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Old 10-21-2001, 01:44 PM   #8
Farfrumwork
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 10202
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Louisville, CO
Vehicle:
'07 Spec B
'85 EJ25 Syncro Westy

Talking GOT 'M IN!!!

All right... got it done!
It took me quite a bit longer than I had anticipated - but it was due to my own stupidity. haha. Just remember - better yet mark - where the top hats are in relation to the strut. (they are not too cooperative when going back together)

Total time was about 6 hrs. but If I could do it again it would take probably 3-4 hrs. This all by my lonesome in my carport too, if I had a helper I'm sure it would more than cut the time in half. ( and shops want ot charge for 7-8 hrs ! what a load of crap, I hope their mechanics are faster than me especially with air tools... but I digress).

as far as the installl goes - go to the "Mods" section and read through the STi suspension install for the RS. it is basically the same thing.

here are some hints though...

1) the rear top-hat bolts include one that hides under the seatbelt mechanism. it is a real PITA. A very small racheting 12mm box wrench might help here.

2) Have some xtra tools around. I broke a 19mm 1/2" drive, deep socket on the rear. As well as a 3/8" drive rachet !!
ps. a 3/4" socket works great in place of the 19mm.

3) the rears go back in fairly easily - although it is somewhat of a pain gettin' the top 3 bolts lined up (an extra person here would have been great!). The fronts sat about 1" lower than the mount holes on the struts - you will not be able to compress them by hand to get them to reach. I used the stock jack and my Al breaker bar tube to push them up a bit to align the holes. (See picture at bottom - if I can post it )

4) The front struts top hats have a very tight fit for the socket required for the 12-1.50 metric stop nut the AGX's use (that's a mouthfull) I used some Syn. bike chain lube to get in there nice and easy like.

5) when you are compressing the stock springs to take them off - compress them further than you think you need to - then compress them some more.

6) The front assembly has a tapered, pyramid style washer - in case you don't follow the last hint and can't tell how it was originally - it goes in wide side down ( yes I had to do the first front assmbly completelyover again too. I probably did the equivelent of 8 wheels worth of work -hahahahha).


REVIEW:

totally kick ass!
It is a *bit* more jarring around town - not harsh, but you can feel iregularities more. At speed, 40mph+, it is just as, if not more, smooth than the stock suspension.
This thing will absolutely RAGE into corners now. it is very neutral and controlable.
I only drove around for a bit - including playing with a freind in a '01 OBS - we drove up Flagstaff Mnt road in Boulder (it is steep and narrow, and has a couple 1st gear - very tight- switchbacks) it was awesome. I had to wait a while for the obs to catch up .
This is with the 18mm rear bar and RE730 rubber. I know... not a fair fight for the obs


LOOKS:

It looks pretty much the same. I, unfortunately, didn't measure the rear height before hand (sorry) but I did measure the front. the front was unchanged 385mm -(from center wheel to wheel well)
the rear "looks" a bit lower - maybe 10mm or so. I can only get 1 1/2 finger under there. Now it measures 350mm, using the same methd as above.

Can anyone go out and measure theirs -front an back??? just as a reference.

( I am trying to put pictures up - wish me luck)


later,
Chad

aka. Farfrumgerman
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