You might also want to be aware of what doesn't come in the master gasket set. There is no, RH exhaust manifold to up-pipe, up-pipe to turbo gasket, nor is there a turbo to DP gasket.
The little o-ring around the top of the dip stick (around the yellow part that holds it firmly into the top of the dip stick tube.)
There are a few oil/water passage openings that have bolts sealing them and under the oil press. sender bung as well as others (perhaps for gauges not available on the usdm motors.) Some of those have the silver gaskets under them that are not there. the only reason I accessed those was for a more thorough cleaning on the first rebuild. HondaBond seals them well. The water neck for the oil cooler unit is another case. Metal gasket but no need to remove/replace. If you want, you can pour some oil into some of those top openings to help coat the internals a bit better/flush out any residual parts cleaner.
The banjo bolt on the top of the power steering pump. I unscrew that and unclamp both soft lines to the PSP reservoir so I can get those lines out of the way. But I've reused the gasket (it's like two copper crush gaskets but built into one unit. If yo've seen it, you'll know what I mean) a dozen times and it doesn't leak.
Tip: I actually replaced the foamy gaskets around the timing belt cover. Once you pull those off you might want to start soaking them in rubbing alcohol or do something to get the old gaskets off and get the plastic clean enough to let the new sticky foam to actually stick. I'd just leave the old ones on, and for iffy areas, add some permatex black or blue RTV. Something easier to peel off than hondabond.
After the first build where I washed the motor instide and out with parts cleaner/ brake cleaner/ rubbing alcohol etc... I used some of those upper oil plugs to fill the top channels with the first 5 quarts. (not all 5 through there, just got some in that way.) I figured that'd 1st off, help get oil on more parts for the initial startup (in case the assembly lube got too thin too quick, secondly, help wash down/dillute some of those solvents. Since they dissolve oil... Seemed like a bad thing to have hidden pockets of left over in the motor.
I also left the block on the motor stand for the first oil fill, then tipped the motor side to side to help coat everything, turning the crank with a 22mm socket.
That first 5 quarts were left in the motor for less than 5 minutes until the engine came up to temp. Then changed right away to dump all that solvent and assy lube and to clean the magnetic drain plug.
I use a tap on the starter wire (yellow wire in loom by firewall), which I can then run to the battery to turn the motor over the first few revolutions. The key can be all the way off so there is no need to disconnect the fuel pump or unplug the coil packs, and you can watch/listen to make sure nothing goes "PING!" and shoots across the garage. Oh, make sure the car is out of gear.