I am running a aftermarket uppipe, a catted downpipe, and a 3" exhaust from there back. I also have a cold air intake and a txs bov-h. i recently got a utec and am gonna run the stage 2 base map. will i have anything to worry about :rolleyes: ???



Eric
813-323-0666

It will run but not very well, especially with that cold air intake. Your gonna be really rich and have bad gas mileage. Try to get it tuned asap. The tune alone will net you around 20 extra whp.

what about the stock setting?

Help......!!!!

??????

The stock setting will run a stock map, so it would be like running without the UTEC. If you run the Stage 2 map until you get a chance to get a tune you should be fine.

Now the BOV-H will probally give you some problems. You should get a recirculating BOV. With a stage 2 setup that BOV s going to lose you more power then anything else. The reason is your ECU expects the air venting out the BOV to be plumbed back into the system not released into the air. So your ECU will think its missing air and run rich and stuff. Search there are a ton of BOV posts to explain this. Just use the stock BOV or get a recirculating valve, otherwise run that one until you get sick of losing power then go back to stock or something better.

i am gonna run the stage one set up. i think i am gonna be fine.

i went back to a sri and i am gonna run the stage 2. i will keep u posted

ok ? i tried to upload a base stg2 map off txs site and the interface says," bad sum check, corupt map" ***????

nevermind i am trading for a AP

probably a good idea.

do u really think so? i mean all my friends at subaru say this is a great system

all of the heavily used ems solutions out there are capable of tuning to ~400 whp.

the question is, which one is best for YOU.

if you're having a lot of difficulty with the utec now, maybe a different solution is better for you.

fwiw i've been on a utec for over 2 years. it does what i need it to. ;)

I finally loaded the stg 2 map. car seems to run strong but then at higher rps seems to taper off..... any answers? i was thinking a boost issue with that stupied abc.

So this is UTEC or AP? Did you RTFM? yeah you can take off that stupid ABC as it only allows you to run more boost....who wants that...

I've been running Utec with Short ram, up&down pipe, 3" exhaust for 2 years, just recently upgraded to TXS TIMC for stage 3, the car runs great, acts stock under normal every day use and seems to pull harder then my friends with AP in stage 2 vs his up&down pipe, 3" TBE set up. I'm not a big fan of the reflash any way, so of course my opinion would favor what has worked so well for me for 2 years.

finally loaded the stg 2 map. car seems to run strong but then at higher rps seems to taper off..... any answers? i was thinking a boost issue with that stupied abc.

get it tuned...the base maps are fairly conservative. Make sure you take it to someone who knows subarus and utecs...Post up in your local section to find out about local tuners...

nevermind i am trading for a AP

Why? because you dont know how to use the UTEC?

That bad check sum just means the map was saved in notepad.

Why go to a less powerful and complete and MUCH more limited EM??
You will need to lose the intake altogether with that AP.

I finally loaded the stg 2 map. car seems to run strong but then at higher rps seems to taper off..... any answers? i was thinking a boost issue with that stupied abc.

STock turbos dont hold boost very well on the top end. Try pushing the numbers up a bit higher where its tapering off. You may need to tune the fuel table in that area as well.

Your stock set up reduces boost at upper RPM's, it's merely reduced in the UTEC set up as to how much it cuts back.

Like mentioned before, the stock turbo is very small, very efficient and isn't made to produce major horsepower, but better drivability.

With and upgraded turbo, VF22, VF29, VF34, and a tuned by a TXS certified vendor on a dyno, you will be glad you stuck it out with UTEC. There is a MY02 with Pinks, and VF24, only things I don't have, tuned, putting 350 to the wheels on race gas... he has the dyno chart to prove it. Typically this set up is good for 300-320 at the wheel on 93 I think. I can't wait to get mine tuned. :banana:

ok, ok where do i start the adjustment for fuel at. can anyone email me a decent map for intake, bov, up and down and 3" to the back?? thanks for everyones help. i will try and stick it out. oh the email is EAkrish@gmail.com.

