Day 1 March 04th - 6 hours of work
-assembled engine stand
-assembled engine hoist
-removed hood
-removed downpipe
-removed intercooler plumbing
-pulled EJ257 long block
-removed crank pull
-removed flywheel and clutch
-removed intake manifold
-removed power steering pump, alternator, and AC compressor
-removed 8cm FP 18G turbo and prepared it to be shipped to FP to make it 8cm FP Red
- removed timing belt cover

Broken parts so far
-Power steering reservoir

I think I got a lot done given that I was working alone. The short block is being replaced with an EJ257 with CP pistons built by Worldone Performance. I'll be using ARP head studs, PE Timing belt, and ACT HD clutch. I don't plan on pushing this setup until I can get a new tranny. I'm currently using a Sti RA 5 speed gear set built by Worldone Performance. I would imagine that I'll be close to its limits (and the diffs) with the FP Red on pump gas. I'm not in a hurry to get this done which is good since I'm waiting on all of the gaskets to arrive and I need the STI cam gear tools. I also have to send my turbo to FP and my Hydra back to Hydra for a firmware upgrade. I haven't decided on if I should go with an internal or external wastegate. I'd like to do the external but nothing fit with the TXS downpipe. I've heard of people denting the downpipe to make EWG fit. If I don’t do that then I guess I would have to buy a new turbo back exhaust, up-pipe, and EWG which is not in my current budget.

run the waste gate externaly and use a screamer pipe (im not responsible for what the police would do to you in the usa for this though!)

Good luck and have fun. What's your experience level?

Corey

What are you doing with your old block? My #2 cylinder is at 90psi and the other 3 all compression tested at 180. I need to either find an "A" piston or get 4 new forged pistons. Money's tight so I am not sure yet which way I am going to go yet.


Mike K

Corey

What are you doing with your old block? My #2 cylinder is at 90psi and the other 3 all compression tested at 180. I need to either find an "A" piston or get 4 new forged pistons. Money's tight so I am not sure yet which way I am going to go yet.


Mike K

I plan on selling the block and it is also around 90psi on the same cylinder. I would not recommend trying to drop another used piston in that block. I think you would be better off with new forged pistons and getting the block bored to match the new pistons.

Good luck and have fun. What's your experience level? I have done a few motor swaps on nissans, hondas, and my Subaru. I've done cams, heads, and other mid level mods to various cars and a lot of the simple bolt ons. I also like to do trouble shooting and fix problems. I'm generally the guy at work that gets asked "Can you tell me whats wrong with my car/truck" or "I'll pay you to fix it". I was actually going to be a Mechanic when I got out of the Army but I decided that it would ruin my hobby. I grew up in a garge becasue my dad has been a mechanic for more than 25years. I have done every thing to my Subaru by myself including the tuning. Well, Subaru of Gwinnett did my Alignment and my friend Todd helped me install my tranny. I'm very comfortable with doing this myself but I'll be held up until I can get the STI came gear tools.

run the waste gate externaly and use a screamer pipe (im not responsible for what the police would do to you in the usa for this though!) I don't think I'll have a problem with the Police :)

Corey

What are you doing with your old block? My #2 cylinder is at 90psi and the other 3 all compression tested at 180. I need to either find an "A" piston or get 4 new forged pistons. Money's tight so I am not sure yet which way I am going to go yet.


Mike K

I also think its amazing that your motor popped before your stock tranny.

I don't think I'll have a problem with the Police :)
if the police aint a problem, mate like i say ruin a screamer pipe off the WG outlet and vent it out the front passenger side wheel arch (close to the door as pos) and have fun! but be carefull if you choose this route as you will spit obcene blue flames for quiet a way out the end!

I also think its amazing that your motor popped before your stock tranny.


I thought my tranny would go first too. I was at the track on Sunday ran about 10 passes. I ran a 12.48 on one pass and trapped 114.92 on another. Not bad for a slipping clutch and 3.5 cylinders.

I am sure my tranny will go as soon as I get the cylinder issue resolved. Isn't that teh way things work :rolleyes:

I am sure my tranny will go as soon as I get the cylinder issue resolved. Isn't that teh way things work :rolleyes:
That is the way it always happens to me.

Disregard all after "good luck." I honestly didn't realize that it was you who started the thread. I must've glanced at your screenname but it didn't register. Maybe you can just consider "what's your experience level?" as an inside joke.;)

I wish I could be down there in order to give a hand. I still might, but right now it's looking like I've got a good chance at going to Indiana Univ soon.

I'd be more than happy to help you research stuff if you run into a snag.

I have done a few motor swaps on nissans, hondas, and my Subaru. I've done cams, heads, and other mid level mods to various cars and a lot of the simple bolt ons. I also like to do trouble shooting and fix problems. I'm generally the guy at work that gets asked "Can you tell me whats wrong with my car/truck" or "I'll pay you to fix it". I was actually going to be a Mechanic when I got out of the Army but I decided that it would ruin my hobby. I grew up in a garge becasue my dad has been a mechanic for more than 25years. I have done every thing to my Subaru by myself including the tuning. Well, Subaru of Gwinnett did my Alignment and my friend Todd helped me install my tranny. I'm very comfortable with doing this myself but I'll be held up until I can get the STI came gear tools.

Disregard all after "good luck." I honestly didn't realize that it was you who started the thread. I must've glanced at your screenname but it didn't register. Maybe you can just consider "what's your experience level?" as an inside joke.;)

I wish I could be down there in order to give a hand. I still might, but right now it's looking like I've got a good chance at going to Indiana Univ soon.

I'd be more than happy to help you research stuff if you run into a snag.

I'm trying to find some STI cam gear tools (used, cheap, rented, borrowed).
Back to school or ROTC instructor?

I've seen where folks have had success by welding a couple of allen wrenches together.

Back to school. A year or so of being a hippy.:)

See if you can borrow them or rent them from SoG. Since you have done buisness there I dont see why they wouldnt let you put a deposit on them. I would not suggest trying to remove the cams gears without them. It can be done but may cost you in the end.

-Matt

See if you can borrow them or rent them from SoG. Since you have done buisness there I dont see why they wouldnt let you put a deposit on them. I would not suggest trying to remove the cams gears without them. It can be done but may cost you in the end.

-Matt

The cam gears are very brittle and I won't attempt it with out the tools. I can only imagine how much an AVCS cam gear costs. I have to go to SOG to get a few things and I'll ask but I doubt they will let me borrow them even with a deposit.

The cam gears are very brittle and I won't attempt it with out the tools. I can only imagine how much an AVCS cam gear costs. I have to go to SOG to get a few things and I'll ask but I doubt they will let me borrow them even with a deposit.

Call me dumb but Im confused. What does this "special tool" actually do? Is there no way to properly remove them w/o this tool?

the cams on a wrx have a place you can get a wrench on to hold the cam while you remove the cam gear. I believe STI cams don't have a place for the wrench.

While we are on the subject,what precautions have to be taken while installing cam gears?
I have some JDM V7 heads, will my stock 2002 wrx cam gears work on these?
Sorry for the jack Corey, I'll start my own thread about my build up and ask my stupid questions in there..Haha

LiquidForce is right, however, my v7 cams had the flatspot in the middle for putting an open-end on.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/heads_header/Cam/full.jpg

These are not essential, but this is what the special tools look like.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/Clipboard03.jpg

While we are on the subject,what precautions have to be taken while installing cam gears?
I have some JDM V7 heads, will my stock 2002 wrx cam gears work on these?
Sorry for the jack Corey, I'll start my own thread about my build up and ask my stupid questions in there..Haha
I don't know about precautions necessarily. Three of the wrx cam gears are plastic and pretty brittle. If you use the special tools or are able to lock the cams with an open-ended wrench (and with a buddy's help), you should be able to get the cam gears off pretty easily. They're torqued, so it'll take some work, though.

I'm guessing you want to disable avcs. If so, WRX cams gears will work. They're what I'm using right now.

