I've searched and haven't come up with much on this subject.

1. Gears are brittle, plastic, torqued to 72ft-lbs, and expensive
2. Special Subaru ST tools to remove these are not sold by dealers and sell for $180 and $120 respectively by Kent Tool Co.
3. Many people here have built engines and removed them.
4. STI AVCS cams don't have the uber convienent wrench flat on the cam shaft itself like the non-AVCS cams.
5. Subaru engineers are morons for not designing a simple wrench flat in the cam shafts or at least a better way to remove these. I shouldn't have to buy $300 worth of wrenches to take off $600 worth of parts. :mad:

What do we do?

Best idea I have is impact wrench on the nut, while securing the gear with a strap wrench.

The problem with this is clearence between gears and damage to teeth. I don't think I can destroy the timing belt to wrap around a gear (to protect it) AND still get a strap wrench on it. Has anybody made a "strap wrench" out of a timing belt itself to do this?

Well there is a flat spot on the cams, i've them many times to remove/install cam gears.

Wrap your old timing belt around the crank and one side of the cam gears. Use a vice grip to clamp the belts teeth together at the crank....You now have an inexpensive way to remove your cam gears with out damaging the gears or the cams ;)

Quirt Crawford
www.crawfordperformance.com

Well there is a flat spot on the cams, i've them many times to remove/install cam gears.

WRX cams =/ AVCS cams


Anyways,
Thanks Quirt

Is an impact wrench still a "good" idea?

Is an impact wrench still a "good" idea?
It's probably going to have to be a pretty serious impact gun. I think I read someone broke a 3/4" socket. I had great success with like... an 8 foot breaker bar and my heaviest friend hanging on it. Times like that I wish I had the Subaru removal tool.. but Quirt's idea is news to me and I wanna try it next time.

The last set of wrx cams had flats on the cams also.....

4. STI AVCS cams don't have the uber convienent wrench flat on the cam shaft itself like the non-AVCS cams.


WRX cams =/ AVCS cams





The last set of wrx cams had flats on the cams also.....

:confused: :confused:
When did we ever start talking about WRX cam gears in this thread?

it takes some serious power to remove gears from the cams...they could not be moved from mine. A place where i had my cams taken off ordered a tool to do it, broke the tool, broke my gear and finally got it off and put a new gear in it. they even tried Infamous' way with a bar and people on it...no luck

1000 ft/lb impact gun, 5 minutes and call it a night :lol:

1000 ft/lb impact gun, 5 minutes and call it a night :lol:

900ft/lb gun didn't work for me, i had a 6ft pole with about a 250lb friend of mine hanging on it to have them come free.... it was a mess

900ft/lb gun didn't work for me, i had a 6ft pole with about a 250lb friend of mine hanging on it to have them come free.... it was a mess

worked or me without any problems.

Got them off and here is by far the best and most descript way to do it.

Leave all the timing belt guides on the engine.
Dont' remove the timing belt.
Make sure you have the timing belt/engine in proper location as to not damage valves.
Put a breaker bar on the crank bolt to hold the crank/belt cams in place
Use another breaker bar on a HARDENED allen socket (broke a craftsmen in about .2s)

The gear bolts break super easy this way, and you don't ruin your timing belt. We had no problem with it jumping teeth or anything.

Most impact guns can't even touch these bolts, as these bolts just laughed at ours.

I tried it that way and it keep jumping teeth. I think I'll try it the way Quirt mentioned, even though I have the tools ordered.

I've never removed cam gears from a Suby, but I have taken them off of other motors. I remove one cam cap at a time and slip some folded paper under the cap and re-torque the cam cap. This way the cam is held in place and then you can un-bolt the cam sprocket with an impact gun.

If you keep the belt guides on the engine, it should keep the belt on the gears. You want a slow, gradual force on the breaker to prevent teeth jumping. We have a pretty serious timing belt on our cars that should hold everything in place.

