The goal in the end is to have a reliable and streetable 400hp Wagon. Tax return is coming here shortly and I'm ready to buy a short block. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or any input on the topic. I've looked at the Cobb stg 1 tuner series block as well as the Crawford S2 block.

Any other options I may have overlooked as far as a capable short block are welcome. Any JDM shortblocks capable?

Wheel HP or crank HP. There are alot of stock STi blocks hitting 400+ whp right now.

www.gruppe-s.com is another place to look.

on the ground.

Wheel HP or crank HP. There are alot of stock STi blocks hitting 400+ whp right now. If this can be done safely, I could just buy a damn a stock STi short block, run my WRX head, add 30r.. tune and get there safely?

on the ground.

If this can be done safely, I could just buy a damn a stock STi short block, run my WRX head, add 30r.. tune and get there safely?

I don't see why not. 2.5L shortblock + WRX heads + GT30R. Only thing I see in that setup that may hinder you could be the WRX cams. But still, STi shortblock + cams is cheaper than raceblock. And there are lots of STi owners making 400whp.

my only concern was piston # 4 ringland . i see alot of guys breaking them.get forged pistons now and never really have to worry. element made over 500 whp with that setup

Agreed, if you are buying a shortblock with no heads on it, take the opportunity to put forged pistons in.

Agreed, if you are buying a shortblock with no heads on it, take the opportunity to put forged pistons in.It kinda only makes sense to me tho to go ahead and stick better rods under there while you're doing it. I don't want to worry about the car everytime I get on it.

Agreed, if you are buying a shortblock with no heads on it, take the opportunity to put forged pistons in.


omfg hi2u anus :banana: :disco: :lol:

You may want to check these guys out - they are known for doing dune buggy stuff, but they use the 2.5L engine from the subie for their builds. I purchased the fuel rails and injectors from them when I turbod my 2000 RS and couldn't be happier with the product. When I toast my current stock block I'm probably going to do by engine build with their shortblock and then get some TWE heads to go along with it.

http://www.outbackmotors.com/subaru_short_blocks.htm

Hope the information helps, just another option.

Jim

what about axis

sti short block or a jdm sti block

or call andrewtechautomotive.com 240-683-1000 he will be able to set up your motor right if yu want to rebuild

If this can be done safely, I could just buy a damn a stock STi short block, run my WRX head, add 30r.. tune and get there safely?

yes but you will probably be close to choking your motor because of the heads. get a stage 1 cams from like DPR or something. you will still be able to hit 400whp safely though if you dont. you will just get better air flow and better lower TQ

Thanks all for the input.

I am also going to change to the sti short block in a couple of months. The proper way to do this would be sti short block, new rods and pistons ( just to play it safe ), and put a stage 1 cam in, then like a 20g or a 30r like what was stated. I already have a utec and basic stage 4 mods, and I also have 785cc injectors so those should work. Is that about it? Still can keep stock wrx ecu?

www.gruppe-s.com is another place to look.

+1. Having been around quite a few Gruppe-s blocks I would have to say they are the quietest out there. Even on startup, they don't sound like a diesel truck. At least make sure you get race coated bearings.

I'd suggest getting the piston skirts coated to quiet down the piston slap.

Why's everyone suggesting new rods? I'm not sure if anyone has ever blown an STi rod - and they're forged to begin with.

Kinda like replacing your Brembo calipers with StopTech.

Does anyone else give a shortblock this kind of TLC?

http://www.techworkseng.com/Packages/Short_Block_Engine_Packages.htm

Coaster

That's all pretty basic stuff when it comes to "blue printing" a motor. Axis, Crawford, Gruppe-S, etc, could and would do all of those things if asked.

Basic for 'blue printing' yes, but I'm not sure what the other companies include in their shorblock pricing, and I've seen a shortblock from one of the companies that you mention and the detailed crank work was not done. Perhaps the customer didn't pay for the extra work, but he paid for it after a bearing failed.

Company loyalty aside, I would advise discussing your project goals with your engine builder to ensure a safe, long lasting bottom end. Slapping together a rotating assembly without measuring/grinding the crank for the optimal bearing tolerances is risky if you're planning to exceed the stock boost by much or increase the redline. Forged pistons are a must, and a high-quench design will reduce detonation and improve off-boost power.