If you want avcs enabled, you've probably already done your research, but you'll need the appropriate cam gears, appropriate ecu, the wiring capability to enable an additional cam position sensor and to plug into the avcs electrical connector on each side. Also, and I found out the hard way, you'll need the metal (brass, I think) oil feed tubes that screw into the top of the solenoids. One's real long (pass. side) and goes underneath the intake manifold runners. The other (dr. side) is short.

Thanks for the info. Yes, I will not be running AVCS so I guess my wrx cam gears will work just fine. Impacting the cam gears off prolly wouldnt be a good idea I pressume??? Im also assuming that installing the cam gears would be the same proccess as taken them off....

You're right and yes.:)

If you do a quick search on google or on here, Phil from Element Tuning wrote a great description of how to properly install v7 or v8 heads. I think it discusses disabling avcs as well.

thanks for the tip.

You're right and yes.:)

If you do a quick search on google or on here, Phil from Element Tuning wrote a great description of how to properly install v7 or v8 heads. I think it discusses disabling avcs as well.

LiquidForce is right, however, my v7 cams had the flatspot in the middle for putting an open-end on.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/heads_header/Cam/full.jpg

These are not essential, but this is what the special tools look like.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/Clipboard03.jpg
I have heard of too many people breaking the cam gears and with my bad luck I'll probably break one even though I'll be using the cam tool.

i would think that the best way to crack those bolts loose without putting stress on the cam gears themselves is with an impact gun.

i've never tried it though. ;)

I tried with my electric impact but it doesn't have enough torque to break them loose. I can't wait to be able to afford to build a shop at my house so I'll have enough room fo more tools.


I haven't done any further work on this progect. I am planning on removing a valve cover and checking to see if the STI cams have the flat spot for a wrench. I work from 7pm to 7am so I can only work on it on my off days.

i would think that the best way to crack those bolts loose without putting stress on the cam gears themselves is with an impact gun.

i've never tried it though. ;)

I was told this was a bad idea? I have a 1000 ft/lb impact gun and I bet it would take those bolts right out but I thought it might cause some damage????

I don't have any idea whether an impact wrench would be a good idea or not. However, considering the fact that there is even the smallest probability I could break something, and the potentially high cost of replacing certain parts, I figured that I was better safe than sorry. Those bolts are on there pretty good, but with someone holding the cam in place and someone else loosening the cam gear bolts, it really isn't that hard.

Another quick caveat, though. The first time we did this, we couldn't find an open-end wrench big enough to hold onto the cam. We ended up using a large crescent but were very careful. However, it did indent the side casting of my old WRX head just a tad.

I don't have any idea whether an impact wrench would be a good idea or not. However, considering the fact that there is even the smallest probability I could break something, and the potentially high cost of replacing certain parts, I figured that I was better safe than sorry. Those bolts are on there pretty good, but with someone holding the cam in place and someone else loosening the cam gear bolts, it really isn't that hard.

Another quick caveat, though. The first time we did this, we couldn't find an open-end wrench big enough to hold onto the cam. We ended up using a large crescent but were very careful. However, it did indent the side casting of my old WRX head just a tad.
I've been lazy today and still haven't spent the 30 seconds it would take to remove a valve cover and check the cams. I think I'll do it the way you did if I can. The only thing I have accomplished in the past few days is that I shipped my turbo to Forced Performance for the rebuild. Still no gaskets so I really can't do to much.

No there is not a spot to put a wrench on the USDM STi cams. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN TO REMOVE THE CAM GEAR BOLT!!! I did this on my WRX and it broke the cam.

-Matt

How did it break the cam?

No there is not a spot to put a wrench on the USDM STi cams. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN TO REMOVE THE CAM GEAR BOLT!!! I did this on my WRX and it broke the cam.

-Matt

Maybe I got lucky but I tried this on my old wrx heads and the cam gear bolts came right off w/o any damage......

How did it break the cam?

I am guessing the vibration from the impact on the bolt resulted in the peice of the cam, where the cam seal sits against, broke off. We had a timing belt holding the gear while we used the impact to break it loose. After doing that to one I found out how to put the wrench on the cam (on my WRX).

-Matt

I saw someone get those cam gears off easily using a chain wrench and a piec eof an old timing belt. He cut the piece of timing belt to just be long to wrap around the gear. Then he wrapped the chain wrench around that piece of timing belt which allowed him to hold the gear in place. At that point it was just a matter of holding that in place while you crank on the breaker bar to remove the bolt...

We had a timing belt holding the gear while we used the impact to break it loose.

i think that was what put the torque on the gear itself, rather than putting it on the camshaft directly.

Seems like I've pulled/replaced cams more than a few times and each time has been simple. Atleast, the WRX cam have the notches on the camshaft before the cam cap area and we used a 23mm open end wrench (might have been a 22 or 24 I can't remember). On the front of the shaft I then used an allen socket with a breaker bar over the rathchet. It's a one person job. You've just got to be creative ;)

From my first swap (I'm not in the pic...see how smart I am?;)) Actually, we just broke it so they were just posing for posterity.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/8FEB04/8Febb.jpg

Mike in the blue has got ahold of the cam, Dan with the tat is making sure the allen doesn't pop out, Sean is, well, trying to break the bolt free.

From my first swap (I'm not in the pic...see how smart I am?;)) Actually, we just broke it so they were just posing for posterity.
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/8FEB04/8Febb.jpg

Mike in the blue has got ahold of the cam, Dan with the tat is making sure the allen doesn't pop out, Sean is, well, trying to break the bolt free.


Pat....you guys are nuts :lol:

I forgot to mention that prior to getting to this point, we did in fact a) stip out the cam gear bolt (not that one, but pass side intake) as well as break off a few teeth on the same cam gear...don't ask.:lol: We only got it off but but to do it, we had to carry the entire engine to a shop to have another 1" bolt welded onto the stripped one, which I've still got.:) [see short thread here (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499118)]

we had to carry the entire engine to a shop to have another 1" bolt welded onto the stripped one, which I've still got.:)

thank god for aluminum blocks and heads, eh? ;)

I decided to check the cams for the flat spot (even though someone said it wouldn't be there) and the EJ257 cams don't have it. Someone mentioned a chain wrench wrapped around the timing belt and I looked at the possibility of someone doing that but there in no way it will fit between the cam gears. I wouldn't have tried it that way because I just know I would break something. So, I'll be waiting for the proper tools to arrive.

My turbo arrived at Force Performance yesterday and I won't get it back for about two weeks. So, there is no need for me to get in a hurry.

Someone mentioned a chain wrench wrapped around the timing belt and I looked at the possibility of someone doing that but there in no way it will fit between the cam gears.


You could do that. I've done it on my metal cam sprocket before but chickened out on doing it on the plastic ones :D Like what was mentioned above, take off your timing belt and then find an old timing belt that you could cut a strip out that would fit the diameter of the sprocket. I really don't think you'll have any breakage doing it that way. I just wouldn't put the chain part by itself around the plastic one. The small piece of belt should do the trick. This will be a two eprson job...one holds the chain wrench steady and the other guy uses the rathchet (w/socket hex) with a breaker bar.

You could do that. I've done it on my metal cam sprocket before but chickened out on doing it on the plastic ones :D Like what was mentioned above, take off your timing belt and then find an old timing belt that you could cut a strip out that would fit the diameter of the sprocket. I really don't think you'll have any breakage doing it that way. I just wouldn't put the chain part by itself around the plastic one. The small piece of belt should do the trick. This will be a two eprson job...one holds the chain wrench steady and the other guy uses the rathchet (w/socket hex) with a breaker bar.
It won't fit between the cam gears. I tried a craftsman rubber belt wrench and the rubber strap was to thick to fit between the cam gears and its a lot thinner that a chain wrench. It would work if I could wrap it around both gears at the same time.

It won't fit between the cam gears. I tried a craftsman rubber belt wrench and the rubber strap was to thick to fit between the cam gears and its a lot thinner that a chain wrench. It would work if I could wrap it around both gears at the same time.

Man that's crazy. In memory I was sure that there was more room there. Oh well, back to the drawing board :lol:

You can either use the flat spot in the middle (WRX cams), or use the flat spot near the cam gear right before the cam bearings. Look at the picture below:

http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/New_Engine/heads_header/Cam/full.jpg

I've had success with both methods.

