Google
 
Web NASIOC.com

View Full Version : WRX swap issues.


sidewayz
02-19-2006, 07:31 PM
ok..this might get confusing.
First issue is that I have ZERO power coming out of the Y/L from the factory RS harness. So when I connect the Y/L on the WRX harness, nothing happens. If I jump it to a 12v she fires up.
BUT
She idles high...Im talking 2k high and wont rev past 4,500k.. Limp mode IMO.
CEL is on..duh but I cant read the codes because my OBD port isnt working.
I have reverse lights but NO Temp Gauge and I have no idea why.
I need to get my OBD working so I can see wth is going on.
I keep reading about people saying "connect blah blah wire" to pin B6 or B5 or B3... what exactly is B5 B6 etc etc.. all I see on the RS ecu pin outs is B134 B135 B136.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 09:18 AM
31 views?? can anyone help me here??

speedyHAM
02-20-2006, 09:29 AM
You need the Y/L wire to connect to the main relay on the switched side. If the main relay is not getting power then you need to trace that back to where it is supposed to be hooked up.

For help- what year WRX engine and harness are you using and are there any other electrical mods?

Get the OBDII port working first. There are only 3 wires that matter for OBDII, 1 for singal from the ECU, 1 for power (+12V) from the ECU and a ground. The extra stuff is not needed for reading codes. So look at your wiring diagrams and trace the wires the go from the OBDII port to the ECU. Make sure those are connected and then go from there. PM me if you have any specific problems and I'll try to give you a hand when I can.

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 09:53 AM
thanks speedy. the motor and wiring is an 04. the ecu is an 03.
the problem with the diagrams is that the RS ones flat out suck. they are impossible to follow correctly and make any sense out of. On the RS diagram, they show the ECU and if you follow a wire to it, it terminates at say for instance pin 112.....where the hell is that pin?? they dont show it going to B134 pin blah blah or B135 pin blah blah...
follow me??

UTCiv
02-20-2006, 10:28 AM
My 2.5 ECU had 1 plug so all of the pinouts to the ECU are numbered 1-whatever. On the newer engines (I'm assuming correct for your WRX engine, I am using an STI engine so I have to take a small guess here) there are multiple plugs. B134 (Bulkhead harness 134) = A, B135 = B, B136 = C,....

So if you see A13 on the ECU diagram, its plug B134 pin 13.

Hope thats what you were asking.

I also see yours is a 2001 car, and from what you are saying, Did you also have the multiple ECU plug system initially?

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 11:59 AM
thanks UTCiv, thats exactly what I was wondering.. what B6 or B5 meant. The way you described it makes sense now.
BUT, on my diagram if the "ecu" drawing is in the say middle of the page.. some numbers are listed as 111 or 112 or 064...this is whats killing me. Ill try to get a picture up of what Im talking about.

and yes, I have the 3 plug ecu .

like say page 25 on here http://www.ravensblade.com/car/modifications/misc/wiring/wiringdiagram.pdf

subbyspeed
02-20-2006, 12:53 PM
What kinda car is that wiring diagram supposed to be for? Cause i see some crap on there that isn't in my MY01 wiring diagram that i have from subaru.

But if you look on page 26, down at the bottom, it shows the ecu plugs and the pinouts for each plug.

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 01:19 PM
I see... thats what the all data diagram is like too.. pretty damn silly imo.
is it possible that you have a copy of yours that you could email me??

UTCiv
02-20-2006, 01:40 PM
Yeah, it looks like they use the same 1-whatever numbering but break it out into each connector. 134 = Pins 49-72 & 117-124, B135 = 25-48 & 109-116....

But yeah, I'd check to be sure this is for an 01. I got mine of the subaru technical pages. If the pins look right and all the wiring colors match up, thats a good sign.

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 01:43 PM
thats what I just did. I just subscribed to the tech page site..
I appreciate everyones help on this!
Ill see if I can figure it out from here..Im not doing too bad considering I've only been on the wiring for 5 days now. just the little stuff is killing me :)

subbyspeed
02-20-2006, 06:12 PM
as soon as my batteries are done charging, i'll take a couple pics.. They don't look like the link you posted up. ;)

subbyspeed
02-20-2006, 06:37 PM
If you need more, let me know.. It's ghetto, but i don't have a scanner. :p

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c18/allwheeldrive/DSC00163.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c18/allwheeldrive/DSC00158.jpg

sidewayz
02-20-2006, 07:38 PM
subbyspeed.I appreciate it. I registered with tech info on Subarus site. Those diagrams are a whole lot easier for me to read. Im gonna see how far I get in the next few days.

What did you do for power to the Y/L wires on the WRX harness?? The Y/L on the RS harness doesnt get power.

agterlik
02-21-2006, 07:01 PM
I did the exact same swap as you except that I had an 04 engine/engine harness with an 03 ecu and main harness into an 01rs. If you have any specific questions at all I mapped out almost all the wiring and can probably provide some assistance especially with the obdII port and I may possibly have a solution to your rev limit affect. Unfortunately I am stuck at work all night but if you are still having problems I can check over my notes tomorrow afternoon.

