either way... it looks good.

Do you have the graphs to scan???

Peak boost is 22. tapers and holds 19 to redline. I put it in my post. It was on 93 octane from Walmart :)

sweet, seems like a hell of a street setup :)

how much later did boost come on with the FMIC compared to stock TMIC?
Also just to confirm what you're saying... you made LESS power with the green/stock TMIC than stock turbo and IC based on the numbers you provided.

Yes. Stock TMIC made less power with the FP Green. The car had 19.5psi at 3500 with the TMIC. With the FMIC it increased spool about 300 RPM, however gained about 40whp/68lbs of torque. So I don't mind the 300rpms.

not too shabby. Does anyone know offhand if the APS 725 is bigger than the perrin fmic?

i think it is..

Yes. Stock TMIC made less power with the FP Green. The car had 19.5psi at 3500 with the TMIC. With the FMIC it increased spool about 300 RPM, however gained about 40whp/68lbs of torque. So I don't mind the 300rpms.

Damn whens the next time your gonna be down in Austin. id love to check the set up out. Because right now im up in the air with the FP green or the APS Dr55..

Nice numbers... very nice torque. I am running an SZ49 on a 2.0 liter... I love the 49lb wheel (same as the Green)... excellent power... not so laggy (especially on a 2.5 I imagine) and power all the way to redline.


def

Well regarding green vs most any turbo. The FP line tends to be much more consistent. Ask your tuner what he thinks but I will bet he will tell you that you should go with the Green.

Watch for boost creep. I was a believer that the green and IWG would hold boost as mine did while the weather was above 45. Since it's dropped here I started to creep and had to go external. I'm on a Helix TMIC and that's limiting me now but my tuner was able to coax 335 whp out of the setup (STIs get around 240) at 18psi.

The green really shines at 21-22 psi.

Frank

not too shabby. Does anyone know offhand if the APS 725 is bigger than the perrin fmic?

i think it is..
I have a pic of them side by side on my camera - I think the APS is bigger but the difference isn't huge.

I replaced my Perrin with an APS after my accident only because of fog light capability - and I think it looks badazz in black :p

I have a pic of them side by side on my camera - I think the APS is bigger but the difference isn't huge.


can u post that pic :-D

I got silver and it looks great on Blue. There is a lot of hacking that had to be done to make it fit since it is so big. But it looks good because MZM took their time and did it right so it wasn't a hack job. They are just as anal about my car as me. That's rare in a shop.

can u post that pic :-D
as soon as I get it onto a PC I will do that - just remind me :p

grats thats a huge improvement in torque.

why did you go with 2 step colder plugs and not the typcial 1 range colder?

They did the two steps to help combat heat soak with the TMIC. They just weren't changed after the FMIC was put on.

I was actually thinking about dynoing on a dynojet this weekend just to get some dynojet numbers.

I trapped 83.66mph in the 1/8th with 267hp/276lbs. Anyone have an idea what my 1/8th and 1/4 traps should be with 307hp/344lbs on the same dyno?

88-91 mph + 20 to 23 mph up top = 108-114 mph in the 1/4, depends on a lot of things though.

def

Just ran into an 04 GTO near my house out playing with the car. We went from a 60 and it was real even with my car barely inching forward.

He said he dynoed 459rwhp with heads/cam, exhaust and whatever else he had. Told me he ran 12.5@118.xx in Michigan. He had about 300 extra pounds in the car. So we figured he was trapping about 115ish right now. Got his name and number so we can run again some time when there isn't so much traffic

Things I've noticed so far that I don't like:

The headers take away the boxer sound
First gear doesn't pull that hard because it runs out too fast and doesn't have a chance to really get into boost.
The car bucks real bad and loses boost between shifts. Some times I can shift and it's smooth but most of the time it's horrible.

Those are really the only complaints I have so far. Maybe a little tweaking can help this stuff.

I'm really worried about my clutch. I don't see how it can hold the power.

Things I've noticed so far that I don't like:

The headers take away the boxer sound
First gear doesn't pull that hard because it runs out too fast and doesn't have a chance to really get into boost.
The car bucks real bad and loses boost between shifts. Some times I can shift and it's smooth but most of the time it's horrible.

Those are really the only complaints I have so far. Maybe a little tweaking can help this stuff.

I'm really worried about my clutch. I don't see how it can hold the power.

The headers will always sound that way because they are equal length. The "boxer sound" is merely unequal length header sound.

You need an AVC-R for first and second gear. I am surprised you dont have one already, I always recommend that 2.5's with turbos bigger than 20G make this a MUST.

Clutch will hold as long as you dont abuse. Failure usually is due more to abuse and power. Garrett at worldone had his stock clutch holding his Green for over 10000 miles.

The headers will always sound that way because they are equal length. The "boxer sound" is merely unequal length header sound.

