the idea behind a knock sensor is that it is to be used as a backup for extreme circumstances, like bad gas, extremely hot weather, etc. You're not supposed to trigger knock and ignition retard while driving around town on a regular day. If you are, then your tuning is bad, plain and simple. No factory ECU relies on the knock sensor 24/7 either. Truth is, most knock sensors are prone to false readings, especially at high rpms, which is why TEC-II users disable it above a certain rpms, particularly if you're running a built engine with noisy forged pistons, lifters, etc.
If you tune by ear, and back the timing off 1 or 2 degrees from when you begin to hear knock, you give yourself a built-in safety margin for a hot day or a tank of bad gas. Tuning with just the knock sensor alone is dangerous, just like tuning without an EGT gauge. This applies to any system, whether TEC-II or HalTech, and that's why relying on a J&S knock sensing unit is at best a hack to get a poorly tuned engine running, and at worst it causes a person to believe that his engine is running well when in fact all it takes is one run of bad luck to blow his motor.
All the technology in the world can't save you if you aren't willing to use it the way it is intended to be used.
[This message has been edited by efoo (edited April 10, 2001).]