Once we figured this out, it took us about 1min to break all 4

I used a 1 1/8 wrench to hold the Cam as tight as i can and my buddy used a breaker bar with the Allen socket and we got them off pretty easy. This was on a JDM ver.8 motor too.

the thing about using the crank bolt to keep the cams from spinning, is that it tightens the **** out of the crank bolt. then you have even more trouble if you need to remove that. if you need to take a cam gear off, just buy a new car. hahaha. what make them so tight, 6000rpm clutch dumps...? haha

You can't use the 1 1/8 wrench on an STI. I did it this way. I put two of the flywheel bolts in and used a wrench between them that was long enough to touch the engine stand mounts. That way the crank bolt doesn't tighten and you can use both hands to loosen the cam gear bolts. It also makes it a one person job instead of 2+ like others have needed. I also found out that the Snap-on 10mm 1/2" drive hex socket was very strong and would not break like craftsman and several other that I broke. It lists of $20 but its worth it because you break several $10 sockets and never get one bolt loose.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01254.jpg

Using a timing belt works about half the time. I ended up buying the cam tools from a source I found .. they were about half the price as the SPT tools and I hear they are better quality (havent seen the SPT tools in person)

not to sound like a newb or anything, but i've never seen avcs heads with the cover off. is that stuff on intake cam the avcs? does it work off an actualy cam degree change instead of a lobe profile change like vtec does?

Hi 02Toyowrx,

Can you post the source/part number for these tools?

TIA

Ray

Hi 02Toyowrx,

Can you post the source/part number for these tools?

TIA

RayI too would like to know the source/part number. Can you please PM this information.

Rick

After removing and installing the cam gears using the old timing belt, vise grips, and a good 10mm hex socket I'm glad I didn't waste any money on the tools. However, if you want them you can get them from http://subaru.spx.com/index.asp WRX CAMSHAFT SPROCKET WRENCH ST 499207100 and ST 499207400, Sti CAMSHAFT SPROCKET WRENCH ST 499207400 and ST 499977500. Most of the engine builders don't use the tools. I was set on using them until I talked to a few professional engine builders. I have heard they are around $200 and to me that is a waste since there are so many ways to remove the cam gears without them.

i am currently in the same dillemma my gears dont want to come off. obviously i am going to try some of the ideas mentioned for the removal in here. my question is whos making the aftermarket replacements for the 05 sti and how i can get my hands on them. i have looked almost everywhere and i cant seem to find the actual gears, its always shafts, no gears.

If anyone does make aftermarket gears, that AVCS intake gear is gonna cost an absolute fortune. And the exhaust gear is already plastic so I doubt anyone makes a lighter one. There may be a stronger one but that's not a part I heard of breaking. With a good kevlar belt you probably won't jump timing and if you introduced more metal gears you'd probably lose belt life. If you are going for adjustability, that's just an added confusion to an existing timing mess.

I broke a few tools before making my own. I used a 10mm 1/2 inch drive socket, and cut an allen wrench, so that the stub piece fit in the socket, and about 10mm stuck out. this fit in the cam bolt. I bent a 3foot long Snap-on breaker bar, and ground a 1-1/8 inch wrench to fit the cam perfectly. Lots of work, and swearing, but it worked. Given, this is for a MY02 EJ20, and not an STi motor, but my 1000ft/lb impact could not take these bolts out.

I just bought a strap wrench and had an impact gun and all of them came off pretty easy.

well my friends shop and i got the gears off but broke them in the process. i had to order all new oem gears since i could not locate any aftermarket pieces. does anyone know how long the oem gears will last on completely re-worked heads? ie ported, polished with 3angle valve job on both intake and exhaust ports?

I get to try this fiasco again from my last time tonight on JDM avcs heads... T minus 1 hour till I break some more tools. I will try the old timing belt and vice grips trick. I hope I don't bring down the whole engine stand when I'm hanging from the breaker bar.

yea i just got a complete sti engine and its time for tear down..... so i will let everyone know what happens with this one......

Eric

ps- if anyone wants sti heads pm me lol

Easy as pie this time thatnks to Subaru Junkie... 4 cam gears... 4 minutes.

