OK Pat challenge taken.
Your 168hp. What did you dyno stock? Can you answer that simple question? Because you will note that what I said WAS significant. We need to see gains over baseline pulls. All your numbers indicate are a high-reading dyno. Are you implying that you have a stock 168whp? Are these numbers corrected by the dyno to read what the theoretical brake hosepower figures are (which is what I am going to assume) or are they wheel?
My simple math was designed to prove a point that whatever number the dyno spits out at the end of the day only matters in relation to the number it spat out at the begining of the day. Savvy? Dynomometers are not inherently precise machines, they can be altered and are highly suspeceptible to operator error. You do not set up a dyno the same way for an STi than for an RS etc.
We are talking Subarus here, not Camaros or Vettes, different animal altogether. Please don't pull out that BS red-herring of well my LS1 got 50hp with just headers. Great for you and your LS1, we are talking 2.5 NA subarus here. This point shall be disregarded. I should have said a "modern fuel injected NA Subaru" or Just 2.5RS. My bad.
Your statment about making 14whp peak with exhaust and header and 18whp at redline does not make sense. Are you saying the entire graph shifted up and to the right? You made more power everywhere? Also, I bet the addition of tuning is what made the 10hp, not the intake but that is neither here nor there. So you made 24 peak whp with intake, header exhuast and Tuning. That sounds about right. Where is your argument? You made a bit more than I postulated speaking in GENERAL terms.
Again you miss the point and have actually made my point: You made 24whp with I/H/E and tuning. You claim 168whp (which I will assume is your end number) which means your stock baseline is 144hp.
So lets say that your dyno is actually trying to calculate bhp. that would mean that 144/168=~87 which is a 13% drivetrain loss which puts us at about 125whp which is just about right, and it falls comfortably into a 5% margin of error for a not so precise machine since you can't really know until you take the motor out and put it on an engine dyno. Which none of us has.
Math owns you.
As for my own experiences with this motor. They are my own and I don't feel the need to tell you all about it until you can really tell me how I am SO completely wrong.
I have an RS, I built it to a certain level of modification beyond bolt-ons. I can look at my begining basline and my end point and see the difference that is the key.