You need an AVC-R for first and second gear. I am surprised you dont have one already, I always recommend that 2.5's with turbos bigger than 20G make this a MUST.

Clutch will hold as long as you dont abuse. Failure usually is due more to abuse and power. Garrett at worldone had his stock clutch holding his Green for over 10000 miles.
Blinguskahn,

Why is the AVC-R needed? What benefits would it offer?

Ernie

Not to be dickie or anything but please do a search. This has been discussed over and over again (by me and others) and there is alot of good info out there.

I've never used the AVCR, but I have the TurboXS DTEC on my Perrin GT30R kit and I definately like it quite a bit. I've talked to a couple people that had the AVCR and went to the DTEC and like it more. Might want to check it out. Gear dependent and RPM within gear dependent boost control. Very cool. :)

I have the Perrin EBCS. Does that not do the same thing?

I've done a search and can't find anything. The bucking between shifts is bad and just wanted to see what people thought. I'm beginning to suspect the clutch is already slipping.

I'll try a search, but I have frequented the tuning forum for a while and have yet to come across a good explanation of what an AVCR does and what benefits it offers (besides gear dependent boost control).

ernie

gear dependant and RPM specific boost control. It really allows you to tune your boost effectively for every gear and every 500 RPM.

I hear good and bad with the DTEC. 5 maps seems nice, easy user interface seems like a good idea. I do know its wiring is not the cleanest. Does the GBA run off the car's power?

gear dependant and RPM specific boost control. It really allows you to tune your boost effectively for every gear and every 500 RPM.

I hear good and bad with the DTEC. 5 maps seems nice, easy user interface seems like a good idea. I do know its wiring is not the cleanest. Does the GBA run off the car's power?

More like spaghetti wires. :lol: None the less the dtec and avcr are good boost controllers and definitely a must if you plan on getting the desired boost for 1st and 2nd gear. ;) So listen to blinguskahn. I personally love my dtec-bc due to it's data logging features and etc.

I have the Perrin EBCS. Does that not do the same thing?

no, hence the reason your boost controller costs about 1/5th the price of an avc-r or dtec. Good thing you can find used AVCR's for a smidge over $300. :D

make sure your tuner knows what they are doing with the AVCR. I have heard it a real bear to work with unless you know whats going on.

i think u need a retune if u have that bucking and losing boost.
take it back and drive it like granny until u get it retuned or looked at.

I called the tuner. Could be my shifting and me hitting the rev limiter. I'm going to do a few tests he recommended today and see what I come up with.

Things I've noticed so far that I don't like:

The headers take away the boxer sound
First gear doesn't pull that hard because it runs out too fast and doesn't have a chance to really get into boost.
The car bucks real bad and loses boost between shifts. Some times I can shift and it's smooth but most of the time it's horrible.

Those are really the only complaints I have so far. Maybe a little tweaking can help this stuff.

I'm really worried about my clutch. I don't see how it can hold the power.


Wanted to mention that my above comments are most likely premature. Please take them with a grain of salt for now. I'm still in the "adapting" stage right now and learning my car.

Since I'm so observant I tend to notice everything even if it's miniscule. I'm taking notes and talking with the tuner to know what's normal and what's not. I will let everyone know the outcome as always.

Blingus - yes, the DTEC box has a power cable for the GBA.

The wiring for it isn't terribly bad. But can get confusing quickly if you don't know what you are looking at.

just curious, but are you going to go with a water/meth kit? Also, interested to see some track times.

No need to go with meth. Car has enough power. I just want it smooth and reliable. If the weather holds up I may get some times this weekend.

No need to go with meth. Car has enough power. I just want it smooth and reliable. If the weather holds up I may get some times this weekend.

Meth could make that power safer though :)

Something about injecting something into my motor doesn't sound reliable and trouble free. I don't want to have to rely on the injection in case of failure.

Something about injecting something into my motor doesn't sound reliable and trouble free. I don't want to have to rely on the injection in case of failure.

what do you think you are doing with gasoline :lol:

Blingus - yes, the DTEC box has a power cable for the GBA.

The wiring for it isn't terribly bad. But can get confusing quickly if you don't know what you are looking at.


Cool the Power was one thing that made me nervous. Nothing like the thought of racing and having to replace your GBA batteries for your boost controller :lol:

It really does sound like a cool product and I am excited to see one in action on BLUE STINGER's car. As much as I hate TXS crap, I will 100% support an product that is superior and from what I heard is that its a user friendly copy of the AVC-R with 2.5 times more maps and that sounds GOOD to me!

I have found that my EBCS is making a loud clicking noise when the car is parked and giving the car a little gas. Are these things supposed to click and is this what's causing my bucking between shifts?

The clicking is very normal especially if its mounted to the chassis. The way to get around this is to mount some rubber bushings in between the EBCS and chassis.