Easy as pie this time thatnks to Subaru Junkie... 4 cam gears... 4 minutes.

i hope mine is the same.....

yeah i am actually in this same rut.... I pulled the motor out of my car cuz number 2 cyl had 60% leakage... and it was leaking out the turbo so i figure its the exhaust valves... Well i got the motor out just fine.. but those dang sprockets are giving me hell i broke some tools already.. and I am going to try to use a impact and zap those suckers off.

Has anyone tryed to heat those bolts up with some tourch, then break them loose? Whats the best way to remove them without breaking the sprockets? I also have my timing belt on still so could i just use a impact and hope for the best??
I`ll be going at it all day saturday so any help you guys can give before would be great!!!

Thanks again
Sean

i'm having a pretty tough time here. I am going to try to come up with a write up on how to do this when im done, cause this is just a PITA

Eric

I've heated the bolts up... but only on the metal cam gears because the plastic ones will break. Get a GOOD 10mm hex socket... like a snap-on. Either that or get a normal craftsman one but have a welder WELD the hex key into the socket as the 2 will separate from stubborn cam gears. It's happened to all my craftsman ones.

I just got 3 of 4 wrx cam gears in 10 minutes last night... not too bad.

yeah this is a PITA Ordeal... I`ll have my Craftsman hex socket welded, and I`ll have the Snap-on for back-up.. So i`ll try a lil flame on the metal Intake cam gears.. then should I just use a Impact gun and hope for the best...

If i use a Impact, I`ll have to use a 1/2inch to 3/8 reducer so i can use my 10mm hex socket Will that be alright? or will i probley break some more tools :p

I used the 1/2>3/8 adapter for all this.

I used the 1/2>3/8 adapter for all this.


Thank you for all the INFO!! Great thread haha, i`ll show pics when i am done this weekend :)

Bah... last ****ing cam gear was being a bitch and I walked the inside of the bolt head. Now I'm going to have to have a friend weld the hex head in there and just buy a new bolt. Whatever... at least that's easier.

PS quality tools help.

You can't use the 1 1/8 wrench on an STI. I did it this way. I put two of the flywheel bolts in and used a wrench between them that was long enough to touch the engine stand mounts. That way the crank bolt doesn't tighten and you can use both hands to loosen the cam gear bolts. It also makes it a one person job instead of 2+ like others have needed. I also found out that the Snap-on 10mm 1/2" drive hex socket was very strong and would not break like craftsman and several other that I broke. It lists of $20 but its worth it because you break several $10 sockets and never get one bolt loose.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01254.jpg


nice job.. its similar to what quirt had said, which i think is brilliant! ive always used the special tools because they are available to me. but i dont think i would have come up with such a effective method that you guys did. kudos to you guys.

oh almost forgot... snap on tools are the shizz! they dont give like cheaper tools, which round off bolts/nuts, and just leaves your frustrated because you now have to fix something stupid.

Bah... last ****ing cam gear was being a bitch and I walked the inside of the bolt head. Now I'm going to have to have a friend weld the hex head in there and just buy a new bolt. Whatever... at least that's easier.

PS quality tools help.


I ran into the same damn problem.. got the ones of cyl #2, #4 just fine.... the intake came sprocet one cyls number 1 and 3 we used a nice breaker bar and that was tough to get off... And now to the exhaust sprocket.... Well that FLipin thing would not break loose with the impact, we tryed the bar and broke 2 sockets and striped the bolt out :furious:

on the last damn Sprocket!! AHHH, Well then we tryed to take the Cyl 1,4 head off and we the for some reason the 1st bolt would not break loose :furious: all the others did even the 1000ft lb impact gun would not break it
So i guess i must bring the hole damn Motor to a machine shop :(

All in all these things are hard to take off!! and yes Quality tools are nice... Craftsman SUCks BALLS.. broke 2 of there hex sockets. and the one from napa made it though the battle with no problem

You guys need to get some real impact guns and run them with real air pressure. 175psi works good but if you can use 200psi. Also impact guns take alot of cfm, a 3/8" hose isnt gonna cut it. Most people dont have enough air for any more then a 1/2" impact. Dont use adapters or extensions, you want the most ridget possible setup so you dont lose the sharp hammer blow of an impact. If that "1000ftlb" impact was really making 1000ftlbs there is no way you could hold the cam sprocket and if you did it would destroy ANY 10mm alen socket.