The Y/L wires come off the the main relay (the brown relay in the top left of the dash) Power is applied to the Y/L wire when the relay switches on. If the relay is not switching on then either the relay is broke (probably not) or it is not being properly powered.

This is off the top of my head so verify closely or you will fry your ecu (trust me I speak from laughable experience). If I recall correctly there are three B/R wires that go to the relay. Two of them are power (pins 5 and 6 on the relay)and pin # one is ground(not sure if pin 1 is B/R, B/W, or just B). Make sure that the wires going into the relay that should be power have power. (you do have a multimeter correct?) also make sure that pin 1 is actually properly grounded and that you did not forget to hook it up. I am not sure if that ground goes all the way out and grounds to the engine on the intake manifold like most of the sensors or if it is grounded somewhere near the dash.

That reminds me make sure that all of the engine grounds are securely attached. If not you would have random sensors not working as well as numerous other possible problems resulting from them not working such as a high idle and rev limit affect. Definately double check that the grounds that attach to the intake manifold are all properly attached!!!!

Again feel free to pm me any questions you have at all. BTW you live sort of close to my parents maybe when I come home sometime we can meet up. Maybe even street race our swaps in a school zone :) Goodluck

sidewayz
02-22-2006, 12:39 AM
I appreciate the advice bro!

I got the Y/L wire to get power..I missed the trigger wire (the light blue one) once I hooked that bad jammy up WHAMMO! we got power...
she runs great now but now I have 2 issues..
1- still idles high. around 1,200k and wont kick down.
2- getting a few codes. 1 for idle air and 1 for baro sensor. not sure why, but I have a feeling it deals with that shield joint connector.. Im going to dive into that tomorrow.
any tips would be great agterlik !

sidewayz
02-22-2006, 08:32 PM
She runs... but idles high and wont come down..Im talking 1,200 high. runs rough and stinks like fuel.
I am also getting a code. P0129 "baro sensor low" and one for the idle air.
I was also getting a code for the P1446.. but I was able to fool the ecu otherwise :)
Im also getting one every so often for TCM circuit. (I was under the impression that was for A/T only)
She doesnt want to start all the time either..liek she is getting waaaaaaaaaaaay to much fuel.
Im using a Walbro 255 pump.
ANy help would be greatly appreciated!!

btw:helps to have the bosst solenoid vacuum lines hooked up right :) she didnt move otherwise...

speedyHAM
02-22-2006, 10:12 PM
She runs... but idles high and wont come down..Im talking 1,200 high. runs rough and stinks like fuel.
I am also getting a code. P0129 "baro sensor low" and one for the idle air.
I was also getting a code for the P1446.. but I was able to fool the ecu otherwise :)
Im also getting one every so often for TCM circuit. (I was under the impression that was for A/T only)
She doesnt want to start all the time either..liek she is getting waaaaaaaaaaaay to much fuel.
Im using a Walbro 255 pump.
ANy help would be greatly appreciated!!

btw:helps to have the bosst solenoid vacuum lines hooked up right :) she didnt move otherwise...

Idling at 1200 while cold is normal. If it's still doing that while warm you have an issue or two.

Are you sure you have all the coil packs and associated wiring on tight? That will make it stink like gas, run rough, and hard to start. May want to check your plugs again too.

sidewayz
02-23-2006, 01:21 PM
ok..I got the idle down. :) missed yet another ground! and it starts no problem. still getting that baro code
she runs rough, like shes loading up on fuel untill about 2,500k. then she smooths out.Im guessing closed loop?? I might have a TGV wire backwards .. the 04 pinouts show one way, while the 03 pinouts show another.

sidewayz
02-24-2006, 01:10 AM
AND WE CAN STAMP THIS BUILD DONE!

turns out 2 wires I had mixed.. this biotch pulls!!!!!!!! and runs perfect!

ballitch
02-24-2006, 02:06 AM
Sweet!!!!!

US2JDM
02-24-2006, 02:44 AM
Nice! Glad it worked out for you.

subbyspeed
02-24-2006, 11:50 AM
turns out 2 wires I had mixed.. this biotch pulls!!!!!!!! and runs perfect!

Same problem i had with mine, 2 wires in the wrong spots. Congrats and enjoy the new car! :banana:

agterlik
02-27-2006, 10:28 PM
Congrats, have fun and take good care of her :). Sorry I didn't get back to respond again I sort of forgot that I had posted and I do not go in conversions very often anymore.

sidewayz
02-28-2006, 12:11 AM
no problem man.. Now I have to get a different boost guage. I have a cyberdyne at that thing is a POS. its saying that Im only running 9lbs. :eek:
and it only reads when Im at full throttle.