This is exactly what I was saying from above. So the STI cams don't have this??

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6868/full9bn.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Day 1 March 04th - 6 hours of work
-assembled engine stand
-assembled engine hoist
-removed hood
-removed downpipe
-removed intercooler plumbing
-pulled EJ257 long block
-removed crank pull
-removed flywheel and clutch
-removed intake manifold
-removed power steering pump, alternator, and AC compressor
-removed 8cm FP 18G turbo and prepared it to be shipped to FP to make it 8cm FP Red
- removed timing belt cover

Broken parts so far
-Power steering reservoir

I think I got a lot done given that I was working alone. The short block is being replaced with an EJ257 with CP pistons built by Worldone Performance. I'll be using ARP head studs, PE Timing belt, and ACT HD clutch. I don't plan on pushing this setup until I can get a new tranny. I'm currently using a Sti RA 5 speed gear set built by Worldone Performance. I would imagine that I'll be close to its limits (and the diffs) with the FP Red on pump gas. I'm not in a hurry to get this done which is good since I'm waiting on all of the gaskets to arrive and I need the STI cam gear tools. I also have to send my turbo to FP and my Hydra back to Hydra for a firmware upgrade. I haven't decided on if I should go with an internal or external wastegate. I'd like to do the external but nothing fit with the TXS downpipe. I've heard of people denting the downpipe to make EWG fit. If I don’t do that then I guess I would have to buy a new turbo back exhaust, up-pipe, and EWG which is not in my current budget.


I know this is the "built motor" forum, but I thought I'd throw in some advice on your tranny since you mentioned it's limits.

Assuming you're afraid of your tranny limits for when you're launching hard or shifting hard into 2nd, right? Well, you already invested in a RA set, so I'm sure it's hard to invest in a full dog box or STI tranny now.

Unabomber has talked extensively about doing a 1-2 ppg, 3-5 OEM gearset for people who are cost concerned but want the strength to launch hard. Andrew at Gearbox tech has actually mentioned that the ratios on his 1-2 would better match a JDM RA set, than an OEM WRX set. The two gears can be had for around $1600. Although it's expensive, I think it would be a sick 5-speed setup, only to be topped by a full PPG 1-4. You would have to really drive hard/bad to break gears on this setup. Since you got your RA's from World One, I know their RA's come cryo treated and shot-peened. This setup should satisfy your engine and turbo setup no problem.

impact gun wont really work and I've been told its a no-no fwiw.

an open end wrench will fit but it wouldn't help me with my last cam gear. We ended up destroying it and having to order a new one.

The tial 44mm will work with a txs downpipe, check out amI2fst4u's posts, he's the one I modeled mine after. Its a tight fit and sorta angled toward the trans, but it worked.

The USDM STi cams do not have the flat spot for a wrench.

I used an old timing belt and a set of vice grips to hold the belt / cam gear in place, then whacked the allen wrench with a dead-blow hammer.

If you do decide to use a chain wrench, make sure you have enough material under the chain....you don't want any knicks on the gears to shred the belt.

HTH

S.

I'm still waiting on the gaskets and tools. So, i haven't made any further progress. My 8cm FP Red should be back soon but I had to go with the internal gate for now because I didn't have the money for an external setup. I'll just have to do that later.

You do not need an external gate setup. Your turbine housing is designed for an internal gate.

You do not need an external gate setup. Your turbine housing is designed for an internal gate.
I know how the turbo is designed. :rolleyes: I don't "need" an external gate setup. I want one for better boost control and they have been proven to make more power on the bigger FP turbos.

I made this. Sorry about the size. I used this on the lower sprockets with the belt on and was able to loosen the top bolts. I suppose you could do the same with an sti.http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f80/Tsandman/7547b93c.jpg

tim s.,

That's crafty! Proves there's more than one way to skin a cat (or something like that :lol: )

As you can tell I'm not in a hurry to get this done. Anyway, yesterday I decided to remove the TGV's and it went smooth. I then tried to break the cam bolts loose but instead I broke a craftsman belt wrench and a hex socket. After I broke the belt wrench I tried wrapping the timing belt around two cam gears and the crank gear and tightened the belt with vise grips. The cam I was attempting to loosen kept jumping teeth on the belt. I then wrapped the belt around one cam gear and the crank gear and it held the cam gear perfectly. I had about four feet of pipe on a breaker bar trying to loosen the bolt but the hex socket broke first. I guess I'll have to buy a stronger hex socket and try it again.

i went through about 3 or 4 hex sockets on my last cam gear before we realized it just wasn't coming loose.

they were all very hard to break loose, I had spit a shim though and Im not sure if that somehow supertorqued my last cam gear or something, but eventually we broke the cam-gear itself trying to get it off. you'll get it, it'll just require a six-pack and a lot of cursing.

I broke two more hex sockets and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor. I still haven't been able to loosen one cam gear bolt. Today I'm going to find the stongest hex sockets on the planet, or get craftsman so I can take them back when then break. I'm also going to SOG to pick up/order various o-rings, seals, and gaskets required for assembly.

Have you tried an allen wrench inside of a good, solid floor jack handle (with both pieces of the handle together.)

No. I have a small jack so I can't. I bought two more hex sockets and I'm ordering an impact hex socket and impact 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor. I was searching and found a post by Darth Chicken who stated that some people have drilled a small hole in the center of the bolt that relives tension and the bolt come out easy. The only problem is that you have to buy new bolts at $8 each. I'm not to the point of attempting it that yet.

After doing this a few times now, I'm still in awe that getting the bolts off is so difficult. I know that's not making this any easier but I'm still surprised ;)

Some of our machinist friends need to fab a tool for aligning/removing the cam gears.

Be careful. It's easy to rotate the gears the wrong way and bend valves.

S.

Broken tools
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01252.jpg

I'm laughing, but it's not funny. I feel you man. I'm just crossing my fingers that you're not forced to break something to get that bugger off.

Not that this is a course of action, but as a last ditch effort, we actually ended up taking the entire engine to a welder who welded a big 1" nut onto the end of that cam gear bolt.:)

Not that this is a course of action, but as a last ditch effort, we actually ended up taking the entire engine to a welder who welded a big 1" nut onto the end of that cam gear bolt.:)
How did you keep the cam from moving?

I have the flat spots on them.

The reason we welded the nut on was because we had tried so many things to break the original bolt loose that we stripped it. We had to get something to put a wrench on.

I may be getting close to stripping one of the bolts. I have tried all four and can't get any of them to budge. I'd like to know how the Subaru tech's get the bolts off. My guess is they use an impact and the gear wrenches.

i don't see what the issue is with using the impact...

I finally got all of the cam bolts loose. I'd like give a big thumbs up to Snap on for making tools that don't break. I was at work last night and I saw a Snap on truck behind me. I pulled over to let him pass and then stalked him until he stopped. He had exactly what I needed, a 1/2" drive 10mm hex socket. I bought a few other tools from him and since he lives less than 10 miles away I'm sure I'll buy a lot more Snap on tools. He made my day. The best part is I'm home alone all weekend with no transportation (other than my work vehicle) so I would not have had a way to go buy any tools. If I can con a friend into bring me to Subaru of Gwinnett, I should have the new motor in this weekend. I also got a phone call from Forced Performace and my Turbo should ship on Tuesday. :banana: :banana:

Excellent!

Damn, if only I were down there....

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01267.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01254.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01264.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01265.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01268.jpg

Ah yes. A thing of beauty. Looks like it coming along.

a long hex key on mine....jsut don't be skeert and jump on it. literally. jump on the hex key. extend the handle if you have to. that is how i got mine loose.

are those weisco pistons?

CP Pistons

Today I installed the ARP head studs, oil pan, and oil cooler. I aslo started to clean the carbon off of the valves and prep the heads to be installed. I'm at a stopping point since I haven't been to Subaru to pick the cam seals and various other gaskets. I need to get another torque wrench since mine only goes to a min. of 20 ft lbs. and the cam bolts need to be torqued way below that. I also need to pick up a standard sized 12pt socket for the ARP nuts. I always thought that I wouldn't need any standard tools since I don't buy American cars. Guess I was wrong.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01277.jpg

now why would ARP put a standard size 12pt head on a metric bolt????

