Hey guys....i have an 04 wrx with the cobb AP.... i was running stg 2 91 oct and wanted to change my base map to stg 2 93 oct but when i hooked everything up, the AP came up with a car low voltage message, anyone ever get this before?

help!

Make sure you have every electrical component turned off or you might have a battery with a low charge try taking your car and getting the battery tested.

I may even look into getting a bettery. If you run out of juice midway through the flash, your ECU will be fried and useless. This has happened to some people. Be very sure your battery is good.

I may even look into getting a bettery. If you run out of juice midway through the flash, your ECU will be fried and useless. This has happened to some people. Be very sure your battery is good.

it will not be fried useless, but it will need to be sent to cobb for a fix. I suggest taking your car out for a half hour drive, then flashing.

No, it will be fried if you dont have enough voltage to keep the ECU on during a flash.

Dont post somthing you think you know.

To the starter of the thread, it is also possible you forgot to connect your innitialization connector.

FYI: This forum is full of mis-information. Too many people think they kno now a days, so they post as if they did know, even though they dont, all you have to do is say you "think"!

Do a search!

Did you connect the white flash connector? I know it's a supid question, but you won't have sufficient voltage unless you connect that connector... it's what actually puts the ECU into the higher flashing voltage. If you have done this, it's either a weak battery like everyone else stated or you're Cobb cable is borked (so what else is new).

The "Fried" term is a bit lacking in technical accuracy. In general, if you are reflashing and memory blocks are erased or partially written that are essential to the ECU booting up, you are at risk of having an unbootable ECU if the reflash process dies at that point and you can't resume it .

Once you turn the ignition off and try to boot the ECU again, it won't respond to commands via the OBDII K-line, and so you can't restart the reflash process as you did the previous time. It also will not be able to run the engine. From an end-user perspective, this ECU is dead. This is also why it is important to not turn the car off if you think you have a bad flash and you are still trying to resolve the problem.

Nothing is truly damaged on the ECU however, it just has non-functional software. If you have the right hardware, you can open up the ECU and wire in to the CPU chip on the circuit board (or remove the CPU), and reprogram it via a BDM / JTAG / PROM or other development interface. This is often how these chips get programmed initially at the factory. A Sti ECU, for example, has special connection pads on the PCB where you can connect up 6 wires to a special circuit and reprogram the main CPU. The secondary drive by wire CPU can also be done via a similar method. Once good software is loaded back into the ECU, it will work again and can also be reflashed via the OBD port in the future.

Colby

Did you connect the white flash connector? I know it's a supid question, but you won't have sufficient voltage unless you connect that connector... it's what actually puts the ECU into the higher flashing voltage. If you have done this, it's either a weak battery like everyone else stated or you're Cobb cable is borked (so what else is new)

this just happened to me about a week ago. Changed map to eco mode, went to change it back to stage 1, forgot to hook up the white flash connector. Took me almost an hour to figure out my dumb mistake.

I hooked my car up to a trickle charger while I was flashing. Don't know if this is a good idea or not. I assume the AP has a voltage regulator to knock the voltage down exactly where it needs to be in order to re-write the ECU.

FWIW...if you don't turn everything off..i.e. radio, lights, fan, etc. I was seeing the voltage drop in to the 11.XX range according to my Pasport 8500 (which reads the exact same voltage as a datalog). If I turned everything off, I was seeing the voltage hold around 12.2 with no charger. My trickle charger held it at 13 volts, which is comfortably above the volt minumum that Cobb indicates.

i forgot the flash connector geez thanks for your help...my stupid mistake!

Do a search!



:lol: :lol: :lol: :rolleyes:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946860