> 'LCD inversion' for tips on how to get the dials out, which is what I finally did yesterday, to get the green film off.
I did find that if you cut acetone with an equal part of acetone, and use (a LOT of) Q-tips, the acetone is enough to bite the ink they use, but not so much to attack the plastic. I must have used 100 q-tips yesterday, just trying to keep things clean. It was a bit akward in places, like between the tach & speedo, because I don't like the idea of (and wouldn'd suggest) removing the needles, though the little plastic rings that hold the overlay down to the acrylic underneath the needles were popped out for a bit of maneuvering.
I still need to figure out a way to deal with the 'hot spots', and that really bugs me, but I've got some ideas, and the hard part is done.
Also, from what I can tell, the only thing printed on the back of the overlay, is the green film, the black diffuser (kind of a half-tone pattern), and a white diffuser, so you dont' have to be too ginger about film removal, which was one of my fears. All of the numbers, letters, the black background, etc. is all printed on the front of the overlay (the transparent plastic part).
A Caution: When dealing with acetone, be careful not to splash it on the face of the dial, or get too much on your fingers, and then handle the front of the dial, as I am afraid that might eat some of the paint from the front. Also, there is a 'hard-coat' on the back (covering like the battery, ABS, icons, etc) which seems to be fairly resistant to the acetone (even straight up), but I wouldn't wager on impervious to, so just be careful.
When I get a resolution to the diffusion issue, I will be sure to post pics, and possibly a bit of a writeup.