Using someone else's map is not a good idea. Altitude, gas, condition of car, constant parameters, abc, temperature, all effect the tune. ESPECIALLY since you are using an intake and bov.

Don't adjust the fuelling unless you have access to a wideband o2 and know what you are doing. Same goes for timing, unless you have accurate EGT and datalog with a laptop.

If you DO decide to stick with the UTEC read the UTEC manual lots of times, and also check out Mick's tuning guide, also www.wrxhackers.com for more information.

http://www.pdxtuning.com/utec_tune_guide/UTEC_Quick_Guide_12_02_2004.pdf

The stage 2 basemap is OK to get started from, but running it all the time is not a good idea, it's VERY rich and wont make much more power for you than stock. It's also designed for 93 octane, you need to remove some timing if you are using 91 for example.

You need to datalog to see what the UTEC is doing, a good idea with the basemap to see if all is OK before you start spanking the car to see if it's faster with the UTEC ;) Then work in small steps from there tuning the boost map and abc if needed to reach the specified psi targets for your stage. Then if you wanna tweak the fuel maps you need a wideband o2, tweaking the timing means keeping an eye on knock and your EGT, again done with a laptop and logger option #1


In summary if you want to tune with the UTEC yourself you need lots of patience and understanding of what you are doing. It's not complicated as long as you take baby steps, have the proper tools at hand like wideband and laptop for logging and enjoy doing that kind of thing (and are somewhat technically inclined) and learning how the car reacts to adjustments.

If you dont want to do the above, then stick with AP (and Streettuner down the road if you wanna learn at a later date to tune) or ECUTEK.

Hope this helps.

thanks again, i think i might do that then, i think the AP is a good deal.

any other suggestions?

so i am running this on my tbe, up pipe intake.

map page (http://www.wrxhackers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3340)

As I said, running someone else's map is not good. Do you know what parameters or firmware version that map is for?

It uses open loop boost control for starters.

that map is a base stg 2 map, then i messed with the boost settings to be closed and also messed with the values. the result is impressive and hits target boost everytime with minimal spike.

never mind, its open

You can VERY easily tune the UTEC for your intake and any other mod you want.
IF you get the AP, you absolutely have to sell your intake.
WIth the AP you are stuck with what trey cobb thinks you should run, and that sucks.

You yourself said that it is running good with the stage 2 map, that alone proves lilsix doesnt know what the hell he is talking about.

ANY base map can run like garbage, the AP is no exception.

As for tuning, do some datalogging, look at what boost you are making, look at your a/f, and tune from there. This isnt brain surgury. :)

cool man, thanx

I'm the same deal as the OP

I just got a UTEC

I'm running a stage 2 map right now... at 16-16.5 pounds of boost...

no knock right now...

helix up and down pipes, blitz nur spec, txs short ram and obviously I rid of the txs rfl bov, and I'm running the stock valve.

I'm seriously looking for a 91 octane map, as my car has 70,000 miles on it... and I don't need this much performance day to day... I'm wondering if I can run stage 1 yet it states 16.5 boost just like stage 2.... I've made a thread in this forum about it. With no Help on Day 1.

To the OP maybe you would like to share tables and such and see if we're getting this right.

give me a call at the shop..904.645.5486..
I can help you with your utec troubles..
the shop is an authorized TurboXS Tuning facility..

give me a call at the shop..904.645.5486..
I can help you with your utec troubles..
the shop is an authorized TurboXS Tuning facility..

is this ben??

i will email you my boost map. if you use it, you will like it!!!

give me a call at the shop..904.645.5486..
I can help you with your utec troubles..
the shop is an authorized TurboXS Tuning facility..


Is this offer open to me as well?
I know you guys can be very busy.

r u in jax??

no... I'm just a newb... didn't see the location part there...

