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Old 03-21-2012, 08:03 PM   #24
56k
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 309206
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto
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Back again, with results!

So here is the passenger door, with the door card, vapour barrier and stock speaker removed:


So the first thing that I did (to get it out of the way), was to push speaker wire from the door, through the 90 degree boots (see picture below for reference) and into the cabin. This seemed much easier the second time for some reason. Anyways, I used waterproof grease (by Phil Wood, made originally for wheel bearings) but wire-pulling lube would probably work well too. All I had to do was carefully cut a slit in the wire sheath (same as pictured earlier), grease the wire and push it through!



Here are pictures that I promised earlier to remove the door sill/kick plate and foot-well trim:



I then applyed RAAMmat BXT to dampen the outer door panel. I use more than is needed (75% surface area) plus a second layer (about 12"x8") directly behind the driver. As .17HMR had asked about the CLD Tiles that are showcased on sounddeadenershowdown.com, although I really enjoyed the explanations on the site as well as the gauge of aluminum used on the tiles, I really wanted peel and stick closed-cell foam (CCF). Since shipping to Canada is expensive I went for the RAAMaudio to get these items together.
Regardless, I achieved my goal of damping the door panels to reduce resonance:



After covering the outer door skin, I focused on trying my best to seal the door cavity and also stiffen the structure. For this I went to the local sheet metal supply (called Metal Supermarkets in Toronto) and bought a 48"x36" sheet of aluminum at 0.040" thick. This was rigid and yet flexible enough to bend and cut by hand (metal sheers of course). Here is the first piece that I cut:


It was held in place with Tuck Tape or the like, this stuff has a nice adhesive.. I also used it to patch some other holes in the sheet metal. Not really sure what use these other holes had..?
Here is the second piece cut and bent to conform around the cup holder in the door card:



Again, I opted for tape to hold the aluminum instead of using sheet metal screws.. self-tapping screws would have been really nice, but I didn't want to deal with exposed steel inside the door. With the magic of television, here is the CLD applied!


Notice that I covered over the speaker hole, there is a method to my madness (at times):
Thanks to Patrick (phenryiv1) for the idea

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Last edited by 56k; 03-21-2012 at 08:43 PM.
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