Please forgive me, I am noob when it comes to engine building.

I'm considering buying an EJ257 shortblock used. The seller recommends I get new bearings that he believes to cost around $200.
"The bearings would cost like $120 for the main bearings and $70 for rod bearings if I remember correctly."
He said I'd have to get the block "honed", in which he described the process as roughing the cylinder walls to seat new pistons.

1.) If I have somebody who can work on engines (can't reach them today) should I buy this block?

2.) Are all the details I'm hearing sound correct?

3.) Please describe in detail what "honing" is and what the average cost of this service is by an engine builder.

4.) please nobody respond with a corny "honed" joke. I already thought of that! I really do need help with this quickly, because I'm seriously considering buying this motor.

The seller did say I would have to buy new pistons, which is fine by me because I wanted to get new forged pistons anyways. PLEASE HELP!!!

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

I still say for your set up, stick w/ oem. How knows what you'll be getting w/ a used short block, unless you can inspect this block you may find that it needs alot more work than your expecting. You cant beat oem realibility, no piston slap, no crazy oil consumption, ect...

I still say for your set up, stick w/ oem. How knows what you'll be getting w/ a used short block, unless you can inspect this block you may find that it needs alot more work than your expecting. You cant beat oem realibility, no piston slap, no crazy oil consumption, ect...


Is it possible that even with all the work and new parts you can get, a shortblock will still have problems? It's cheap enough that after the pistons, the cost difference would be $600 less than OEM. $1200 less if you paid full price for OEM and got new pistons(forged).

Thanks for the reply. Some time to think about it is probably what I need, and you may have given me just enough doubt to pause.

Yeah dude just dont jump into anything, take your time and do a bunch of research before you buy, read some threads on built motors and see what you find. There will always be blocks around when your ready....

You should ALWAYS hone cylinder walls before installing new RINGS (the pistons have nothing to do with it). However if he knows the cylinder walls are scored and thinks that can be fixed by honing he is on crack. Depending on how deep the damage in the cylinder walls is, it might be fixed by boring out all the cylinders and installing custom oversized pistons. This weakens the walls, but increases displacement. Better low end power, not so much on the top end.

Boring and honing about $30/cylinder (or more, depending on who does it).
Honing presents an unworn surface to the piston rings such that the rings and cylinder's mate to one another circumferentially and make a good seal---seal in combustion, seal out oil.

Rod bearings are about $100 for coated aftermarket ones (Axis Racing sells Clevite 777 rod bearings). If you need new main bearings it will be $100-200 more. Most people use the Suby main bearings.

Used blocks can be fine. It's best to know the history of the block. Why are they selling it? What failed? If it was a head gasket, warping could have occurred-- that should probably be avoided. Ring land failure with minimal scuffing--no big deal (very common on the EJ257). Broken rod, valve failure, spun bearing-- hard to say. You want an intact (no cracks) block that is not warped (best seal to heads) with at most minor scuffing/gouging of the cylinder walls. Boring and honing to 0.5 mm overbore will take care of minor wall imperfections. "Decking" the block can take care of minor warpage, but you run the risk of increasing your compresion ratio to much or removing the "squish" area.

Have your pistons in hand before you bore and hone the block so that the machinist can get the bore clearance perfect (to manufacturers or builders specs).

Read a ton more. Google "engine blueprinting".

Also be aware that if you are going to use WRX heads with a 2.5L block you'll likely be raising your compression ratio. The WRX heads have a volume of 51 ml compared to 57 for the STI heads + the WRX have smaller ports.

ythe owner blew a piston by running water injection, then ran out of water. he claims there is no warping or scorching of the cylinder walls.

the seller actually bought the engine from the original owner and is now selling it because he got a deal on a fully built block, instead of starting from scratch. the price is so cheap I almost think its worth it.

So what were the symptoms "at the end"--smoky billows and it did not pass a compression test? If that's the case, and you see no or little scuffing of the cylinder walls, it sounds like a good block. If there was a gasket lapse you'd see signs of it on the block's deck. I'd just make sure that the "story" makes sense and there is no physical evidence that doesn't fit the story of the engine's demise. Keep in mind a new block with no crank/rods/bearings is $800.

I think I've met you before.

Garret/WorldOne might be willing to accept the block COD so they could inspect it before they accept it during a shipment.

So what were the symptoms "at the end"--smoky billows and it did not pass a compression test? If that's the case, and you see no or little scuffing of the cylinder walls, it sounds like a good block. If there was a gasket lapse you'd see signs of it on the block's deck. I'd just make sure that the "story" makes sense and there is no physical evidence that doesn't fit the story of the engine's demise. Keep in mind a new block with no crank/rods/bearings is $800.

I think I've met you before.

Garret/WorldOne might be willing to accept the block COD so they could inspect it before they accept it during a shipment.


Well, I definitely know who Garret is. We probably have met.

I'll make the offer for the block COD. Great idea.

This is a video of what Honing a block.

It's BEST that you do it when installing new rings so they have something to Set on.

http://www.antique-engine.com/shopwork/video/bessyhone.avi

Well, I decided to pass on the motor. Thanks for the help guys. I learned a little about motor building!