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Old 05-16-2006, 09:24 AM   #12
2phless
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 69343
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: 'tween Lewisville&Clemmons NC
Vehicle:
2000 nothing good
slow

Default My engine removal procedure.

I figure after doing this a few times this year I should post the removal process I've come up with. This isn't the only method, this is just how I do it, without assistance, in a small garage. Keep in mind that I have a lot of aftermarket parts/missing stock parts, and I've rewired / replumbed a few things to make this easier. I'll try to take into account anything Iremeber from having all the extra suabru stuff under there.

1: As always, remove the negative battery terminal.
2: A decent digital camera is your friend.
3: Ziplock bags with the sliders (a few sizes, sandwich to 1 gallon freezer bags) and one of those permanent markers that is retractable. Both of those products work well with greasy fingers and keeping those parts identified is key to an easy reassembly if you don't have them memorized.

Starting under the car:
Remove the two 14mm nuts from the mid-tranny mount.
Remove the undertray.
Remover the two 14mm nuts and washers from the engine mounts. 1 per side.
You might need to pull your lower Turbo to DP nut ( I get mine from the top later) and the upper DP to tranny bolt if your DP has that.
Dump the oil and coolant.
Pull the lower coolant line off the block.
Pull the passenger front tire, pull the O2 sensor cover, pull the O2 sensor (unplug it first). Replace the tire.

Back over the engine compartment.
Pull the TMIC or any FMIC tubing that is in the way. (you'll need very little side to side clearance.)
Pull the top coolant fill reservoir.

Pull the 5 Turbo to DP bolts/nuts.
Remove the pully cover and remove the AC/ PS belts.

Remove whatever intake setup you have. I figure a stock airbox could stay, just pulling the MAF tube. But I don't remember much about it.
Pull the power steering reservoir and lines leaving the soft lines on the jug. Set the reservoir someplace clean.
Disconnect the banjo from the pump, and the bracket from under the coolant reservoir. Tie those lines to the side. Plug for drips as needed. They should now be connected only to the steering rack.

Remove the top radiator line from the motor.
Remove the radiator and overflow tank.
Remove wires from alternator and AC pump. Tie aside.

Pull whatever fuel lines from the motor. If you care, relieve the fuel pressure first. I find it relieves itself just fine... so close your eyes. I marked them first with colored electrical tape for ease of re-assy. There is the delivery, return and purge vent lines associated with the plumbing coming off the driver's side strut tower. I don't remember all the details about the stock fuel lines.

Pull off the AC pump, leaving the lines intact. Remove the 10mm nut from the AC line bracket at the firewall for more play. Cover your battery/fender with a rag and carefully twist the AC pump under its own lines/ over the oil fill tube and set it on the battery. Tie aside. Later, if the car will sit a while, I set a jack stand in the empty engine compartment and set/tie the AC unit back into a more natural position so as not to stress the rubber lines.

Unplug the wiring harnesses from both sides of the motor. 2 per side.
Remove the heater core lines from the back of the motor.


Tranny:
(You might need to get a stock DP out of the way. Mine isn't.)
14mm bolts/nuts all the way around.
Start on the driver's side with the lowest stud. Remove that nut and work up to the starter.
You can leave the starter plugged in and just drop it, nose first, back behind the the steering shaft.
Continue across and down the other side pulling all the bolts/nuts.
Pull the 14mm bolt out of the top tranny brace dog-bone thing.

From the driver's side, Remove the little clutch lever return spring.
Pull the 10mm allen socket from the sdie of the tranny just below that.
Use a 6mm bolt (usually has an 8mm head) and thread that into the pin that is just inside that opening. Just turn it in a few threads and pull the pin out. The clutch fork is now free. It won't come out, it just needs to have play so as you slide the motor off, it won't hang.

Now the motor is free IIRC.

Putting the front tires on ramps is all the height I need.

Pulling:

On the engine hoist, I use a load leveler and bolt its chains to 4 points around the intake manifold, evenly as possible. Use 12mm bolts that run into the side of the intake. Use aftermarket grade 8 bolts and grade 8 washers, snug but not tight. You want the chain to be able to adjust under the weight.

Example bolt locations.
Passenger front: Turbo inlet tube mount.
Passenger rear: In front of the turbo where that power steering line bracket was mounted.
Drivers side, from the side of the intake there is a bolt location at the top of each runner. 1 front, 1 rear.

There are a ton of spots on the block, but you'll need to pull more of the accesories off the get at most of them. Plus the higher mounting points make tipping the motor easier (to me.)

I put a 4x4x4 wood block on a floor jack to support the tranny.

Lift the motor and tranny, little at a time each, until the two engine mount bolts are clear.

I use a little prybar to work the motor apart from the tranny. Remember to pull the clutch fork up until it is clear. It has play, just don't force anything and bend the fork or the throwout bearing.

Once it's fairly loose, I'll stand under the boom, pushing back on the cherry-picker with the heel of my boot while controlling the weight and angle of the motor until it is free. The key is not letting the motor hit the AC radiator.. thing... (what is that called anyway... I'm brain-farting)

Double check to make sure nothing is still hooked up and lift the motor free.

Lower onto some jack stands (I use 4, two for the motor mounts, 1 on each exhaust manifold) to stabilize the motor.

Pull the clutch/flywheel so you can bolt the engine stand bracket to the block. Pull the rear accessplate if you'll need them off (I've just used the fronts to access all 4 wrist pins). An impact screwdriver (the type where you hit the handle with a hammer to free stubborn screws) gets those the best.

The rest writes itself. Rebuild the motor. Reverse to reinstall. Having the subaru manual is key for all the torque specs. I'll proof-read later. Gotta go drive the car now
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