Ok, that is the error i get when trying to install my AP for my 02-03, i've checked all connections everything is fine. What should i do to fix this error?? I shut everything off in my car b4 trying to reflash, radio/lights/closed door, i even used a flashlight to read the book while doing it!... I connected the 2 green plugs to each other, but i see two other plugs they give me with the unit... what do i do with those? I didnt see anything in the manual that said what to do with those other 2 connectors that came with the AP, what do i do with those??

ok, i just found out where to plug the blueish one in for 02 models .... it didnt tell me where to plug that into in the DAMN MANUAL I GOT THO!!!! THANKS COBB!!!

Shure it does on page 9 step 2 in my manual. :)

Well, now wut i just found out is, they sent me the AP for my02-03, but they sent me in that package the manual for the 04-05 STi and 06 WRX, and i guess they dont use that plug when doing their remapping, sooooo.... that's why it wasn't in the manual!!

Hook up jumper cables to your car and I bet it works.

Well not to rob threads but I was just trying to flash my ECU using the AP for the first time and got this message too. It appears my battery is low and below the <11.75v threshold.

In the AP manual it says that my ECU is most likey fried! :eek:

The battery was way low on water and I have filled it and charged it up.
I have a voltmeter and battery charger hooked up to the car now and it seems fine. But haven't done anything since the error message. I don't want to screw it up anymore if there is away to fix it.

When I connnect the AP now it goes to the screen like it has been married but I don't know what I should try, ie. unmarry it, reset ECU, etc.

Have been doing some searching but haven't found anything yet, so please help if you can!!

Did it go through the reflashing procedure or did it not let you because the voltage was too low? Does the car start? I don't think your ECU is fried.

ps- JUMPER CABLES!!!

I have a battery charger on it now. It was going through the reflash and gave me the "ERROR, car voltage low." When I plug in the AP now it goes to the screen like it has been married.

The car will not start. I took of the battery cable and tried to reset, have removed the white connector and disconnected the green wires and still nothing. Hooked everything back up like when I married it and it just goes into the screen like it has been married. I don't want to try any of the options yet an make it worse so I am hoping someone else has been there too. Don't want to make this any worse than it might be.

It's not looking good. Well sold my Utec for this and was hoping for to get a protune in a few weeks and gave better reults and drivability but it hasn't been a good start.

Well that's my luck. :(

well, now that you made sure the battery is good. I would try to reflash wutever map you were trying to flash on it first and see if it works. If the ECU is fried, wut more damage can u do?

Hope this helps....I had the same problem....the car would crank but it wouldnt catch. I got the same voltage message, and the manual said that the ECU was dead. I bought a new battery, and tried to flash it again, and it worked. Just be careful, but I think your ECU is still okay. As long as the AP tries to flash...your ECU is still existant...cuz the AP is talking to it...if that makes sense

your fine, just get a new battery, and start over

Alright guys thanks for the help I have it flashed now at stage 2 :devil: . Well after dinner I was able to get back out and try some things. I found someone on ClubWRX.net that had the same problem and I did what the other member did. Thought it would be a good idea to post it her and let everyone know in case someone does a search and comes across this thread.

So here is what I did:


1) Hooked my Forester up to my WRX with jumper cables and left the Forester running while flashing my WRX. But any running car would do ;)

2) Hooked back up the green connectors and white connector underneath the dash.

3) Decide to unmarry the AP and flash the stock base map back. If that worked then I would feel confident to flash the stage 2. It worked and my car was back to stock.

4) Unhooked the green connectors and removed the white plug. Started the car and ran for a few minutes.

5) Turned the car off. Follow the instructions to marry the AP to ECU. This time I did the flash the same but had my Forester running and jumper cables to my Rex.

Took about 10 minutes for the flash but all went well. It is now at Cobb Stage 2 :banana: . Feels much smoother than stock with the Cobb reflash and boost is hitting at 16.5 - 17.0 psi. Doesn't seem quite as fast as the Utec stage 2 but the car feels smoother throughout the powerband and the Utec was lagging in that department. In the next 500 miles maybe the ECU will learn more and the car will seem as fast as the Utec. :)

I am real happy with the AP and wouldn't hesitate to switch from the Utec again(But I would be more cautious :p ). Now time to get some PDX maps while waiting for the TB upgrade and then either get the Street Tuner software or a Protune.

Thanks again guys and anyone going to do the reflash, hook a running car up via jumper cables to your car while flashing for added insurance. Now time to get an Optima battery :D

i was so damn scared when i got my AP..... i had the jumper cables, another car to hook em too w/ hood open, and a battery charger on standby.... :lol:

i was so damn scared when i got my AP..... i had the jumper cables, another car to hook em too w/ hood open, and a battery charger on standby.... :lol:

Yeah after the getting it back to stock, I hopped out of my car when I actually got it to work the second time and just prayed for the ECU not to bre dead. But I also had a battery charger standing by too.

Sometimes I just look at things and they'll break :lol: but it turned out to be a good day!

i was so damn scared when i got my AP..... i had the jumper cables, another car to hook em too w/ hood open, and a battery charger on standby.... :lol:

haha so i was I. i bought a battery charger just for the AP, and i had the battery charger hooked up to the battery the whole time during the flashing just in case.

haha so i was I. i bought a battery charger just for the AP, and i had the battery charger hooked up to the battery the whole time during the flashing just in case.


i thought about having it hooked up, but knowing my luck some kind of surge would go through the car and blow up the AP. :rolleyes: :D

Good to hear it ended well.

You know your boost is too high, right?

stage 2 should hit 16.5 psi.... that sounds right to me.

stage 2 is 15.8 +/ 0.5 PSI, so the highest you should see is 16.3 PSI.

Good to hear it ended well.

You know your boost is too high, right?

Yeah, it peaked out once at 17.0 but seemed like a spike. Now I am seeing 16.0 - 16.5. If it starts to run up to 17.0 how do you control it from running that high? Is that what they refer to as "boost creep"?

I have a TurboXS high performance MBC that I bought from another member that I was going to eventually install but wasn't sure if I would really need it.

Didn't know if the MBC would be a useless mod like adding a BOV and actually make the stock system respond worse.

My only engine mods: Are the AP, Perrin panel filter and TBE (soon to add gutted Uppipe).

Any ideas if the MBC would be a good thing to add to help control boost levels with the AP?

I wouldnt add it at least not until you can have it tuned for.

Seems like your close enough for the ECU to compensate for your boost issue, I'd let the ECU learn for a few hundred miles and or a couple weeks. After that re-check your boost and report back.

Definetly leave the MBC out, otherwise you are basically impossible to help.

Will do thanks for the help.

I'll put the MBC up for sale or save for the Protune.