The clicking is very normal especially if its mounted to the chassis. The way to get around this is to mount some rubber bushings in between the EBCS and chassis.

brilliant.....I'll have to keep that in mind....if i dont end up using a AVCR

The clicking is very normal especially if its mounted to the chassis. The way to get around this is to mount some rubber bushings in between the EBCS and chassis.
I took it even further, I wrapped it in packing foam (the grey stuff). It's dead quiet.

And no, it shouldn't be clicking at a low RPM. It should only click when the solenoid is bleeding boost. Your low rpm duty cycles should be maxed out (up until your boost threshold) for best spool.

I took it even further, I wrapped it in packing foam (the grey stuff). It's dead quiet.

And no, it shouldn't be clicking at a low RPM. It should only click when the solenoid is bleeding boost. Your low rpm duty cycles should be maxed out (up until your boost threshold) for best spool.

Makes sense to me. But it still clicks loudly when the car is parked and I just rev to 1500-2000.

quickscooby,

You might not know the answer to this, since you did many mods at the same time, but you said you are a very observant person, so I give it a shot and ask anyway.

I am really curious of the effect of the APS header, other then the obvious sounds difference, do you have any idea where it helps in power? Earlier spool, low, mid, high end power gain?

Thanks.

quickscooby,

You might not know the answer to this, since you did many mods at the same time, but you said you are a very observant person, so I give it a shot and ask anyway.

I am really curious of the effect of the APS header, other then the obvious sounds difference, do you have any idea where it helps in power? Earlier spool, low, mid, high end power gain?

Thanks.

According to APS its suposed to help alot on the top end but give you alittle more grunt down low..

Ill let you know in about a week when i get mine on.. :banana:

Know way for me to know since I added the turbo, FMIC and headers all at the same time. All I know is that it pulls pretty damn hard.

Know way for me to know since I added the turbo, FMIC and headers all at the same time. All I know is that it pulls pretty damn hard.

Hey is this Joe ??

Just wondering cause my friend Matt has been talking about one of his friends that got a FP green and tuned in austin...

According to APS its suposed to help alot on the top end but give you alittle more grunt down low..

Ill let you know in about a week when i get mine on.. :banana:

Please keep me posted.

I really appreciate it ;)

Know way for me to know since I added the turbo, FMIC and headers all at the same time. All I know is that it pulls pretty damn hard.

That's what I thought, I figure I ask anyway.

Thank you for your reply regardless :)

Hey is this Joe ??

Just wondering cause my friend Matt has been talking about one of his friends that got a FP green and tuned in austin...


That's me. I think Matt is gonna come to the local 1/8th mile track with me tomorrow.

Just pulled a C5 Vette from a 70ish punch like he was standing still. And I had a passenger :) Way to go MZM ;)

Please keep me posted.

I really appreciate it ;)

I think Miguel has before and after numbers with the APS header. GIve him a shout, his name on here is mnavaro.

If you find before/after on the APS headers let me know.

I think Miguel has before and after numbers with the APS header. GIve him a shout, his name on here is mnavaro.

Thank you for the tip, but mnavaro is an invalid user name, can you please find me his correct username? ;)

If you find before/after on the APS headers let me know.

Will do.

Thank you for the tip, but mnavaro is an invalid user name, can you please find me his correct username? ;)

Oops, 2 r's. mnavarro. Sometimes this keyboard cant keep up with my fingers of fury.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=51537

Oops, 2 r's. mnavarro. Sometimes this keyboard cant keep up with my fingers of fury.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/member.php?u=51537

Thanks a bunch, just PM'd him :)

I'm pretty sure my clutch is slipping. I was thinking about the ACT Street setup. I've been told that my clutch should hold but I really don't think it is.

Any issues with the stock inlet pipe during the install? Too bad the stock TMIC didn't work out but good to see the info on trying.

Stock inlet is fine as long as you are careful.

That's me. I think Matt is gonna come to the local 1/8th mile track with me tomorrow.

what times did you run at the track?

Since the clutch is slipping I'm going to wait and go to the track after I get a new one. Then I'll post up the times.

Since the clutch is slipping I'm going to wait and go to the track after I get a new one. Then I'll post up the times.

Hey.. hope the clutch yields better results man.. keep us posted. I would have thought for sure we would have smelled clutch after your runs. (I'm the owner of the White EVO that was at the track on Sun.) Good luck.

Hey.. hope the clutch yields better results man.. keep us posted. I would have thought for sure we would have smelled clutch after your runs. (I'm the owner of the White EVO that was at the track on Sun.) Good luck.

What's up. I've done a few tests and it is for sure slipping. I've talked to a few people that have had slipping subaru clutches that didn't smell. I never smelled my wrx when it was slipping. Hard part is deciding on a clutch and finding out who has one in stock.