I was told it was standard sized but I'll take one with me when I go to buy the socket. The ARP studs and nuts look tiny compared to the stock head bolts.

I need to get another torque wrench since mine only goes to a min. of 20 ft lbs. and the cam bolts need to be torqued way below that.
As I recall, so do the oil pan bolts that you already installed.

At any rate, there's a lot more to come that will require a good in-lb torque wrench.

As I recall, so do the oil pan bolts that you already installed.

At any rate, there's a lot more to come that will require a good in-lb torque wrench.

Things like oil pan bolts don't need to be torqued; you should be able to go by feel. Same with valve cover bolts, etc. Common sense applies. I never trust the tiny tq specs. I've seen too many broken 10mm bolts. But that's just me.

As I recall, so do the oil pan bolts that you already installed.

At any rate, there's a lot more to come that will require a good in-lb torque wrench.

I torqued those bolts with a cheap torque wrech that I won't use for important torque specs. An in lb torque wrench is what I'm going to buy when my wife gets back from Savannah. She left me at home all weekend with only my work vehicle for transportation and I don't plan on driving that because I like having a JOB.

Things like oil pan bolts don't need to be torqued; you should be able to go by feel. Same with valve cover bolts, etc. Common sense applies. I never trust the tiny tq specs. I've seen too many broken 10mm bolts. But that's just me.
I agree.

now why would ARP put a standard size 12pt head on a metric bolt????
I called ARP and they told me that its a 1/2" 12pt nut. I figured it would be standard since they are an American company. :lol:

I called ARP and they told me that its a 1/2" 12pt nut. I figured it would be standard since they are an American company. :lol:

dunno...that sounds pretty retarded to me....putting a standard hex head on a metric bolt.

those silly americans!

I got all of the oil seals, gaskets, and tools I need to finish this project. :) Now all I need is some spare time. :(

I dropped my heads and flywheel off to get resurfaced and they will be ready Friday. I some how scrathched both heads near the bores. They were small scratches but I didn't feel comfortable leaving them there since I plan on running 30 psi in the future. I hope I have enough time to get the motor in the this weekend. Then I'll be waiting on the turbo to arrive.

I picked up my heads and flywheel. Both heads had .004 grinded off and they look great. The flywheel has a few small surface cracks from heat. I will be using the torque specs from the following quote.
Sorry, I take what I do very serious.

I am available to answer your questions, but only if you ask!

I use the lube that I supplyed with the studs.

If you ask three different people the same question, you are bound to get different answers. That is human nature. Add performance to the equation and our egos seem to take over.

This is the exact process that I use.

First I make sure that nothing is at the bottom of the stud hole in the block. Do NOT use a tap to chase / clean the threads.

Then I put some oil on the bottom threds of the studs.

I then run them in untill they bottom out in the block, "they must bottom out".

Install the gasket and head.

Put the lube on the studs so that when you put the washers on there will be lube between the head and washer. Look at the washer and put the rounded outside edge against the head.

Put more lube on the studs, then install the nuts. Extra lube is better than not enough.

Torque to 20 ft lbs.
Torque to 40 ft lbs.
Torque to 60 ft lbs.
Torque to 85 ft lbs.

I let the motor sit for an hour or so and then retorque at 85.

If you are anal, retorque after running the motor.

I have checked the torque after running on the dyno and during tear down, the only time I see a change is when the motor has been overheated.

Good luck,
Quirt Crawford
Crawford Performance

Can someone tell me the part numbers for the sti intake cam oil seals. The ones that I ordered seem to be to thick for the intake cam gears to seat properly. I was told they were all the same and Subaru gave me part #806732160. They work fone on the exhaust cams and the exhaust cam gears fit. I called Subaru again and was told they are the right oil seals. I checked to make sure that I had them all the way in and they won't go in any further. I gues my question is: Do I have the right parts or am I doing something wrong? :(

They're not. I've got a minor leak right now because they're not. However, the pn your dealer gave you is correct according to the Subaru-Fast program I've got...but for the exhaust cam. The intake cam is 806742160.

When I tried to get them through the dealership, I was told they didn't stock them. I assumed that SOA didn't stock JDM parts. I dunno.

So where can I get them? My motor is a JDM Forester Sti 2.5 but it is the same as the USDM motor. Phil form Element tuning had the same motor and needed to replace a head. When he replaced the head he said they were identical. My guess is that I was given the wrong parts.

If your heads are the same as the US STi, you obviously ought to be able to get some from the dealership, but what your question helped me to learn tonight was that the intake and the exhaust cam seals are in fact different on the JDM v7 STi. Leads me to believe that your dealership may have their heads in the sand.

I have the same program that they do, but mine isn't updated. It only goes up to 2003 and doesn't include ej257 (unless there's another 'model code' I'm not aware of) and I don't know how to update it.

If there's any chance at all, see if they'll let you come behind the desk and look for the pn.

I'll post some screen shots here shortly that might be helpful.

Well, I go to Subaru of Gwinnett and they are usually goodat getting the right parts. Maybe there is a difference between the heads I have and the USDM heads. I was told they were the same and all of the cam gears look the same as the ones in the USDM Sti manual. The good news is that Forced Performance called and my 8cmRED was shipped today.

More bad news. I cut through the end of my thumb and thumb nail while I was scraping crap out of the tgv housings. I was using a hook scraper (like the ones you use to clean carbon from guns) and I slipped. I stabbed my bottom of my thumb and ripped through the bottom of my finger nail. My four year old daughter gave me a "Hello Kitty" band aid so its all better.

http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/friends/screenshots/Clipboard01.jpg
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/friends/screenshots/Clipboard02.jpg
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/friends/screenshots/Clipboard03.jpg
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/friends/screenshots/Clipboard04.jpg
http://awd.chargeair.boxerwagon.gpatmac.com/friends/screenshots/Clipboard05.jpg

edit: I know that the illustrations are for 207. I just wanted to show the possible distinction between intake & exhaust.

I've only heard & seen good things about Gwinnett, so maybe they know exactly what they're looking for.

The intake cam cannot side on far enough to seat properly. That is why I think I was given the wronk cam seals for the intake cams. I thought there would be a different seal for the AVCS cams. They would probably fit if I put them in backwards. :lol:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01351.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01353.jpg

I was also told that almost all cam seals were the same when I was sourcing some for my V7 JDM heads........Crap if that aint true then its just more research I dont want to do :furious:

They're not. I've got a minor leak right now because they're not. However, the pn your dealer gave you is correct according to the Subaru-Fast program I've got...but for the exhaust cam. The intake cam is 806742160.

When I tried to get them through the dealership, I was told they didn't stock them. I assumed that SOA didn't stock JDM parts. I dunno.
Subaru gave me the wrong seals. I got the right ones today which are part# 806742160. Thank you for helping. By the way if you need the same seals they are also used in the USDM Sti.

I think I have the same heads as you. If it weren't for you asking the question, I would have had a time in figuring out why my cam keeps leaking. So thank you.

Yesterday I installed the motor and today I installed the FMIC and exhaust. I called Phil (Element Tuning) around 3 months ago and told him that I needed a map for my new setup. I told him what mods I had and he e-mailed me a new map. At around 6pm I download the new map to the Hydra. I tuned the key on a few time to get the fuel pressure up and then I attempted to start the car. I started the first time. I checked for oil and coolant leaks and there were none. I checked all gauges and the Hydra display and everything was normal. I then noticed that I had an injector leaking gas so I turned the car off. I new that I probably broke the injector o-ring. What makes me mad is that I've swapped injectors so many times and know that the o-rings break from time to time. What make me even madder is that this morning I was at a parts store and was looking at the o-rings thinking that I may need some just in case. I didn't buy any and now I need them. If I would have bought them I wouldn't have needed them. I guess it will be a few more days until I can drive it. Thats okay because my goal was to have it done before my B-Day, which is Sunday.