Coaster

Basic for 'blue printing' yes, but I'm not sure what the other companies include in their shorblock pricing, and I've seen a shortblock from one of the companies that you mention and the detailed crank work was not done. Perhaps the customer didn't pay for the extra work, but he paid for it after a bearing failed.

Company loyalty aside, I would advise discussing your project goals with your engine builder to ensure a safe, long lasting bottom end. Slapping together a rotating assembly without measuring/grinding the crank for the optimal bearing tolerances is risky if you're planning to exceed the stock boost by much or increase the redline. Forged pistons are a must, and a high-quench design will reduce detonation and improve off-boost power.

Coaster


I do not quite understand, you do not grind a crank ever for clearance (unless you are going undersized bearing). You polish a crank, and use the appropriate bearing sizes for proper clearance.

My bad, I did not mention that the crank grinding is done with the use of undersize bearings to achieve ideal bearing tolerances.

Are there different sizes of bearings available (other than standard undersizes) for Subaru cranks and rods? I don't think there are so undersize bearings and crank grinding works.

I don't mean to come off as an expert engine builder, I'm not. And I'm open to other ideas so share.

Coaster

fred, call me

I'm very happy with my Gruppe-S motor.

Quiet when it warms up....eats no oil and even after many many many high hp dyno pulls enough to max out a gt35r turbo..very little to no blowby in the catch can :)

My motor never quiets.. but it too eats NO oil. That's why I wish I went with coated piston skirts.

believe it or not my cp s2 block has made it through the proper 1000k breakin with zero oil consumption,and isnt too loud after warm up still some rattling but not much,it comes with the territory i suppose. good luck

k.c.

Basic for 'blue printing' yes, but I'm not sure what the other companies include in their shorblock pricing, and I've seen a shortblock from one of the companies that you mention and the detailed crank work was not done. Perhaps the customer didn't pay for the extra work, but he paid for it after a bearing failed.

Company loyalty aside, I would advise discussing your project goals with your engine builder to ensure a safe, long lasting bottom end. Slapping together a rotating assembly without measuring/grinding the crank for the optimal bearing tolerances is risky if you're planning to exceed the stock boost by much or increase the redline. Forged pistons are a must, and a high-quench design will reduce detonation and improve off-boost power.

Coaster

A few locals have spoken up and offered there assistance... I'll get there... thanks fellas.

Does anyone else give a shortblock this kind of TLC?

http://www.techworkseng.com/Packages/Short_Block_Engine_Packages.htm

Coaster


I'm not too impressed with Techworks. They took 3 months to do a simple head port job and they came back with metal shavings in the intake ports and they forgot to do the ceramic heating on the exhaust side that they were told to do.

I haven't installed them yet, but I wonder how long they would take to build a shortblock? Would it come with metal shavings in it like my heads did?

I like the design concepts Techworks puts forward but man, it is taking freaking forever to just get them to call me back with pricing on some parts and labour. Tom seems like a nice and knowledgable guy but I want my car back on the road before the snow melts.

Coaster, can you comment on their typical delivery times?

Because of staffing issues that led to a couple of problems (including drdeuce's) Tom has downsized, making TechWorks a smaller shop. Their products and services are in demand so delivery times can be long.

FYI, I'm a former owner and was the sales/marketing guy for TechWorks. I'm still a friend of Tom's.

Coaster
a.k.a. Keith

Because of staffing issues that led to a couple of problems (including drdeuce's) Tom has downsized, making TechWorks a smaller shop. Their products and services are in demand so delivery times can be long.

FYI, I'm a former owner and was the sales/marketing guy for TechWorks. I'm still a friend of Tom's.

Coaster
a.k.a. Keith

Yeah, I know. Tom was straight up with me on delivery times the other day. Made no false promises. Had I more time, I would like to have had them involved more. And again, Tom seems like a hell of a smart guy. No BS.

i just bought an axis stage 3 ej25 motor fully built, direct from axis for $2700 shipped to canada. good deals are out there you just have to be patient!!

Check out ARFabrication.com they have packages for any budget.