I thought some baseline maps were around...

like stage 2 91 octane

naw dude, the base maps from txs are for 93 oct. pm me and i can give you my map later tonight. you know how to load them?

pm sent

http://us.f373.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?box=Sent&MsgId=1837_40790_5495_654_6171_0_87_75354_31885486 52&bodyPart=7&filename=tunned2%5f0%5fable%5ffix%5f5%5f.txt&download=1&YY=67367&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b&Idx=0


Try this une out. Change the boost map, mine has a restrictor on the compresor side so the numbers are very low on the map to hit the target. let me see your map. you can send it to gabyclassmr2@hotmail.com or classgabriel@yahoo.com . I hoope this help. :disco:

Sorry the link doesn't work just pm me your e mail.

finnaly got a road tune. feels great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

good deal, let me see your new maps.

ok.............................................

bumpity lets see what we have here....

where...

no wheres, i will try and send the map later

I am working with mine to elimate knock...

Adding some fuel...

at 4750 5000 I get knock..

at 4750 it's 1.2 say at 40% load
but then at 5000 it goes to a negative -0.8

I need to do some reading on how this works...

on my fuel mod tables at 10-20% load I see pink colored cells

between 2000-2500 with values of -1 -1.2 -1

also at 5000 5250 -1.2 -1.8 -1.9


I've had an offer to get a tune for really cheap I need to do this.

I get some knock everyone once in a while at 4750 and 5000...

it's not low either 13 then a 17...

the majority of my knock is 0 1 2 90% of the time

Bundy, post logs and get a wideband. You really shouldn't be tuning your fuel without a wideband. In fact, I would say a wideband is required for anyone who wants to tune their own UTEC. EGT is a good idea as well, although you will use it mainly to make sure you're safe than fine tuning every cell in your map.

Fuel tuning is simple. Higher numbers add more fuel (richer, lower AFR number), lower numbers remove fuel (leaner, higher AFR number). There is nothing inherently special about positive or negative numbers. Depending on your setup, your entire map could have positive or negative numbers. I think many people with large injectors in fact have their entire map average something like -6. But a stock injector, stock turbo car is probably going to range from -2 to +2 or so. I find myseld changing by about 0.4 at a time for a small change in AFR. Don't get stuck on why some areas of your map are negative and some are positive. Both areas may in fact have the same AFR, but you won't know until you get a WB and log with it.

Go pick up a TXS Tuna WB or Innovate LM-1 WB + MPSLogger (free, search forum, great logger even if you don't have a wideband).

Hey Freon. I got the MPS logger, it read all the way to 8.1afr that's a thruth reading?

i have no idea how to read that logger?

CTR+D then #1

i want a ap

Why's that?

This thread really worries me.

No offense fellas, but you're newbloods to this whole thing and it's like watching kids at a shooting range with no supervision :(

13 and 17 count knock right after each other is VERY bad. you shouldn't really be messing with tuning unless you have a clue of what's going on. Get an EGT, get a Wideband. Then start playing with it. I used to play that game. In fact, I still do, and it's terrible. You may end up with a shot motor if you drive around with your cars doing that.

I'm working of a dyno-tuned map that was adjusted for differant injectors of similar size, I added fuel till knock went away (which was very little). You guys are in a differant boat. Messing with other peoples maps from differant parts of the country.

500ft of altitude may not seem like much now, but it could be a world of differance when you have a rod punch through the bottom of the block and leave the remnants in your oilpan.

Accessport is not the answer either. You just need to know what you're doing and play safe. Any form of tuning can lead to a dead motor.


Good luck fellas. Play safe, use your tuning "rubbers."

If you're in tampa, and you want, I might even give ya a hand.

peace

what do yo mean gimme a hand with the tuning? i would appreciate that

Tttttttttttttttttt

what do yo mean gimme a hand with the tuning? i would appreciate that

I'd take a few runs with ya and tell ya what I'd think you should do(sorry, didn't see your post b4)......

peace

EAkrish clean out your PM box it's full !