Also, installing the FP Red was a bit of a PITA. Mainly trying to fit the Perrin 3 inch inlet pipe to the turbo. I spent more time trying to get that thing to fit than I did bolting in the motor. I have seen some people say that they have installed the FP Red without doing the TGV delete and that would be a huge PITA. I also did some fancy (looks like a pile of dog poop) bending to get the stock oil pipe to fit the turbo. I had the after make oil feed line but I can't find it.

I also did some fancy (looks like a pile of dog poop) bending to get the stock oil pipe to fit the turbo. I had the after make oil feed line but I can't find it.

when I put in my new motor, I had an aftermarket oil line which was the cause of a mystery oil leak, turns out the banjo fitting screws into the braided line and got loose while securing it to the motor. took me about a day to figure that one out.

im convinced these headaches are necessary for the end result :devil:

Today was the fisrt oil change after letting the motor warm up and idle for 10-15 minutes. Then I went for a quick test drive. I found a small oil leak on the turbo oil inlet pipe because it was not tight enough.

Corey,

Its david with the other white wrx. I had no clue that you were putting in a new motor! I haven't been online in a while. Hal never told me. Let me know if you need any help with future projects and I want to see the car once it is broken in.

I thought you were the other, other, white WRX. I can't wait to start tuning and crank up the boost. I plan on keeping it around 22psi on pump gas. I really want to run 93/meth and crank the boost up but I can't afford to break anything. I would imagine that my diffs, clutch, and tranny are the weak parts. Well, I decided not go with the ACT street disk to save the tranny. I would have got the 6-puck but I think it might be too much for the Sti RA gears. The ACT clutch looks exactly like the exedy organic but yellow. It even said exedy on the clutch disk. Its funny how people argue about which one is better. I have had both and think they may be the same thing. ACT may have modded the pressure plate a bit but they sure look the same.

I'm at a little over 100 miles of break in and every thing is:banana::banana: . I'm trying not to make any boost but sometimes its hard not too. The most I've seen is 3-4 psi. The good thing is that I'm keeping it under 4000 rpm and the 8cm FP Red doesn't get full boost at 2900 rpm like my 8cm FP18g did. With the 18g I could get 15psi while going up a slight hill with the cruise control on in 5th gear. I think my cruising gas mileage will also go up for the same reason.

I decided to re-calibrate my wideband today. I broke it trying to get it out so it looks like I'll be ordering a new NTK L1H1 or L2H2.

Just incase anyone else is looking for the NTK L1H1 you can get it from www.oxygensensor.net (http://www.oxygensensor.net/l1h1.html) for $185 shipped and they only take PayPal. My Hydra came with that sensor and some use the NTK L2H2 which is a replacement. $185 is cheap when compared to $350 - $450 from local parts stores. They also have the Bosch LSU-4 for $145. I think that is what the TXS tuner uses.

I thought that I would post some pictures since I'm finshed with the install. I think I could have finished this by myself in 3 days if I had all the parts and tools on hand (and did break anything). It is an easy project for a mid level do-it-yourselfer. That being said, I have completely built other engines myself and have done suby engine swaps and that also helps. Some people will get it done faster and some will take a lot longer. I'll just note that I need a new air filter and I need to clean the engine bay and under the hood. Appearently if you start your car with a plastic bag round the air filter, it will collapse. I forgot to remover the plastic bag after I cleaned the engine bay(Prior to this install).

I'm going to keep replying in this post about my experience with the Built Motor. I guess it will be like a journal on my motor.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01355.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01356.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01358.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01361.jpg

I've got a very technical question for you...

Could you measure your hood struts for me?;) I'd like to buy some from autozone or something, but don't know the specs. I want to say that the shiny part is 7.25" or so.

Oh yeah, MEGA CONGRATS & KUDUS!!!
Gracias,
Pat

Nice job! This thread is making me consider assembling my motor... the only problem is that I have never built a motor. I've done everthing else on the car many times. I just wonder if I trust myself enough.

Just incase anyone else is looking for the NTK L1H1 you can get it from www.oxygensensor.net (http://www.oxygensensor.net/l1h1.html) for $185 shipped and they only take PayPal. My Hydra came with that sensor and some use the NTK L2H2 which is a replacement. $185 is cheap when compared to $350 - $450 from local parts stores. They also have the Bosch LSU-4 for $145. I think that is what the TXS tuner uses.



What wideband controller do you have?

What wideband controller do you have?

The Hydra EMS controls the wideband. The wideband is the only o2 sensor that I use. Right now I'm running off of the fuel map which is intentionally rich so my gas mileage sucks. I'm thinking about get the PLX 500r unless the Hydra display has the features I'm looking for, but its not out yet.

I've got a very technical question for you...

Could you measure your hood struts for me?;) I'd like to buy some from autozone or something, but don't know the specs. I want to say that the shiny part is 7.25" or so.

Oh yeah, MEGA CONGRATS & KUDUS!!!
Gracias,
Pat
Overall lenght is 18"(the whole assembly from end to end). I measured the lenght of the "shiny part" from the "green part" to end and it was 7.25". The actual lenght of the "shiny part" will be shorter because it screws into the female ball joint mount. There are cheaper compaines that make WRX kits for around $75. I think redline is one of them. I counldn't pass on the green Tein hood dampers because they match my Tein coilovers. :lol:

Thanks very much.

Nice job! This thread is making me consider assembling my motor... the only problem is that I have never built a motor. I've done everthing else on the car many times. I just wonder if I trust myself enough.
I can't take credit for building the motor. I was going to do it myself but the cost would have been higher since there are a lot of tools I would need to buy. I bought the short block from Worldone Performance and did the rest of the work myself. It not only cut down on the cost but the time it took to build. All it take is confidence, planning, and following instructions. The way I look at it is that if one man can do it, so can another. I do as much as I can, within my abilities, and it saves money. There is no way I could have afforded to pay someone to all of my mods. I've even thought about going to the local tech college and taking construction, HVAC, and other classes that will help me learn how to do things myself. I say go for it. There are a lot of people that are willing to help if you run into problems, although there are also a lot people on this forum that give out false info. Good luck with your project.

I can't take credit for building the motor. I was going to do it myself but the cost would have been higher since there are a lot of tools I would need to buy. I bought the short block from Worldone Performance and did the rest of the work myself. It not only cut down on the cost but the time it took to build. All it take is confidence, planning, and following instructions. The way I look at it is that if one man can do it, so can another. I do as much as I can, within my abilities, and it saves money. There is no way I could have afforded to pay someone to all of my mods. I've even thought about going to the local tech college and taking construction, HVAC, and other classes that will help me learn how to do things myself. I say go for it. There are a lot of people that are willing to help if you run into problems, although there are also a lot people on this forum that give out false info. Good luck with your project.


Yeah but are you truly interested in HVAC or construction? ;) Just messing with you man. You're right though, it definitely cuts down on precious time, that's for sure. It's intimidating for sure, though. I second guess my work every time I beat on it. I've got more than 4500 miles now. It's been strong and the only reason I wonder is because I went over the recommended bore increase for the block. Otherwise, I love this stuff....just depends on what floats you boat I guess :)

Well, my break-in is going about as slow as my build. I've only had enough time to to drive about 325 miles. I have been keeping it under 4000rpm and have only hit 3-5psi a few times. Driving around town has been fine and I can't see way anyone would complain about the FP Red for daily driving. I haven't been able to feel the LAG yet since I'm not running any boost but off boost is fine around town. Even pulling out into a lot of traffic is not a problem. I still have a catch can to install but the wrong one was shipped. I'm considering on using the Crawford Air/Oil seperator but I think the price is alittle high. I'm sure another company will copy it and sell it for cheaper. I would to see Helix make one.

What's your impression of the ACT clutch? In traffic is it as forgiving as the oem? Did you just swap out clutch disk or the entire assy (clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel)?

What's your impression of the ACT clutch? In traffic is it as forgiving as the oem? Did you just swap out clutch disk or the entire assy (clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel)?
I switched from the exedy organic to the ACT HD street (entire assembly). I think its same clutch but yellow. I could be wrong but it sure looks the same. Its been years since I have had a stock clutch but I have driven a few stock clutch WRX's in the past year. From what I remember the pedal is softer. I don't have a problem with it while driving in traffic. The six puck will be a little less fun to drive in traffic but most people still say its streetable. I wanted to get the six puck but I think it combined with my setup will put too much stress on the Sti RA gears.

