Figured I might as well keep an ongoing documentation of my little winter project. I just picked up an EJ207 that was hydrolocked and have begun tearing it down to see what the damage is. I have done a ton of work on Subies, but never actually torn down an engine so I'm taking things slow and taking lots of photos, for my own benefit and for others who may be in a similar situation.
I'm still unsure whether I want to stick with the 2.0 or go to a 2.5, but I'm honestly leaning toward an EJ257 with forged pistons to go with the EJ207 heads. I am really impressed with the GT30r, and feel its a great match for a daily driven 2.5L, but a bit much for the 2.0L. The debate goes on and on over which is the better platform, but personally I just think more displacement will be better for my needs. Its worth mentining that I will also be using an Aquamist 2D/DDS3 water injection kit with this setup, and most likely tuning with an Ecutek/UTEC combo.
Anyway, on with the photos...
Before starting, I either got the following items, or I should have gotten the following items:
-A divider tray to label and store bolts that may not be going back onto the engine for a while.
-A large flat pan, which fits under the entire engine stand. My oil pan will only fit on one side or the other, so catching drips has been an issue. The engine will drip... forever.
-10mm allen socket to remove cam sprocket bolts, they require a good bit of leverage so the allen socket is the ideal way to go.
-12mm, 12 point socket to remove the block bolts.
-14mm, 12 point socket to remove head studs.
-Long prybar to hold crank in place, and for general all purpose.
-1 1/8" wrench to hold cams while removing cam gear bolts
-14mm allen socket to remove access covers to get to wrist pins (or a 14mm bolt with 2 nuts locked onto each other, discussed below)
-I will continue to add to this as I realize what else I wish I had.
Full Photo Gallery (Updated 10/31/06): http://www.bryantroll.com/other/ej207/
Saturday, Oct. 28th: Went to pick up motor, and then went to pick up engine stand. Contrary to popular belief, you CAN pick up a Subaru longblock with 2 people. I wouldnt want to carry it very far, but to lift it out of a van and then lift it up to an engine stand was really no problem.
Sunday Oct. 29th: Took off clutch and flywheel. Picked up bolts to put the engine on the stand and got that in place. The alternator and AC condensor had already been pulled, so I removed the power steering pump. Then I removed intake manifold, risers, and fuel rails all in one piece. Removed wiring harness that was underneath.
Monday, Oct. 30th: Pulled off coolant crossover pipe and coolant and oil lines running across the top of the motor. The exhaust manifold had already been removed, so I pulled off the engine mounts, and then took off the oil pan. The oil fill tube is bolted onto the top of the motor with one bolt, and then held in to the oil pan by two o-rings and took a bit of force to wiggle out, but it did pop out. I used a flathead screwdriver and tapped it under the lip of the oil pan, and worked my way around until it was free. Took the baffle and oil pickup off to reveal the crank, rods, etc. Actually also pulled off one of the valve covers to check it out inside, but then put it back on to save for later.
Tuesday, Oct. 31st: Used a breaker bar to take off the crank pulley bolt (22mm). See photos to see how I held the flywheel side of the crank in place. I removed the timing belt cover and removed two of the camshaft sprockets before calling it a night.