Modaddict, let me clarify a few things, I'll refer back to original points-
#2- the oem oil hole is drilled straight across the journal. This means the oil must make a 90 degree turn in order to enter the oil hole. As you can see in my pic with the rod in the hole. I have angled the entry hole so the oil only needs to make a 50? degree turn to enter the crank. This along with some neat champhering should greatly help pick up of oil at high rpms.
#3- The oem oil hole has a lead in at both sides of the oil hole. In my modified example you can see there is a lead-in taper so the oil get "scooped" up. The subaru crank has this standard (although much smaller), but it also has it on the other side of the hole so it sort of defeats the purpose. So the oem crank has a lead-in and a lead-out shape. Not a good design for good oil pickup.
#4. This can be difficult to explain.The standand oil hole is drilled so it meets the cross drilling at the centre of the main journal. What I have done is drilled the hole at an angle so it no longer passes through the centre of the main journal. The new hole is at an angle and it meets the original passage at about where the crank web is between the two journals. Look at it this way. Originally the oil had to make a 90 degree turn to enter the crank, then at the middle of the main journal make another 90degree turn to follow the passage to the rod journal. My design is a hole directly from the main journal surface to the original passage half way to the rod journal. This means the oil has a much easier path. The new hole is off to the side from center, this is a proven design as used on high perf chev cranks. I hope that explains it.
#8 the pin weight is not an issue. It it central to the crank so it wont affect balance. It really is just a steel rod 5.5mm diameter and 60mm long. Its only there to block the original cross drilling hole.