I have decided not to use a catch can and I'll be using an air/oil seperator. Hopefully I'll get it next week.

I drove it Drift Atlanta this weekend to put some more miles on it. I'm around 600 miles on the break in.

Congradulations man. After finally securing a reliable daily driver with good gas mileage (100+ miles/day as a construction manager), I'm ready start the 2.5 swap into my '02 bugeye. Will be going with a Gruppe-S Stage 1 with Helix 264 Cams in my stock heads (and my VF30 temporarily) with a UTEC tune. Will later go up to a 20G and AndrewTech upgraded gears.

Reading through this thread has given me some serious courage and some good tips for the tricky areas.

Thanks again and good luck. Can't wait to hear about it after the breakin.

Tony

Congradulations man. After finally securing a reliable daily driver with good gas mileage (100+ miles/day as a construction manager), I'm ready start the 2.5 swap into my '02 bugeye. Will be going with a Gruppe-S Stage 1 with Helix 264 Cams in my stock heads (and my VF30 temporarily) with a UTEC tune. Will later go up to a 20G and AndrewTech upgraded gears.

Reading through this thread has given me some serious courage and some good tips for the tricky areas.

Thanks again and good luck. Can't wait to hear about it after the breakin.

Tony
The VF30 on a that motor will do a lot better than you would think. It will spool quick with a lot of torque low down and peole have trapped 112mph on 93 octane. Good luck with your project.

Well, I went WOT for the first time a few days ago. I'm not to 1000 miles but I was left no choice because I was passing and an on coming car was driving too fast. It sounds great but not a lot power since its rich as hell and I'm running waste gate boost. I don't even know how much boost it was since I was more concerned about not being in a head on collision.

I also installed a new WBo2 sensor for the Hydra. It didn't come with the right connector so I had to rewire it but it works great. Plus it was half the price of the Hydra sensor. Its Honda part #36531-P07-003 which is marked on the website as a NTK L1H1 but the wire colors suggest its an NTK L2H2, which is a direct replacement for the L1H1 and said to be a better sensor. Hopefully I'll get to 1000 miles soon so I can start tuning.

I started tuning watse gate boost which just under 15psi. I spools quicker than I thught it would and boost stays steady to redline. No boost creep. I'm using a 8cm FP Red, IWG and TXS manual boost controller. I haven't looked at my logs yet but from watching the boost gauge and the tach its just under 15 psi around 3500 rpm. Now for the bad news. I checked the oil and it was a little low. I was hoping it wasn't an oil consumption problem. I found an oil leak on the passenger head and I'm sure its a cam seal. I glad the motor was leaking and not consuming oil. So, I'm going to Subaru to get two new cam seals. I'm not looking forward to installing them. :(

1200 miles on the motor and I changed the oil again. I also started tuning and have got it up to 20 psi. In fourth gear it hits 20psi before 4000rpm. I still have a lot of tuning left because its still too rich and the boost needs to go up some more. I can't see why anyone would complain about lag on the FP RED. Unless they race in the 1000-4000 rpm range. :lol: I need a meth kit.

No oil consumption at all and I have all of the breather hoses and the pcv valve and hoses routed the factory way. Until my air/oil seperater arrives. I wanted to take it to the track Friday for test and tune but my helmet is expired. If I do go, I don't expect good numbers since I'm no where near finished with the pump gas tune.

Sweet... Good to hear you've got your oil leek solved.

Can't you borrow a helmet?

Keep us posted.

Tony

Sweet... Good to hear you've got your oil leek solved.

Can't you borrow a helmet?

Keep us posted.

Tony
I probably could but I just found out that the there will be no test-n-tune to night because there is an all Harley drag event this weekend.