Head bolts or any long bolt for that matter are hard for impacts to remove, The bolt twists and absorbs much of the impacts blow, many times only a breaker bar will remove them.


Also someone mentioned welding a tool, DO NOT weld any tools, they are heat treated and will turn into mush after you weld them.

PS... what do you do when the inside of the bolt is rounded out? :( ****

I would drill the bolt. Drill it as close to the size of the bolt as you can, make sure you are centered and drill straight. You dont have to go deep, just past the head is fine. Once you drill it I would try an internal or external extractor and if that wont break it off then hammer and chisel it.

Hmm... looks like I'm gonna have to grab a pretty big bit then... these cam gear bolts are beefy. Oh of course... and a REAL drill.

i just had a hell of a time taking those gears off, i ended up having to weld directly to the bolts because they stripped out. it was a mess but atleast nothing was damaged besides those two bolts. there really isn't any sure fire way to do this.

Eric

i just had a hell of a time taking those gears off, i ended up having to weld directly to the bolts because they stripped out. it was a mess but atleast nothing was damaged besides those two bolts. there really isn't any sure fire way to do this.

Eric
Hey man... I'm in New Mil... you think you can weld onto my last bolt????????? I would freakin appreciate it..

yea and then fly out to AZ and do mine :p LoL haha yeah i`am stuck I need to find a local welder and get a good socket and trq bar

Yeah i doubt there is a perfect way to avoid this, beside removing the motor and breaking those bolts loose and re trq them, Cuz on left side of the motor those 2 bolts where not super tight, I had a Cyl on that side replaced so that head came off about 2,500 miles ago... then the other to where super tight, a breaker bar broke the metal cam sprocket bolt lose, but on the exhaust sprocket it was just to tight to get loose :(

PS... what do you do when the inside of the bolt is rounded out? :( ****

Drill it out, slow drill speed as the bolts are hard and drill it fast and the drill goes blunt and bolt work hardens, once you drill it enough the head falls off, the threaded part screws out with fingers.

They are tight due to the surface area of the flange.

One other way is while the belt is on still, put a spaner to hold the tensioner out to keep tension on the belt and slow heavy force helps, also used "ring /ring" spaner off the crank/flywheel bolt to the bell housing to hold the engine from turning.

I like the belt around one pully at a time idea!

Drill it out, slow drill speed as the bolts are hard and drill it fast and the drill goes blunt and bolt work hardens, once you drill it enough the head falls off, the threaded part screws out with fingers.

They are tight due to the surface area of the flange.
Will one of those DeWalt cordless drills work or do I need something high powered?

I never had any luck with rattle guns, even the bigggest snapon battery gun doesn't even look at it, you need some big bars and allen key arangement.

I never had any luck with rattle guns, even the bigggest snapon battery gun doesn't even look at it, you need some big bars and allen key arangement.

and when all else fails, a welder....

I think drilling the head off is easier, even with welding something to it, it's still tight!

i guess it all depends on your situation, i had it set up like crawford had shown and it would not slip at all, plus i used the turbo bracket to hold the crank in place, then i welded a hammer to it (yes i know its a** backwards), and i put a 3ft pipe on the end of that and it came right off. its funny cause i don't have any good drill bits so when i tryed drilling it i ended up giving up after breaking like four bits. plus welding is more fun :devil:

Eric

http://www.cobbtuning.com/pr-cam-wrench.html

We do not have a cam gear tool currently for the AVCS gears, but hopefully in the near to distant future. Having the correct tools really help the job go alot faster.

- J.

go to your local home depot and get one of these .. they work great for removing the rounded out cam bolts...

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.jhtml?catId=IrwinCat100511

Well hell!!! I got them off, but now Im having a hard time getting the intake cams to line up with the cam gears? Any ideas?

