Using someone else's map is not a good idea. Altitude, gas, condition of car, constant parameters, abc, temperature, all effect the tune. ESPECIALLY since you are using an intake and bov.
Don't adjust the fuelling unless you have access to a wideband o2 and know what you are doing. Same goes for timing, unless you have accurate EGT and datalog with a laptop.
If you DO decide to stick with the UTEC read the UTEC manual lots of times, and also check out Mick's tuning guide, also www.wrxhackers.com
for more information.
The stage 2 basemap is OK to get started from, but running it all the time is not a good idea, it's VERY rich and wont make much more power for you than stock. It's also designed for 93 octane, you need to remove some timing if you are using 91 for example.
You need to datalog to see what the UTEC is doing, a good idea with the basemap to see if all is OK before you start spanking the car to see if it's faster with the UTEC
Then work in small steps from there tuning the boost map and abc if needed to reach the specified psi targets for your stage. Then if you wanna tweak the fuel maps you need a wideband o2, tweaking the timing means keeping an eye on knock and your EGT, again done with a laptop and logger option #1
In summary if you want to tune with the UTEC yourself you need lots of patience and understanding of what you are doing. It's not complicated as long as you take baby steps, have the proper tools at hand like wideband and laptop for logging and enjoy doing that kind of thing (and are somewhat technically inclined) and learning how the car reacts to adjustments.
If you dont want to do the above, then stick with AP (and Streettuner down the road if you wanna learn at a later date to tune) or ECUTEK.
Hope this helps.