4th gear spool (8cm FP Red)
coolant temp (C) AFR (:1) engine speed (rpm) tps (%) boost (psi) vehicle speed (kph) knock ramp (V) air temp (C) duty cycle (%) knock ret. (deg.) boost valve (%) cell X (n) cell Y (n) fuel pulse (ms) vacuum (mmHg) advance (deg.)
4:45:48 PM 84 16 2,150.00 69.2 0 39 0.4 38 8.4 0 0 9 5 4.2 21 37
4:45:48 PM 84 16 2,150.00 85.2 0 39 0.5 38 8.4 0 0 9 5 4.2 15 37
4:45:48 PM 84 15.9 2,150.00 99.6 0 40 0.3 38 10 0 0 10 5 5.1 6 36
4:45:48 PM 84 15.8 2,200.00 102 0 40 0.2 38 10.4 0 0 10 5 4.8 3 36
4:45:48 PM 84 15.7 2,200.00 102 0 40 0.2 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 35
4:45:48 PM 84 15.3 2,200.00 102 0 40 0.8 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 35
4:45:48 PM 84 15 2,200.00 102 0 40 0.7 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 34
4:45:48 PM 84 14.7 2,250.00 102 0 41 0.5 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 34
4:45:48 PM 84 14.7 2,250.00 102 0.3 41 0.4 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 34
4:45:48 PM 84 14.5 2,250.00 102 0.3 41 0.2 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 33
4:45:48 PM 84 14.4 2,300.00 102 0.6 41 0.3 38 10.4 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 33
4:45:49 PM 84 14.4 2,300.00 102 0.6 41 0.5 38 10.4 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 32
4:45:49 PM 84 14.4 2,300.00 102 1 42 0.4 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 32
4:45:49 PM 84 14.4 2,300.00 102 1 42 0.7 38 11.2 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 31
4:45:49 PM 84 14.4 2,350.00 102 1.3 43 0.6 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 30
4:45:49 PM 84 14.5 2,350.00 102 1.3 43 0.5 38 10.8 0 0 11 5 5.1 0 30
4:45:49 PM 84 14.5 2,350.00 102 1.3 43 0.3 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.5 2,400.00 102 1.3 44 0.3 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.5 2,400.00 102 1.3 44 0.9 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.6 2,400.00 102 1.6 44 0.7 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.6 2,450.00 102 1.6 44 1 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.6 2,450.00 102 1.9 44 0.9 38 11.2 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 29
4:45:49 PM 84 14.6 2,450.00 102 1.9 45 0.7 38 12 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.5 2,500.00 102 2.2 45 1.2 38 12 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.5 2,500.00 102 2.2 46 1 38 12 0 0 12 6 5.4 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.5 2,550.00 102 2.6 46 0.8 38 12.4 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,550.00 102 2.6 46 0.7 38 12.4 0 0 12 6 5.1 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,550.00 102 2.9 47 0.6 38 12.4 0 0 12 6 5.4 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,550.00 102 2.9 47 1.3 38 12.4 0 0 12 6 5.4 0 28
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,600.00 102 2.9 47 1.2 38 12.4 0 0 13 6 5.4 0 27
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,600.00 102 2.9 48 1 38 12.4 0 0 13 6 5.4 0 27
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,650.00 102 2.9 48 0.9 38 13.2 0 0 13 6 5.4 0 26
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,650.00 102 3.2 48 0.7 37 13.2 0 0 13 6 5.4 0 26
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,650.00 102 3.2 48 0.5 37 13.2 0 98.4 13 6 5.4 0 26
4:45:50 PM 84 14.6 2,700.00 102 3.5 49 0.8 37 13.2 0 98 13 6 5.4 0 25
4:45:51 PM 85 14.6 2,700.00 102 3.5 49 0.6 37 13.6 0 97.6 13 6 5.8 0 25
4:45:51 PM 84 14.6 2,700.00 102 3.8 49 0.5 37 13.6 0 97.6 13 6 5.8 0 24
4:45:51 PM 85 14.6 2,750.00 102 4.2 50 0.3 37 14.4 0 97.2 13 6 5.8 0 24
4:45:51 PM 85 14.6 2,750.00 102 4.2 50 0.7 37 14.4 0 97.2 13 6 5.8 0 23
4:45:51 PM 85 14.5 2,750.00 102 4.5 51 0.5 37 14.4 0 97.2 13 6 5.8 0 23
4:45:51 PM 85 14.4 2,800.00 102 4.5 51 0.9 37 14.8 0 96.8 14 7 6.1 0 21
4:45:51 PM 85 14.4 2,800.00 102 4.5 51 1.1 37 14.8 0 96.8 14 7 6.1 0 21
4:45:51 PM 85 14.4 2,850.00 102 4.8 52 1 37 15.6 0 96.8 14 7 6.1 0 21
4:45:51 PM 85 14.4 2,850.00 102 4.8 52 1.2 37 16 0 96.8 14 7 6.4 0 21
4:45:51 PM 85 14.5 2,900.00 102 5.1 52 1 37 16.4 0 96 14 7 6.4 0 21
4:45:51 PM 85 14.4 2,900.00 102 5.4 52 0.8 37 16.4 0 95.6 14 7 6.4 0 20
4:45:51 PM 85 14.2 2,900.00 102 5.4 53 0.7 37 16.8 0 95.6 14 7 6.4 0 20
4:45:51 PM 85 14.1 2,950.00 102 5.8 53 0.5 36 17.6 0 95.2 14 7 6.7 0 20
4:45:52 PM 85 14.1 2,950.00 102 5.8 54 0.4 36 18 0 95.2 15 7 6.7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 14 3,000.00 102 6.1 54 1.3 36 18.4 0 94.8 15 7 6.7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 13.9 3,000.00 102 6.1 54 1.1 36 18.8 0 94.4 15 7 6.7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 13.9 3,000.00 102 6.7 55 1 36 18.8 0 94 15 7 7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 13.9 3,050.00 102 7 56 0.8 36 19.2 0 93.2 15 7 7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 13.7 3,100.00 102 7.4 56 1 36 20 0 93.2 15 7 7 0 19
4:45:52 PM 85 13.6 3,100.00 102 7.7 56 1.1 36 20.4 0 93.2 16 7 7.4 0 18
4:45:52 PM 85 13.7 3,150.00 102 8 57 0.9 36 20.8 0 92.4 16 7 7.4 0 18
4:45:52 PM 85 13.7 3,150.00 102 8.3 57 1.3 36 21.6 0 91.6 16 7 7.7 0 18
4:45:52 PM 85 13.6 3,200.00 102 8.6 58 1.4 36 22 0 91.2 16 8 7.7 0 18
4:45:52 PM 85 13.6 3,200.00 102 9 58 1.2 36 22.8 0 90.8 16 8 8 0 17
4:45:52 PM 85 13.5 3,250.00 102 9 59 1.4 36 22.8 0 90.8 17 8 8 0 17
4:45:53 PM 85 13.4 3,250.00 102 9.9 59 1.3 36 24.4 0 89.6 17 8 8.3 0 17
4:45:53 PM 85 13.4 3,300.00 102 10.2 60 1.6 36 24.4 0 88.8 17 8 8.3 0 17
4:45:53 PM 85 13.1 3,350.00 102 10.2 60 1.5 36 25.2 0 89.2 17 8 8.6 0 17
4:45:53 PM 85 13 3,350.00 102 10.9 61 1.3 36 24.8 0 88.4 18 8 8.6 0 16
4:45:53 PM 85 13 3,400.00 102 11.5 61 1.2 36 26.4 0 87.6 18 9 8.6 0 16
4:45:53 PM 85 13.1 3,400.00 102 11.8 62 1 36 26.4 0 86.4 18 9 8.6 0 16
4:45:53 PM 85 13.4 3,450.00 102 12.5 62 1.8 36 28 0 85.6 19 9 9 0 15
4:45:53 PM 85 13.5 3,450.00 102 13.1 63 1.6 36 28.8 0 84.4 19 9 9.3 0 15
4:45:53 PM 85 13.5 3,500.00 102 13.4 64 1.5 36 30 0 84 20 9 9.6 0 15
4:45:53 PM 85 13.4 3,550.00 102 14.4 64 1.3 36 32 0 82.4 20 9 10.2 0 15
4:45:53 PM 85 13.1 3,550.00 102 14.7 65 1.3 36 32.8 0 82 20 9 10.6 0 15
4:45:53 PM 85 12.6 3,600.00 102 15.4 66 1.2 36 34.8 0 80.8 21 10 10.9 0 14
4:45:54 PM 85 12.2 3,650.00 102 15.7 66 1.7 36 36.4 0 80.4 21 10 11.2 0 14
4:45:54 PM 85 11.7 3,650.00 102 16.3 66 1.5 36 37.2 0 79.2 21 10 11.5 0 14
4:45:54 PM 85 11.5 3,700.00 102 16.6 67 1.7 36 38 0 78.8 22 10 11.8 0 13
4:45:54 PM 85 11.2 3,750.00 102 17 67 1.5 36 39.6 0 78 22 10 11.8 0 13
4:45:54 PM 86 11.1 3,750.00 102 17.3 68 1.4 36 41.6 0 77.2 22 11 12.5 0 13
4:45:54 PM 85 11.1 3,800.00 102 17.9 69 1.3 36 41.2 0 76.4 22 11 12.5 0 13
4:45:54 PM 86 11 3,850.00 102 18.2 69 1.4 36 44 0 76 23 11 13.1 0 12
4:45:54 PM 86 11 3,850.00 102 18.9 70 1.7 36 43.6 0 74.8 23 11 13.1 0 12
4:45:54 PM 86 11 3,900.00 102 19.2 71 1.7 36 44.8 0 74.4 23 11 13.4 0 12
4:45:54 PM 85 11 3,950.00 102 19.2 72 1.5 36 45.6 0 74.4 23 11 13.4 0 12
4:45:54 PM 85 10.9 4,000.00 102 19.2 73 1.9 36 47.6 0 74 23 12 13.4 0 12
4:45:54 PM 85 10.9 4,000.00 102 19.5 73 1.7 36 48 0 73.6 23 12 13.4 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.9 4,050.00 102 19.5 74 2.2 36 49.6 0 73.6 23 12 13.8 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.9 4,100.00 102 19.5 74 2.1 36 50.8 0 73.2 24 12 14.1 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,150.00 102 19.8 75 2.1 36 50.4 0 73.2 24 12 14.1 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,200.00 102 19.8 76 2 36 52.4 0 73.2 23 13 14.1 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,200.00 102 19.8 77 1.9 36 52 0 73.2 24 13 14.1 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,250.00 102 19.2 77 1.8 36 51.6 0 73.6 23 13 13.8 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,300.00 102 19.5 78 2.5 36 54 0 73.6 23 13 14.1 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.6 4,300.00 102 19.5 79 2.3 36 53.6 0 73.2 24 13 14.4 0 12
4:45:55 PM 85 10.6 4,350.00 102 19.5 79 2.1 36 55.2 0 73.6 24 14 14.7 0 11
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,400.00 102 19.5 80 2.1 36 54.8 0 73.6 24 14 14.4 0 11
4:45:55 PM 85 10.6 4,450.00 102 19.5 81 2.1 36 56.4 0 73.6 23 14 14.4 0 11
4:45:55 PM 85 10.7 4,500.00 102 19.5 82 2.3 36 57.2 0 73.6 24 14 14.4 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.6 4,550.00 102 19.5 82 2.2 36 58 0 73.2 23 14 14.4 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.7 4,550.00 102 19.2 83 2 36 57.6 0 74 23 14 14.4 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.7 4,600.00 102 19.2 83 1.9 36 58.4 0 74.4 23 15 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.9 4,650.00 102 19.2 84 2.7 36 58.4 0 74.4 23 15 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.9 4,700.00 102 19.2 85 2.5 36 58.4 0 73.6 23 15 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.9 4,700.00 102 19.2 85 2.4 36 58.4 0 74.4 23 15 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 84 10.9 4,750.00 102 19.2 86 2.2 36 58.8 0 74.4 23 15 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.9 4,750.00 102 19.2 87 2.1 36 59.6 0 74.4 23 16 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 85 10.9 4,800.00 102 19.2 87 2.7 36 58.4 0.1 74.4 23 16 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 84 10.9 4,850.00 102 19.2 88 2.5 36 61.6 0 74.4 23 16 14.1 0 11
4:45:56 PM 84 11 4,900.00 102 19.2 88 2.4 36 60.8 0 74.4 23 16 14.4 0 11
4:45:56 PM 84 10.9 4,950.00 102 19.2 89 2.2 36 61.2 0 74.4 23 16 14.4 0 11
4:45:56 PM 84 10.7 4,950.00 102 19.2 90 2.1 36 62.4 0 74.4 23 16 14.4 0 11
4:45:57 PM 84 10.6 5,000.00 102 19.2 90 1.9 36 64 0 74.4 23 17 14.4 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.6 5,050.00 102 19.2 91 1.8 36 63.6 0 74.4 23 17 14.1 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.6 5,050.00 102 19.2 92 2.7 36 63.2 0 74.4 23 17 14.4 0 12
4:45:57 PM 83 10.6 5,100.00 102 19.2 93 2.5 36 64.4 0 74.8 23 17 14.4 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.7 5,100.00 102 18.9 93 2.4 36 62.8 0 74.8 23 17 14.1 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.7 5,150.00 102 19.2 94 2.8 36 63.2 0 74.4 23 18 14.1 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.7 5,200.00 102 18.9 95 2.7 36 62.4 0 74.8 23 18 13.8 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.7 5,250.00 102 18.9 95 2.5 36 62.8 0 75.2 23 18 13.8 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 10.7 5,250.00 102 18.9 96 2.4 36 62.8 0 74.8 23 18 13.8 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 11 5,350.00 102 18.9 96 2.2 36 63.2 0 74.8 23 18 13.4 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 11 5,300.00 102 19.2 97 2.1 36 66.4 0 74.4 23 18 14.1 0 12
4:45:57 PM 84 11 5,350.00 102 19.2 97 2 36 66 0 74.4 23 19 14.1 0 12
4:45:58 PM 84 11.1 5,400.00 102 18.2 98 2 36 62.8 0 75.2 23 19 13.4 0 12
4:45:58 PM 83 11.1 5,450.00 102 18.9 99 1.9 36 67.2 0 74.8 23 19 13.4 0 12
4:45:58 PM 83 11.1 5,500.00 102 18.2 99 2 36 63.6 0 75.6 23 19 13.4 0 12