I tried this tonight. Got the two on the drivers side loose but one of the psg side is starting to strip out inside. I stopped before it got too bad (may still be salvageable. I am thinking of trying to source an 11mm allen and hammer it in there and try again. Do you think drilling would be easier/safer/better?

On a side note... I only read after I turned one cam pully about a 1/4 turn that you are not supposed to do this. Does this gurantee me that I will have bent valves?

2 post up .... it works

I tried this tonight. Got the two on the drivers side loose but one of the psg side is starting to strip out inside. I stopped before it got too bad (may still be salvageable. I am thinking of trying to source an 11mm allen and hammer it in there and try again. Do you think drilling would be easier/safer/better?

On a side note... I only read after I turned one cam pully about a 1/4 turn that you are not supposed to do this. Does this gurantee me that I will have bent valves?

the valves close by default and the spring holding them closed is pretty strong so unless you're putting a lot of force behind turning the cam gears chances are the valves arent opening. if the gears are still on the timing belt and its slippingi then watch out though...
if your allen key is stripping you might want to think about using a bolt out kit or even cutting a notch across the head and trying to use some sort of flat head screwdriver if you can find a way to put a lot of torque on it.

i had no trouble getting these off myself, i cant understand what all this 900 ft. lb. air gun talk is all about. i had a 2 foot breaker bar or so and put a bit of weight onto it and i was finished all 4 in just a few minutes. i got 3 of them to break loose just be leaving the timing belt on, but the last one skipped teeth when i tried so i stopped that quickly and pulled it off a different way.

Two of my three came off super easy. One started to strip and I haven't tried the fourth yet.

Sounds like I haven't bent any valves though... phew! ***wipes forehead***

i tried the timing belt and vise grip around the crank and cam idea. it sliped. then i had an idea why not clamp the belt tight around the cam gear with another vise grip. it worked flawlessly. i think this will work on the tightest cam gears. thats just my opinion. i would post picture but dont no how. sorry

I hate subaru cam gears...I personally have always wrapped the belt and used a big breaker bar as I rarely see an impact get the job done...lack of cfm if you ask me...

anyhow, sometimes they break, sometimes they strip...just luck of the draw ;)

I ended up griding down the cam bolt and pounding a socket over it. That worked but man, I thought I was hooped for a bit there. Easy outs did not work at all, they just snapped like twigs.

Seeing as I just had a timing belt change (less than 2k miles) and would like to try and reuse it, I'm going to admit defeat and break down and buy the cobb tool...

unless it is absolutely necessary to change the timing belt when I do a shortblock swap? It's a 2.0L-->2.5L swap wiht WRX heads.

-JT

you won't need the cam gear tool as you won't be removing your cam gears...unless you are doing cams...

Seeing as I just had a timing belt change (less than 2k miles) and would like to try and reuse it, I'm going to admit defeat and break down and buy the cobb tool...

unless it is absolutely necessary to change the timing belt when I do a shortblock swap? It's a 2.0L-->2.5L swap wiht WRX heads.

-JT


you won't need the cam gear tool as you won't be removing your cam gears...unless you are doing cams...

The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.

The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.

Yeah,I'm going to have to take off the heads, and the way I interpreted the service manual, the cam sprockets need to come off to gain access to the head bolts. bummer :( .

-JT

The way I read his post was he is swapping blocks so the cams WILL need to come out to remove the head bolts.

But the timing belt should be fine to reuse with 2k on it.

yup...missed that little bit on the 2.0->2.5

i pulled my engine apart last year and i had this problem with the cam bolts. whoever has a motor where the bolts come off easy is lucky. somebody must have fallen asleep at the assembly line then. i got 3 out of 4 off with much effort. the third i had to drill out cause it stripped. i went through like 10 drill bits and half a day later the head of the fourth finally came off. for the first three i used two flywheel bolt installed in the crank with a wrench the was long enough to jam against the back of the block (the material of the block that surrounds the flywheel). i left the timing belt on and took up all the clearance on the timing belt guides. then i used a 3 foot breaker bar (3/4" drive w/ a matco reducer) and a 1/2" drive 10mm socket w/ piece of 10mm allen key cut off short enough to go into the socket and the allen bolt. it worked but i wish i had the real allen driver at the time. i bought 4 new bolts just to be sure and the correct allen driver (matco 10mm allen driver) for reinstall.