update?

I'm at a little over 1700 miles with no oil consumption. The PCV and breather hoses are routed the factor way. I'm not running a catch can or the air/oil seperator yet. I plan on buy the Element Tuning Competion Catch can, once they find someone to manufacture it. It is a cross between a catch can and air/oil seperator. I checked the spark plug and they all are normal. I decided that I'm going to switch from LFR7AIX 2309 IX iridium One step colder plugs to PLFR6A-11 7654 Double Platinum Recommended by Phil (Element Tuning). I have noticed some misfire with the IX iridium One step colder plugs. If the Double Platinum plugs are good enough for all of the 500whp+ cars the Phil has tuned, including the Element Tuning Time Attack WRX, they should work great on my car. I'm still at just under 20psi but I've done some fine tuning to the fuel and timing maps. I don't plan on running any more boost until I swap the plugs. The IWG seems to loose about 1-1.5 psi from 4000rpm to 7000 rpm. I plan on running 23psi peak and holding 22 to redline. That is about 4psi more than I'm currently running and the FP Red tends to gain a lot in that range.

Just read through this entire thread. Congrats on the project; I'm undertaking mine this weekend. Hopefully I get through it successfully. Hope your final tune ends up well! Good luck.

What did you do with the extra breather on the 2.5l block?

Mike

What did you do with the extra breather on the 2.5l block?

Mike
I have a EJ257 longblock and all of the breather hoses and the pcv hoses are routed the factor way, for now.

Just read through this entire thread. Congrats on the project; I'm undertaking mine this weekend. Hopefully I get through it successfully. Hope your final tune ends up well! Good luck.
Thanks. I hope the tune goes well also. It won't be the final tune. Just the the final pumpgas tune. I plan on meth/water injection and a c-16 tune but that's not going to happen for awhile.

I went to the track, eventhough I'm nowhere near tuned. First run 22.5 psi peak and 20.5psi at redline second run 19.5psi peak and 18 at redline. I haven't done any tuning above 20.5 psi but I checked the AFR at 22.5 psi and it was 10.2-10.6 with 14 deg advance at redline. I expected to trap around 110 mph and run mid 12's if I got a good 60'. It's been close to 2 years since I've drag raced and I have a completly new set up so I figured my 60' would be 2.0-2.2. During both runs the tranny did not want to go into gear and had to be forced. This was the first time I've had any problems with my tranny. After both runs I could barely get it into gear. On the way home I didn't have any problems with the tranny but thats just my luck. If I could have had one good run, I think I would have been rigth where I expected to be. I knew that I had a lot of tuning to do when I went to the track and the traps speed indicates that as well. On the second run it took a second or more for me to get it into 4th gear and I could feel the car slowing down. Right after the 1/8th I got passed by an SRT-4 like I was standing still. The SRT-4 ran 13.098 @114mph. He is running a Mopar stage 3 on pump gas and he traps 119mph on race gas. With an 18G and TMIC I ran a best of 12.3@109mph and normally ran 12.4-12.5 at 110-111mph. So my times and traps are kind of depressing but I know its because of my lack of tuning.
1st run
60' 2.013
1/8 9.078 @83mph
1/4 13.705 @108mph
missed 1-2 twice

2nd run
60' 1.874
1/8 8.530 @80mph
1/4 13.385 @104
missed 3-4 shift

I went to the track, eventhough I'm nowhere near tuned. First run 22.5 psi peak and 20.5psi at redline second run 19.5psi peak and 18 at redline. I haven't done any tuning above 20.5 psi but I checked the AFR at 22.5 psi and it was 10.2-10.6 with 14 deg advance at redline. I expected to trap around 110 mph and run mid 12's if I got a good 60'. It's been close to 2 years since I've drag raced and I have a completly new set up so I figured my 60' would be 2.0-2.2. During both runs the tranny did not want to go into gear and had to be forced. This was the first time I've had any problems with my tranny. After both runs I could barely get it into gear. On the way home I didn't have any problems with the tranny but thats just my luck. If I could have had one good run, I think I would have been rigth where I expected to be. I knew that I had a lot of tuning to do when I went to the track and the traps speed indicates that as well. On the second run it took a second or more for me to get it into 4th gear and I could feel the car slowing down. Right after the 1/8th I got passed by an SRT-4 like I was standing still. The SRT-4 ran 13.098 @114mph. He is running a Mopar stage 3 on pump gas and he traps 119mph on race gas. With an 18G and TMIC I ran a best of 12.3@109mph and normally ran 12.4-12.5 at 110-111mph. So my times and traps are kind of depressing but I know its because of my lack of tuning.
1st run
60' 2.013
1/8 9.078 @83mph
1/4 13.705 @108mph
missed 1-2 twice

2nd run
60' 1.874
1/8 8.530 @80mph
1/4 13.385 @104
missed 3-4 shift

sounds like you need an sti 6-speed...

After getting my tune nailed, switching plugs, double checking the gap, and much more trouble shooting I still had a huge lack in performance. Well, I finally found the problem and I'm correcting it. I seems the my timing belt slipped a few teeth on the crank sprocket causing all four cams to be advanced about 10 deg. and while driving the avcs advances the intake cams even more. The good news is that I don't have any internal damage. All I need to do is re-install the timing. I plan on running the motor and double checking the timing belt to make sure everything is okay.

quick update

Almost 2 years later and no problems with the motor. It's running strong with 22-24 psi on pump gas. Only problem I have is a slipping clutch so that means no drag launches. I haven't made any updates on this project in a long time. The inital problems I was haveing which included misfiring (I thought) and hard to shift gears were fixed shortly after the install. After doing several logs I found out that my knock sensor did not like the pre-tuned maps the Hydra was using. I was getting alot of reported knock that initialy I thought was misfire. I made my own knock threshold maps and the car came alive. I then needed to fix the shifting problem. When I took it to the track it was so hard to shift that sometimes I could not get it into gear. It ended up being a very simple fix. Some how the spring for the clutch fork was missing. I put a new one on and it has been shifting fine.