It is time to replace the timing belt on my 2000 Outback wagon (110Kmi). I've had dealers quote $540 to $1200. Reading the chat, I get it's not easy. Have no knowledge with which to judge the estimates. Recommendations?

I hate subaru cam gears...I personally have always wrapped the belt and used a big breaker bar as I rarely see an impact get the job done...lack of cfm if you ask me...

anyhow, sometimes they break, sometimes they strip...just luck of the draw ;)

agreed, The last time I did my cam gears it wasn't that bad, but I was obviously more experienced the second-third time around.

big breaker bar, make sure to not turn on an angle to avoid stripping, loosen them all before taking the belt completely off.

It is time to replace the timing belt on my 2000 Outback wagon (110Kmi). I've had dealers quote $540 to $1200. Reading the chat, I get it's not easy. Have no knowledge with which to judge the estimates. Recommendations?


you dont have to take the cam gears off to change the timing belt, only to take apart the motor. the timing belt i imagine wouldnt be that hard while in the car. probably just time consuming because of the extent of things that have to be taken off. i did a new one with the new motor but it was on the bench so probably much easier.

You can't use the 1 1/8 wrench on an STI. I did it this way. I put two of the flywheel bolts in and used a wrench between them that was long enough to touch the engine stand mounts. That way the crank bolt doesn't tighten and you can use both hands to loosen the cam gear bolts. It also makes it a one person job instead of 2+ like others have needed. I also found out that the Snap-on 10mm 1/2" drive hex socket was very strong and would not break like craftsman and several other that I broke. It lists of $20 but its worth it because you break several $10 sockets and never get one bolt loose.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g93/ck02wrx/DSC01254.jpg

I fully endorse this method but I would suggest leaving the other pulleys/guides in place. With them in place the angle is such that more of the gear teath and timing belt are engaged making it less likey to slip.

not only that but I've done that and started to turn the crank over...bolt wasn't giving and motor was starting to spin ;)

ok i havent read the whole thread and someone might have already said it but this is the way that works for me. works well when your alone.

i had my pry bar in the flywheel from when i took the crank pulley off but i dont think its needed. unless you rig it up like ck02wrx did.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0164.jpg

first dont use a craftsman 10mm hex socket for removal.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0159.jpg

i use a 10mm allen and wrench together.

this was just a pic showing what i use to remove the bolts i took the timing belt off and used an old 1 as shown in the lower pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0163.jpg

2 pairs of vice grips and 1 old timing belt

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0172.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0169.jpg

carefully use the allen and wrench and it'll come right off w/out stripping or breaking anything.

edit, i also turn the crank and cams so if i do slip the belt (i havent yet) it doesnt turn the valves into the pistons

+1 for the Visegrip, old belt, and breaker bar method this thread saves lives!

Got all 4 off in 10min.

Yay!

I wish i found this thread 4 weeks ago. I still cant get my cam pulleys off. Now i cant get one of my cams out because both bolts holding down the cam bridge are stripped. Last night i tried using Craftsman Bolt-Outs and all that does is chews up the bolt head. Any ideas?

I wish i found this thread 4 weeks ago. I still cant get my cam pulleys off. Now i cant get one of my cams out because both bolts holding down the cam bridge are stripped. Last night i tried using Craftsman Bolt-Outs and all that does is chews up the bolt head. Any ideas?

Drill em out.

Drill em out.

Agreed, once its all chewed up all you can do is drill it out.

It totally sucks too.

Agreed, once its all chewed up all you can do is drill it out.

It totally sucks too.

Or, weld on a new nut onto the stripped one to bite onto. also a very last resort

First way is the easiest and the backup is last resort. First off I do these unfortunately about once every other week so here it goes. Without the crappy AVCS subaru tool or the break some coners of my plastic gear please wrench I just take my 2 foot chain wrench and a piece of timing belt that goes around the circumference of the gear, throw the chain wrench on it, twist the engine in the engine stand to lock the wrench against the lower engine stand support. Then I take my 1/2" 10mm snap-on socket and 24 inch breaker bar, now this step is IMPORTANT take the socket stick it in the head of the bolt and strike it multiple times with a large hammer (not mini-sledge but close). Take valve grinding compound and put it on the socket and ensure an interference fit in the bolt head(this has prevented a single strip out of these hatefull bolts which have measured usually about 380 ft lbs. breakaway torque!) and begin to loosen. If it doesn't come out the first time hit it again with the hammer. Also try hitting the socket and wrench while trying to break it lose and yes even at the dealership we still sometimes need three guys to break it lose. Usually this works, aso hitting it with the hammer and a lm5000 snap-on impact 90% pulls them lose! The key to success here no matter which method is the hammer and valve grinding compound. Now if you totally destroyed the bolt you can either torch it or I just MIG weld an old axle nut to it, hit it with a 32mm socket and impact and bam done. Never found the need to torch it since it'll kill the insides of the AVCS cams however it works for 2.0l engines w/o AVCS. I have multiple AVCS gears appart, they use plastic sprung wipers inside x3 to form the piston seals for the hydraulic mechanism to rotate the gear surface in the desired direction.

Hope this helps.

Matt G.
Subaru/ASE Certified Technician

**Borat** Very NIIZEEE!

Drilled mine out, saved a lot of time.

Nick

I used a set craftsman bolt extractors after snaping 4 sockets like toothpicks..

I spent all of two mins with the bolt extractors taking them out...

, now this step is IMPORTANT take the socket stick it in the head of the bolt and strike it multiple times with a large hammer (not mini-sledge but close). and begin to loosen. If it doesn't come out the first time hit it again with the hammer.Hope this helps.

Matt G.
Subaru/ASE Certified Technician


Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.

Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.



Seriously! This isn't a lug nut on a diesel truck! There's a cam back behind that bolt.

Guys, never hit the sprocket bolts with a hammer. You can easily damage the cylinder head and break the camshafts centering flanges.


If u didnt notice he is a subaru tech as am i and honestly u would have to hit it pretty hard with a big dead blow to do any damage to head/cam (but the plastic pulleys will shatter if u miss the bolt head lo)l. I do quite a few of these every month too and tried this on the first oone i ever hadc apart after not being able to break one loose with a very long breaker bar with pipe over it for more torque and 2 250lbs guys on breaker and 1 more holding motor. and afterf that didnt work i hit the head of the bolt with my hammer a couple times pretty hard and then tried again and broke it loose with no help.

oh and i have never damaged anything but shattering a plastic pulley before doing this so aimming is a good idea lol. with that said good luck everyone and if u r worried about doing this urself then seriously think about taking it to a dealership cause it sucks to have ur car outoforder because of something like this happening

The best that I have found, besides drilling, is to put a breaker bar on the crank. Then you can use a 1/2" wratchet to remove the 10mm bolts. If you pull up, the sockets are less likely to break.

Nick

Drilled mine out, saved a lot of time.

Nick
same here, also no worries about stressing and breaking other parts.

same here, also no worries about stressing and breaking other parts.

What did u drill with? If u're not perfectly in center, u might hit the cam or cam gear.

the top bolts have a hole in them so they are centered, but it's tough to get the bottom bolt started with a pilot hole right in the center.

I finally gave up and used an angle grinder and ground off 3 of the bolt heads... I ruined 3 of the cam gears but at least the camshaft and everything else wasn't damaged.

The best that I have found, besides drilling, is to put a breaker bar on the crank. Then you can use a 1/2" wratchet to remove the 10mm bolts. If you pull up, the sockets are less likely to break.

Nick

Please clarify. Put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Use 1/2" wracket to remove the 10mm cam gear bolts (using a 14mm hex head socket)?

And what do u mean by if u "pull up" the sockets are less likely to break?

My mechanic told me during cam gear removal he broke one of the gears and stripped a bolt. How much do these gears go for?

like 170 for acvs, 100 or so for non. IE Intake $$$$...exhaust $$....